I give up

Noddie said:
The mg is twin carb iirc...
Click to expand...
Yup, twin hs4's iirc, except the yank single zenith models... yuk!

If there is fuel in the dash pots, good spark at the plugs my next check would be that the pistons are lifting freely under vacuum and that they're not seized fully down.
If they're free, check the hose or whatever it is on that wierd jap carb of yours that goes from dash pot to the needles isn't clogged. I'm betting it's fueling, and the shape of the intake manifold makes it easier for fuel to get to the outer 2 cylinders.
 
Noddie said:
Don't be sorry silly! You may be right about it being fuel eh, we are all just firing ideas over, didn't mean to shoot your down :)
Click to expand...
Well its like I said I know nothing about carbs chap... and yh were all firing ideas on why she wont start.
Dont feel shot down :)
 
k10 for a win. time to cheer boy up with some rd wores K10'nt action @13:00 :),,,,,,,,r@ a tatat.



wondering if k10 have the ignition switch fault like k11
 
h701micra said:
On the coil? Never had one :/ worth sticking one on
Click to expand...
the k10 had a ballast resistor built into the ign andy, so that the 9v coil was given a 12v feed during startup (then when you released the key it returned to 9v)
and if the resistor was shot or unconnected, the car would fire with the key turned but die when you let go
 
This piston and vac pipe to the dash pots... where dya reckon I should be looking? Totally avoiding taking the carb off... but looking like I may have to :/
 
h701micra said:
This piston and vac pipe to the dash pots... where dya reckon I should be looking? Totally avoiding taking the carb off... but looking like I may have to :/
Click to expand...
If you had a side drought car this would be so easy to diagnose... I not seen the insides of a downdrought so can't help you there...
 
frank said:
the k10 had a ballast resistor built into the ign andy, so that the 9v coil was given a 12v feed during startup (then when you released the key it returned to 9v)
and if the resistor was shot or unconnected, the car would fire with the key turned but die when you let go
Click to expand...
Even if it only fired on one cylinder :/
Hmm I used the original ignition wiring but on switches etc. When you say its built in... where abouts? Ignition barrel or nearer fuse box?
 
Enuo said:
If you had a side drought car this would be so easy to diagnose... I not seen the insides of a downdrought so can't help you there...
Click to expand...
Haynes mentions no pistons... air bleed screws and jetd etc

I'll post the diagram up
 
$(KGrHqF,!qUFGg(Bd+gdBRycNzsWe!~~60_35.JPG

h701micra said:
Even if it only fired on one cylinder :/
Hmm I used the original ignition wiring but on switches etc. When you say its built in... where abouts? Ignition barrel or nearer fuse box?
Click to expand...
its a white crock stick/block on the bulkhead or flitch usually mate
 
Cant see one... there was one on the K10 I stripped for the nissanubaru project

Not think its a fuel issue?
 
So now I know it runs I shall test for overfuelling. By stopping the pumps and funnel fuel the carb.. if it struggles its ignition
If it starts and runs its overfuelling
Yes?
I'm 101% on that but at the minute I prefer opinions to back me up
 
INB4 dumb but mabey its flooded?

Sounds like it to me anyway as it started, turned it off wouldn't run, left it a while, started it ran it, turned it off and it wont run again.

?

Overfueling is a good shout id say!
 
Overfuelling has been the idea all day it would seem. Re tested spark... brilliant spark at all 4.
The fuel pumps chucks out a fair bit

Its a question of the regulator now and if it will reduce flow... not just pressure @enuo @skinner_87


@frank I found the ballast and cleaned up the connections maybe that helped
 
I've only just checked my little magic box of communications......

Could not believe it when I saw the title :( a little bit of me died inside....

I am no expert atall but fuel problem does sound logical from what everyone has said :/

Fingers crossed for you :D
Hopefully she'll be running b.e.a.u.tifully soon :D

X
 
I have a carb if it turns out to be the carb (not sure on condition) but sounds like over fueling and the excess fuel evaporated then when run it up flooded again
 
Skinner_87 said:
Instead of swopping over mate can you not just use that last inline regulator to bring the pressure right down? Done nut off the top & turn the screw right in?
Click to expand...
Screw is in... can't get the dome nut on now... it might have a turn or 2 left.
I've a second regulator. A non return one.. worth sticking that in too?

Only the 2nd 3rd time I've had to use one... will screwing it all the way cut the fuel off completely? Never had one need to go in this far :/
 
Try bending the arm the float is on down a smidge, will take the fuel level in dash pot down a tad and help the valve close to prevent over fueling, assuming dash pot level is still too high?
 
I haven't been able to get a consistent run to test. It ran fine last night but with pumps off.
Flicked pumps on and it died within a minute

If I can reduce fuel flow sufficiently I can check float level... I'll let you know...
Looking through the float chamber window.. the fuel sits (once settled) about 1mm above. When running I've no idea :/
 
h701micra said:
Screw is in... can't get the dome nut on now... it might have a turn or 2 left.
I've a second regulator. A non return one.. worth sticking that in too?

Only the 2nd 3rd time I've had to use one... will screwing it all the way cut the fuel off completely? Never had one need to go in this far :/
Click to expand...

I've only had mine in a few turns as well to be honest fella!

I need two reg's on mine mate, one with a return from the main pump from 30psi downwards to about 10psi, then another with a none return that bring its down to 2-3psi & it never floods at that pressure :)
 
Clodo said:
I've only just checked my little magic box of communications......

Could not believe it when I saw the title :( a little bit of me died inside....

I am no expert atall but fuel problem does sound logical from what everyone has said :/

Fingers crossed for you :D
Hopefully she'll be running b.e.a.u.tifully soon :D

X
Click to expand...
Dont worry :) it'll get there.
Worst case scenario I put my old mechanical pump back on for JAE
 
Skinner_87 said:
I've only had mine in a few turns as well to be honest fella!

I need two reg's on mine mate, one with a return from the main pump from 30psi downwards to about 10psi, then another with a none return that bring its down to 2-3psi & it never floods at that pressure :)
Click to expand...
I've a facet silver top fuelling the engine through the return regulator...
They run 27 gal/hr @ 4-6psi apparently
The facet cube pump flows unregulated to the swirl pot. Still at 27gal/hr @ 4-5psi

If I wind it right in. To its lowest 1.5psi pressure... flow will still be 27gal/hr right?
As flow is what I need to reduce I believe.
Flow and pressure must be related :/
 
h701micra said:
I've a facet silver top fuelling the engine through the return regulator...
They run 27 gal/hr @ 4-6psi apparently
The facet cube pump flows unregulated to the swirl pot. Still at 27gal/hr @ 4-5psi

If I wind it right in. To its lowest 1.5psi pressure... flow will still be 27gal/hr right?
As flow is what I need to reduce I believe.
Flow and pressure must be related :/
Click to expand...

Id think flow is worked out by the pressure & hose size mate so they must be related! So id recon it would flow less than 27gal/hr anything under 4-5psi

Enuo will be able to tell use the right psi for these carbs :)
 
we run a return pipe in our karts andy (to stop the carbs flooding) with a .7mm jet/restritor shoved inside it
 
Skinner_87 said:
Id think flow is worked out by the pressure & hose size mate so they must be related! So id recon it would flow less than 27gal/hr anything under 4-5psi

Enuo will be able to tell use the right psi for these carbs :)
Click to expand...
Ah well my pipe size has increased to 5/16... which I thought was standard size... its 1mm wider than standard.. so that wont help :/

Yea common sense suggests reducing the pumps pressure reduces flow... though it may work opposite
Cant find any info on this carb though. Nor haynes or interweb can help me.
Ga16 forum is too inexperienced to help with the 'ds' model
 
frank said:
we run a return pipe in our karts andy (to stop the carbs flooding) with a .7mm jet/restritor shoved inside it
Click to expand...
I remember reading that somewhere on here.
My carb has no return pipe or anything like... it has one inlet fuel pipe and that's it. The mech pump had approx 0.7mm on the return side
 
ours just has a T fitting on the "in" pipe to the carb mate, so that any pressure buildup is sent back to the tank, and it drops the pressure to the carb too
 

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