• Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum

antony_aiken's micra Progress

well, its either that or go bankrupt.

and i cant do that can i?
its all about the buy and sell and if i can buy cheap and sell higher i can get some money so i can actualy afford to eat and stay warm.

so if no body takes these for £180..... then i will lower the price until they fall into a range that someone will buy them for.
 
noticed that block is from a facelift 1.3, i'd try and get a '98-'00 cg10 flywheel, they are a lot lighter and use the same clutch. that's what dan's got fitted to my old green one ;), along with the lighter cg10 crank pully
 
Those arches are really nice. I have a few questions about them, if you don't mind!

Where can I get a set and for how much? Lol.
Are they hard to put on?
Are there any complications with spacing the wheels out to a distance of the wide arches?
 
they are like hens teeth matey..

AMY is the best person to ask... and no, its not a girl..lol
they are very hard to put on, well not hard to fix to the car..... but to actualy line up and sand down to fit the bumpers......a pain in the harris... a good weeks work.

not realy, i used some bolt on 35mm spacers and they seem fine, although i do have some 7x14 et10 wide offset wheels for sale at the mo that should fill these arches perfectly.....
 
how?

i dont understand your question..

if you ask him he goes to japan a bit so he may have some in stock as-it-wer...

best to ask and find ooooot. lol
 
/\ no longer for sale..

after an £18 train journey to nottingham and 2 train changes, they are a 6x13 not a 7x14 as he advertised.... THEY WERE PRINTED WITH 6X13 ON THE BACK OF THE BLEEDING WHEELS!!!!!!

so they arent going on my car, and i threw away a chance to have a set of 3piece 8x14 split rim BBS's for these..... why oh why oh why!??!

im getting a refund on them though. nice enough guy, just a bit of a plonker.
 
this guy is now being a prat.

hes relisted the wheels as 6x13 as they are and now refuses to give me a refund!

he said, "all you need to do is leave me some possitive feedback and ill refund your money"

but i have allready left nuteral feedback stating the facts and nothing else. nothing hurtfull and nothing untrue.

just this, "items not as described, easy mistake to make, no harm done" everything else was 5 stars. and hes being a gearknob about it. GRRRRRRRR

opened a dispute with ebay and paypal.
 
i know.... paypal are on it.



just got this...

The payment that you made via paypal is still pending on my paypal account, I havent actually recieved the money yet,and the only way it will come through to me is if you leave positive feedback.
I understand that you want your money back but I did put in my item description CASH on collection which would have made things easier.
I understand that you made a journey, but I did bring the wheels to the train station for you even though my advert said collection only.
As soon as the payment comes through to me it will be refunded.
I also understand that the information on the item description was incorrect, this was my mistake and obviously wasnt done on purpose.
The sooner we get this resolved, the better for both of us.
Click to expand...


again, what a prat.
 
so do i. i cant have £94 sat in someone elses account when i broke.. GRR especialy when my mot is due on wednesday.
 
oh dear i think he has done that just to get him self some positive feed back so he can be classed as a good buyer grr anoys me that does

and i hope your car passes its mot wht you going to do if she doesnt pass(and thats if she is a she and not a he)
 
its an it..lol

well, if it doesnt, i will fix whatever needs to be. its going to fail on emisions i just know it.

thats why im busy building my new engine, so i can shove a 0 mile engine in a 147000 mile chassis..lol

failing that ill just hit it with a large hammer.
 
my car wont start..

i started it this morning to check the timing (ignition_) and it was off, ish.

then i started on the cam timing, took the cam cover off. took the plugs out and stuck it in 4th with the wheel in the air.
turned the wheel and got it to TDC and the inlet cam was a whole tooth out (retarded) so i removed the cover, took the tensioner off, took the cam pulley off, moved the cam around to meet the pulley on the chain (now 1 tooth further forward) and bolted it all abck up again, stuck the tensioner in and everything...

now i let the car down, took it out of gear, checked that all the lights went off on the dash. and went to start it, and its just turning over and not firing. its almost like a muted almost dampened pop or you know if you pull your finger out of a bowling ball quickly, its like that. but it wont go.

my dad looked at the cam timing, it is spot on. we looked at ignition timing, and it is in factory location. we then checked spark plugs... all at 1.1m and clean (well cleaned) then checked spark, plenty of spark....... but it wont start..


i havent done anything else to it other than whats above. and now 4 hrs later it wont go.

any ideas?
 
So let's get this straight. It started and ran fine, then you changed the cam timing and it doesn't run now! I wonder what it could be???????????????????? could it be the change of cam-timing by any chance?
 
no, the cam timing wa off before i changed it, it is now set exactly where it should be as the haynes manual and nissan info sheets, but wont even fire.

even if the timing is off it would start, just badly. this isnt even trying, almost like when you take the plugs out. even when you havent..lol

i will try and put it back tomorrow. GRRRRRRRRR WHY CANT THINGS JUST WORK!!!??
 
Just wondering, did you have the dizzy off??...if so are you sure youve refitted it the correct way round, as in its not been fitted 180 deg out?.
 
i know he carnt afford it, but i would buy a white prefacelift 1.0 base model and swap parts over from the red one :)

plus sides will be:
dont have to have a re-spray in white
car will have MOT
car runs fine
car is in better nik than the super s
will be a fresh start
will be more track style as its base model
you could fit the top spec stuff from the super s i.e keyless fuel cap, electric windows if you wanted
and it will be in white with the wide arch kit on
 

Attachments

  • PICT0159.JPG
    PICT0159.JPG
    106.9 KB · Views: 2,762
/\ give that man a bone.... legend!!

im going to check the crank tomorrow, spin it 180deg from the cams (top chain off) then try again..... it can only not work again..lol

oh and dan......thats an idea i have been having for a while now. but with no job its a little hard..
 
did you line up all coloured links with the dots. all five? and did you confirm the link spacing between the coloured links were correct?
i.e. upper chain - 5 links between the cam sprocket marks and 7 links between exhaust cam sprocket and idler sprocket marks.
lower chain - 16 links either side, so can't really go wrong as long as the coloured links line up with the dots.
to use the marks, you need to re-do the lower and upper chains together or it wont work.
 
i dont think the lower chain would ever be a problem as as long as you get the crank position correct, it doesnt matter where the chain is. its the top chain in correlation to the crank thats the hard bit and the difference in the links between the cams and the idler sprocket.

ill rip it out in a mo.



just remembered, the timing chains arent nissan ones, and there is only 1 coloured link on each chain.. GRR..
 
Antony said:
i dont think the lower chain would ever be a problem as as long as you get the crank position correct..
Click to expand...

yes ant, once the lower chain is originally set, it will keep it,s position (even if you re-set the top one many times)
tho you can re-set the lower chain to advance or retard the cams by tiny increments (ie, fractions of a link)
and dont worry about the coloured links, just count them eh :)
 
right, ive done that, counted the links. got them spot on, now do i line the numbered links up to the dots on the gears or to the locating studs? as the exhaust seams to open way too soon and the inlet also is opening before tdc by quite a long way....

ill take a vid of whats happening...
 
it does, but its not particularly clear which is which..lol (Y)

heres some pics at TDC
 

Attachments

  • Photo-0047d.jpg
    Photo-0047d.jpg
    431 KB · Views: 1,855
  • Photo-0046a.jpg
    Photo-0046a.jpg
    347.7 KB · Views: 708
  • Photo-0048a.jpg
    Photo-0048a.jpg
    391.9 KB · Views: 500
  • Photo-0045a.jpg
    Photo-0045a.jpg
    317.3 KB · Views: 483
i dont run one anymore. it never worked..lol

i just run stock fuel pressure regulator. i would reccomend the real nismo one or a genuine SARD one (sard ones dont come with a guage and have sard stamped into them)

IT WORKS!!!!!
i started it up and it went first go. oil pressure good, no warning lights. no leaks (apart from exhaust, but im sorting that) at first there was no power at all. wouldnt rev past 4000, but after a while (it got warm) it has a weird characteristic, it revs slowly ish to 3500rpm then from 3500 to 5000 it sounds like a bleeding touring car and from 5-7000 it goes nuts... revs very very quickly indeed.

but it sounds good, it starts well and it goes.!!!!

FRANK IS A BLOOMING LEGEND!!
 
ive hooked mine up it works fine (well more responsive) im just not sure what psi bar to run it at as i think its at 2bar atm i keep adjusting it to try find the best but dont wanna melt something or break something

ahh well ill just leave it i only bought it for looks tbh lol
 
you wont melt anything... but you will go through fuel like theres no tomorrow.

adding fuel cools the cylinders down and gives you lots of black smoke out of the back. it can also foul up your plugs and your valves with carbon.

but its no biggie realy. but you will notice a drop off in performance the higher you go as the mixture will be so rich, it just wont ignite.
 
nope, its not good.
i think it will pas its mot, but its coming apart again after that.

i can be running around at 1500rpm and stick my foot down in 1st.... and theres loads of noise and it just doesnt do anything.. slowly picking up untill 3500rpm then WOOOSH its off and the induction noise is tremendous. you can hear it change and it actualy sounds like a Honda Vtec engine right up to 7000rpm.

problem is, at 60mph in 5th gear i can stick my foot flat to the floor and there is nothing there..

i also have the dizzy advanced all the way and if i retard it at all. the engine slows right down and dies.

ive done something wrong havent i?
 

Similar threads

BlueMOB
MOB Micra Progress Blog
Replies
32
Views
5K
BlueMOB
BlueMOB
sr_steve
  • Poll
k11 micra ally progress thread
3 4 5
Replies
215
Views
48K
MrMigs08
MrMigs08
Luke.101
Mona's Progress
Replies
14
Views
2K
MaxK11C
MaxK11C
K
Painless Progress!
Replies
0
Views
874
knobbly69
K
M
Micra K11 Progress
Replies
3
Views
883
Mika The Finn
Mika The Finn
Back
Top