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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
no, actually thinking more bout how the diff pinions work, having the plates acting only on one side would make it favour one side more more than the other so, yea i get it now why it locks on right turns more.
no, scrap that i'm still puzzled how a one sided lsd works lol
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
you would really be suprised how long it takes for things to get across the pond lol
it must've been shipped across via floating bottle lol

check my order on their website, still says Pending. so either they're still outa stock but told me it's been sent or they don't update their website but it's been dispatch and lost in post
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
k waiting for this damn adapter is getting stupid. i'm gonna buy another hose tail adapter off ebay. whether the current item i'm waiting for arrives or not on march 2nd i'll cancel it (tradings website says allow 30days to deliver after placing order if due date not stated)
 

martinb

Ex. Club Member
Ive been waiting about a month for a damn iPod lead of eBay, cut your loses mate go somewhere else and return it when it turns up ;)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
How to clean & configure the Idle Air Control Valve & idle bleed screw with Nissan Datascan

monchi asked me how to configure the IAV & idle speed, i did afew tests and this is how i did it.
Check the ecu & gauge coolant sensor, TPS, ignition timing and the waxstat fast idle mechanism are all working and within spec.​

The waxstat fast idle mechanism tends to seize and stop working over time, which means the throttle plate doesn't fully close once the engine's warmed up and cause idle speed issues.
The IAV does the same job as the waxstat.
Check if the waxstat mechanism is working and within spec by measuring/comparing the plungers travel when the coolant is cold & hot. If there's no travel or the distance is out of spec, it's recommended to remove the fast idle mechanism so it doesn't affect the closed throttle position and let the IAV control fast idle speed.​

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To clean & adjust the IAV:​

1. warm up the engine to 80C
2. check in datascan the Closed TPS & Neutral icon are both showing On, ign timing is bout 15deg (on both datascan readings and using a timing strobe). turn Ign off​

3. take out the IAV.
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4. disassemble the IAV. remove the 2 screws holding the grey solenoid body to the valve assembly. pry loose the locking fingers on either side. pull the solenoid & valve apart to reveal the solenoid motor rotor.​

5. flush clean & loosen the valve assembly by spraying with carb/brake cleaner and twiddle the motor rotor several times to both loosen the dirty valve and free up the rotors ball bearing which tends to seize with age. wipe the valve clean with a cloth. eventually the ball bearing should feel smooth with no resistance. if it still feels seized then the bearing has failed and the IAV needs replacing.​

6. fit the large o-ring back into the solenoid motor casing, lightly smeared with wd40 and reassemble the motor casing back onto the valve assembly. to slip the casing & o-ring onto the valve end, just apply light pressure and twist simultaneously and it should slip in. if not, check the o-ring hasn't slipped out of place. line up the screw slot with the screw hole roughly.​

7. plug IAV into loom, IGN on​

8. open datascan, go to "Active Tests" and set the IAV to 0%, press start​

9. shine a small flashlight into the valve center and rotate the IAV motor till the valve opening is just about closed and blocks the light​

10. set the datascan IAV to 100%, press start, and the valve should open. if the valve has turned the other way and actually closes more, the motor stator/casing is out-of-phase, rotate the motor casing 180deg to the valve assembly and repeat 8-10​

11. once the valve is configured to close at 0% and fully open at 100% value and working smoothly and instantaneously, then reinsert & tighten the IAV motor casing screws & bend in the locking fingers to lock its position​

12. close datascan & turn Ign off​

13. fit the small o-ring into the tip of the IAV lightly oiled and reinstall into the TB with light pressure and twist. if it resists and still feels spongy, remove the IAV and check the o-ring is still correctly in place. reinstall plugs.​

14. start engine & datascan. hold at 2k to warm engine back upto 80C then release throttle, let the IAV value settle down. it will slowly drop towards bout 17%​

15. with engine warmed up and radiator fan off, adjust the TB idle bleed screw at the back till the idle speed shown in datascan is at 750rpm. blip the throttle then let the IAV settle to make sure it consistently stabilises at 750rpm. check the idle timing is at 15deg.

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16. let engine cool right down to bout 15C then restart engine with no throttle to check the IAV opens up bout 70-78% during cold start then slowly reduces down to 17% as coolant reaches 80C​

17. when the engine's warm, setting the IAV at 100% in datascan should rev at 1500rpm and setting the IAV at 0% should rev at 500rpm​
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
also made a PAS cooler from copper pipe to be mounted higher above the intercooler

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
reversed the wastegate actuator bracket so the hose points likes this, and bent the hosetail fitting to point slightly away from the turbo inlet elbow thats in the way

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need to block off the unused hole in the L-pipe after the turbo. so cut flush the brass fitting

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taped n screwed a bolt to plug hole

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grind off n file smooth

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after measuring the front ride heights i found out that the front left was actually 10mm lower than the right and therefore causing the misterious scraping during hard right turns, slight tyre marks left at top lip of the wing.
coilovers need a good wipe clean after withstanding winter/rain with a partially failed cover

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time for a properly tailor made cover. measure n cut from pair of waterproof leggings

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put me moms sewing machine to good use. sews very good

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wrapped snugly round coilovers. no more excess fabric to flap about n rub

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tied the top end with string to allow the top balljoint to swivel freely, ziptie was too thick.

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tied in place

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front left been lifted 10mm, now its properly fixed :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i' have a Q, i'm ringing through my list of insurers for quotes but i'm abit clued as to how i value my car. do i tell em how much it'd cost to get a stock SLX replacement (£500-800 with £580 premium) or do i say the grand total of mod parts on the car (prob £3k+ and premium will skyrocket)?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok so insurance is finally sorted.

adrian flux & insurance factory had a minimum quote of £750 :/

went with Sky insurance at £582 with £350 excess tpft plus £80 uk recovery breakdown cover(Y)

the hosetail adapter i ordered since jan 31 has Finally arrived after i sent a recorded letter to them on tues:glare:

coilover springs making creaking noises so the top ball joint will need re-oiling tomorrow
 
nice one mate.... i was wondering if you could pm me the exact link you got your data scan from it seems like it may help my problem right? and glad it came and you can get a move on and show us some action!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
fitted the hosetail adapter onto boost gauge. had to dremel the threads abit short to fit

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had to mill out abit more plastic to access the adapter

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gauges fitted

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hadn't noticed how close the boost gauge is to the sun visor

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right, advice about these upper sperical ball joints used on the BC coilovers is that they don't lube well with wd40 cos its too thin, which then causes the upper coilover section to bind n resist turning while the bottom section of the coilover is still steering freely.

this causes the coilspring to shuffle on the upper/lower support cups that can be heard whenever turning and wears the plastic cup against the harder alloy cup over time.

so out comes the upper ball joint. clean it all from any dirt/grease. i swiveled the ball joint with a socket extension rod to be able to wipe the bearing surface clean. was a little resistive initially due to lack of lube

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now a thicker lube like engine oil is used to coat and cling to the bearing surface rather than being squeezed out like wd40.

swivel the bearing to one side with rod, add some engine oil to the bearing face then swivel the rod as arrowed to rotate the bearing and work the oil deep inside, then repeat the other side. it should feel looser and looser as the engine oil coats through the bearing till you could swivel the bearing with ur fingers.

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wipe excess oil and reinstall.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
matt says Gripper is building it at the mo. prob ready next week with helix clutch kit. hopefully before next weekend cos i'll be off to hongkong for a week.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
taken off the stock PAS cooler

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fitted copper cooler

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was gonna make a bracket mount but couldn't be bothered n used wire instead

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fitted intercooler and saw the pas cooler needs adjusting. good thing copper's easy to bend

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may kinked it abit. still works

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needs further bending. will remake a neater one next time but'll do for now

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repainted crossmember

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
it just bout slots tightly between the crossmember rear lip and the upright centre support. prob need to grind the middle thread under the IC abit shorter since the crossmembers slightly banana'd up the centre by 5mm
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
got reply from Ed bout the remap and he suggested i upgrade the injectors from 256 to 370cc, upgrade the fuel pump (walbro 255?), avoid FSE adjustable FPR, fit oil cooler.

anyone know where to get the 370 injectors & pump or have any for sale?

also he could probably map for low/high boost incase i can't find 98ron fuel but trickier n prob add costs. or we could map for high boost on 98ron and use octane booster when i can't find any during a roadtrip.
 
got reply from Ed bout the remap and he suggested i upgrade the injectors from 256 to 370cc, upgrade the fuel pump (walbro 255?), avoid FSE adjustable FPR, fit oil cooler.

anyone know where to get the 370 injectors & pump or have any for sale?

also he could probably map for low/high boost incase i can't find 98ron fuel but trickier n prob add costs. or we could map for high boost on 98ron and use octane booster when i can't find any during a roadtrip.
If you have the sr20de rail there is a 370cc option as stock no?
Maybe look at bigger stock fuel pump? skyline? they are always upgrading so might be able to get a cheap one off the bay.
Why not just map for normal fuel? save so much hassle...
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
If you have the sr20de rail there is a 370cc option as stock no?
Maybe look at bigger stock fuel pump? skyline? they are always upgrading so might be able to get a cheap one off the bay.
Why not just map for normal fuel? save so much hassle...
not sure if sr20de came with 370cc but i read that the 300zx non-turbo uses 370cc injectors? if i can find some 370 injectors, ya think they're a straight swap with the 256cc?

i'll check out some skyline pumps

ed could map to 95ron but says there would be no benefit and would lose out alota potential hp compared to 98ron, in which case i may as well stick to the current n/a setup. i'll deal with using octane booster when there's no 98ron.
 

Scott

My name is Scott
Site Supporter
The GTIR 444cc injectors are low impedence

91-99 USDM SR20DE = 259 cc side feed
00-02 USDM SR20DE RR = top feed

U12, U13, W10 and W11 SR20DET = 370 cc side feed

Pulsar GTIR SR20DET = 444 cc top feed

S13 and S14 RWD SR20DET =370 cc side feed

S15 RWD SR20DET = 444 cc side feed

SR20VET = 444cc top feed
SR20VE 20V = 350cc top feed

Side Feed Injectors

23 cc = 16 WHP
46 cc = 31 WHP
93 cc = 63 WHP
139 cc = 94 WHP
185 cc = 125 WHP * Pink GA16
231 cc = 156 WHP
259 cc = 175 WHP * Red SR20DE
278 cc = 187 WHP
324 cc = 218 WHP
333 cc = 226 WHP * Grey SR20VE
---------------------------------------------333 cc @ 4 bar = 261 WHP
370 cc = 250 WHP * Purple SR20DET
---------------------------------------------370 cc @ 4 bar = 290 WHP
416 cc = 281 WHP
444 cc = 299 WHP * Brick Brown SR20DET ( S15 )
---------------------------------------------444 cc @ 4 bar = 345 WHP
462 cc = 312 WHP
509 cc = 342 WHP
555 cc = 373 WHP * Yellow
---------------------------------------------555 cc @ 4 bar = 423 WHP
601 cc = 405 WHP * Yellow Tomei
---------------------------------------------601 cc @ 4 bar = 457 WHP
647 cc = 436 WHP
692 cc = 468 WHP
740 cc = 500 WHP * Red
---------------------------------------------740 cc @ 4 bar = 580 WHP
850 cc = 570 WHP SARD
---------------------------------------------850 cc @ 4 bar = 660 WHP

Nissan Top Feed Injectors

350cc = 275 WHP * Green SR20VE 20V P12
444cc = 299 WHP * Yellow RNN14 GTIR
444cc = 299 WHP * Yellow SR20VET

And you can get Walbro 255's for about £100 posted from America.
 

Scott

My name is Scott
Site Supporter
It would probably work out cheaper to get some used ones over here and have them ultrasonically cleaned.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
aye. scopez also said the 2nd link is the same purple injector & rails he took off an s14.

ordered:grinning:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
took out the red injectors. 3 came out fine but there's always one that gets stuck. pulled hard for ages till fingers hurt n it pops out

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think its an A46-00 275cc injector

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FPR can barely read the part # and cant find matching # on google

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
has anyone ever thought bout or tried replacing the rear brake propertioning valve with a manual brake bias lever? since my fronts are now way more powerful than the rears and i have abs anyway. the bias valve may improve braking system response, fine tune the braking balance and stop the rears from binding?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
TNT guy came tday with big box :)

new pressure plate, prob almera? the plate outer diameter is 190mm. need to check on stock flywheel if it'll fit

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helix pad clutch plate. pads are 177mm outer diameter

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very hard pads with razar sharp edges. can't imagine what it'll do to the jun flywheel :/

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spring plate layout

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how the helix plate sizes up with the PP

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release bearing

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fabulous new gripper diff

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now with room and notches for the speedo gear

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look at the ramp

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speaking of ramps, going to grippers website at http://www.davemacprops.com/gripper.html it says at the bottom that the ramps angles come as 30/65 40/65/ and 45/45

at the side of the box is written "nissan micra speedo 45/45"

so its a 2-way lsd, whoa that's gonna be hairy under lift-off/braking eh?

assembly of the diff

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solarice

Ex. Club Member
has anyone ever thought bout or tried replacing the rear brake propertioning valve with a manual brake bias lever? since my fronts are now way more powerful than the rears and i have abs anyway. the bias valve may improve braking system response, fine tune the braking balance and stop the rears from binding?
Yeah should be dead easy...pretty much just gotta replace the brake lines and remove the old valve. I only thought about it after id finished fitting all the stuff back on mine :doh:

Parts are looking great, bet you cant wait haha.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Yeah should be dead easy...pretty much just gotta replace the brake lines and remove the old valve. I only thought about it after id finished fitting all the stuff back on mine :doh:

Parts are looking great, bet you cant wait haha.
certainly exciting receiving new stuff through the post as the key date approaches:grinning:

i like it when a plan comes together:laugh:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
try the clutch on stock flywheel and it fits :grinning:

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new lsd beside stock diff. measured em up and the speedo will fit. take to machine shop tomorrow to swap bearings over

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slots for speedo

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frank

Club Member
i think you only need the 255 if you have to run high fuelrail pressures paul (which is unlikely with those huge 370cc injectors imo)
 

martinb

Ex. Club Member
Looking good man!

I picked up an s14 370cc rail and injectors last night

Came out a 36000 s14 from my boss for free

Can you put some pics up of your modified fuel rail please Paul, seems it's proving quiet difficult getting the rail adjusted

Cheers mate and I bet you cant wait!
 
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