what did you do to your micra today ?

frank said:
that 10.5:1 engine is rebuilt stani, and will go back in once i iron out the little fueling anomalies (Y)
Click to expand...

wooohooo, sorted that 4th and 5th gear closedloop/over-ride pita thats been bugging me for ages :suspect:
i had assumed it was a "change of rate" issue, where the ecu kicked into closed loop whenever the acceleration or rpm rise dropped below a certain threshold, but its just a simple mph threshold :doh: and if you disconnect the circuit board connection to the speedohead it disappears.
so we have fuel enrichment @ wot in all 5 gears now (Y).
 
pollyp said:
ohh and to fix the 4th-5th gear lean out, try disconnecting the speed sensor wire from the dash to the ecu, yellow/blue wire
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;)

Cracking 0-60 in 7secs should be a snap for you Frank providing the tires are up to it. I HAVE to invest in a new set, my old Toyo T1S are barely good enough for rolling to and from the workshop......may have a heart attack when I find out what todays prices for tires are haha!
 
frank said:
wooohooo, sorted that 4th and 5th gear closedloop/over-ride pita thats been bugging me for ages :suspect:
i had assumed it was a "change of rate" issue, where the ecu kicked into closed loop whenever the acceleration or rpm rise dropped below a certain threshold, but its just a simple mph threshold :doh: and if you disconnect the circuit board connection to the speedohead it disappears.
so we have fuel enrichment @ wot in all 5 gears now (Y).
Click to expand...

Told ya it'd work :)
 
Frank was it only 4th and 5th gear that it done it? Same thing that affected my last red micra. Driving along and suddenly it would cut the accelarator for a second then let you on your way again?
 
Stani1029 said:
Frank was it only 4th and 5th gear that it done it? Same thing that affected my last red micra. Driving along and suddenly it would cut the accelarator for a second then let you on your way again?
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yes mate, mine closed looped till about 5k in 4th and 5th, then opened again till the limiter.
so it would have gone dangerously lean for the final 3 or 4 secs on a 1/4 mile run :eek:
the oldschool mini vacuum mech has a pull of 5kg btw (should do nicely :cool:)

 

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Ah right! Just someone was going to buy my old car cheap and that was basically the only running issue. (he knew it wasnt remapped and was getting my omex system too) but didnt want to buy my problems lol

So would you recommend this when i eventually remap my car on a nistune? If so what exact wire is it? :blush:
 
Stani1029 said:
Ah right! Just someone was going to buy my old car cheap and that was basically the only running issue. (he knew it wasnt remapped and was getting my omex system too) but didnt want to buy my problems lol

So would you recommend this when i eventually remap my car on a nistune? If so what exact wire is it? :blush:
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yep. the blue yellow wire behind the dials
 
Come on frank get the tubby back in, I wanna hear more progress :D

Surely with sub 800kg and 109hp stroker you would have had 7secs 0-60 anyways? Mine destroys golf gti, 205gti, 207gti, skoda vrs ect ect.
 
frank said:
anything for you paul :)

Click to expand...

ok that WG works opposite to a petrol turbo where it shuts anticlock and opens clockwise.

explains why removing ur external tension spring allowed the actuator spring to push the WG shut with full preload, plus applying +ve pressure to the actuator which is normally under vacuum would make it push the WG harder as boost increases till the engine blew.

so i'd suggest either:
keep the current WG arm position but alter the actuator to naturally push the WG shut but pulls it open when at max boost.

or move the WG arm 180deg on same side as the WG port and then:
-alter the actuator to naturally pull the WG shut and push when under +ve pressure (i can illustrate the mod)
-fit an actuator from a petrol turbo
 
WDID? Totally failed at removing the annoying metal plate and moving my air intake across as all my spanners are the wrong size (old set from another car) And the mini screwdriver style kit broke with 2 nuts to go :s .

On the plus i found out a friend of mine goes to "practical skills college" and can help me swap in new cams as a lesson with his tutor for free! ... anyone know where i can get some 1.3l or reprofile cams to fit my cg10 with?
 
Yes, 370cc injectors from SR20DET engine, same as Pollyp injectors, are enough for 290hp... :laugh:

I got these injectors like 1 and 1/2 years ago, only now i have the fuel rail done. :eek:

Someone is becoming a boost addict. :p
 
frank said:
yes egr kev, povspec dump valve eh :wasntme:
and they both "push" open paul (Y)
Click to expand...

the actuator at bottom of pic and the egr? gr8 just need to weld a WG arm on the opposite side OR maybe reposition the actuator on the "exhaust" side of the arm and fabricate a support bracket to hold it
 
baguete said:
Yes, 370cc injectors from SR20DET engine, same as Pollyp injectors, are enough for 290hp... :laugh:

I got these injectors like 1 and 1/2 years ago, only now i have the fuel rail done. :eek:

Someone is becoming a boost addict. :p
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lol the gearbox or shaft will prob shatter before hitting that much

someones indeed boostin alota fun :)
 
R-REG-SR said:
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,fuel pump and fuel tank gauge sender unit swap'd out,,,,dam wrong gauge sender warning light unit dead
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
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piece of plasic works now, the fuel light and a nice big hiss when undoing fuel cap
 
Today with my micra...Hmmm

Well i don't have one soo i'm just going to add that i've been dreaming about one today xD.

Miss it so much, its rediculous tbh...

Maybe January's purchase if i can find a nice condish black one!

Nice to see the CG magic is continuing!
 
Removed that annoying bit of metal plate and relocated my air feed behind the grill, now has the pipe running over the top of the engine to the TB. Less noisy than with it under the bonnet but seems to pull better at speed.

Also developed a wierd lighting fault? When i switch to full beams they dip to half instead and i can see nothing! Other than that though all lights work perfect and bulbs are fine... Anyone got ideas whats going on? It has been wet today and i found a few puddles so maybe somthings just wet and shorting?? HELP!
 
JoeK11 said:
Removed that annoying bit of metal plate and relocated my air feed behind the grill, now has the pipe running over the top of the engine to the TB. Less noisy than with it under the bonnet but seems to pull better at speed.

Also developed a wierd lighting fault? When i switch to full beams they dip to half instead and i can see nothing! Other than that though all lights work perfect and bulbs are fine... Anyone got ideas whats going on? It has been wet today and i found a few puddles so maybe somthings just wet and shorting?? HELP!
Click to expand...

pointing the inlet pipe into the stream of cool high pressure air will cause a ram air effect at high speed, increasing inlet manifold pressure and allow slightly more cool air to be crammed inside.

so both sidelights work, both normal lights work but highbeam mode just shows the sidelights? check the bulbs blade-like connector terminals are non-corroded and fits snug then check the highbeam filaments not blown
 
pollyp said:
pointing the inlet pipe into the stream of cool high pressure air will cause a ram air effect at high speed, increasing inlet manifold pressure and allow slightly more cool air to be crammed inside.

so both sidelights work, both normal lights work but highbeam mode just shows the sidelights? check the bulbs blade-like connector terminals are non-corroded and fits snug then check the highbeam filaments not blown
Click to expand...

Yeah that was the idea with the air feed :) , Just a bit miffed coz i liked the louder underbonnet noise, especially in tunnels :laugh:

Yeah both sidelights and both normal beams work, then switching to full beams dips the left beam back to sidelight and leaves the right as normal (tested against my gate today to see better) But nothing switches to full. Tried googling it and apparently theres a fault with lights on some micras but im not sure if this is what it usually does? I'll have to check the filaments etc when i get home monday as i'm away for christmas now and dont have my car :(
 
JoeK11 said:
Yeah that was the idea with the air feed :) , Just a bit miffed coz i liked the louder underbonnet noise, especially in tunnels :laugh:

Yeah both sidelights and both normal beams work, then switching to full beams dips the left beam back to sidelight and leaves the right as normal (tested against my gate today to see better) But nothing switches to full. Tried googling it and apparently theres a fault with lights on some micras but im not sure if this is what it usually does? I'll have to check the filaments etc when i get home monday as i'm away for christmas now and dont have my car :(
Click to expand...

the long tube contains and redirects the induction waves to where u point it straight out the grill hence away from ur ears. if u like induction noise so much, feed the pipe into the cabin lol

considering one sides trying to go fullbeam but failed to connect and the other side stays dipped, I'd check the light stalks are switching correctly first cos they control the dim/dip directly.
 
pollyp said:
the long tube contains and redirects the induction waves to where u point it straight out the grill hence away from ur ears. if u like induction noise so much, feed the pipe into the cabin lol

considering one sides trying to go fullbeam but failed to connect and the other side stays dipped, I'd check the light stalks are switching correctly first cos they control the dim/dip directly.
Click to expand...

Ha cheers on that one, somehow i think i may lose the cool air feed effect lol

Thanks for the info on what to check, i'll post up what i find and if i fix it when i get back tomorrow, or tuesday if its late. Hopefully its gonna be an easy fix!

Also anyone got a reliable source for camshafts? Wanted to get some for a while, i have a place i can get them fitted for me but not sure where to get the parts from? Might get my car a late camshaft related christmas present :laugh:
 
frank said:
aye, i could,nt find a blue and yellow wire, so removed the screw that connects the circuit board to the speedohead (went to a yellow and red iirc)

Click to expand...

Is there any point doing this to a standard car? I get confused with the open-loop, closed-loop terms.
 
1275 said:
Is there any point doing this to a standard car? I get confused with the open-loop, closed-loop terms.
Click to expand...

here,s an old dyno graph of mine that shows the 2 runs in closed loop (above the arrow, where the ecu is using the lambda signals to adjust the mixture to near 14.7:1), and 1 run in coldstart mode/open loop (arrowed, where the ecu is running from a stored map of around 13:1 a/f/r,s)
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=3k35&s=5
there is,nt much difference in power output, but you definately dont want to run lean under boost :eek:
the downside is that you end up running acceleration enrichment all the way up a long hill in 4th or 5th gear :eek: (your cat wont thank you for that fwn)
 

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