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SuperLS's K11 1.3 SR Blog

superls

K10 Tuner
All

as some of you may know the K10 'SuperLS' is soon to be no more, a combination of needs tonnes of work doing, getting a bit bored and a mint bodywise K11 1.3 SR coming available for £250 requiring a new x-member, tipped the scales.

anyway, not got no real pics of the car, just a bit of a hello to the K11 crew, a bit of an update and my future plans.

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got the car tuesday the 27th april 2009, debated with my brother who was going to have it, i won that on, haha.

The car bodywise is mint, only 1 small bubble of rust on the rear drivers arch and a stone chip thats gone rusty on the bonnet,
however the car needed work, it was last servived mid 2009, so its due, the front x-member and both sills at the rear had, had advisaries on the current mot, the mot runs out at the end of august with the tax, but i thought id get the work done sooner rather than later.

The car has the original SR alloys on with the standard 175/60/13 tyres, all in good nich with only 1 being kirb'd.

Its done a genuine 75k miles

The car is also a real nice dark metalic green, sort of like british racing green, not seen many like it.

anyways, i got the car late tuesday, stripped the front bumper and lights etc wednesday after work, called at the local motor factors after work for a front x-member thursday, i was surprised at it only being £21.39, had friday off of work and fited it then.

not got any in progress pics im afraid, just a couple of the car with no member on and a couple of the rusy member

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as you can see it was a little past it.

after that was done i proceeded to look at the sills, id looked at them when i went to buy the car, and there were no holes but they were all bubbled up under the paint, i was keeping my fingeres crossed that i could flappy disk the paint off, rust treat and repaint, but as it turned out i couldnt, both had rotted through from about 6 inches from the end for about 12 inches, so i cut all the badness out, surprising to me was the sill lip was still intact and was not rottern at all, replaced the rot with a repair patch, made it look tidy, masked just inder the radius and painted in smooth hammerite black, should be good for the rest of the cars life.
again no in progress pics or even any pics but ill be sure to grab a few at some point.

once i had finished the welding, i wire brushed and undersealed under all the arches and behind all the sills and anywhere rust might want to appear in the future, i then put the car back together, bumper back on etc.

whilst it was raining and i couldnt be outside, i decided to 'chuck' a spare cg13 flywheel i had and see about lightening it, below are a couple of pics of just how heave it WAS,

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neadless to say it wasnt that heavy for long, ive still not finished it yet but will let you know how heavy it is after, im just going to turn it down parallel to the ring gear, but not drill any holes in it like my cg10 one as there isnt much room as the clutch is bigger.

future plans are:

finish the light fly and fit it, along with a brand new luk clutch, the old ones is still ok, but at 75k id guess at it being the original as theres no sign of the gearbox being taken off, also while the gearbox is off the replace the fly it would be rude not to treat it to a new clutch kit.

finish the banded steelies i was going to fit to the k10 and fit them to the k11, but int he mean time i want to space the 13" alloys out by around 25mm.

fit the lowering springs and shocks i bought off here.

have the rear 3 windows tinted

remove the centre cat, the one on theres knackered and blowing, im going to replace it with a silancer.

fit a 'fatneck' ( (c) frank, lol ) manifold

replace the rear section of the exhaust as its blowing

fit a pices of 3 inch stainless pipe to the backbox to make it look better from the back.

give it a service

degrease the engine bay to spruce it up a bit.

give it a good wash and polish as its been parked under a tree.

think thats about it for now.

cheers scott
 
update on the flywheel, has a bit of time to kill last evening

ill let the pics do the talking.

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weight before 19.25 lb

19.25 / 2.2 = 8.75kg

weight after 10.25 lb

10.25 / 2.2 = 4.65kg

so a reduction of 4.1kg, or almost half the weight, as above im not going to go mad and drill tonnes of holes in it as i think its not needed.
 
1/2 the weight scott but removed from the outer periphery eh (so probably 1/4 of the momentum/inertia)
i bet you end up machining some more off lol (a 2 or 3mm undercut on both sides) :wasntme:
 
ha, i was tempted frank, i was tempted to mak it holy too, but i dont have a 1.3 clutch to hand to see where i can and cant drill, i may undercut the rear of it, i aim'd for a 4kg wheel before i started so ive not finished yet, watch this space
more mods soon
 
yes it was saved from the scrappers im afraid, the guy said if i wouldnt have had it he was probably going to scrap it as he couldnt be bothered messing about for a couple of hundred pounds, and scrappers around here are giving £150 for small cars.

anyways bit of an update.

gone with the secondary cat, and welcome a frankspeed (tm) manifold.

fixed my heater resistor card which i only realised didnt work on friday.

and i had half hour spare friday night so shaved a few thou off the flywheel

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3mm undercut on back side

new weight 8.25lb
8.25/2.2 = 3.75 kg

great, im leaving it at that ive broken the 4kg barrier, im happy.
 
i must admit, i didnt like the colour all that much at first but in the fortnight ive owned it, its grown on me, looks ace when its been washed and polished

done a bit of 'fettling' today, the front wipers wernt working properly, they wernt returning when used, they were stopping as soon as the stalk was set to the off position, i suspected the slip ring in the motor, but upon futher investigation i found a dry joint inside the wiper control box.

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after reading NEX's guide on a horizontal wiper i was inspired to have a go

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addmitadly i didnt follow NEX's guide i did it a different way and imo an easier way, but eact to there own i guess

enjoy
 

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@1.3gx, sorry mate, there's already dibs on the car, lol. but IF i ever get rid, and it falls through ill let you know

@ alexzaki, there is one up, a member nex did it, but i found his way to be the wrong way, ill be doing my brothers at some point in the near future, so ill do one then, this being the first one, and not knowing how it would turn out, unfortunately i didnt take any pics.
 
The "one" that is up is for members...im not....im just a user on this forum :) Will be great, when you'll do the other Micra to take some shots....appreciate it :)

Thanks,
Alex
 
ok mate, i will do, its fairly easy, just better to explain it with pics than typing.

basically you have to turn the gear around inside, its only a 15-20 min job
 
Looks good matey! Its amazing how much metal you can physically take of. I need to get my arse into gear and get mine done sometime soon!

Good work (Y)
 
tiny weeny update

ordered a flyeyes kit back end of last week, i was a bit sceptical when buying it but i thought what the hell its only £20 whats the worst that can happen.

well when i got home from work i was greeted with a tube from flyeyes, great 2 rolls of the dark black they sell, i wasnt going to fit it today cos i wanted to wash and polish the car first, but after 5 mins of umming and arring i couldnt resist. anyways what you reckon?

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looks ok matey but you will have to make sure you dont get pulled by the police coz they will say about it dosent show the beam as it should but all in all you have a rare car there
 
looks ok matey but you will have to make sure you dont get pulled by the police coz they will say about it dosent show the beam as it should but all in all you have a rare car there

danny, flykit is MOT approved, that means the car is road worthy
superls: you car looks awesome!
 
:O that looks awesome buddy, can someone please do a photoshop of mine with the dark black tint and red tint? would be eternally grateful :)
 
update,

the flywheel featured above will never be fitted to my car :(, mainly as its now in germany fitted to a 1.3 turbo :grinning:
however i have a very special flywheel up my sleeve, aiming for around 2.5kg, utalising an oddball 3 piece one i took in as exchange a couple of weeks ago.

been having a little tinkering time with the weather being horrible tonight, comments please, mark im counting on you

sorry for crappy dark pics, it was going dark afterall.

just an idea ive been tossing around for a while, the wheel below is actually the 7inch one in my earlier thread, but ive adjusted the offset so resemble a 8 inch wheel with an et0 (zero offset)

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realising this was a bit more poke than i was after, back in the press, re-adjusted to give et20

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i think thats a bit more like it, when my 75mm metal comes ill actually band a wheel to 8 inch and blow a tyre on an re-evaluate then,

not too sure which tyre to go for yet, im having 7 inch on the front with 165/55/13 tyres,but dont know which tyre for the 8 inch, possibly 175/60/13. not sure yet.

superls
 
Just a quick question concerning the Flywheel (I'm not going to do it), wouldn't you have to drill the holes equally so it's balanced? ie like the weight on a steelie/alloy to balance that out?
 
Just a quick question concerning the Flywheel (I'm not going to do it), wouldn't you have to drill the holes equally so it's balanced? ie like the weight on a steelie/alloy to balance that out?

the flywheel picuterd above was not ballanced at that point, it had just been machined, it was ballanced after that, and yes holes are drilled to ballance it.
 
I still love those banded steelies and you only live up the m1 from me are you sure you dont fancy doing mine ;) I pay you longtime lol

Good progress and loving the blog mate, flywheel is possibly my next job as ive got a feeling my whiny gearbox and thrust bearing are not far away from saying bye bye lol
 
I still love those banded steelies and you only live up the m1 from me are you sure you dont fancy doing mine ;) I pay you longtime lol

Good progress and loving the blog mate, flywheel is possibly my next job as ive got a feeling my whiny gearbox and thrust bearing are not far away from saying bye bye lol

lets see how mine go first, eh, my 75mm metal still hasnt turned up yet so 8" are still imagination at the moment
 
not alot happened simce last update.

scrapped the self banded wheels, for 1 reason and another, which i dont really want to get into, but lets say after doing 1 'properly' i was fed up of welding and grinding. lol

made myself a direct replacement exhaust manifold

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details of build in >>this<< thread

also made a aluminium flywheel, weighing in at a rather heavy 3kg, i was aiming for 2.5kg but the friction ring in the middle is best part of 1kg. (btw stock cg13 flywheel is 8+kg

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no real updases as such, and no pics :(

got my 13x7 carpi rims all redrilled ready to go on in the spring (not risking them in this bad weather) in the meantime ive got the stock 13 inch sr rims on, refurbished in matt black, with brand new falken 175 70 30 all weather tyres on, sits alot better and its calmed it down on the motorway a bit too, ive also invested in to temporary wheel spacers, 32mm on the back and 10 on the front.

but need to make a shortened panard rod as with me my dad and my step mum my drivers wheel catches the arch on a bump, anyone know how much shorter it needs to be with 30-40mm lowering???

no other ont he car mods.

still not finished my 2.5kg light flywheel :(

started a couple of 'bad weather' projects tho, inspired from ebb's thread im weld filling a head and porting/polishing it, im also building a custom stainless steel plenum chamber inlet manifold, i just need to measure the volume of the stock inlet manifold (anyone know???) then i can finalise my design and crack on with the build (any excuse to use my new TIG welder lol)

also priced some stainless steel up for a planned 4-2-1 and whole system (TIG welding again lol) was quite surprised how much they were actually.

thats it for now i think. ill try and get some pics. ive not got any cos the camera on my phone has packed up, had some real nice snow poses too :(
 
the panhard rod tends to shift the axle more when you start lowering scott, and the shift is very small when the rod is near horizontal :grinning:
and i think it shifts about 8mm for a semi drop ? (and about 10 or 12mm full drop ? )
 
i had a figure of 9mm ringing around for some reason, im not planning on sitting the sills on the floor, just an average 40-50mm drom eventually, so ill frobably just take 10mm off the panard rod see what happens.

if i can get the bolts undone that is lol
 
shortened panard rod, made an eccentrically drilled bush, 7.5mm off centre, fitted to one side, worked a treat,

no other updates really, got a wideband o2 kit to fit, but not got round to it yet, will hopefully be buying a nistune setup off ed next month when ive been paid and he's got the consult cables in stock, then bring on the boost haha
 
thats fapping excellent. did you re-drill the wheels or the hubs? thats going to cause a load of confusion among the ford guys and the j tiners alike. i whole heartedly approve of the wrong wheels in the right place!
 
thanks mark, i redrilled the wheels, i had a spare micra hub and doctored it into a drilling jig, luckily enough the ford centre bore is alot bigger than the micra one so i turned some spiggot rings to align everything :)

i can imagine it getting a few of the ford crew's backs up lol
 
The collar that the upper shock mount sits on has been moved down, so that the shocks drop is reduced and it acts as its own droop stop to prevent the cut springs dislocation on full drop.

Scott what's the specs on the wheels and tyres, i presume 13x7 165/55? whats the offset? they sit very nicely. I think I'd have gone without the arch trims myself, but it is nice to have such a rare accessory.
 
collar is as mark says, to retain the spring when jacked up, shorten the spring shorten the damper.

the wheels are 13x7 et5 and yes 165/55

the arch trims are 3 fold really,
1 covers up the lacking rust repair on the rear drivers arch, (saved me having to colour match the whole rear quarter
2 i quite like them, plus it helps with tread coverage on the front,
3 they are genuine New Old Nissan stock and ive not seen them before, oh and were cheap :)
 
The collar that the upper shock mount sits on has been moved down, so that the shocks drop is reduced and it acts as its own droop stop to prevent the cut springs dislocation on full drop.

Anyone got pics of this with the springs fitted? .......................... im prob gonna look at my springs this week so Im guessing i need to do this to?? (and I cant weld either!!)
 
Then you might want to keep the springs located like this:

I made up some droop straps for the rear, so now that end stays nicely located when jacked up as well.

With the car's weight on the suspension:

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Its close to the exhaust on the off side, but i've now tied it out of the way with a cable tie, if the suspension was unloaded the cable tie would break and support the axle like so:

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On the inside:

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The straps are fixed through the boot floor, not ideal, but the fixing point is very close to the chassis rail each side in thhe corner formed by a cross member so its nice and strong, with the big washers spreading the load nicely.
 
Anyone got pics of this with the springs fitted? .......................... im prob gonna look at my springs this week so Im guessing i need to do this to?? (and I cant weld either!!)

sorry i dont, but im not sure pics would help you as there is nothing really to see, frank did have some pics in his blog...
 
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