what did you do to your micra today ?

Azzydot said:
So after a bit of glue I can go over it with glue ?


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If you give it a thin layer of epoxy glue( basically resin) on the sanded and prepped plastic yeah then you can go over that with bodyfiller, polyester resin n fibrelgass whatever, really thats better than glue because the glue can be flexible and crack later on
 
infinity said:
If you give it a thin layer of epoxy glue( basically resin) on the sanded and prepped plastic yeah then you can go over that with bodyfiller, polyester resin n fibrelgass whatever, really thats better than glue because the glue can be flexible and crack later on
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I got this ? They didn't have any epoxy glue


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Azzydot said:
Sr20 build micra, we all dream of this and most ppl fail the build, the questions are wiring ? Sr20 engine ? Custom mounts ? Scared of cutting the chassis legs ? Can't weld ? Don't have engine crane ? can't get it insuranced ? Can't measure custom shafts ?

There is only one person who can do sr20 build for cheap and has many many years of experience. This would only take him only 1 week to complete. Can anyone guess who ?


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Or @h70qmicra... Both capable
 
Azzydot said:
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on the gtir brakes I spaced it with 2 washers Don't no how many mm I think they about 5mm and they are catching the pads so any help @pollyp
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what dya mean catching the pads?
the washers fitted between the hub & caliper carrier simply shifts the carrier out abit so that there's equal gap between the insides of the carrier & both sides of the disc.
the pads should slide smoothly on the chrome clips.
the guide pins should slide smoothly.
 
pollyp said:
what dya mean catching the pads?
the washers fitted between the hub & caliper carrier simply shifts the carrier out abit so that there's equal gap between the insides of the carrier & both sides of the disc.
the pads should slide smoothly on the chrome clips.
the guide pins should slide smoothly.
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Right what I done was took the both 17mm bolts off then took the carrier off then used washers in then fitted the carrier over them then bolted it down, am I doing it wrong ? Any pictures would help thanks Polly


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Se@n said:
Scappy quoted me £48 for both calipers, disc and pads last time I was there but didn't have the funds at the time @Azzydot

( I had to remove them from car like but that doesn't bother me)
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No lie that is very cheap I would get 2 pairs and leave it, good bargain


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Azzydot said:
No lie that is very cheap I would get 2 pairs and leave it, good bargain


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It was a scappy near my lasses in Morecambe. Hopefully he'll have them in still as it was 3 weeks ago I get paid on 14th so they'll be getting a visit :D
 
Your from sheff aren't you? is there not many scappys over your way?
if its still there I'll ask how much he's wanting for dash + cluster if your want?
 
Azzydot said:
Right what I done was took the both 17mm bolts off then took the carrier off then used washers in then fitted the carrier over them then bolted it down, am I doing it wrong ? Any pictures would help thanks Polly


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the bolt goes through hub mount hole > 1mm washer > caliper carrier cage thread
can't get any simpler than that
 
pollyp said:
the bolt goes through hub mount hole > 1mm washer > caliper carrier cage thread
can't get any simpler than that
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right it's the 17mm bolt as u seen mines but think am using way bigger washer then 1mm so I will do that again 1mm is that right where I done the bolts tho ?


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Cant wait to finish work at 18:00 and get some work done on bertha. Me dads just been a saint & rang me telling me he has a throttle body I can have :D Good lad!!

Plans tonight throttle body/ outer cv boot and to replace one of the wheel nuts as I some how bust the threads being to heavy hand :/ need to be a torque wrench :p
 
pollyp said:
adjust washer thickness till the gap on both sides of the discs are equal. vernier calipers would be useful
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Yeh I will go to 1mm which everyone uses and haven't got the spacers that size so Tommow is getting washers and try that, thanks Polly


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clipped a cone and snapped a wishbone mount and popped a driveshaft saturday, fixed it today, first time anythings ever broke from being low or me being stupid, not good as im meant to be selling it this weekend and buying a k10 haha
 
Need help please guys I've took my throttle body off everything's the same apart from the new throttle body doesn't have a pipe at the front (looks and tastes like coolant)

Can I by pass it with abit pipe.
My cars 2000 coilpack
And new coilpack a of 51 plate coilpack
NEW
image.jpeg

Mine
image.jpeg
 
ur old TB had this ancient coolant driven waxstat fast idle cam mechanism,
which tends to seize open with age and which I always advise ppl to remove via here https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-19#post-446256
the modern IACV at the front also does the same job.

on the newer facelift coilpack TB, nissan prob leant bout the faulty waxstat and removed it, leaving the IACV (moved to the rear) to do all the idle control.

so to answer ur Q, the old TB coolant lines can be bypassed or simply plugged up cos it runs parallel to the coolant return route.
 
pollyp said:
ur old TB had this ancient coolant driven waxstat fast idle cam mechanism,
which tends to seize open with age and which I always advise ppl to remove via here https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-19#post-446256
the modern IACV at the front also does the same job.

on the newer facelift coilpack TB, nissan prob leant bout the faulty waxstat and removed it, leaving the IACV (moved to the rear) to do all the idle control.

so to answer ur Q, the old TB coolant lines can be bypassed or simply plugged up cos it runs parallel to the coolant return route.
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First class reply.;)
 
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having problems My car cranks so slow, and sometimes would not crank, battery is over 12v and I have 3 ground wires in car and on the engine, am thinking can it be a fault on the ign switch ? Has anyone had this problem before lights and everything Esle works


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Azzydot said:
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having problems My car cranks so slow, and sometimes would not crank, battery is over 12v and I have 3 ground wires in car and on the engine, am thinking can it be a fault on the ign switch ? Has anyone had this problem before lights and everything Esle works


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Have you checked your starter motor?

Your friendly local mechanic in training -Sploshua
 
Azzydot said:
I haven't checked that I think it's easy to put a wire from starter wire which is red/black onto a live and see if that's spins


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It could either be your starter brushes are worn out or your commutator has a bad connection could be dust and grime or groved if you cant get it working i would take it out and either take it to a pro or if you feel skilled enough take it apart yourself abd check the brushes (cheapest option)

Your friendly local mechanic in training -Sploshua
 
Sploshua said:
It could either be your starter brushes are worn out or your commutator has a bad connection could be dust and grime or groved if you cant get it working i would take it out and either take it to a pro or if you feel skilled enough take it apart yourself abd check the brushes (cheapest option)

Your friendly local mechanic in training -Sploshua
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Yeh true I can check the starter first see if bushes are worn, if it turns with live wire then it's defo ign switch, I doubt I need a pro to check it @frank


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check the battery terminals are holding 12.4-12.6v
then check at the starter terminals themselves are actually getting over 9v while someone cranks. very low V at the starter maybe poor ground or some high resistance somewhere
 
pollyp said:
check the battery terminals are holding 12.4-12.6v
then check at the starter terminals themselves are actually getting over 9v while someone cranks. very low V at the starter maybe poor ground or some high resistance somewhere
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Battery is 12.38v and I haven't checked the starter meter volt yet but I will crank it how u said and get readings thanks


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making a full exhaust as I said last time it's very close under tunnel got the angles right and cut and welded in place, need to flush it and clean it up,


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