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"Maxi Micra" project....by EBBdude.
- Thread starter EBBdude
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i think the pictures were just out for a while as my mate "adjusted " his server for an hour.
Thanks for enjoyable feedback everybody
My laughter in 2nd attempt R-REG_SR was a result of my surprise of how fast this little Micra was able to thread itself around the course with such ease and just crushing some of the other competitors mega-buck cars easily.
Stani , i have a rather cool film project of the Micra doing something sleek in a parking house over here.
The video will be posted when done(Y)
Thanks for enjoyable feedback everybody
My laughter in 2nd attempt R-REG_SR was a result of my surprise of how fast this little Micra was able to thread itself around the course with such ease and just crushing some of the other competitors mega-buck cars easily.
Stani , i have a rather cool film project of the Micra doing something sleek in a parking house over here.
The video will be posted when done(Y)
The project will jump back and forth on several aereas of interest and now for some more engine stuff :
On the _Micro Micra project and other Micras i have played with i have used a spacer between the inlet plenum and the throttle body.
It serves as a flow enhancer and increased inlet plenum volume hat helps out a bit and on this project it will have several other functions as well.
On the MAxi Micra i will make on in aluminium just for the fun of it and here is how i do that:
First i find some ALu-junk pieces from a container of the local workshop and put it in a wice and mark up the lower part of the spacer
I just use a gasket as a guide and a marker pen onto the piece of metal
Cut of the piece that I need with my mill
Then ill go ahead to mill out the piece as needed:
Do it manually without any complication even if my mill is a cnc version.
Next step is to drill the hole-pattern of the mounting plate against the inlet plenum
Now the lower part of the spacer is finished with its corresponding holes drilled :
Now for the upper part of the spacer , where the throttle body is fixed onto .
That is done in the same manner.
This part will have a round hole for the throttle blade aera and then I measure the dia of how big it has to be.
I am going to use both the oem 1,3 dia body and the larger Almera ga16 later so i choose the later`s dia when i make this plate.
To centre the workpiece I use this simple indicator
Accurate within a couple of hundres of a millimiter , good enough for an amateur like me.
As i mentioned my mill has cnc capacities so i just pop in a circle-mill program that give me the diameter i want it to mill
This can of course also be done in a lathe or a mill with a roundtable if you like.
There we have it , our finished hole.
Then I mill a groove for the idle-regulator to work through under the throttle-body.
I have used also here the gasket as a quick reference.
Here we are , the end product
More of the spacer build to come soon…
On the _Micro Micra project and other Micras i have played with i have used a spacer between the inlet plenum and the throttle body.
It serves as a flow enhancer and increased inlet plenum volume hat helps out a bit and on this project it will have several other functions as well.
On the MAxi Micra i will make on in aluminium just for the fun of it and here is how i do that:
First i find some ALu-junk pieces from a container of the local workshop and put it in a wice and mark up the lower part of the spacer
I just use a gasket as a guide and a marker pen onto the piece of metal
Cut of the piece that I need with my mill
Then ill go ahead to mill out the piece as needed:
Do it manually without any complication even if my mill is a cnc version.
Next step is to drill the hole-pattern of the mounting plate against the inlet plenum
Now the lower part of the spacer is finished with its corresponding holes drilled :
Now for the upper part of the spacer , where the throttle body is fixed onto .
That is done in the same manner.
This part will have a round hole for the throttle blade aera and then I measure the dia of how big it has to be.
I am going to use both the oem 1,3 dia body and the larger Almera ga16 later so i choose the later`s dia when i make this plate.
To centre the workpiece I use this simple indicator
Accurate within a couple of hundres of a millimiter , good enough for an amateur like me.
As i mentioned my mill has cnc capacities so i just pop in a circle-mill program that give me the diameter i want it to mill
This can of course also be done in a lathe or a mill with a roundtable if you like.
There we have it , our finished hole.
Then I mill a groove for the idle-regulator to work through under the throttle-body.
I have used also here the gasket as a quick reference.
Here we are , the end product
More of the spacer build to come soon…
Then i have worked some more on my spacer :
Found a small tube aluminum piece that i will use as the spacers center part.
Cutting it to desired length in my lathe :
The height is a bit different than the edition used in the Micro Micra project.
A little control to se that others details will fit
The spacer will fulfill several needs and it shall also be the place to put the N20 nozzle(s).
Since it will have several purposes I need to tur in the lathe another small thingy , like this
After that will Tig-weld it onto the centre section
Like this:
Drilling a hole into it
And setting some 1/8 “ NPT threads in it:
Drilling the hole where i want the nozzle for the N2o system
Setting it with some NPT threads :
And this is how it looks when the N20 Nozzle is seated in the spacer
Time to Tig-weld the 3 parts of the spacer together and before I can do that I have to preheat the parts for a good weld and I just use on of these cooking thingys:
The Tig is running and zapp it goes along
Almost done , on one side at least
Spacer finished welded and doesn’t look to bad ?
As i preheated the parts the spacer came out with no warpage at all.
Here you can see the N20 nozzles position and the future Alcohol injection`s nozzle placement.
The spacer goes in between the inlet and the throttle body as here
Voila , a diy spacer made out of waste material and proud to say ; recycled into something useful.
Next on the project is some testing on the Dynapack of 3 new modifications,,,,
Found a small tube aluminum piece that i will use as the spacers center part.
Cutting it to desired length in my lathe :
The height is a bit different than the edition used in the Micro Micra project.
A little control to se that others details will fit
The spacer will fulfill several needs and it shall also be the place to put the N20 nozzle(s).
Since it will have several purposes I need to tur in the lathe another small thingy , like this
After that will Tig-weld it onto the centre section
Like this:
Drilling a hole into it
And setting some 1/8 “ NPT threads in it:
Drilling the hole where i want the nozzle for the N2o system
Setting it with some NPT threads :
And this is how it looks when the N20 Nozzle is seated in the spacer
Time to Tig-weld the 3 parts of the spacer together and before I can do that I have to preheat the parts for a good weld and I just use on of these cooking thingys:
The Tig is running and zapp it goes along
Almost done , on one side at least
Spacer finished welded and doesn’t look to bad ?
As i preheated the parts the spacer came out with no warpage at all.
Here you can see the N20 nozzles position and the future Alcohol injection`s nozzle placement.
The spacer goes in between the inlet and the throttle body as here
Voila , a diy spacer made out of waste material and proud to say ; recycled into something useful.
Next on the project is some testing on the Dynapack of 3 new modifications,,,,
sleeper_ss
Ex. Club Member
Looking forward to these results & videos..
Be funny to take the former keeper for a spin in their old car :laugh:
Be funny to take the former keeper for a spin in their old car :laugh:
Thanks for looking.
Just trying the make the best out of the little i got.
This might look impressive but is actually quite straight forward machining and mechanics.
Have always enjoyed making my own parts and trying out new tecniques on all forms off aereas as a enthusiast with cars.
The N20 nozzle is placed in the spacer just because the oem inlet`s lack of possibillitie to distribute in a good way.
DI ( direct port ) N20 system will be way to complicated to sort out in a easy manner in this project.
The N20 setup on this project will be as straight forward as possible to show how it is done and the results of it. Will show more in the future.
Just trying the make the best out of the little i got.
This might look impressive but is actually quite straight forward machining and mechanics.
Have always enjoyed making my own parts and trying out new tecniques on all forms off aereas as a enthusiast with cars.
The N20 nozzle is placed in the spacer just because the oem inlet`s lack of possibillitie to distribute in a good way.
DI ( direct port ) N20 system will be way to complicated to sort out in a easy manner in this project.
The N20 setup on this project will be as straight forward as possible to show how it is done and the results of it. Will show more in the future.
Now it is time for some more digging into the engine room.
I wanted to try something from the Micro Micra project together with the newly made Aluminum spacer.
Many has asked me how much the ex-manifold , spacer and modified thriottle would add to the 1,3 liter engine as compared to what it did in the Micro Micras 1.0 liter engine.
So I thought I show you that now :
I have my spacer:
My home modified oem exhaust manifold :
And my modified throttle body (same in 1.0 and 1,3 engines )
These three I am going to bolt onto the totally stock and untouched 1,3 liter in the Maxi project and run the Dynapack.
Will not change anything else than bolting them up to the engine and see what happens.
For those of you who seen the start of the Maxi Micra project , here are the stock power / Nm numbers :
51,1 Hp & 79,4 Nm
So I leave you again with a little quiz :
WHAT WILL THE NUMBERS ON POWER & NM BE NOW THEN ?
I wanted to try something from the Micro Micra project together with the newly made Aluminum spacer.
Many has asked me how much the ex-manifold , spacer and modified thriottle would add to the 1,3 liter engine as compared to what it did in the Micro Micras 1.0 liter engine.
So I thought I show you that now :
I have my spacer:
My home modified oem exhaust manifold :
And my modified throttle body (same in 1.0 and 1,3 engines )
These three I am going to bolt onto the totally stock and untouched 1,3 liter in the Maxi project and run the Dynapack.
Will not change anything else than bolting them up to the engine and see what happens.
For those of you who seen the start of the Maxi Micra project , here are the stock power / Nm numbers :
51,1 Hp & 79,4 Nm
So I leave you again with a little quiz :
WHAT WILL THE NUMBERS ON POWER & NM BE NOW THEN ?
sleeper_ss
Ex. Club Member
Close to 10 my guess too..
Running the diy spacer , ex-manifold and modified throttle body on the Dynapack is finished.
Here is the numbers before these “ add-ons “ :
51, 1 Hp / 5370 rpm ( hub )
79,4 Nm / 2850 rpm ( at flywheel)
Here is what it was after :
60,9 Hp / 5737 rpm ( hub )
98.1 Nm / 3559 rpm ( at flywheel)
A net result of :
+9,8 Hp
+18,7 Nm
That is realy big bang for the low bucks , or not ?
All this going on when the o2 censor still governing the action like this regarding AFR
Remember , these are all just add ons or bolt on modifications easily done by anyone.
Nice to se that the OEM exhaust system , fuel pressure and the rest easily supports this power increase without any issues at all.
Here is a video of a 0-100 km/t run in this power level:
[video=youtube;i02E6E-qwAg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i02E6E-qwAg[/video]
Not to shabby or what ?
Here is the numbers before these “ add-ons “ :
51, 1 Hp / 5370 rpm ( hub )
79,4 Nm / 2850 rpm ( at flywheel)
Here is what it was after :
60,9 Hp / 5737 rpm ( hub )
98.1 Nm / 3559 rpm ( at flywheel)
A net result of :
+9,8 Hp
+18,7 Nm
That is realy big bang for the low bucks , or not ?
All this going on when the o2 censor still governing the action like this regarding AFR
Remember , these are all just add ons or bolt on modifications easily done by anyone.
Nice to se that the OEM exhaust system , fuel pressure and the rest easily supports this power increase without any issues at all.
Here is a video of a 0-100 km/t run in this power level:
[video=youtube;i02E6E-qwAg]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i02E6E-qwAg[/video]
Not to shabby or what ?
Frank :
The midrange increase is due to the spacer and the conservative position on the oem camgears as is + the ex-manifold working with the std ex-system.
I have managed at this level to squezze 105 Nm ( at flywheel ) out of it by fiddling with FP
( fuel pressure ) and ignition.
Thaks Peposhi. Nice to get people involved
Baguete
You have got a real flyer there indeed. Impressive work you do with modest resources.
i feel that as long as i got the normal summer tires on and the chewing gum engine mounts there is little chance of getting mine any much lower at the moment.
I did manage to pull a 8.7 sec with R-tyres and some diy modification to 2 engine mounts but feel like using R-tyres and comparing to normal summer tyres is wrong so doesnt count.
Have a couple of questions for you by the way , can you pm me a mail adr ?
Thanks for looking in everybody and hopefully i will bring on some more soon
The midrange increase is due to the spacer and the conservative position on the oem camgears as is + the ex-manifold working with the std ex-system.
I have managed at this level to squezze 105 Nm ( at flywheel ) out of it by fiddling with FP
( fuel pressure ) and ignition.
Thaks Peposhi. Nice to get people involved
Baguete
You have got a real flyer there indeed. Impressive work you do with modest resources.
i feel that as long as i got the normal summer tires on and the chewing gum engine mounts there is little chance of getting mine any much lower at the moment.
I did manage to pull a 8.7 sec with R-tyres and some diy modification to 2 engine mounts but feel like using R-tyres and comparing to normal summer tyres is wrong so doesnt count.
Have a couple of questions for you by the way , can you pm me a mail adr ?
Thanks for looking in everybody and hopefully i will bring on some more soon
I was close hehe :grinning:
Good work, impressive results (Y)
Would love to see if there would be any gain using the GA16 TB....maybe test it next time?
- Oh by the way, hope you didn't forget about the flange measurements, just reminding you because im sure your busy :laugh:
Keep up the good work,
Greetings,
Alex
Good work, impressive results (Y)
Would love to see if there would be any gain using the GA16 TB....maybe test it next time?
- Oh by the way, hope you didn't forget about the flange measurements, just reminding you because im sure your busy :laugh:
Keep up the good work,
Greetings,
Alex
baguete
Site Supporter
Eliot
Ex Super S Owner
baguete
Site Supporter
Usually with Consult Software...
Just been reading through this blog........
In terms of power figures comparing to the Nissan published figures, although there are some gains, there is still some discrapancy between what is measured and what Nissan publish. If the dyno is accurate in terms of flywheel figures, add 21hp on for transmission losses, (this is a safe estimate which has plenty of dyno backing).
Initial Figures
51.1 bhp @ 5370 rpm (hubs) (72.1bhp flywheel est)
79.4Nm @ 2850 rpm (flywheel)
Minor Tweeks
51.1 bhp @ 5370 rpm ( hubs) (72.1bhp flywheel est)
79.4 Nm @ 2850 rpm (flywheel)
After manifold and spacer plate
60.9bhp @ 5737 rpm (hub) (81.9bhp flywheel est)
98.1 Nm @ 3559 rpm (flywheel)
Nissan published figures for the CG13DE are;
Power - 75bhp @ 6000rpm
Torque - 106Nm @ 4000rpm
So, today's quiz question:
WHY ARE THE FIGURES SO DIFFERENT? Hint: It's a simple secret
In terms of power figures comparing to the Nissan published figures, although there are some gains, there is still some discrapancy between what is measured and what Nissan publish. If the dyno is accurate in terms of flywheel figures, add 21hp on for transmission losses, (this is a safe estimate which has plenty of dyno backing).
Initial Figures
51.1 bhp @ 5370 rpm (hubs) (72.1bhp flywheel est)
79.4Nm @ 2850 rpm (flywheel)
Minor Tweeks
51.1 bhp @ 5370 rpm ( hubs) (72.1bhp flywheel est)
79.4 Nm @ 2850 rpm (flywheel)
After manifold and spacer plate
60.9bhp @ 5737 rpm (hub) (81.9bhp flywheel est)
98.1 Nm @ 3559 rpm (flywheel)
Nissan published figures for the CG13DE are;
Power - 75bhp @ 6000rpm
Torque - 106Nm @ 4000rpm
So, today's quiz question:
WHY ARE THE FIGURES SO DIFFERENT? Hint: It's a simple secret
Low rider :
After having worked with and have had exsperience with multiple measuring devices ( read ; Dynos ) i know one thing for sure :
There is not one Dyno like another and there never will be !
Use a dyno , whatever your preference , as a reference for your working progress , and stay with that dyno ( measuring device ) and you will live longer and happier
Try reasoning , comparing or calculating differences and you will shorten you lifes exspectancy considerable
I never indulge myself into ANY discussions regarding this matter at all so i leave it at that and all my presented material will be as a result of using a DYNAPACK and thats my choice of poison.
After having worked with and have had exsperience with multiple measuring devices ( read ; Dynos ) i know one thing for sure :
There is not one Dyno like another and there never will be !
Use a dyno , whatever your preference , as a reference for your working progress , and stay with that dyno ( measuring device ) and you will live longer and happier
Try reasoning , comparing or calculating differences and you will shorten you lifes exspectancy considerable
I never indulge myself into ANY discussions regarding this matter at all so i leave it at that and all my presented material will be as a result of using a DYNAPACK and thats my choice of poison.
http://www.raceinfo.no/temp/tn_DSCN0565.JPG
http://www.raceinfo.no/temp/tn_DSCN0564.JPG
My Micra 1.3 GX 99 model 83k miles ( EBBdude`s engine has covered a lot less miles than this one) .
Only small mods :
Platinum Bosch spark plugs modified larger gap
advanced ignition
airfilter and box removed
Measured on the exact same Dynapack dyno as EBBdude measures on .
I was hoping for a few more hp , but the Dynapack doen t give anyone bragging numbers .That s for shure !
There is a rumour that Scandinavian Micras have less hp than some other countries versions , but never got this verified anywhere .
Next up is probably a intake plenum spacer and I will port my throttle body .
http://www.raceinfo.no/temp/tn_DSCN0564.JPG
My Micra 1.3 GX 99 model 83k miles ( EBBdude`s engine has covered a lot less miles than this one) .
Only small mods :
Platinum Bosch spark plugs modified larger gap
advanced ignition
airfilter and box removed
Measured on the exact same Dynapack dyno as EBBdude measures on .
I was hoping for a few more hp , but the Dynapack doen t give anyone bragging numbers .That s for shure !
There is a rumour that Scandinavian Micras have less hp than some other countries versions , but never got this verified anywhere .
Next up is probably a intake plenum spacer and I will port my throttle body .
@Turbokonge
Welcome to MSC !
Nice to see another Micra enthusiast from my region
Yours Micra is very close to other 1,3`s measued on Dynapacks regarding power numbers.
They all range from poor 47-48 to some 52-54 Hp on the hubs.
Nice thing is that one will quite easy climb higher with even smallest effort.
Welcome to MSC !
Nice to see another Micra enthusiast from my region
Yours Micra is very close to other 1,3`s measued on Dynapacks regarding power numbers.
They all range from poor 47-48 to some 52-54 Hp on the hubs.
Nice thing is that one will quite easy climb higher with even smallest effort.
Then a little bit more has happened to the Maxi Micra project.
Some more details for the engine division :
On the Micro Micra project we got rid of the OEM , non adjustable , fuel pressure regulator and replaced it with this little hose adapter :
Have done the same to the Maxi Micra now.
Instead we are going to use this adjustable fuel regulator :
With the new adjustable fuel-regulator we will be able to control the desired fuel pressure at all time.
We can also montitor / adjust the pressure with a gauge like this when we play with it to get some more power out of it :
The 02 censor will now be disconnected at the fuel pressure adjusted a little bit here and there….
Time will tell what happens then.
With this little collection of stuff going in it will be quite handy to control the fuel pressure:
More on the N20 system later on.
More 2 come soon…..
Some more details for the engine division :
On the Micro Micra project we got rid of the OEM , non adjustable , fuel pressure regulator and replaced it with this little hose adapter :
Have done the same to the Maxi Micra now.
Instead we are going to use this adjustable fuel regulator :
With the new adjustable fuel-regulator we will be able to control the desired fuel pressure at all time.
We can also montitor / adjust the pressure with a gauge like this when we play with it to get some more power out of it :
The 02 censor will now be disconnected at the fuel pressure adjusted a little bit here and there….
Time will tell what happens then.
With this little collection of stuff going in it will be quite handy to control the fuel pressure:
More on the N20 system later on.
More 2 come soon…..
sleeper_ss
Ex. Club Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQP-OdzoQGI
1:50..."Bad little kids doing bad little things..."
1:50..."Bad little kids doing bad little things..."
There is no sponsors on the N20 system , its all me and myself in a wet dream
N20 is a wonderful way of having fun as long as you know the consequences if you play to loud---ha-ha.
Will show you all the details of a complete set up AND the results of using it.
Have got some luck on the fuel pressure testing and will post some more about that in not too long.
N20 is a wonderful way of having fun as long as you know the consequences if you play to loud---ha-ha.
Will show you all the details of a complete set up AND the results of using it.
Have got some luck on the fuel pressure testing and will post some more about that in not too long.
I cant wait to see the melted pistons just kidding, looking forward to it. (Y)
just kidding, looking forward to it. (Y)It took me some time with other N20 systems i had on other cars & Mc `s to sort out all the bugs that you can encounter using the laughtergas
Once i managed to split both a gearbox and a engine block in half on an old Sunbeam Avenger that got shock treatment from N20 many many years ago.
On my Kawasaki H2 with N20 i almost found out what the old Kawasaki saying ment;
"There is only two types of Kawasaki riders ; the quick and the dead.....lol
Hopefully neither the MAxi Micra or its driver will exsperience the last option using N20(Y)
Once i managed to split both a gearbox and a engine block in half on an old Sunbeam Avenger that got shock treatment from N20 many many years ago.
On my Kawasaki H2 with N20 i almost found out what the old Kawasaki saying ment;
"There is only two types of Kawasaki riders ; the quick and the dead.....lol
Hopefully neither the MAxi Micra or its driver will exsperience the last option using N20(Y)
Now i have played with the adjustable fuel pressure regulator.
Went from the iron-fist controlled o2 censor area of 15,5 :1 to aboutly 13,5-14 :1 just by a twist of the fuel pressure regulator screw.
This is what I ended up with as a nice compromise of power / Nm without any drawbacks
( upper BLUE graphs is final result compared to what i had before )
A small increase of :
4,4 Nm
2,3 Hp
Not to bad at all
Using this pressure gauge to keep track of the different fuel pressures :
Then I just play with the pressure up and down till I find via the Dynapack the sweet spot of today.
If you are patient a nice combination of Hp / Nm will turn up as a result
You will also quite easy find the not so sweet spots with overfueling low rpm or high rpm lean out pressures.
So then , i have now reached the 100 + Nm level and thats is nice to see.
RESULT SO FAR :
63,2 Hp @ hubs
102,5 Nm @ flywheel
Next item on the menu ; more , more , more…
Edit ; put in correct ; @ , in sentence.
Went from the iron-fist controlled o2 censor area of 15,5 :1 to aboutly 13,5-14 :1 just by a twist of the fuel pressure regulator screw.
This is what I ended up with as a nice compromise of power / Nm without any drawbacks
( upper BLUE graphs is final result compared to what i had before )
A small increase of :
4,4 Nm
2,3 Hp
Not to bad at all
Using this pressure gauge to keep track of the different fuel pressures :
Then I just play with the pressure up and down till I find via the Dynapack the sweet spot of today.
If you are patient a nice combination of Hp / Nm will turn up as a result
You will also quite easy find the not so sweet spots with overfueling low rpm or high rpm lean out pressures.
So then , i have now reached the 100 + Nm level and thats is nice to see.
RESULT SO FAR :
63,2 Hp @ hubs
102,5 Nm @ flywheel
Next item on the menu ; more , more , more…
Edit ; put in correct ; @ , in sentence.
With the modified manifold and the TB modification you came to 60,9 Hp / 5737 rpm ( hub ) 98.1 Nm / 3559 rpm ( at flywheel) with avg. AFR 16+
By playing with the fuel pressure regulator and increasing the psi the AFR ratio should drop down, which means less bhp and nm using same modifications as those you had when you achieved a gain of +9,8 Hp and +18,7 Nm.......am i right? Because me and a friend were talking about your thread yesterday and he explained to me the meaning of AFR, how it works, whats the best value for AFR, how to change it and so on. He said if you'd dyno the car with higher fuel pressure the AFR should drop, and you'd lose some of the gained +9,8 Hp and +18,7 Nm. Now the interesting part is that you gained power. Why? and whats the AFR at the moment?
He told me that the ideal AFR is like 14.7 and running a higher AFR can melt pistons (more air, less fuel) while running lower AFR means over fueling (less air, more fuel). He said the most simple way to gain bhp is by increasing AFR but its not safe if you dont know what your doing.......yeeeey i know something new hehe :laugh:
By playing with the fuel pressure regulator and increasing the psi the AFR ratio should drop down, which means less bhp and nm using same modifications as those you had when you achieved a gain of +9,8 Hp and +18,7 Nm.......am i right? Because me and a friend were talking about your thread yesterday and he explained to me the meaning of AFR, how it works, whats the best value for AFR, how to change it and so on. He said if you'd dyno the car with higher fuel pressure the AFR should drop, and you'd lose some of the gained +9,8 Hp and +18,7 Nm. Now the interesting part is that you gained power. Why? and whats the AFR at the moment?
He told me that the ideal AFR is like 14.7 and running a higher AFR can melt pistons (more air, less fuel) while running lower AFR means over fueling (less air, more fuel). He said the most simple way to gain bhp is by increasing AFR but its not safe if you dont know what your doing.......yeeeey i know something new hehe :laugh:
14.7 is best in that it means that all the fuel is burnt with all the air but doesn't necessarily mean that its the best for power. i think slightly richer (maybe 13.5) is better for power but your emitions will suffer and fuel economy will also suffer slightly. Stock cars are mapped for fuel economy and emitions so there are gains to be had for just a remap (with power in mind).
well, maybe the AFR got better for power cos the stock ECU runs lean and get very lean with some breathing mods as it was pointed out to me by martboy21.
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