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PROject PROfect

MicraPRO said:
So I've had 4 nights off not normal for me so had a few days of beautiful sunshine.
Started out with a stock preface grill chopped it up and bridged the gaps with holiday inn electric door keys (perks of the job)
Slapped some body filler in it and while I was cleaning my radiator and removing and sanding the back bumper for another coat of paint Chloe @Clodo was sanding the new grill.
Modified and really engineered my front splitter mounting brackets and number plate.
Till she looked like this :)
Nismo grill to match the splitter :cool:
View attachment 42667
View attachment 42668
Next I finally had to have a homage to the late Paul Walker and an under car led kit was next.
Love them or hate them they get you noticed.
Fast and Furious eat your heart out.
View attachment 42669
View attachment 42670
7 different colours various settings and remote controlled.
Wired direct to battery so I can blip them whenever.
All in all mad set of days off.
Click to expand...
I ****ing love neons
 
So it's that time of the year again!!
Time to fix these side skirts!
1436272615357.jpg

Hate this job with a passion...
 
Ok ladies and gents as your all aware I bought a new engine... this engine is also having a new clutch and here lies my issue...
The car will be na till I pop the turbo setup on it
Clutch recommendations?
 
imo just like tyres, buy & fit the highest performing clutch you can afford within ur time & budget for the max torque & type of abuse ur ever gonna throw at her.
do it right "once" and not bit by bit.
better to have too much clutch bite than lack of.

I'm guessing stock £30-60 180mm clutch & PP will only go upto 90ish hp?
a more aggressive £200 180mm paddle helix clutch goes bout 150hp.
bigger £350 200mm clutch like mine is guaranteed to handle +160hp.
 
pollyp said:
imo just like tyres, buy & fit the highest performing clutch you can afford within ur time & budget for the max torque & type of abuse ur ever gonna throw at her.
do it right "once" and not bit by bit.
better to have too much clutch bite than lack of.

I'm guessing stock £30-60 180mm clutch & PP will only go upto 90ish hp?
a more aggressive £200 180mm paddle helix clutch goes bout 150hp.
bigger £350 200mm clutch like mine is guaranteed to handle +160hp.
Click to expand...
Sounds like I'm looking for a helix paddle clutch then...
Paul you had a sportex at some point didn't you?
Is there a difference in pipe diameter?
 
MicraPRO said:
Ahh right my exhaust is shot to pieces literally falling apart :(
Been on sportex site and there is no information about the system at all just prices and what tip size you want :/ I'll email them and see what they say...
Click to expand...
I'd be interested in what you do for an exhaust (N/A) because I'm having issues with my autotest car, I've got an Ashley manifold but they don't seem to make micra systems any more.
 
MaxK11C said:
I'd be interested in what you do for an exhaust (N/A) because I'm having issues with my autotest car, I've got an Ashley manifold but they don't seem to make micra systems any more.
Click to expand...
Looks like I'll be getting a sportex 4" system no reply from sportex as yet.
Won't be getting manifold because its going to be changed for turbo mani anyways.
£205.48 for a full system :)
 
MicraPRO said:
Looks like I'll be getting a sportex 4" system no reply from sportex as yet.
Won't be getting manifold because its going to be changed for turbo mani anyways.
£205.48 for a full system :)
Click to expand...
That price not inc mani?
Not bad, now I need to find out how loud they are, has to be on the quiet side of things..
 
MicraPRO said:
That downpipe all the way back.
Click to expand...
Considering an Ashley back box is £150.. Sportex sounds a good way to go... In fact I've got a Peugeot 205 GTI Sportex back box under my bed I should probably try and sell ..
Thanks for reminding me
 
MaxK11C said:
Considering an Ashley back box is £150.. Sportex sounds a good way to go... In fact I've got a Peugeot 205 GTI Sportex back box under my bed I should probably try and sell ..
Thanks for reminding me
Click to expand...
Sound pretty good as well dude :) Lots of popping goodness :)
 
I have a sportex backbox and janspeed decat only and its pretty damn loud tbf! Does sound nice but the bass really attacks the ears at around 2000 revs :(
 
Did some more work on the CG auto block today.
Painted cam cover
Bit more tidying here and there cleaned the sump and got rid of some rusty stone chip spots.
Can't wait to put it back together... got lots of stuff on order from Micks Garage as recommended by @pollyp cheers mate got a bargain :D
Ok so I guess I should post some pics of my favourite parts of today!
1436984853747.jpg

1436984867092.jpg

1436984878957.jpg

1436984891634.jpg

1436984902770.jpg

Ok so it's all cam cover pics haha pretty much done with cleaning and painting now just a little skim of the head and a new Victor reines gasket... and arp head bolts to arrive :D till I can put it all back together :)
 
I use this black gasket sealant stuff in halfords

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-tr...xhaust-repairs/loctite-si-5980-flange-sealant

but imo it takes ages to cure and prob too soft. I find PU sealant like tigerseal the best/strongest.

it's very important that you carefully scrap all the old sealant off both mating surfaces (including the groove between rocker cover & rubber seal) to provide a smooth flat surface. I use razor blades to scrape along flat faces making sure the old swarf doesn't fall into the engine & flathead screwdriver in the grooves.

and thoroughly degrease every nook cranny with carb/brake cleaner & rag (just like detailling) it only takes a small section of oil to ruin the seal and leak.

dry with lint free rag or kitchen roll or old tshirt.

apply bead of sealant inside the rocker cover groove, push rubber seal into groove, smear the excess onto the bottom side of the rubber seal.
smear a consistant & thin layer of sealant around the head wherever the seal sits on.
bolt it down evenly.

for the timing cover same thing. light thin unbroken smear of sealant all round the touching faces and evenly bolt up.

leave to fully cure 12-24hr imo before splashing it with oil from starting the engine.
 
pollyp said:
I use this black gasket sealant stuff in halfords

http://www.halfords.com/motoring-tr...xhaust-repairs/loctite-si-5980-flange-sealant

but imo it takes ages to cure and prob too soft. I find PU sealant like tigerseal the best/strongest.

it's very important that you carefully scrap all the old sealant off both mating surfaces (including the groove between rocker cover & rubber seal) to provide a smooth flat surface. I use razor blades to scrape along flat faces making sure the old swarf doesn't fall into the engine & flathead screwdriver in the grooves.

and thoroughly degrease every nook cranny with carb/brake cleaner & rag (just like detailling) it only takes a small section of oil to ruin the seal and leak.

dry with lint free rag or kitchen roll or old tshirt.

apply bead of sealant inside the rocker cover groove, push rubber seal into groove, smear the excess onto the bottom side of the rubber seal.
smear a consistant & thin layer of sealant around the head wherever the seal sits on.
bolt it down evenly.

for the timing cover same thing. light thin unbroken smear of sealant all round the touching faces and evenly bolt up.

leave to fully cure 12-24hr imo before splashing it with oil from starting the engine.
Click to expand...
Cheers Paul tiger seal is something I have already so I'll give that a go :)
 

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