baguete's Micra K11 1.3 SR

[baguete]

Some more things done on the engine. The HG was glued to the block, its all dirty on the inside, but the crank and the bearings are ok. Pistons rings look ok, just the oil control rings looks a bit clogged, but nothing special. Will take more pics tomorrow.

 

[pollyp]

ah nice. memories of when i overhauled mine.

i see some burn marks on the back of cyl1 gasket ring, ya think thats where it failed?

 

[baguete]

ah nice. memories of when i overhauled mine.

i see some burn marks on the back of cyl1 gasket ring, ya think thats where it failed?

Most probably yes. Now the previous owner says that the HG failure was repaired, but the HG its ####ed up, and the head has its water circuit full of rust (and the block too), if a machine shop had it to repair, it would be cleaner, right? :down:

Anyway, i will repair it and get it running good... BTW, i will use an HG similar to the one you used on the other car, the one you sold to a girl, its still holding?

 

[peposhi]

Baguette, you're doing awesome job!!! Admirations!
(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)(Y)

 

[pollyp]

Most probably yes. Now the previous owner says that the HG failure was repaired, but the HG its ####ed up, and the head has its water circuit full of rust (and the block too), if a machine shop had it to repair, it would be cleaner, right? :down:

Anyway, i will repair it and get it running good... BTW, i will use an HG similar to the one you used on the other car, the one you sold to a girl, its still holding?

i wonder if it previously overheated, crushed the HG, blowing exhaust into the coolant and resulted in lotsa fumes through the coolant system or prev owner didn't change the degraded coolant and so rusting the internals?

as far as i know the £50 graphite gasket i just fitted on pollymobile 1 is still working, tis softer and more forgiving for roughly finished surfaces thats not skimmed, but i prefer the £80 nissan gasket which is tougher and doesn't bond to the head/block or break apart next time the head is taken off so don't have to end up scraping the old melted graphite off the surface

 

[baguete]

I changed the coolant 3 times in 2 months, if there was something wrong, was done previously... And thats why i decided to overhaul the engine, it wasnt right first time i drove it...

Thanks about the HG feedback, i will try it, if it blows, i can always go to Nissan and buy one... lol

 

[baguete]

Cleaned some more parts:

 

[MrMigs08]

Doing an awesome job of cleaning it up baguete, keep it up man and it'l be running like brand new in no time.

 

[frank]

have you measured the ring-gaps with them inserted in the bore mate ?

 

[pollyp]

wow how'd ya get it that clean?

 

[baguete]

Doing an awesome job of cleaning it up baguete, keep it up man and it'l be running like brand new in no time.

Thanks (Y)

have you measured the ring-gaps with them inserted in the bore mate ?

Not yet mate, need to clean the engine block a little better. I inserted them again on the pistons to check the ring-to-piston gap, seems ok, will check the ring-gap soon. Thanks for the tip. (Y)

 

[baguete]

wow how'd ya get it that clean?

Im using some oven cleaner, called "Mistolin", made by a portuguese company, dont think you can get it there, but there must be something similar on UK. I think any oven cleaner will do...

 

[baguete]

Head already cleaned:

 

[pollyp]

gr8 tip i must def try that on me new engine, turbo, gearbox etc.
used to think getting the oily brown stain off the block n head was near impossible and loada elbow grease with just degreaser and brake cleaner but with oven cleaner there it looks like a new or refurbed part

its safe to use on bearing surfaces and cylinders right?

 

[baguete]

gr8 tip i must def try that on me new engine, turbo, gearbox etc.
used to think getting the oily brown stain off the block n head was near impossible and loada elbow grease with just degreaser and brake cleaner but with oven cleaner there it looks like a new or refurbed part

its safe to use on bearing surfaces and cylinders right?

Yes, these oil stains gets off the parts easily. I dont think it harms the surfaces, at least i dont see anything wrong, and some friends also used it on their rebuilds and nothing wrong happened, it only reacts with the greasy stuff, not the metal.

 

[baguete]

Almost all parts cleaned up:

 

[pollyp]

Droolll, argh perfection, tis just too much lol:wow:

 

[baguete]

Droolll, argh perfection, tis just too much lol:wow:

Thanks mate

"When you do it, do it right" lol

Tomorow i will buy a kit to settle the valves just right, clean the block a little better and check the piston rings end gap. And i will use some alluminium cleaner, it says that it reacts on contact with the metal surface and needs to be washed with water right away, i think i will mix some water so its not so concentrated. But the water passages on the head and the block needs to be cleaned, it has so much rust "glued" to it...

 

[baguete]

BTW, is it normal to put some oil on the oil pump, drive it manualy, and some oil goes throught the middle section where you drive it? Its just a bit of oil, not a big quantity, just enough to "wet" that area...

 

[r-reg-sr]

amazing what you peoples are doing
real envy over hear

 

[frank]

BTW, is it normal to put some oil on the oil pump, drive it manualy, and some oil goes throught the middle section where you drive it? Its just a bit of oil, not a big quantity, just enough to "wet" that area...

the gap in the shaft will be closed when the pulley is bolted up tho wont it mate ?

 

[baguete]

the gap in the shaft will be closed when the pulley is bolted up tho wont it mate ?

Maybe youre right, with it on the block and the pulley bolted, it will have less gap. But i will check the other oil pump i have (better condition), if it does the same thing, i will use the one i cleaned earlier (from this engine im rebuilding), otherwise i will use the other i have.

 

[baguete]

Today i grinded the valves, cleaned the block, checked the piston rings end gap (2nd compression ring on 2nd and 4th cylinders are near the limit, i will check if i have some bigger ones) and the water channels on the head are clean, on the block i couldnt get it clean.

Block already cleaned:

Head after grinding the valves and cleaning the water channels:

Valves already grinded:

Numbered and oiled ready to store them:

Here the valve grinding kit and the piston ring compressor (helps big time):

 

[frank]

what about the de-glazing of the bores baguete ? (very important to get the right finish eh)

 

[baguete]

what about the de-glazing of the bores baguete ? (very important to get the right finish eh)

I thought doing it, but then i was reading this article and thinked twice:

http://www.angelfire.com/biz/snwvlly/bikes/dnthone.htm

I even bought a Cylinder Hone Tool, but i will not use it...

BTW, the engine was drinking oil because of defective valve seals on the intake side, on cylinders #1, #3 and #4.

 

[frank]

I thought doing it, but then i was reading this article and thinked twice:

http://www.angelfire.com/biz/snwvlly/bikes/dnthone.htm

I even bought a Cylinder Hone Tool, but i will not use it...

BTW, the engine was drinking oil because of defective valve seals on the intake side, on cylinders #1, #3 and #4.

i dont buy that personally mate fwn imo you will end up with an engine that drinks more oil than before, and smoke on startup (tho i stand to be corrected :grinning

 

[baguete]

i dont buy that personally mate fwn imo you will end up with an engine that drinks more oil than before, and smoke on startup (tho i stand to be corrected :grinning

I want to test it, lest see if its better or worse... lol

 

[pollyp]

Im using some oven cleaner, called "Mistolin", made by a portuguese company, dont think you can get it there, but there must be something similar on UK. I think any oven cleaner will do...

just googled bout using oven cleaner on alu engines and ppl say it takes off any anodised coating then eats/pits/darkens the alu surface cos its caustic soda?

 

[frank]

just googled bout using oven cleaner on alu engines and ppl say it takes off any anodised coating then eats/pits/darkens the alu surface cos its caustic soda?

and you have to wear rubber gloves too eh, but i doubt if it does any harm as long as you wash it off soon after use

 

[pollyp]

will them yellow domestic gloves do? no fluffy cuff included

sister said try the weaker cheapo supermarket brands first then the more ££ branded if needed

 

[baguete]

Yes, try those cheapo ones first. And i dilute it on a proportion of 1 part of oven cleaner to 3 parts of water, does the same thing and lasts much longer.

 

[baguete]

Started to assemble the engine:

 

[Guy]

Looking awesome that is ! Be careful with caustic, it eats ally - wash it off as soon as it's dissolved the gunk.

 

[pollyp]

got some cillit bang oil & grease remover. will try on some oily bits when i get round to taking the turbo engine apart.

 

[baguete]

Looking awesome that is ! Be careful with caustic, it eats ally - wash it off as soon as it's dissolved the gunk.

Thanks (Y)

got some cillit bang oil & grease remover. will try on some oily bits when i get round to taking the turbo engine apart.

Yeah, Cillit Bang should work also. But why will you strip the turbo engine? Just to check his condition?

 

[baguete]

Block already assembled, just need a valve spring compressor to assemble the head, ordered one on last week, and still not arrived...

 

[frank]

lookin good mate :grinning:
i find compressors too fiddly tho, and prefer to fit the collets into the retainer first and hold my thumb down and push the spring down by hand
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=16928&stc=1&d=1284588266

 

[baguete]

lookin good mate :grinning:
i find compressors too fiddly tho, and prefer to fit the collets into the retainer first and hold my thumb down and push the spring down by hand
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=16928&stc=1&d=1284588266

I will wait for it one more day, but i cant wait too long as i want the engine running until friday... :down:

I will try your method (Y)

 

[pollyp]

Yeah, Cillit Bang should work also. But why will you strip the turbo engine? Just to check his condition?

yea to check its condition, give it a good clean like urs but prob won't be as good so that its a nice ready replacement engine, and see if the internals are the same stock bits as on my current engine = i can leave the current engine in place and bolt the turbo, belt tensioner, oil feed and turbo sump straight onto it = no crane hire

 

[baguete]

yea to check its condition, give it a good clean like urs but prob won't be as good so that its a nice ready replacement engine, and see if the internals are the same stock bits as on my current engine = i can leave the current engine in place and bolt the turbo, belt tensioner, oil feed and turbo sump straight onto it = no crane hire

That would be the best, and if anything happens to your engine, you will have a replacement engine to go in on one day only (Y)

 

[pollyp]

yep hopefully only as a last resort if the engine's pushed too far.
spare gearbox too incase either the clutch is too grippy or the box can't withstand the sustained hp or i'm doing summin daft like full load lauches.

 

[baguete]

yep hopefully only as a last resort if the engine's pushed too far.
spare gearbox too incase either the clutch is too grippy or the box can't withstand the sustained hp or i'm doing summin daft like full load lauches.

Maybe GA16 G/B with hybrid shafts? http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/14-Fitting-200mm-clutch

 

[baguete]

Almost ready:

 

[pollyp]

could just about eat off that:grinning:

 

[baguete]

Engine ready:

 

[pollyp]

perfect job

i'm in process of cleaning mine now.

just tried cleaning some spockets, bracket, n tensioners with hot water & persil and wow that stuff is magic. clean metal.

i think ur block just needs a spray of silver to finish it off

 

[ashley sw]

that engine is pretty clean there

 

[baguete]

perfect job

i'm in process of cleaning mine now.

just tried cleaning some spockets, bracket, n tensioners with hot water & persil and wow that stuff is magic. clean metal.

i think ur block just needs a spray of silver to finish it off

Good news, your new engine will be very nice (Y)

I will not paint the block, i wanted to spent as little as possible on this rebuild, as i dont have that "feeling" for this engine. And i used it as a test for the major rebuild i will make for the Supercharged engine (the auto block i have).

that engine is pretty clean there

Thanks (Y)

 

[pollyp]

gotcha

 

[baguete]

Engine and Gearbox in place: