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Noddie's K11
- Thread starter Noddie
- Start date
OP
OP
emissions mate, dont want to have to mess about come MOT time. when i make the ss system il fit a propper race cat where the second one is now.
I started sorting out the wiring for the WB controler today, at some point this W/E i hope to get the standalone running on the new timing set-up and the wideband working... hopefully!
I started sorting out the wiring for the WB controler today, at some point this W/E i hope to get the standalone running on the new timing set-up and the wideband working... hopefully!
frank
Club Member
OP
OP
cheers frank, im having a great time doing it all!
the whole project is to learn how to do all this stuff, hense why im going as much as possible myself.
stage one: learn to map standard engine, get all elec stuff set-up propperly.
stage two: bolt on turbo at low boost (6psi ish) and map that.
stage three: build up forged engine (got most of the bits needed, still need to get some con-rods made up) then up the boost (pos bigger turbo) to about a bar and map that.
the whole project is to learn how to do all this stuff, hense why im going as much as possible myself.
stage one: learn to map standard engine, get all elec stuff set-up propperly.
stage two: bolt on turbo at low boost (6psi ish) and map that.
stage three: build up forged engine (got most of the bits needed, still need to get some con-rods made up) then up the boost (pos bigger turbo) to about a bar and map that.
OP
OP
Today (in the rain!) i fitted the crank pos wheel and sensor, with some tweeking due to clearance issues (anyone doing the same should consider the small amount of space between the crank pully and the chassy leg). After setting the sensor air gap to around 1mm i tested the set-up to 6500rpm and it ran fine. so hopefully now its just a case of plugging in the loom and changing a couple of settings, then the car should then fire into life (Y)
OP
OP
Yeah, that sounds about right! but the 'trigger' on the wheel is supposed to be the missing tooth! bleedin 'universal' stuff!
Lol, yeah, but the rods are like little tooth picks compared to the aftermarket ones! the thing is, it seems that noone really knows the limits of the engine componants separately.
Iv just had a thought! if the ecu was reading the dips rather than the teeth, then it would just see 35 odd dips (one being a bit longer). so two things i could try as far as im concerned, switch the signal wires rounds?? or maybe it has somthing todo with rising and falling edge business.
Lol, yeah, but the rods are like little tooth picks compared to the aftermarket ones! the thing is, it seems that noone really knows the limits of the engine componants separately.
Iv just had a thought! if the ecu was reading the dips rather than the teeth, then it would just see 35 odd dips (one being a bit longer). so two things i could try as far as im concerned, switch the signal wires rounds?? or maybe it has somthing todo with rising and falling edge business.
OP
OP
just got this from someone in OZ:
Hi, the amount of teeth is the problem as the unit is set to 2 teeth per revolution and now you have more and also it has a missing tooth. The Hawk does not do missing tooth signals so you need to cut excess teeth off to make it only see 2 teeth per revolution on opposing sides at between 60-70deg before TDC (set to 78deg at moment in ecu) and set the ecu to suit and it should start. If you give me your area I can put you on to a Wolf dealer in the UK which should be able to help you with the Hawk as it was made by Wolf.
Regards, Errol.
I'm guessing that it needs two triggers per rev so that it can also be run off of a cam sensor... in which case, i could possibly cover all holes apart from the small on in the dizzy and use that timing signal? would be easier than having the crank sensor there. the only thing is, im not sure of the 'Trigger before TDC' degrees of the dizzy sensor. I LOVE ALL THIS
Hi, the amount of teeth is the problem as the unit is set to 2 teeth per revolution and now you have more and also it has a missing tooth. The Hawk does not do missing tooth signals so you need to cut excess teeth off to make it only see 2 teeth per revolution on opposing sides at between 60-70deg before TDC (set to 78deg at moment in ecu) and set the ecu to suit and it should start. If you give me your area I can put you on to a Wolf dealer in the UK which should be able to help you with the Hawk as it was made by Wolf.
Regards, Errol.
I'm guessing that it needs two triggers per rev so that it can also be run off of a cam sensor... in which case, i could possibly cover all holes apart from the small on in the dizzy and use that timing signal? would be easier than having the crank sensor there. the only thing is, im not sure of the 'Trigger before TDC' degrees of the dizzy sensor. I LOVE ALL THIS
OP
OP
oh yeah lol, its late and its all spinning round in my head! the cam spins at half the speed of the crank eh. lol, sometimes i feel out of my depth, but you dont lean to swim in the kiddie's pool eh?
You are prob right... il whip it off tom and grind off those teeth, not sure why i have to make the triggers at 60-70deg BTDC though...
You are prob right... il whip it off tom and grind off those teeth, not sure why i have to make the triggers at 60-70deg BTDC though...
OP
OP
Good News: SHE RUNS!!!
Bad News: I managed to leave the wrong two teeth (did it late last night after a few beers:doh so i have ordered another trigger wheel (£20) and il put another crank pully together using a spare pully.
Atleast now i know exactly what i need to do now, no more guess work and also, i can do a better job of welding the wheel onto the pully(Y)
So, to everyone who has helped me get this far THANK YOU! i really dont think i could have got this to work without the help of you guys on here!
Soon the real fun will start!!!
Bad News: I managed to leave the wrong two teeth (did it late last night after a few beers:doh
so i have ordered another trigger wheel (£20) and il put another crank pully together using a spare pully. Atleast now i know exactly what i need to do now, no more guess work
and also, i can do a better job of welding the wheel onto the pully(Y)So, to everyone who has helped me get this far THANK YOU! i really dont think i could have got this to work without the help of you guys on here!
Soon the real fun will start!!!
OP
OP
Lol! it would take me a month!
Did you get any softwear/ digital docs with it? if you dont mind id love to have a look at them.
OP
OP
errr, not really. still a fair few bits to get before i can bolt the turbo on. Im not gonna rush it, im having too much fun!
micras69
Deactivated Account
na bugga that man i'll just buy a place with a garage (dig a pit in there) or rent a lock up ....i'll see what its like when i come down and then work on roxy as she wears the pants in this relationship
so... how far away from the turbo, were have you/plan to place the wideband sensor on the down pipe? (if you can read that bit of mubo jumbo)
....i'll see what its like when i come down and then work on roxy as she wears the pants in this relationship so... how far away from the turbo, were have you/plan to place the wideband sensor on the down pipe? (if you can read that bit of mubo jumbo)
OP
OP
OP
OP
nah, as long as its pre cat and after the turbo it should be fine(Y)
Stani1029
Club Member
OP
OP
on mine there is outputs for a gauge (and also the computer style jack in the side) so should be able to run a non-techedge gauge(Y)
oh, no worries. just had a look on their site, its got a fair bitta stuff on there. you should check it out, you might decide you can install it yourself, there is detailed wiring diagrams and setup information...sorry never got anything like that with it
p.s, its a hell of a bitta kit you'v got there(Y)! one day il fork out for a new ecu
OP
OP
Lol, i could be tempted at the right price haha
Anyway,
got the new trigger wheel today (no thanks for bloody royal mail)
so got to butchering it and putting it on the crank pully. I have also started making another (more sturdy) sensor bracket as the last one put the sensor right over the timing 'spike' so i couldnt bleedin check it.
here is a pic...
and as you can see my welding is improving
Anyway,
got the new trigger wheel today (no thanks for bloody royal mail
) so got to butchering it and putting it on the crank pully. I have also started making another (more sturdy) sensor bracket as the last one put the sensor right over the timing 'spike' so i couldnt bleedin check it.
here is a pic...
and as you can see my welding is improving
