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frank said:
sounds like a vacuum one mate, and there,s no pipe fitting on the alloy compressor housing eh, my 1st two tubby,s were vacuum ones tom, i just fitted a + pressure actuator and repositioned the arm (i had to move the arm on most of mine, after clocking the turbo anyway) :)
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No theres no pipe fitting on the compresser housing mate, so must be a vacuum one?
Ill have a look for a positive pressure actuator on ebay
By repositioning the arm you mean the one on the compresser housing? Or the actual current w/g arm?
 
SirChris said:
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Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
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Love you chris :)
 
MicraPRO said:
No theres no pipe fitting on the compresser housing mate, so must be a vacuum one?
Ill have a look for a positive pressure actuator on ebay
By repositioning the arm you mean the one on the compresser housing? Or the actual current w/g arm?
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the w/g arm mate, wait till you have positioned where you want the w/g facing, and the compressor outlet facing, then decide where you want to fit the actuator etc
everything ends up being custom made, thats why everybody has loads of leftover intercooler fittings and pipes :D
 
frank said:
the w/g arm mate, wait till you have positioned where you want the w/g facing, and the compressor outlet facing, then decide where you want to fit the actuator etc
everything ends up being custom made, thats why everybody has loads of leftover intercooler fittings and pipes :D
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I cant change the way the w/g faces can I? Its all part of 'A' the manifold and 'B' the compresser housing there not bolted there forged into the housings.
Think ill be going for a high set up like Mr Chris :)
But on that note ill make up some manifold drawings.
Been looking at intercoolers on ebay guessing one for a starlet will be about the right size. Piping ill sort last once I know where im fitting everything.
 
the core is the only bit that HAS to be in a certain position eh tom (oil feed @ 12 o,clock, and oil return @ 6 o,clock) and the turbine and compressor housings can both be rotated to anywhere you want :)
and i cut and welded the w/g arm to the angle that i wanted (last job)
 
frank said:
the core is the only bit that HAS to be in a certain position eh tom (oil feed @ 12 o,clock, and oil return @ 6 o,clock) and the turbine and compressor housings can both be rotated to anywhere you want :)
and i cut and welded the w/g arm to the angle that i wanted (last job)
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Im with you on that one, like I said ill be looking at having the same style as chris seems the turbo would be happier that way in its current form.
And the core only needs rotating about 10 degrees in this position.
If I were to follow the way you have mounted its almost 45 degrees.
I dont really want to cut the compresser arm :( its pretty haha :p
 
MicraPRO said:
Im with you on that one, like I said ill be looking at having the same style as chris seems the turbo would be happier that way in its current form.
And the core only needs rotating about 10 degrees in this position.
If I were to follow the way you have mounted its almost 45 degrees.
I dont really want to cut the compresser arm :( its pretty haha :p
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the w/g arm is 180 deg out if its a vacuum operated one anyway tho tom :)
 
WG valve: first looking at which way the valve open/closes,
- if the arm rotates towards the actuator to close the port, it requires the rod to be sprung to "pull" the valve shut and for +ve pressure to "push" the diaphram against the WG spring and then push the WG valve open.
- if the arm rotate away from the actuator to close the port, it requires the rod to be sprung to "push" the valve shut and for +ve pressure to "pull" the diaphram against the WG spring before pulling the WG valve open.

WG Actuator: now we know which way the rod should be sprung to keep the valve shut, lets find which way the actuator is sprung.
the actuator has a spring which pushes the rod either fully in or fully out.
unhook it off the WG and check if the rod can be pulled or pushed.
- if the spring naturally pulls the rod inwards and you can only pull the rod away from the actuator against the spring to get any travel, its sprung to "pull" away from the WG arm.
- if the spring naturally pushes the rod outwards and you can only push the rod towards the actuator against the spring to get any travel, its sprung to "push" towards the WG arm.

next we find how the +ve pressure will act on the diaphram. apply +ve pressure to the actuator hole (via pump or mouth) and watch which way the rod travels.
if the rod doesn't move, it's vacuum operated.
if the rod moves with +ve pressure, it's pressure actuated.

if it moves outwards away from the actuator, then +ve pressure will push the rod towards the WG arm..
if it moves inwards towards the actuator, the +ve pressure will pull the rod away from the WG arm.

Summary
for a WG valve that closes by rotating "towards" the actuator, you need the actuator to be sprung to "pull" it shut below boost, and "push" it open above boost.
for a WG valve that closes by rotating "away" from the actuator, you need the actuator to be sprung to "push" it shut below boost, and "pull" it open above boost.

with the right type of actuator matching the WG operation, the WG arm should be fully shut under zero psi and have 1-2mm of preload keeping it shut.
preload is set by first unhooking the rod, adjust the rod length till the rod hole aligns with the pin on the closed WG arm.
then apply 1-2 more turns to close the valve abit harder.

the fact that you mention the WG valve was naturally sprung "open" and you can "push" the rod in further towards the actuator which also pushes air out of the actuator port sounds like the WG arm has to be in tension to close BUT the actuator is sprung to push towards the arm and is vacuum operated. I think frank had the same type of actuator from a diesel and caused alot of issues and confusion.

now with this wrong actuator, if you simply just tighten the rod to close the WG below boost, what happens is that boost builds upto the rated pressure fine but once above the rated level the +ve pressure tries to push the actuator and WG valve open but it can't because the actuator is sprung to "push" and is already resting at its max extension travel. this means the valve can't open, no boost control and it simply over-boosts dramatically.

what you need to do is source an actuator from a petrol turbo that's sprung to rest under "pull" tension and "pushes" the rod under +ve pressure
 
yes the tubby i used at mallory was a diesel one eh paul, and on the vauxhall one i had originally i was trying to blow into it :rolleyes: and the boost was just getting higher and higher !
 
the casted actuator mount on the compressor isn't the only point to position the actuator.
to have abit more freedom in where to point the compressor outlet relative to the turbine & WG housing, you can simply make a metal bracket to support the actuator after adjusting the compressor and perhaps cut the old cast mounting off if it fouls the engine block.

that vacuum actuator is abit wide btw so could affect layout but since it needs to be changed to a pressure actuated type, try to get a reasonably compact actuator and rated to the level of boost ur after.
 
depending on design of the manifold and clearances from the alternator & radiator, as well as pointing the manifold flange vertically straight up/down, perhaps it can be designed to point forwards (turbo orientation still mounted level of course)

17c.jpg


or orientate the turbo pointing front to back like franks.
 
there are many many combinations to choose from.
up to you to choose the one that offers the right balance of effort, performance, reliability, cost etc
 
So to make sure im getting the correct signals from the engine, new temp sensors arrived today :)
Along with a much needed Valve cover gastet as mine is leaking oil all down the block and over the gear box... looks pleasant.
1396627900234.jpg

You dont need a picture really but because im nice :)
 
h701micra said:
Was interesting anyway
Don't know another k11 with vectra sideskirts ;)

It just gets better

That's a point Scott.. update your turbo jobby
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Got loads of updates for this weekend, cage, seats, more stripping. Everyone it trying to convert me to GA16! Even Chris says its a better way to go. Im already in a position where I can sell the stuff I got and break even. I want to build it correct first time even if it means a ga16 conversion with a turbo...
 
I wish I'd said nothing about the ga16 :/... they'll be everywhere soon

How much was the rocker seal Tom if you dont mind me asking?
 
h701micra said:
I wish I'd said nothing about the ga16 :/... they'll be everywhere soon

How much was the rocker seal Tom if you dont mind me asking?
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Must admit the ga16 is irritating me haha I think they will too...

The Rocker seal was from ebay and was £9.03 lol then ill pressure washer her to get rid of the slime over the block.
 
MicraPRO said:
Must admit the ga16 is irritating me haha I think they will too...

The Rocker seal was from ebay and was £9.03 lol then ill pressure washer her to get rid of the slime over the block.
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My own fault for pointing them out I guess... just means I'll suffer now in spares costs.

Cheers buddy
I've always been wary of pressure washing my engines
 
h701micra said:
My own fault for pointing them out I guess... just means I'll suffer now in spares costs.

Cheers buddy
I've always been wary of pressure washing my engines
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Haha h701 caused this...
As long as the engines running and your not spraying in silly places its ok...
Spray all the oily bits with degreaser first let it sink in wash off then go for a drive :)
 
MicraPRO said:
Haha h701 caused this...
As long as the engines running and your not spraying in silly places its ok...
Spray all the oily bits with degreaser first let it sink in wash off then go for a drive :)
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Yea great. Just what I didn't want :p

I shall give it a go :)
 

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