I give up

Haven't checked that to be honest
I know its no good... I need to tidy it all up. But there's no point if it doesn't run :p
 
I'm currently battery related. As its now flattened it by not starting. That's now 3 batteries is flattened over 2 days. Very close to the end of my tether...
Started and died straight away before battery died. Swap battery. It started and died straight away before it flattened that one. Though the second one wasn't brilliant
 
Ok I'd love to pass on good news. But I cant. It starts and runs.
Dont even I pressed the starter button and it struck up. Sounded healthy and ran well. Pumps on... running got worse bigged down and died.
Left it a few minutes.
It restarted running pretty crap. Misfiring alot. If I stuck my foot straight it'd besr enough die. Let go straight itd slowly revive. I can build the revs up pressing it a normal rate.

I had to keep turning the pumps on and off to fill the little chamber up. Let it run down. And fill up again. All the while running rough and misfiring

Things I'm thinking
A: still too much pressure
B: bent the float arm or being overpowered
 
If it's killing batteries is the alternator wired up right? could be starting and running off the battery only and draining it to nothing. Batteries 'recover' slightly after a while and the voltage will temporarily rise... so I say check alternator wiring next, and check your resistance between the live battery terminal and earth isn't too low and ot's got a slow short...
 
Yea its the continuous cranking that's flattening it :( I charge it up and its happy again.
I'll have a look though :/
 
Mech pump refitted with correct sized feed pipe. Still bogs down and dies
Now it absolutely has to be a carb issue
Touch the throttle lightly its ok. Too quick and it dies
 
It wins
I officially give up
I'll be selling my JAE ticket
And the car itself will be stripped of luxuries and scrapped
 
Haven't got a few days :( JAE is round the corner
I'm not afraid to admit it has genuinely driven me to tears trying
 
Aye! don't be quitting on it, atleast your car kinda starts.

Mines now stuck at my place of work, completely immobile and being a pain in the @55 with nothing even giving it a peep of life, all because some stupid security systems having a benny.

You'l figure it out, but its like Noddie says, don't burn your self out over it, have a break now n then!
 
Normally I'm upbeat and take a problem think it through. And solve it. But I'm beaten down by it at every turn and its taking its toll... yet I can pop into work swap someone's engine over... do what I've done to my car and it run perfectly? :/
 
Right after telling little man to say bye to the micra and his response being no and running to get in it. I guess I'm being selfish giving up
So folks
Point 1 Part A
Vacuum leaks
@enuo those floats... is there a chance my pumps have damaged them? Or needing me to reset them?
 
What is the fuel pressure directly before the carb? High Flow rate shouldn't be a problem if the pressure to the carb is ok.
If that is ok I would whip the carb off and have it apart, they are pretty simple things really. It does sound like the floats are not stopping the bowls filling up too much. They are a lot like a toilet systern.
Good luck with it:) the problem is there somewhere and it's bound to be a silly little simple one hiding in a dark corner :D
 
Well I found a manifold leak abd fixed that so it can only help. Just fettling with other parts then carb off.
@noddie do you think the high pressure of the pumps has knocked the floats? Hopefully not split em
 
h701micra said:
Right after telling little man to say bye to the micra and his response being no and running to get in it. I guess I'm being selfish giving up
So folks
Point 1 Part A
Vacuum leaks
@enuo those floats... is there a chance my pumps have damaged them? Or needing me to reset them?
Click to expand...
You'll know if they're damaged because they sink when they are. It's possible the valve the float operates isn't closing properly, or the arm got knocked so the fuel is sitting too high/low. Is the needle seated correctly/Are the jets clear? Is there any perished seal floating in the dash pot bowl that can get sucked into the feed and block it? Are you using fresh fuel/filter? Have you adjusted the autochoke correctly?
 
When you put foot down with a carb there is a delay between extra air flow and extra fueling arriving, if mixture is too lean extra air will cause it to bog down before fuelong can catch up so fueling never arrives, could be too lean now?
 
Right carb opened up and cleaned
1378478129095.jpg
 
Floats reset... they werent out but I've lowered them slightly
1378478197210.jpg

Had the haynes out and checked all specs. They're all good
Valve needle closes well. Tested by blowing into it and moving floats
 
dont give in,,,,,,,,cause of you guys i can now remember my neighbour of ten years name :) guess what it is hehehe.
you cant miss jae.its the big one !
 
Enuo said:
You'll know if they're damaged because they sink when they are. It's possible the valve the float operates isn't closing properly, or the arm got knocked so the fuel is sitting too high/low. Is the needle seated correctly/Are the jets clear? Is there any perished seal floating in the dash pot bowl that can get sucked into the feed and block it? Are you using fresh fuel/filter? Have you adjusted the autochoke correctly?
Click to expand...
Jets appeared clear
Nothing in dashpot apart from a small calcium film now clear.
Fuel and filters all new.
Autochoke I'm unsure off but it opens and closes as it should

Enuo said:
Also double check the alternator is putting out 14.5v
Click to expand...
Unsure will test once running. If it does run
Enuo said:
When you put foot down with a carb there is a delay between extra air flow and extra fueling arriving, if mixture is too lean extra air will cause it to bog down before fuelong can catch up so fueling never arrives, could be too lean now?
Click to expand...
I've read about the acceleration pump chucking a bit extra in to compensate for the extra air. Mine works really well

Also read an Exhaust blockage can cause the stalling on hard throttle too?

The mech pump is reinstalled so its must be correct flow and pressure now?
 
h701micra said:
Jets appeared clear
Nothing in dashpot apart from a small calcium film now clear.
Fuel and filters all new.
Autochoke I'm unsure off but it opens and closes as it should


Unsure will test once running. If it does run

I've read about the acceleration pump chucking a bit extra in to compensate for the extra air. Mine works really well

Also read an Exhaust blockage can cause the stalling on hard throttle too?

The mech pump is reinstalled so its must be correct flow and pressure now?
Click to expand...
Might be too lean now with the lower fuel delivery if you changed carb settings
 
Just re flattened my battery cranking it....
A: I didnt connect the fuel pipe to carb
B: I didnt plug the auto choke and run-on solenoid in
C: I also left a vacuum pipe off

And for some unknown reason the fuel was disconnected from the filter.... I didn't do that so I'm guessing it popped off or paranormal activity :p... but popped off seems more likely :D
 
r-reg-sr said:
my k11 fuel pump was dead/dying when i got this same acc pedal problem .k11 electric pump
Click to expand...
Enuo said:
Might be too lean now with the lower fuel delivery if you changed carb settings
Click to expand...
So I'm definitely looking at a lean condition... but from the oe pump :/
Maybe a leak in my pipes... possibly the one thats not long fell off...
Taken 2 minutes out to think... then come back. Retighten and check everything
 
Right I've gone back to it. Tightened everything up got the air out the fuel.
And providing my battery holds out it will start and run :) changed the dizzy cap over and there's less misfiring now

Issues start to arrise once the engine has warmed up. Idle start becoming jittery and weak in the sense that any load applied kills it instantly.
The throttle cable is slack but I can't tighten it up as the threaded part cracked off the other day. So if I manually hold the cable tight it idles well @1000rpm

I've got a video of it running and the problem I'm having.

Accelerator pump in the carb act well and instantly when throttle is applied

Leaving just the exhaust.
When it started the other day it did shoot out a brake union. Shoved up there no doubt by my kids

The battery has gone flat again due to constant cranking. But when it does eventually start it goes to 500 rpm struggles and dies unless is given a tiny amount of throttle (cable slack?) For it to build up to 1000rpm
Again the hotter it is the harder it is to start
 
@enuo alternator was charging the battery :)
14.2v it sat at. The distance from the original battery place may be the cause of the 0.3v drop
 
I've been googling... biggest thing the americans have after acceleration pumps is timing and bad distributors. It ran ok with that dizzy but I'm unsure off the timing. I set it @ 10btdc
 
h701micra said:
New coil fitted :)
Dya reckon the carb could be getting too warm itself?
I'll check the choke too
Click to expand...
Unlikely though, but will run hot if lean.
Have you noticed am skeptical of autochoke?
Does easystart help? Or a bit of wd40 in the intake?(wild guessing there)
 
Didn't try that I just cranked it until it started again.
I don't understand how it can now be running lean :/ its now sat how nissan set it up. It maintains fuel in the dash pots as it should now.
I too am skeptical of the auto choke
But also of the exhaust and timing
 
Just checked my exhaust for heat... no idea why... but the engine is red hot and the exhaust is stone cold. The mani is quite warm... but where it joins the downpipe its cold
 
@noddie & @enuo... I've had a brainwave... would the high pressure from these pumps have blown out the jets... and now the carb requires resetting?
Problem being my idle speed screw and fuel mixture screw are seized :p
 
James said:
Originally posted by quickdraw
---------------------------------
note** these stats are from peoples experiances with fitment and not my personnal knowledge..

**wheel nut spacing/PCD is 4 x 100mm

regarding fitting.:
13" fits fine without rubbing on most tyres
14" as above
15" will fit but requires 195/45/15 with a tyre width of 6/6.5" and opffset as close to standard as poss (30mm)..
offset/ET value = 38mm
(rear arches may also require rolling)


other cars that fit directly to the k10:
again this is others personnal statements and is to give a rough guestimate as to what in theory fit..

renault 5
toyota's (except carolla coupe)
mazda
honda (except LEGEND)
pulsar
with 100pcd dimensions
bmw
vw
rover (except 800 series)
deawoo
daihatsu
seat
ford
peugot
vauxhall

this list will not include the full range of each of these makes but comes with the same dimensions so in theory should fit
Click to expand...
Ah... response is ok its just bogs down :( if I was to keep my foot down it'd die
 
Noticed something I didn't even check
My spark plugs are 8mm too short... so the electrode will be up the plug hole and not in the expansion chamber like it should be
Well that won't be helping matters
 

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