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Mark's 1.0LX

i see what your saying mark, just cant justify 240 on wheels then tyres which fitted will bring the total cost to 350-400, i dont have alot of spare cash having two children so everything i do has to be either cheap or free!!!:)

i could enquire about re drilling wheels but like you say its only possible on certain wheels, shame i cant nick the ford hubs and disc etc and do that, i could also run pcd adapters/converters but same again its the price

look at this on ebay, this is what im hoping for, just the wrong size!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/white-wheel-r...s_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET?hash=item2559ceb79d

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Weller-Wheels...s_tyres_Trims_Car_Rims_ET?hash=item45f21d1e69

i'll find some or might end up at lots of bootsales hoping!!:laugh::laugh:
 
it would be better to have the hubs and discs/drums re-drilled imo (there,s plenty of meat there to go to 114 or whatever eh)
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mmm sounds promising, any idea of cost for fronts and rear drums(just roughly)cheers mate, infact FRANK your a dab hand at making weird and wonderful inventions, could you do it matey for a price if i supplied you the parts, ideally ford 108 as then i have the revolution wheels and capri etc to choose from on ebay mate? thanks p.s sorry for stealing your thread mark:(
 
like mark says, you need an indexing table for accuracy really martboy, a local machineshop maybe ? (only for the hubs, the discs and drums can be mounted onto the hubs centerboss and self re-drilled)
 
I have heard of it being done by getting a machine shop to make a drill jig with two sets of holes, one 4x100 with holes the size of your studs, the other whatever PCD you want with holes the tread hole size for the boltd to be used, or the size for stud inserts. This is then bolted to the huband used to guide the drill through the drum and hub. Its a big old hole to drill in one go though, prehaps they could knock up a spacer to sit within the hole for a pilot drill to go through too.

Check these out,

14x8 Slots Ripe for a re-drilling, they will be 4x3 3/4 so too small for wobbles. Oh and they are not Wolfrace rim lip is wrong, could be Cobra - they would get you the look in your sig - does johnzuko know you are whoring his pic?
 
i couldnt help but whore his pic, that is some damn mighty stance for the micra, i want so have whored his picture to store in the w4nk bank!!he he

i;ll sort it, eagle eye on the bay and i will win(hopefully)

johnzuko should be proud im wearing his picture it looks damn fine!!

mark 35mm lowering springs 2 coils off, dont tell the rest of the club incase everyone dies because you cut them!!

i cant justify 1000 pound on spax adjustables im not on i race track, just the road and would rather look low for cheap

but make sure you secure then rear spring holders so they dont fall out

or check franks blog for matiz springs, 50mm lower than stock

buy these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Deawoo-Matiz-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item45eac748ea

80mm drop, perfect for you needs

(im waiting for the verbal boll00king im about to get!!)

i was searching for slot mags, didnt find them,shame they werent 13's

cheers mate
 
I dont have any -35 springs. So it looks like I'll have to take three off the stockers :)

When ebaying for slots, do a slot mag search first, then search for slot & slots & slotmag, in car wheels tyres and trims. Then search for wolfrace and trawl through pages and pages of modern high offset rubbish to find that set of badly listed slots.
 
frank said:
it would be better to have the hubs and discs/drums re-drilled imo (there,s plenty of meat there to go to 114 or whatever eh)
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Sorry to rob your thread aswell Mark but is this an option for me aswell? Is it possible to get 114.3 out of the hubs? Spose its worth a call :D
 
i'll try that on ebay cheers mark.

This is my old super s with mph 50mm

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Bare in mind though mine where 14x 6j with an offset of around +30 with 195/45

i took two coils out since then trying to find a pic!!?? still searching

They where fine afterwards

Never fell out, no one died and all the local dogs and cats werent hurt!!
 
Mark loving what your doing with the wheels and looking forward to it being lowered, there is nothing wrong with cutting standard or already lowered springs to drop it anymore. Its not an MOT failure because it not actally broken. If you do buy lowering springs before fitting those experiment and cut your standard ones in half and take a picture u will like what you see.

As for your mad gear knob ideas they are great and the fact you lenghtened the gear lever 300mm so the knob is up by your head made me laugh so hard and i thank you for that!!!!

Keep up the good work matey.
 
found one, 2 coils of the rear and rubber inserts removed about 60mm lower than stock

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think front may have only been one coil, could of been alot , lower but HUGE speed bumps around where i used to live and scraping on the de-cat was getting progressively worse the lower i went!!

the rear wheels went up inside the arches so couldnt space very far out as would catch, this is why i dont want 14's again. i want the stance like my avatar so need 13s only
 
right ive got a chance to get some 13 x 8 et - 10 for the rear, judging by your photos and your calculations for your rear 8j's with an offset of et-13 i should be 3mm towards the suspension damper,is this right??

then i found frank has banded his stock steelies which i think are 5j to an offset of et-10 but they seem to have alot of poke(i know they have bigger tyres)

i went to www.willtheyfit.com and the 8j will push out further than his 5, a picture paints a thousand words soo....

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but then compared against the 13 x 8j with the same offset they stick out even further but yours seem ok??

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please help mate, i need to know what your thoughts are on a arch pull to make it legal and not look ridiculous mate cheers
 
There's some clarification of franks track fitment here. It transpires that in those pics there is a 25mm spacer fitted.

So I think what you have in the will they fit simulation is how the tyre will fit compared to franks re-rims without the extra inch of spacer.

http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=15273&stc=1&d=1270711263

I have no idea really if I will be able to keep my planned tyre size under the arch untill I get a tyre on and try. If it all fails with the 8's on the back I'll usr the 7's and space the 6's slightly on the front.

I always really liked your old car Martyboy. Where did it go, is the new owner on here?
 
markbognor;398579 I always really liked your old car Martyboy. Where did it go said:
i sold it like a mug to a bloke from wales so i could by my 200sx, since then it was on ebay and sold again after that, as long as i dont see it again im fine!! loverly car, a1 condition, nevermind new ones coming now!! :p
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Fruit machine horn push and new steering wheel.

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Still no lows. But It's getting closer! Massive thanks to Ferritboy, who has posted me a stock panhard rod. Now I can get on with planning and making an adjustable without having to faff with immobilising my car for any length of time, and I have the standard size bush ends to work from as well.
 
Cheers Frank, I bottled it and didn't go as low as I could have, but keeping the car useable was more important than getting as low as possible at the mo.
 
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The dead coil plus one and a half from the front, the dead coil plus one from the back.

The front got the extra half off because it didn't sit level with a full tank of fuel. I wish I'd taken the full coil off, but I can always have the struts out again another day. The fronts are wired into the cups, the rears were very slightly loose on full drop but not enough to worry about untill I take some more off. At which point I'll thread the shock rod a bit further down like Frank did on his.

Before the fronts lost the extra half coil:

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It's still got the stock panhard rod at the mo, with a spacer on the near side to even up the arch gap. But an adjustable, or possibly just shortened one is on the cards. I'm not looking forward to trying to get the existing one off.

I'm pretty pleased with it, It needs a bit more low, but the ride is pretty bad now and it'll only get stiffer. Boy am I glad I'm rocking 70 profiles! I might have a look into sourcing some matiz rears, but that will of course cost money, of which there isn't any :(
 
The wheels got a light re-furb over a couple of evenings this week after the kids had gone to bed.
I re-sprayed them satin and I've moved the break between polished rim and painted centre out to the next natural join. I'm not sure that it was a wise move at the moment, but I am very pleased that the rims are now a lot shinier.

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It's sitting a bit low at the back because I've got a load of tools on board.
 
looking good mark (Y) budget tyres FTW eh :grinning:
(i,ve borrowed your springs BTW, testing them out on the back :wasntme:)
 
I'm heading up the M6 to Shropshire on Sunday morning Frank, going to Retro Mania. I could collect 'em on the way past in the am or later in the afternoon on my way back down south though I'm happy for you to keep 'em for a bit if you want them to stay fitted for a while.
 
Martyboy - I keep it in the car - if it looks like traffic division are going to give me more attetion than I would like I whip the extension off and put that on in its place.

Frank, good to meet ya today matey & thanks for the quick blast in the blue meanie. I've used up my car time for a while but I'll get those springs in when I can and see how it sits.
 
Cheers Neil.

They are better to use, once used to them, than door mirrors, its a movement of the eyes, rather than the whole head to see in them. Mine are flat glass cheapies, but proper convex glass wing mirros are the business. The major downside with them is if some pillock knocks them in a car park you have to get in and out to re-position them.
 
markbognor said:
Cheers Neil.

They are better to use, once used to them, than door mirrors, its a movement of the eyes, rather than the whole head to see in them. Mine are flat glass cheapies, but proper convex glass wing mirros are the business. The major downside with them is if some pillock knocks them in a car park you have to get in and out to re-position them.
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am i right in thinking your a teacher? if so would you have access to rc wiring.. im thinking somethink mad here but if you have how about your mirrors hooked up to some rc turning kit so use remote to push mirror left right and so on.....that wat no wires and could mount the stick anyware or simply throw in glove box lol saves getting out and trying to guess where....

its just a thought but with your brain im sure you could sort somethink? nice lil homework for the kids too lol get them to design ideas haha
 
That could be quite a fun project, though it would probably be more reliable, and easier to get the number of controls needed by using an IR system from a tv type controller. A wired remote would be the most reliable.

A few years ago I saw a system that used cables, much like some remote door mirrors, that was sold as an aftermarket accessory in the '60 & '70s.
 
are the longer wheel studs straight swap from another motor or did you need to source specific ones? can you recommend a good place and how much were they? ta
 
I'm pretty sure that these are the ones that I bought. Ithink that solarice bought the same, he didn't seem to have the same issues with the length of the splined section, but as I described before it was a pretty easy fix. I was doing it to a very early 1.0, which do have some different drive train parts to the later 1.0s and 1.3s. Humphris Motorsprt can also supply them, obviously the ones available from Matt go straight in with no faffing and are of a higher motorsport orientated quality, they are a fair bit more expensive though.
 
I set myself a research home work to be completed after school today (while I waited for it to be time for the prom). One trip to Hilsea part worns later......

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It would look emmense! But I don't think they'll fit legally without much archwork, or a cambered beam.

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So I guess I'll be trying to get myself in a position where some arch work and a cambered beam can be applied to the situation.

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175/60 R13 on an 8J -13 rim
 
JESUS MARK, NOW THAT IS PHAT!!!!

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Can you not hammer out the arch a bit so it doesn't cut into the tyres when going over bumps?
 
superls said:
whats the offset of them mark?
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markbognor said:
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175/60 R13 on an 8J -13 rim
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If they were 0 offset or prehaps a little more they would be more workable. If the car was a bit of a beater it would be ok because it wouldn't matter so much if I wrecked the paint or collapsed the rear quarter pulling the arch, I'm sure i can get away with rolling the lip without too much norticable damage but I'm not going to gain enough tread coverage.
 

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