• Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum

PollyMobiles Rebuild

OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cleaned impeller

2010 09 (114).JPG


the housing backface the compressor C-clip rests against is abit rough so gave it a wirebrushing

2010 09 (115).JPG


you see the two ports perpendicular to the oil feed/drain, does that mean this turbo can be watercooled?

wirebrushed the compressor housing till clean

2010 09 (117).JPG
2010 09 (118).JPG


cleaned the C-clip and filed the edges so it doesn't catch on anything

2010 09 (122).JPG


c-clip installed

2010 09 (123).JPG


cleaned the turbine housing. is this a garrett t2 turbine housing?

2010 09 (124).JPG
2010 09 (125).JPG


closeup of crack

2010 09 (126).JPG


i found the cheapest t2 housing is £150 on ebay. prob leave this for now, seems to be a common issue looking at other forums.

another tiny crack at the turbine housing vane

2010 09 (128).JPG


housing fitted

2010 09 (129).JPG


wastegate actuator cleaned n retapped

2010 09 (134).JPG
2010 09 (135).JPG


gtir elbow

2010 09 (137).JPG


thought i could remove the bolt on the elbow to fit the lambda but its proper seized on tight

2010 09 (139).JPG


overhauled turbo

2010 09 (140).JPG
2010 09 (141).JPG
 
Last edited:

baguete

Site Supporter
More close than ever (Y)

You will use that modified stock manifold or a proper custom made? That manifold seems so smal...
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
maybe. we'll see

doin all this cleaning, retapping overhauling is quite theraputic :) but tiring on my legs standing all night

a custom bent pipe turbo manifold would be nice but i'll keep the modified stock for now since its there and keeps the costs down.

reading in forums bout oil vs water cooled turbos, i'll just keep it the same oil cooled config for simplicity

once i move to turbo it'll mean i'll have to start using the higher octane v-power stuff yeah?
 

Guy

Has gone over to the oily side...
Club Member
Unless you really lower the compression ratio alot, I'd deffo use higher octane with a turbo setup. looking awesome btw :)!
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
fitted the spitfire HT leads this morning. no noticeable difference under normal driving

2010 09 (142).JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just have the right balance of motivation, vision, resources, knowledge and opportunity to make this dream possible

now why didn't i take the blue pill :p

still some way to go but all the hard expensive part of the turbo conversion is already done for me. just need to strip, clean, overhaul the existing bits, buy some extra minor bits, mod the cat into the exhaust fit it all into pollymobile and we're done.
 

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
[QUOTE
now why didn't i take the blue pill :p[/QUOTE]
oh shyte blue one? i took both and now i know i wasnt sposed too!
burn em out kid------gotta say by the looks of it your efforts an all,you deserve this "step up" thing
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
oh shyte blue one? i took both and now i know i wasnt sposed too!
burn em out kid------gotta say by the looks of it your efforts an all,you deserve this "step up" thing
hmm wonder what'd happen if neo had taken em both. maybe that's why he ended up at that subway station in matrix revolution between real & virtual world?

what step up?
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
you are very hard working :) just like me the laste time
nice job again
cheers.

things were previously pretty calm with work, car, home playing on ps3, up till i got this turbo oppurtunity and now i'm on full afterburn motivated by passion to complete this project :p

tis hard work coming home and can't wait to work on it but tires me out when i finish at midnight exhausted although its satisfying watching it progress. not gonna push myself cos there's no deadline anymore, just gradually work on getting things ready at my own pace till i feel its time.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
managed to get the bolt out the gtir elbow with some penetrating spray, blowtorch around the bolt and brute force withbreaker bar

2010 09 (143).JPG
2010 09 (144).JPG


retapped, the bolt sticks out too far to get coated with carbon n seize again so grinded it flat

2010 09 (145).JPG
2010 09 (146).JPG
2010 09 (147).JPG
2010 09 (148).JPG


cleaned n neatened the turbo drain plug adapter

2010 09 (154).JPG


wirebrushed the drain hose

2010 09 (149).JPG
2010 09 (151).JPG
2010 09 (152).JPG


wirebrished the oil feed

2010 09 (157).JPG


turbo sorted

2010 09 (158).JPG


ready for storage

2010 09 (160).JPG


cleaned all induction pipes n boxed. my spare parts shelf is getting full

2010 09 (167).JPG


to store the injectors i wanted to fit em onto the manifold then store to keep dust out of em so first remove the coolant return pipe

2010 09 (162).JPG


manifold out

2010 09 (163).JPG


fit injectors n stored

2010 09 (165).JPG


took gtir MAF apart, front plate was siliconed on

2010 09 (168).JPG


another screw that tried putting up a fight

2010 09 (169).JPG


maf sensor off, wirebrush the body

2010 09 (170).JPG


clean n assembled

2010 09 (173).JPG


took oil filter out, the oil is black, lack of service

2010 09 (174).JPG


cover off. kinda dry beneath but looks intact. alota crusty carbon coating inside the engine. could do with baguettes oven cleaner trick

2010 09 (175).JPG
2010 09 (176).JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just noticed summin interesting bout the IAV

with the clutch engaged, whenever ur travelling above 5mph and in gear, the ecu keeps the IAV open so it idles at 1300rpm

if either ur speed drops below 5mph or you pop into neutral, then the IAV closes and idles back down to 700rpm
 
two weeks on hols and i missed a lot. shame there is standard manifold with flange on it. it must be so restrictive. custom made would show some more bhp.
 

frank

Club Member
just noticed summin interesting bout the IAV

with the clutch engaged, whenever ur travelling above 5mph and in gear, the ecu keeps the IAV open so it idles at 1300rpm


if either ur speed drops below 5mph or you pop into neutral, then the IAV closes and idles back down to 700rpm
the neutral switch and speed sensor are fitted for a purpose eh paul (probably emissions eh ?)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
two weeks on hols and i missed a lot. shame there is standard manifold with flange on it. it must be so restrictive. custom made would show some more bhp.
yea its not ideal but the exit port of the stock manifold is no smaller than the entry port of the turbine housing so its not too bad
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the neutral switch and speed sensor are fitted for a purpose eh paul (probably emissions eh ?)
i'm guessing the iav opens the throttle abit in those situations in order to ensure the engine can run at idle rpm whilst overcoming the slight additional load of being in gear and driving the wheels such as during slow traffic jams. without the extra throttle opening via IAV the additional driving load under closed throttle would simply lower the rpm below 700rpm and more likely to stall
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cos i don't have an engine mount, i drained the oil like this

2010 09 (177).JPG


alternator bracket off

2010 09 (178).JPG


turbo oil feed adapter off

2010 09 (179).JPG


non-PAS auxilery belt tensioner off

2010 09 (180).JPG


waterpump off found this. but its just surface rust after wiping

2010 09 (181).JPG
2010 09 (183).JPG


access panel off. i tested cillit bang on the gunked access panel and it does nothing, may as well be plain water. instead i tried some persil detergent n boiling water and after some brush scrubbing its squeaky clean

2010 09 (184).JPG
2010 09 (198).JPG


before removing the cams i checked the valve clearances and wow they are as perfect as i can imagine:
min inlet gap= 0.25 min exhaust gap= 0.33
max inlet gap=0.35 max exhaust gap= 0.40

inlet 1: 0.279 exhaust 1: 0.356
inlet 2: 0.279 exhaust 2: 0.356
inlet 3: 0.305 exhaust 3: 0.356
inlet 4: 0.305 exhaust 4: 0.356
inlet 5: 0.356 exhaust 5: 0.356
inlet 6: 0.305 exhaust 6: 0.356
inlet 7: 0.305 exhaust 7: 0.356
inlet 8: 0.330 exhaust 8: 0.356

so i guess this engines condition has really done 30k as stated in ebay

cams off. looks perfect just needs cleaning

2010 09 (185).JPG


headbolts out

2010 09 (192).JPG


head off

2010 09 (188).JPG


perfect

2010 09 (189).JPG


looks gr8, no HG damage

2010 09 (190).JPG
2010 09 (193).JPG
2010 09 (191).JPG


sump off. maybe too much silicone sealant used

2010 09 (194).JPG
2010 09 (195).JPG


cranks fine

2010 09 (196).JPG


knocked the dipstick tube out

2010 09 (197).JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
were do i get g101, direct from em?

read on google that afew ppl use washing powder like daz or persil in a hot tub to clean their blocks before rebuilds. these detergents wont harm the cylinder walls or bearing surfaces right?
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
well i def won't be doin that much cleaning to warrant needing a gallon cans worth lol

washing powder it is. yea good hand cleaner, tried it at Sulurs when i helped with his engine, ain't half stings if you knocked ur knuckles or cuticles

ooh thanks so much for the link frank, really useful and interesting(Y)

here's some loom wiring diagrams for nats & non-nats system that may be of interest
 

Attachments

OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
currently debating wether to get a gripper lsd since i'll be overhauling this spare box but is quite expensive. so are my only options regards to LSD either to buy n fit a gripper lsd from matt and trying to find a rare rs5f31v box or are there other lsd boxes that could fit?

if i go with an lsd it'll probably be done during the turbo fitting stage where the entire engine/box/turbo/exh/etc will be swapped over in one whole go, saves time effort & money
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
had to take the crank pulley off so i put on the flywheel and jam it to the block with a bolt

2010 09 (199).JPG


dont have a pulley puller so made my own

2010 09 (200).JPG


timing chain cover off

2010 09 (202).JPG
2010 09 (204).JPG


timing chain out

2010 09 (205).JPG


remove the oil pressure sensor adapter plug

2010 09 (208).JPG


crank seal off

2010 09 (209).JPG


crankshaft cage removed, main bearings looks good

2010 09 (210).JPG
2010 09 (211).JPG
2010 09 (212).JPG


crankshaft off, bearings good

2010 09 (213).JPG
2010 09 (214).JPG
2010 09 (215).JPG


standard pistons out

2010 09 (216).JPG


finish removing bearing shells & crankcase vent filter off the block

2010 09 (218).JPG
2010 09 (220).JPG

2010 09 (219).JPG


i popped some bits in a hot tub of persil. after 2 washes they look new :) washing powder is magic

2010 09 (222).JPG


only one bolt has appeared seized since this overhaul. the head was already broken off leaving abit of stud but was hard to shift so grinded it flat and gonna drill it out

2010 09 (223).JPG
2010 09 (225).JPG


removed oil galley plug

2010 09 (226).JPG


tomorrow will swap the stock manifold onto the car for mot and then its bath time for the engine
 
Last edited:

baguete

Site Supporter
I didnt removed the oil gallery plug, but with all the oven cleaner inside, the water gone throught the oil gallerys and was clear, then dryed it all with an air compressor. That enine looks very dirty inside, but it will shine again... (Y)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
found this large steel tub, little rusty but gave a good scrub

2010 09 (227).JPG


lined a rubber mat to prevent scratching the HG face

2010 09 (228).JPG


5 buckets of water and 2 scoops of persil bio. hard scrubbing begins

2010 09 (229).JPG


block came out nice indeed, missed abit of the outside

2010 09 (230).JPG
2010 09 (231).JPG
2010 09 (232).JPG
2010 09 (233).JPG


grimey oily water

2010 09 (234).JPG


the rubber mat kept floating up when i was moving the block so i used a cloth instead

2010 09 (235).JPG


many scrubbing later the block is shiney, but worryingly i found these massive matt drop-like spots on the cylinder walls :eek: i can still see the honing marks and the surface is smooth but those drip spots are just matt.
i dunno if its the persil bio thats etched some layer or if its been there before, doesn't look good either way. any advice?

2010 09 (236).JPG
2010 09 (237).JPG
2010 09 (239).JPG
2010 09 (240).JPG


crankcase washed

2010 09 (241).JPG
2010 09 (242).JPG


retapped all holes

2010 09 (243).JPG


crankcase filter installed

2010 09 (244).JPG


to sort this seized bolt on the block i marked, drilled and retapped

2010 09 (245).JPG
2010 09 (247).JPG
2010 09 (248).JPG


now i'm retapping the headbolt threads in the block, all are fine except for one. felt the tap was getting tighter, which isn't normal. so i tried the tapered tap (normally used to start the threads) and it felt smooth n sharp and feel it slightly cutting. ok so my other non-tapered tap must be worn. another issue is that the tap can only reach half the threads, so the bolt can only go down halfway before getting stuck on the other half of the dirty threads.

i either buy a new longer M8 tap or maybe need to take it down to machiners to retap that hole cos i feel i may mess it up or its cross threaded

right, overall this block has some odd cylinder wall spots and one of the headbolt holes needs retapping, it may become weakened. i'm not feeling too confident with it mechanically at the mo even though it took loadsa elbow grease to get it all shiney n clean.

gut feeling tells me to use the block (and head?) in the current car instead.

actually maybe i should just keep the current engine & gearbox intact on the car (since its prob in better form and both are similar) and simply bolt the new turbo bits & sump onto it?

whats ur thought?
 
Last edited:

frank

Club Member
you worry too much paul :p if the headbolts came out ok they,ll go back ok, (i always dip mine in oil, to get max torque) and those stains wont be a problem fwn
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i just prefer things to be perfect to reduce chances of mechanical failure, especially with this much power now.

ok after much thinking, i've decided to keep the existing engine & gearbox left untouched on the car and simply bolt the new turbo stuff into it. will be cheaper and faster.

but first i had to figure how to remove the rusted oil feed plug on the head that i previously left cos of fear the tiny allen key'll round off.

i stuck on an allen socket and gradually applied torque but experience tells me this plug's not gonna budge with such tiny weak allen head and will round up, so i tried it again with some mole grips on the side, same thing.

so now i tried my bolt extracter tool since it cuts into and grips onto the outside of the exposed plug and walla it releases

2010 09 (249).JPG


ok with that verified, that's the plan then
 
Last edited:

baguete

Site Supporter
I didnt even retapped the threads, i just got the oven cleaner inside, cleaned with water pressure and then dry it with an air compressor (takes a while to get it dry). And some oil on the head bolts threads should be enough.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
that particular bolt was abit stiff during removal coupled with signs of little rust on threads, hence retapping it.

gonna swock stock manifold over tday
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
janspeed manifold off

2010 09 (253).JPG


janspeeds tiny 1.65" pipes vs custom 2.25" turbo downpipe

2010 09 (254).JPG


turbo mani vs stock mani

2010 09 (255).JPG


while manifolds off i may as well test fit the turbo and theres 3 issues already

2010 09 (256).JPG


first the turbo inlet is blocked by the radiator fan. second the turbo outlet is again block by the edge of the radiator

2010 09 (257).JPG
2010 09 (258).JPG


and third is this, cant be helpin with flow

2010 09 (259).JPG


so i have couple of choices, of which are not cheap

1: keep current turbo exhaust but buy a smaller radiator with smaller fan and welded into new location which may compromise cooling efficiency
1b: cut a section off the radiator to barely clear the turbo outlet port and fit smaller fan
1c: move the lower rad support over abit by 1cm just enough to clear the turbo and bend a new top support (prob the easiest cheapest option)

2: get someone to fabricate a new turbo manifold and modify the downpipe to relocate & reorientate the turbo
2b: buy a cast hks turbo manifold and ask someone to modify the downpipe
2c: get a mig welder, learn how to weld proper and make my own (may take awhile)

what would be the most cost effective choice?

stock manifold ready for mot

2010 09 (260).JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i think i'll try option 1c first. theres a 15mm gap between the rad and front panel so i'll take off the lower rad support, pop rivet it to the right, bend a new upper support bracket ( maybe cut & rivet the latch bracket onto it as well) and so check things runs ok before investing in an expensive custom exhaust job.

another issue i spotted is how to feed a filter into the turbo cos there's abso no space with the rad fan & coolant pipes in the way. dan mentioned kristian may have tried stretching some tights over the turbo but sounds like a bad idea
 

frank

Club Member
i would personally make a new (alloy or stainless) slam panel paul, and bring the top of the rad forward an inch or two, and then fit a hose and cone filter :grinning:
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i would personally make a new (alloy or stainless) slam panel paul, and bring the top of the rad forward an inch or two, and then fit a hose and cone filter :grinning:
yep will be making new slam panel and move rad across but dunno if i could tilt the rad top forward abit cos the intercooler'll be in front and dunno if a hose & cone filter'll fit cos of the hoses n battery, although i may consider moving the battery to the boot which may free up space for the cone filter
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
rang local machine shop bout fixing me headbolt thread and he says the threads on alloy blocks are prob treated and if the threads are breaking abit it'll prob need helicoiling and says £45, forget that!

rang cromwell tool shop for an m10x0.5 long shank second tap and so got this beauty for £21, vs the old shorter worn tap

2010 09 (261).JPG


washed the pistons nice n clean

2010 09 (262).JPG
2010 09 (263).JPG


fitted piston 1

2010 09 (264).JPG


and some bits

2010 09 (265).JPG


MOT tomorrow at 8:30
 
Last edited:

baguete

Site Supporter
Looks cleaner than my pistons (Y)

You will re-use the crank/rod bearings? I re-used them, they looked ok...
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Looks cleaner than my pistons (Y)

You will re-use the crank/rod bearings? I re-used them, they looked ok...
def reuse em, looked fine.

thats just one piston and took couple hour to soak n scrub, twas about as much as i could take for the night.

after soaking, the scrubber couldn't get off some bits of black carbon on the piston but i could just scrape it off with my nails and then clean with wd40/scorch pad. the dark conrod and underneath the piston is real tricky to scrub clean so just left it
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
car passed MOT with flying colours:grinning:
first time my micra's ever pass straight through without any issue

CO reading was 0.13% at fast idle and 0.07% at idle

back home i swapped the nistune boards over to grab the turbo map and here's the results

Fuel Maps (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

1 stock fuel.jpg
2 janspeed fuel.jpg
3 turbo kit fuel.jpg


Fuel Map Graphs (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

1 stock fuel graph.jpg
2 janspeed fuel graph.jpg
3 turbo kit fuel graph.jpg


Ign Maps (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

1 stock ign.jpg
2 janspeed ign.jpg
3 turbo kit ign.jpg


Ign Map Graphs (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

1 stock ign graph.jpg
2 janspeed ign graph.jpg
3 turbo kit ign graph.jpg


VE Maps (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

1 stock ve.jpg
2 janspeed ve.jpg
3 turbo kit ve.jpg


VE Map Graphs (stock/janspeed setup/turbo setup)

1 stock ve graph.jpg
2 janspeed ve graph.jpg
3 turbo kit ve graph.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cleaned & fitted the remaining pistons

2010 09 (266).JPG
2010 09 (267).JPG
2010 09 (268).JPG


left the crank in a tub of hot persil to soak and look what happened :( looked like the detergent powder just builds on the top surface and etches it slightly so its def not recommended for polished bearing surfaces

2010 09 (269).JPG
2010 09 (270).JPG
2010 09 (271).JPG


install crank

2010 09 (273).JPG
2010 09 (274).JPG


and timing chain

2010 09 (275).JPG

2010 09 (276).JPG
 
Last edited:
Top