what did you do to your micra today ?

Low Rider said:
I dread to think what my fuel economy will be. Perhaps not quite as bad as I think, as it will actually have closed loop control this time around but I expect it to be pretty cruddy overall, especially if I boot it :rolleyes:
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Yeah, as it happens i need the intake pipe welding up so im driving the car without boost...so ive gotta keep the pedal sensible or it overfuels (left the sc fuel map installed). Would love it if i can get near stock mpg, with just the emanage doing the fuel control.

Obviously on boost im not even gonna do the math, i dont need the stress lol.

The hunt for a alu welder continues (something i thought would be straight forward)...stainless welding is sorted once i get a bit of 10mm stainless pipe.
 
LegoJeep said:
Fitted newly painted wheel trims.. They look good, but the one I painted quickly(on a cold and rainy day, after only washing it then spraying it) looks 10 times better than the other 3 that I washed, cleaned with thinner, dried, primed, then painted in very nice weather. ??? They are only temporary anyway.

Rechecked the voltage on my airflow meter and monitored it from startup til the engine was warm. Started out around 1.49v and dropped off to 1.13 when warm.. Still waiting for money transferr to paypal to buy a new TB :(

Going to install some stainless allen bolts for the cam cover :)
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I need a new TB too, stalls and runs like crap when cold, is fine when warm. You going for one from a scrappy or recon one?
 
Warpa said:
You going for one from a scrappy or recon one?
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Going for this http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/N...020fd20aeda9dc84912fc2c2c7c46fabf335d1&000329 It's cheaper than anything I could get here unless I go to a scrappy.. but the scrappies here would probably still want a fortune for it and I've about had it with them anyway. Needed some simple parts but they said they couldn't be bothered and they don't let people pick their own parts. I'm not going to buy car stuff here anymore anyway unless I absolutely have to.. things usually cost 2-10 times as much as they should. Just some of the plastic clips to hold the underbody panels on were £3.50 each :eek:

And I won't be going to the dealer for parts either.. £980 for it.. wha?? that's half of what I paid for the car!
 
Noddie said:
surely there is no need to buy a new one, can you not just recon yours??
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Any guides? I've already tried to resolder it twice. Didn't just reheat them, I added some new solder. I guess I could just take the whole thing apart now that I plan to buy one anyway... always did love taking things apart
 
WDID? I kicked it very hard! ...nah, finally sorted out the missing linkage in the right door with a section of allthread with some artistic bends.. I can finally open the door without having to reach through :D
 
solarice said:
Yeah, as it happens i need the intake pipe welding up so im driving the car without boost...so ive gotta keep the pedal sensible or it overfuels (left the sc fuel map installed).
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i changed my map for more boostage this morning too kris (screwdriver job mine is :))
WDID ? fitted the 5th injector throttle switch

P3270059.JPG
 
Got a phone call of my mate saying that he'd seen a black micra si in the scrappers! Couldnt turn it down and had a look. 3 cars up so had a risk climb, managed to get inside sat on broken glass and nabbed a black gear knob, black gaiter, black steering column surround and a black rev counter surround all for a fivverrrr!!! and less painting to do now :D ohhh and a free wiper stalk ;) :wasntme:
 
Got my heavy duty puller in the post. It got my passenger side wiper arm off but the driver side wouldn't budge. Finally found an old knackered puller in my dad's garage. It kept tilting off but by leaning my entire body weight on it eventually came off. The spidle was covered in galvanically corroded aluminium. I've put out a scrappy request for new arms as they're chewed up to heck.

wiper_arm.png


Note to Nissan in Wigan. USE. COPPER. GREASE. BETWEEN. ALLY. AND. STEEL. AND. DON'T. OVER. TIGHTEN. EVERYTHING :mad: ! (This is the same garage that meant I had to sploosh £70 on a rattle gun to get my wheels off after they put them back on with air tools!).
 
Nah, that's true Will. More interested in getting the new shocks on at the mo' :).
 
Guy said:
USE. COPPER. GREASE. BETWEEN. ALLY. AND. STEEL. AND. DON'T. OVER. TIGHTEN. EVERYTHING :mad: ! (This is the same garage that meant I had to sploosh £70 on a rattle gun to get my wheels off after they put them back on with air tools!).
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I know what you mean Guy.. I tried to change over to winter tires last year and couldn't get them off for anything.. was afraid I was going to break something, as I was eventually just moving the car by the wheel nut.. ended up paying £32 for a garage to change them, but at least these guys know what copper grease and proper torque settings are.
 
Guy said:
Got my heavy duty puller in the post. It got my passenger side wiper arm off but the driver side wouldn't budge. Finally found an old knackered puller in my dad's garage. It kept tilting off but by leaning my entire body weight on it eventually came off. The spidle was covered in galvanically corroded aluminium. I've put out a scrappy request for new arms as they're chewed up to heck.

Note to Nissan in Wigan. USE. COPPER. GREASE. BETWEEN. ALLY. AND. STEEL. AND. DON'T. OVER. TIGHTEN. EVERYTHING :mad: ! (This is the same garage that meant I had to sploosh £70 on a rattle gun to get my wheels off after they put them back on with air tools!).
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i never trust any garages. always irritates me when getting my tyres changed that they torque my wheelnuts to like a billion Nm with wrong tyre pressure.
as they say If ya want it done proper to ur spec, do it urself. thats why i rebuild things i've received from other ppl even if its new
 
Today i replace the valve steam seals with the engine on place, not that hard using a leakdown tester to hold the valves. :D

I hope that the oil consumption problem goes away, otherwise i will have to make another engine... :eek:

BTW, did a compression test:

1st cyl: 13,4bar
2nd cyl: 13,2bar
3rd cyl: 13,3bar
4th cyl: 13,8bar

Isnt 13bar the max value for a normal engine and 11 the minimum? Why those higher values on my engine? Leakdown test gives 20% leakage to the crankcase, no leaks to the intake, exhaust or coolant, so its normal i think...
 
looks normal.
btw not all compression tester reads the same.
first time i used my tester on my first micra i read round 14-15bar, then i had to replace the gauge valve and it went down to 12-13bar

i try to test compressions as fast as possible after depressurising the fuel and removing the plugs so that the cooling engine won't affect the readings too much.

shim gaps and valve timing will affect peak compression readings
 
pollyp said:
looks normal.
btw not all compression tester reads the same.
first time i used my tester on my first micra i read round 14-15bar, then i had to replace the gauge valve and it went down to 12-13bar

i try to test compressions as fast as possible after depressurising the fuel and removing the plugs so that the cooling engine won't affect the readings too much.

shim gaps and valve timing will affect peak compression readings
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Looks normal to me too, but its strange, last time i did the test, i got around 12,5bar on all cylinders. Yes, i disconnect all the injector plugs, dizzy small plug, hot engine and WOT. I have all the gaps within spec, just have a 260º/10mm inlet cam.

Anyway, there is still some oil appearing on the pistons, more on the 2nd cyl (like it used to have), not a valve steam seals problem because ive replace them? :eek:
 
baguete said:
Looks normal to me too, but its strange, last time i did the test, i got around 12,5bar on all cylinders. Yes, i disconnect all the injector plugs, dizzy small plug, hot engine and WOT. I have all the gaps within spec, just have a 260º/10mm inlet cam.

Anyway, there is still some oil appearing on the pistons, more on the 2nd cyl (like it used to have), not a valve steam seals problem because ive replace them? :eek:
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maybe worn oil rings allowing some oil into the cylinders and sealing the rings hence higher peak readings?
the piston top should normally be bone dry
 
it always is the oil control rings in my experiance, and never the valve guide seals, i always clean and re-stretch the rings so that they scrape the bore like they,re supposed to :)
 
pollyp said:
maybe worn oil rings allowing some oil into the cylinders and sealing the rings hence higher peak readings?
the piston top should normally be bone dry
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frank said:
it always is the oil control rings in my experiance, and never the valve guide seals, i always clean and re-stretch the rings so that they scrape the bore like they,re supposed to :)
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Only 3rd cyl is dry, the rest is a bit wet and 2nd cyl is always very wet. That makes sense because this engine dont go like the old SR engine with similar spec, maybe lower compressions when booting but good readings at the test. Ah crap, i will make a good engine from scratch (1.3 with 1.0 pistons and 260º/10mm cams), but will run this engine until i have it ready. Just need to buy some crank/rods bearings, swap the pistons/rods and get the head/block skimmed, already have the piston rings (new), timing kit (very good condition) and gasket kit.
 
baguete said:
Only 3rd cyl is dry, the rest is a bit wet and 2nd cyl is always very wet. That makes sense because this engine dont go like the old SR engine with similar spec, maybe lower compressions when booting but good readings at the test. Ah crap, i will make a good engine from scratch (1.3 with 1.0 pistons and 260º/10mm cams), but will run this engine until i have it ready. Just need to buy some crank/rods bearings, swap the pistons/rods and get the head/block skimmed, already have the piston rings (new), timing kit (very good condition) and gasket kit.
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when my first blue slx had worn rings it lacked alot of torque and so had to rev in 4th in order to reach 60mph and also had very high compression.

just cranking the engine won't have as much pressure as say a hot combustion, therefore oil may easily seep past a worn ring, build up inside the cylinder till it seals the rings hydraulically to give a high false ready. during normal combustion the high heat would burn this leaked oil (some smoke and oil loss) and the high pressure could leak past the worn rings into the casing resulting in loadsa blowby and torque loss.

building new engine, check the bore, piston, rings etc are all close as possible within spec
 
only the top 2 rings (compression rings) are responsible for compression eh :)
the oil control rings er ....................leave a very fine film of oil for sealage/lubrication eh :)
 
cleaned an polished, slightly, then had a mini revelation, got the throttle body I've had so much hassle with and searched the serial number online, and what did I discover?
Donor vehicle was a 1.4!
I'm sure i asked him if it was 1.6, maybe he didn't know, or really care lol, so now have a TB an fuel rail off a 1.4 almera if anyone fancies a trade for some 1.6 goodies hehehehe:rolleyes: may jus put them on ebay fund the purchase of some accurate parts lol
 
pollyp said:
when my first blue slx had worn rings it lacked alot of torque and so had to rev in 4th in order to reach 60mph and also had very high compression.

just cranking the engine won't have as much pressure as say a hot combustion, therefore oil may easily seep past a worn ring, build up inside the cylinder till it seals the rings hydraulically to give a high false ready. during normal combustion the high heat would burn this leaked oil (some smoke and oil loss) and the high pressure could leak past the worn rings into the casing resulting in loadsa blowby and torque loss.

building new engine, check the bore, piston, rings etc are all close as possible within spec
Click to expand...

frank said:
only the top 2 rings (compression rings) are responsible for compression eh :)
the oil control rings er ....................leave a very fine film of oil for sealage/lubrication eh :)
Click to expand...

Well, took it for a ride and gave it a hard time, this is how the crank breather blows:





:eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Not totally hidden exactly Will :oops:. Note the copper grease Nissan :mad: . Still, I have wipers again after an hours work last night :).


cracked.png
 
baguete said:
Today i replace the valve steam seals with the engine on place, not that hard using a leakdown tester to hold the valves. :D

I hope that the oil consumption problem goes away, otherwise i will have to make another engine... :eek:

BTW, did a compression test:

1st cyl: 13,4bar
2nd cyl: 13,2bar
3rd cyl: 13,3bar
4th cyl: 13,8bar

Isnt 13bar the max value for a normal engine and 11 the minimum? Why those higher values on my engine? Leakdown test gives 20% leakage to the crankcase, no leaks to the intake, exhaust or coolant, so its normal i think...
Click to expand...

I'm being a tad picky but 20% leakdown is a little on the high side but not unheard on stock type rings. I'd look for <10% leakdown and <5% variation between cylinders. It looks as though the rings in general are perhaps not up to their best :(

Reminds me of my old 90k miler CG13 that had mirror bores and would lose loads of oil out of the breather due to huge blowby and also end up with a black rear bumper. I never bothered to do a leakdown, but when we replaced the engine for a very low miler the blowby and oil comsumption was almost eliminated by comparison and a clean car no matter how hard it was driven.
 
Low Rider said:
I'm being a tad picky but 20% leakdown is a little on the high side but not unheard on stock type rings. I'd look for <10% leakdown and <5% variation between cylinders. It looks as though the rings in general are perhaps not up to their best :(

Reminds me of my old 90k miler CG13 that had mirror bores and would lose loads of oil out of the breather due to huge blowby and also end up with a black rear bumper. I never bothered to do a leakdown, but when we replaced the engine for a very low miler the blowby and oil comsumption was almost eliminated by comparison and a clean car no matter how hard it was driven.
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Yes, 20% is like the line between a normal engine and a "dead" engine, but youre right, they are not good at all. Im not loosing much oil now with 15W40, i dont like mineral oil, but will do for now until i have another good engine. I dont have much oil on the rear bumper, just some tiny little drops. The problem with this engine is that was removed from an old ladys car, by the looks of the oil pickup and sump, it wasnt serviced regularly, loads of gunk around the oil pickup, dont even know how it would suck the oil. :eek:
 
Thought rather than pay £10 per wheel to swap some tyres over i'd do it myself, ghetto style for £2 from poundland for 2 tyre levers and some man powerzzz :D OMG! 104kg jumping up and down on the first tyre didn't break the bead!!! what!! lol. :confused:

Going to have to get loco with a jack and bit of wood and a K10's kerb weight to break these bead's hearts haha! :)
 
K10 SHED said:
Thought rather than pay £10 per wheel to swap some tyres over i'd do it myself, ghetto style for £2 from poundland for 2 tyre levers and some man powerzzz :D OMG! 104kg jumping up and down on the first tyre didn't break the bead!!! what!! lol. :confused:

Going to have to get loco with a jack and bit of wood and a K10's kerb weight to break these bead's hearts haha! :)
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this is how i do it SHED...
543224_10150761345289047_505344046_11371612_1730110708_n.jpg
 
I'm traumatised, just done my driver's side front shock :D. Having a strong coffee before doing passenger side...
 
My micra is having a new exhaust fitted and is having her front end panel looked at Monday. I also need a new windscreen.
 
(yesterday) received new dials thanks to adamsricky! swopped over my bulbs, plugged it in and hey presto =D, today i was going to take a can of rattle paint to my alloys (cos i'm a tight bugger) but the looks of the sky is putting me off, looking into new suspension instead :p
 

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