Bogg Bros Prices

h701micra

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Just had a chat with the Bogg Bros crew about pricing for manifolds.

4 cylinder manifolds are:
£180+vat

Carb cleaning and rejetting:
£35
(I believe that price is inclusive of the manifold. Sure it's more alone. May be wrong)
 
The same prices i paid mate but im sure mine was £180 with the dreaded VAT!

Top work , quick and happy to add a take off for the servo vacuum & angle the carbs over half an inch to clear the brake servo :)
 
The same prices i paid mate but im sure mine was £180 with the dreaded VAT!

Top work , quick and happy to add a take off for the servo vacuum & angle the carbs over half an inch to clear the brake servo :)
They may have bumped it up a bit then since you had yours done :)
Did wonder about the brake servo :)
 
Except it provides a much stiffer pedal which many may not like. A twin cylinder setup is much better and more comfortable :)
 
True but it's a huge improvement if you run bigger calipers and not as stiff as you'd first think. A stock MS and servo is extremely hairy and a servoless setup gives good opportunity to heal&toe ;)

On the same token, twins are great but it's comes down to a cost thing to most as it all adds up for a complete setup.
 
Never tried single mc. Its either servo'd or twin mc for me.
However I cant disagree at all a twin mc setup isn't cheap. And difficult considering the choices of mc and adjustable balance bars. Getting it wrong can be especially costly
 
It was a very nice mod to do to keep down costs and retain the stock MS. I particularly enjoyed doing it, as I had been told by numerous other people that retaining the standard MS was impossible, and you had to opt for an aftermarket item. Which was complete nonsense.

+1 on the twins though, that was my choice too and gave excellent flexibility with regard to caliper sizing. We run a balance bar and dash adjuster. It's not a competition car, so we can break the rules and have it within finger's grasp for on the fly adjustments. I'm really looking forward to trying it out, (car is currently on axle stands).
 
I'm using two stock MCs to create a twin set up. Its easily done. Only fiddly bit compared to the fancy aftermarket ones, in some cases at least, is the addition of the pushrod and clevis assembly. On a micra as such its on the servo instead
Ah were not alot such gadgets with it being a competition car. All changes have to be made when static. Which is a tad unfair considering rally is the time you'd need it for surface changes.
I hope you venture along with the car to an event so we can compare notes :)
 
I'm using two stock MCs to create a twin set up. Its easily done. Only fiddly bit compared to the fancy aftermarket ones, in some cases at least, is the addition of the pushrod and clevis assembly. On a micra as such its on the servo instead
Ah were not alot such gadgets with it being a competition car. All changes have to be made when static. Which is a tad unfair considering rally is the time you'd need it for surface changes.
I hope you venture along with the car to an event so we can compare notes :)

Yeah, totally, always good to have some banter :) (maybe a while to completion yet as I want to do this build properly and not have to re-visit much).

I am guilty of not only a blatant thread hijack but having a lust for toys too :rolleyes:

We had fun making the servo removal work and came up with a nice solution that used the pushrod and internals from the OEM servo.

I also found out there is an interim CGA3 build being undertaken by some. Their final build will apparently be a no expenses build to try max out in the 1400cc class, but that was something that didn't interest me. It will however be interesting to see where everyone ends up numbers wise :)
 
Hijack away :) Its all useful in one way or another.

A no expenses spared build is something that i dont think would interest many here. We're budget builders by nature.

Ah a long steady build. No matter how much attention to detail you put into it you'll end up revisiting numerous times. As your driving style and preferences change. That's what I found at least.
I'll have fun using oem cylinders in a twin setup for the first time. I have a lathe and I'm not afraid use it. Or for simplicity a correct sized threaded bar with supports integral to the mount should do :)
Though build complete or not you should come to this msc track day
 
Yup, exactly the tack we took. Got the gold old Colchester out and turned up everything. We used the OEM bar and turned up a floating support from some old delrin from the scrap box that ran inside the central adapter bore.

This is the third time I am re-building the car and the last big hog. A lot has changed and we're going a little mental but, in all honesty, this is something I want to use on track and enjoy, so we decided to go for something a little mental. Besides sticking close to the stock cc, the only thing we didn't touch was the crank, everything else went back to the drawing board with.

Having originally turned down the well known man named above, it will be fun to see how similar goals are approached and if we end up anywhere close in terms of methodology and results. This is the part that interests me the most, I have a feeling their available budget will be considerably more than mine on the engine. Rallying at the top seems to bring in a whole new level to things :eek:
 
Nothing wrong with making your own components. Its the best way to do things
If you've the time and patience to build something like that then why not. Build in bits and reap the rewards at the end with everything applied as you wanted to begin with.

Did you not at least lighten the crank? Or was this something not of interest?

I dont think its a case of how big your budget is as that only pushes you to buy and not build wherever the case may be. Whereas budget build, where building is the only option, then you end up with a more suitable 'product' for your application.

The thing I found with top level rallying is that its the fine balance between weight and power with weight contested for speed vs durability and power contested for speed and traction. One of the hardest competition cars to build in my opinion. A fragile touring/track car isn't likely to encounter rocky terrain or water crosses so these have to incorporated into the build. A rally car is something everyone should build at least once :)
 
Yeah, we lightened and balanced the bottom end. We however didn't stretch to a forged crank as we weren't interested in a 300deg+ screamer with a narrow powerband.

A lot of tought has gone into the head & valvetrain though. The crankhaft and block, head & cam cover castings are the only original parts left in the engine.

One of these days, I'll stuff something up on the forum in some form of fashion...
 
Yea that'd be good to see how you do it. I may even do the same with one of my engines. I did start to then just rebuilt it with nothing on the blog. However it was just a bog standard rebuild for now :)

Aye you start putting it high up in the rpm range which if it doubles as a daily isn't a brilliant idea.
Sounds like some interesting stuff you've got going on and it'd be good to the difference in 'manufacture'
 
We're aiming <9000rpm, preferably closer to 8500rpm. Not a daily driver though, not even close. I have a almost bog standard 1.3 GX for that :)
 
Mine doubles as a daily... well its a rally car with number plates.
8500 sounds a reasonable number. Will the gearbox and shafts cope ok with the high rpm/power?
 
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