They're off at the moment, the photo server he uses has a bit of down time now and again, I'm sure they'll be visible again soon.
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"Maxi Micra" project....by EBBdude.
- Thread starter EBBdude
- Start date
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They're off at the moment, the photo server he uses has a bit of down time now and again, I'm sure they'll be visible again soon.
i didnt get that one
I think he's just testing your server
baguete
Site Supporter
i didnt get that one
REG was testing the link of your pic, to check if your pics are available...:laugh:
EDIT: 1275 was faster than me... lol
Got to push some more out here as i have more projects to work on...
I have come quite far in my work with the Evo cylindehead and will now take care of some valve-seat cuts at the in / ex seats.
This little thingy I use for setting the desired diameter to be transferred from the valve to the seat itself
The valve-seats are marked with machinist blue and here I cut the desired combination at the Inlet valve seats.
The different combinations is defined by these toolholders with my cuts in
At the inlet seat I am using a “ Australian touringcar “ profile cut and my own design on the exhaust side.
When I am done with the cutting and grinding in the valves I will test with machinist blue
Just applying a thin ,wery thin layer at the valve head and rotatet the valve a few times against the seat and I can then see if the seal area is ok
Turns out nice and fine and it looks like this
Just minor stuff left now in the cylinderhead build so keep watching…
I have come quite far in my work with the Evo cylindehead and will now take care of some valve-seat cuts at the in / ex seats.
This little thingy I use for setting the desired diameter to be transferred from the valve to the seat itself
The valve-seats are marked with machinist blue and here I cut the desired combination at the Inlet valve seats.
The different combinations is defined by these toolholders with my cuts in
At the inlet seat I am using a “ Australian touringcar “ profile cut and my own design on the exhaust side.
When I am done with the cutting and grinding in the valves I will test with machinist blue
Just applying a thin ,wery thin layer at the valve head and rotatet the valve a few times against the seat and I can then see if the seal area is ok
Turns out nice and fine and it looks like this
Just minor stuff left now in the cylinderhead build so keep watching…
Hey dude..............take a head shape and make better!
Hey Dude,
Have I missed somthing with your combustion chamber shape? I see your desired shape in plasticine, then you welding, then back to a blasted original shape(for valves) then to a modified head (more like the later Suzuki TSCC rather than the older classic Cosworth) that looks as if it has "cast" texture. Skilled as you are, I cannot imagine that you obtained that shape by welding alone. How you get there?
Hey Dude,
Have I missed somthing with your combustion chamber shape? I see your desired shape in plasticine, then you welding, then back to a blasted original shape(for valves) then to a modified head (more like the later Suzuki TSCC rather than the older classic Cosworth) that looks as if it has "cast" texture. Skilled as you are, I cannot imagine that you obtained that shape by welding alone. How you get there?
thanks again all for looking , hope you still find it interesting even if i get to mych "out " there
@superls
Thak you for your comment
@Liio
doing my best at what i like to do best
@Alexzaki
Thanks , well , it has started to frost very much here each night so it probably will not be to long now
@knobbly69
øhm,,,im not quite sure if i follow you on your question here....
The head is shown in different stages , some just for illustration and some in the procedures itselves.
What is the question again ?
did i weld it or not ?
did i machine it after welding ?
Help me out here so i can give you the answer you are looking for...
@superls
Thak you for your comment
@Liio
doing my best at what i like to do best
@Alexzaki
Thanks , well , it has started to frost very much here each night so it probably will not be to long now
@knobbly69
øhm,,,im not quite sure if i follow you on your question here....
The head is shown in different stages , some just for illustration and some in the procedures itselves.
What is the question again ?
did i weld it or not ?
did i machine it after welding ?
Help me out here so i can give you the answer you are looking for...
I was wondering........and whilst I am at it a few other questions (I appologise if I am jumping the gun a little and asking about issues you were due to cover later)
1) How it looked after welding
2) How you machined it to the correct shape
3) Did you measure the volume to work out the compression ratio
4) What ratio did you settle on
5) Was the gasket face machined
6) Can you recomend any good tuning books, Visards are really for 70/80's technology,
anything written since AG Bell's which are now 20 years old before the injection systems and 4 valve heads etc
Keep up the good work, perhaps you should write a book?
1) How it looked after welding
2) How you machined it to the correct shape
3) Did you measure the volume to work out the compression ratio
4) What ratio did you settle on
5) Was the gasket face machined
6) Can you recomend any good tuning books, Visards are really for 70/80's technology,
anything written since AG Bell's which are now 20 years old before the injection systems and 4 valve heads etc
Keep up the good work, perhaps you should write a book?
1. It looks almost like you see in the finished photos exept that i have done the last grinding by hand to get the last details in there.
2. by machine and hand
3. the chambers are measured and worked together with the pistons , gasket etc..
4. I settled for my intended ratio of my choice
5. gasket surface is refaced ( will show that next in project )
6. search the net for articles related or bookshops covering these matters and you will find lots of material.
i probably have already written several books,,,,at least in lines of words , they are all to be found on internet....
But broken down into multiple posts in threads
2. by machine and hand
3. the chambers are measured and worked together with the pistons , gasket etc..
4. I settled for my intended ratio of my choice
5. gasket surface is refaced ( will show that next in project )
6. search the net for articles related or bookshops covering these matters and you will find lots of material.
i probably have already written several books,,,,at least in lines of words , they are all to be found on internet....
But broken down into multiple posts in threads
sleeper_ss
Ex. Club Member
I've been very intrigued as to what other cars you like to play with...
@sleeper ss
i have 4 other cars that i play with.
1 Micra + 1 micra ( have 5 Micras in my family though )
1 Toyota Starlet rwd
1 vw beach buggy
The picture is from my Toyota Starlet that i want to finish before next " season " starts.
But here is some more stuff on the Evo cylinderhead build :
Before i can do the last work on the head i need to take care of some minor details with some control measurements and adjustments.
Now that I have more lift at the valves I have to check the clearance between the valveseal and the lock groove etc. Just as a precaution to be safe.
Using this little gizmo
Tapping it lightly to rest on the valve guide
Open the valve to the new lift = 9.5 mm
From underneath one can see how much that lift is at the valve
Checking clearance
Next to do is to fix some more pressure at the valvesprings as I am going to operate the Maxi Micra at a little bit more rpms than Nissans engineers intended it to be run at.
Measuring the OEM spring in this tool here. Measure pressure at set height,
52 kg at set height
Looking in here , parts from a Almera , and I will fin a solution to increase pressure with about 20 % which is my requirement.
It has got this thickness
Just adding a shim underneath the OEM spring.
The Micra and the Almera share the same shims so in it goes like this
Measuring the set up now,,,,and voila 65 kg at set height,,,perfect !
A touch over my wanted 20 % increased pressure.
No more valve float here in the future for the Maxi Micra
Need I say it,,,more to come…
i have 4 other cars that i play with.
1 Micra + 1 micra ( have 5 Micras in my family though )
1 Toyota Starlet rwd
1 vw beach buggy
The picture is from my Toyota Starlet that i want to finish before next " season " starts.
But here is some more stuff on the Evo cylinderhead build :
Before i can do the last work on the head i need to take care of some minor details with some control measurements and adjustments.
Now that I have more lift at the valves I have to check the clearance between the valveseal and the lock groove etc. Just as a precaution to be safe.
Using this little gizmo
Tapping it lightly to rest on the valve guide
Open the valve to the new lift = 9.5 mm
From underneath one can see how much that lift is at the valve
Checking clearance
Next to do is to fix some more pressure at the valvesprings as I am going to operate the Maxi Micra at a little bit more rpms than Nissans engineers intended it to be run at.
Measuring the OEM spring in this tool here. Measure pressure at set height,
52 kg at set height
Looking in here , parts from a Almera , and I will fin a solution to increase pressure with about 20 % which is my requirement.
It has got this thickness
Just adding a shim underneath the OEM spring.
The Micra and the Almera share the same shims so in it goes like this
Measuring the set up now,,,,and voila 65 kg at set height,,,perfect !
A touch over my wanted 20 % increased pressure.
No more valve float here in the future for the Maxi Micra
Need I say it,,,more to come…
@frank
dont leave them out , stuff them in there so that you dont have to throw them in the thrash.
Recycling is the word
@superls
there are probably 6 ways i could have done this but i did it as you see it.
For me it is an easy way of doing it and it got me my result that i wanted,,or ?
The point is to show people how and why. How by adding a shim and why = get higher pressure = problems solved
The weld filling is quite boring and there is already several pictures in the thread showing welding & finished chamber so ill leave it with that.
dont leave them out , stuff them in there so that you dont have to throw them in the thrash.
Recycling is the word
@superls
there are probably 6 ways i could have done this but i did it as you see it.
For me it is an easy way of doing it and it got me my result that i wanted,,or ?
The point is to show people how and why. How by adding a shim and why = get higher pressure = problems solved
The weld filling is quite boring and there is already several pictures in the thread showing welding & finished chamber so ill leave it with that.
frank
Club Member
@frank
dont leave them out , stuff them in there so that you dont have to throw them in the thrash.
Recycling is the word
.
my cams have 10mm lift tho EBB, those washers are 1mm thick, so i wanted to avoid coilbind
baguete
Site Supporter
Im using the same cams but with the shims under the springs, no coilbind i think. And i did 7600rpm without getting any spit shims...
EBB, what is the max lift the cams can have with that extra shim without damage the spring?
@frank
i have 9,5 mm lift , 2 shims under spring , and can put a 1.0 mm feeler blade between the lifter and lobe at full lift and still dont touch the piston or get coilbind. I do belive i also tested with a 1,5 mm and still good. Think it is 12,4 mm lift before you touch valve seal in std position of guide and coil bind at 11,4 oem. i could be wrong but i think thats the numbers i remember...
i have 9,5 mm lift , 2 shims under spring , and can put a 1.0 mm feeler blade between the lifter and lobe at full lift and still dont touch the piston or get coilbind. I do belive i also tested with a 1,5 mm and still good. Think it is 12,4 mm lift before you touch valve seal in std position of guide and coil bind at 11,4 oem. i could be wrong but i think thats the numbers i remember...
i have found many combinations of spring , shims , etc that can fit a modified cg head. But i think as long as a oem spring has got a correct pressure and characteristics it is just as good to use that. It is the pressure at the set heights that is important anyways.
No point in doing it overly complicated if not neccesary.
No point in doing it overly complicated if not neccesary.
baguete
Site Supporter
4A-GE stock or uprated springs?
frank
Club Member
stock i guess mate http://sr20nation.com/ga16forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=1158&p=8862&hilit=4age#p8862
i think the GA valves are 3mm shorter :doh: but they use the same springs, retainers, buckets and shims etc
Just for info :
i just saw that i have given the spring info in kg instead of lbs just as you know it but that doesnt matter as it is the percentage increase one is looking for.
I have 2 of these spring force tools and this one i opposite than the one i normally use but that one is lent out to a friend right now
i just saw that i have given the spring info in kg instead of lbs just as you know it but that doesnt matter as it is the percentage increase one is looking for.
I have 2 of these spring force tools and this one i opposite than the one i normally use but that one is lent out to a friend right now
Frank stepped up and got the Maxi Micra a new dash with rev counter and it showed up today
That is going to be fun to se at the end of the redline over , over and over again...
Thank you very much for the help Frank !
Now , someone out there has probably a quick diy of how to get this thing working in the car :
What to connect where,,anyone ?
That is going to be fun to se at the end of the redline over , over and over again...
Thank you very much for the help Frank !
Now , someone out there has probably a quick diy of how to get this thing working in the car :
What to connect where,,anyone ?
Good related topics:
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/40661-K11-Pre-Facelift-Rev-Counter-Wiring-Procedures?highlight=
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/410...wiring.-Specific-questions-inside.?highlight=
Hope it helps Erik
Cheers
Seb
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/40661-K11-Pre-Facelift-Rev-Counter-Wiring-Procedures?highlight=
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/410...wiring.-Specific-questions-inside.?highlight=
Hope it helps Erik
Cheers
Seb
@seb
thanks for links i will look into that and specially if it is possible to change over the speedo to get the km/t showing.
can one change the speedo itself with front plate you think ?
@martyboy
just a plug and play you think,,,dont have to connect any extra or find a cable ?
looks like you have to sort some cables according to Sebs links ?
thanks for links i will look into that and specially if it is possible to change over the speedo to get the km/t showing.
can one change the speedo itself with front plate you think ?
@martyboy
just a plug and play you think,,,dont have to connect any extra or find a cable ?
looks like you have to sort some cables according to Sebs links ?
It very much depends on the model EBB. Models such as the LX & GX already have the wiring loom with connections in place and it plugs in and works.
Other more basic models, (which come with no extras), like the 'shape' do not appear to have the wiring in place, (same thing seems to happen with the rear speakers, you can find the wiring harness for the rear speakers tucked away on the right hand side of the car behind the carpet panels). Anyway, if this is the case then a simple tacho signal can easily be spliced into from inside the car on the ECU side rather than using the otherwise more crude approach of tapping into the distributor wire inside the engine bay and running the wire into the car.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll figure it all out and no doubt enlighten us on some other tweeks we've not yet found with the little Micra
Other more basic models, (which come with no extras), like the 'shape' do not appear to have the wiring in place, (same thing seems to happen with the rear speakers, you can find the wiring harness for the rear speakers tucked away on the right hand side of the car behind the carpet panels). Anyway, if this is the case then a simple tacho signal can easily be spliced into from inside the car on the ECU side rather than using the otherwise more crude approach of tapping into the distributor wire inside the engine bay and running the wire into the car.
Good luck, I'm sure you'll figure it all out and no doubt enlighten us on some other tweeks we've not yet found with the little Micra
Mine was plug and play too!
You can also transfer your old speedo to the new housing, just take off front clear and black plastic and then four screws at the back/center and speedo drops right out...
You can also transfer your old speedo to the new housing, just take off front clear and black plastic and then four screws at the back/center and speedo drops right out...
Hi Ebb
When i fitted my rev-counter gauges all i did was follow the connection on the distributor back to the ecu, It changes from blue at the dizzy immediately to green/white, and goes through a connector at the side of the ecu where it is very east to splice into then run a single wire from there to the correct connector on the rev-counter plug. Bingo it works.
Kind regards
Malc
When i fitted my rev-counter gauges all i did was follow the connection on the distributor back to the ecu, It changes from blue at the dizzy immediately to green/white, and goes through a connector at the side of the ecu where it is very east to splice into then run a single wire from there to the correct connector on the rev-counter plug. Bingo it works.
Kind regards
Malc
@MalcolmT
Thank you for info.
But all this info leave me with more questions then answers i think. Some say ut just plug and play , some says it running a cable from here to there , with some colour here and some there , revs showing 500 rpm wrong etc etc
This must be investigated and looked into
Thank you for info.
But all this info leave me with more questions then answers i think. Some say ut just plug and play , some says it running a cable from here to there , with some colour here and some there , revs showing 500 rpm wrong etc etc
This must be investigated and looked into
solarice
Ex. Club Member
MalcolmT is correct the dizzy feed goes into a grey rectangle (contains a resistor / suppressor or something, cant remember) its near the ecu...center console, passenger side footwell its taped into the loom so you'll have to cut it free.
This again depends if you've already got the feed to the dash or not, because if you do theres no need to fiddle with the loom (obviously)
Probs easiest to plug it all in and test then work from there
This again depends if you've already got the feed to the dash or not, because if you do theres no need to fiddle with the loom (obviously
)Probs easiest to plug it all in and test then work from there
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