what did you do to your micra today ?

Anyone got any decent tips/links for making a PTFE ga15 TB/IM spacer?

been trawling through threads for days and I still can't find what I've seen before

PTFE manifold spacer

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http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-50#post-510149
 
Sweet, cheers guys. Gonna do a waxstat delete too, hopefully bring the temps down even lower.

Then heat wrap for the otherside. Thermodynamics for the win haha
 
Inlet and exhaust temps.

Colder air is more dense, if you can keep the TB and IM cool, you will also lower intake temps. Which in turn gives you the potential for a bigger bang, if coupled with a stronger spark and the right AFR you can gain a few easy ponies!



As for the heatwrap, given the source of the heat is the engine and the exit is the backbox, you want it to be as hot as possible leaving the engine to ensure good convection


And as for the spacers, they're there to stop metal to metal heat transfer from the block. The waxstat is there to hear the TB in cold temps to stop the IM from freezing over in the winter . Again, deleting it removes connection to the engines coolant system, meaning it's not constantly circulating hot water through something that, ideally, should be as cold as possible
 
I wish I knew what the hell you were all on about......sounds exciting though....

waxstat delete means disconnecting and bypassing the throttle body coolant lines to keep the TB and inlet air cooler.

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the coolant originally served to both keep the TB and MAF sensor at a stable warm temp (during freezing conditions) and also operate the primative waxstat fast idle mechanism (which nowadays tends to seize open).
after bypassing the lines so no coolant flows through the waxstat, the fast idle mechanism needs to be removed and allow the electronic idle valve control idle.

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http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-19#post-446256

the teflon inlet manifold spacer posted earlier further insulates the inlet manifold from the very hot engine to keep the manifold and TB cold which overall results in cooler denser air entering the cylinders.

heatwrapping the hot components reduces the amount of heat radiated out into the engine bay and help reduce the temperature of the air that the inlet system is sucking
 
No didn't get a pic of the spacer, but was easier to make. I've not done the inlet mani spacer, but with the TB spacer and wax stat delete it now runs nice and cold all the time :)
 
Well i compared TB temp before fitting the spacer and after and it made a BIG difference. Yep the inlet mani will still be hot, and if i have to remove the inlet mani at some point i will do this mod then.
 
Was referring to TB temp, i.e. after a thrash i can touch the TB and it feels cold, before i could barely touch the TB as it was sooo hot. Only dyno runs was with current engine with this mod.
 
Was referring to TB temp, i.e. after a thrash i can touch the TB and it feels cold, before i could barely touch the TB as it was sooo hot. Only dyno runs was with current engine with this mod.
you have done a waxstat delete then matt, so the only way the t/b can heat up is via the manifold (which is what i,m saying :) )
 
Well i compared TB temp before fitting the spacer and after and it made a BIG difference. Yep the inlet mani will still be hot, and if i have to remove the inlet mani at some point i will do this mod then.

Just keep an eye on your mani and TB bolts though when using PTFE due to it's tendancy to cold flow.
 
Cracking guide @pollyp, just don't have the £70 for the data scan :(

If I drive down to yours and pay you in jaw drops, coffee and biscuits do mind helping me set it up?

glad to help out but I'm really busy with work n stuff till mid of feb.
if it needs doing soon, I'd suggest researching into the nearest affordable consult cable & software that frank n matt are discussing and check the IAV guide I wrote above.
but if you can wait till I'm free I can help on a weekend.

I'm a tea n choccy bic kinda guy :p
 
Had a go stripping a scrap door appart to see how much weight can come out.

Can anyone that's taken the impact bar out tell me how the got it cut out there's naff all room to get a saw it grinder on there and I know it's been done!
 
glad to help out but I'm really busy with work n stuff till mid of feb.
if it needs doing soon, I'd suggest researching into the nearest affordable consult cable & software that frank n matt are discussing and check the IAV guide I wrote above.
but if you can wait till I'm free I can help on a weekend.

I'm a tea n choccy bic kinda guy :p


No massive rush really, just the sooner I can swap the cg13 TB with the ga15 TB.

My WIP has got a dodgy TB.

Tried cleaning the sensor(brown plug next to injectors), as that was clogged up really badly.

Carb cleaner and a microfibre cloth and it was spotless. Testing the rebound mech and it was resetting back the correct place. Popped it back in the TB, tested, andddd it's still sitting at 2k idle.

Tried adjusting the bolt at the back, no effect. Probably just need to resolder the points but.. Argh! I wanting this MOT-able and gone!

Hence why I could do with having my working one spare, even just as an elimination step.

Once that's sorted I can sort interior, bit body filling, MoT and then it'll ready for sale.
 
first went to the scrappies and found a tidy facelift that me and my mate connor are gonna scavange the petrol cap and exhaust off, it weirdly looks like it has a cherry bomb glasspack from the centre box where its been cut off for some reason, will find out when we take it off, then put my steels back on because the wheels i got from ade has below legal tread so put the steels on until i get tyres for the minilites, then took my mum out for out first long trip together to bath hospital for last orthodontists appointment, dont have to go there again! she hates the bounceyness hahaha!
 
first went to the scrappies and found a tidy facelift that me and my mate connor are gonna scavange the petrol cap and exhaust off, it weirdly looks like it has a cherry bomb glasspack from the centre box where its been cut off for some reason, will find out when we take it off, then put my steels back on because the wheels i got from ade has below legal tread so put the steels on until i get tyres for the minilites, then took my mum out for out first long trip together to bath hospital for last orthodontists appointment, dont have to go there again! she hates the bounceyness hahaha!
Find some uprated rear shocks, will make the ride much less bouncy ;)
 
first went to the scrappies and found a tidy facelift that me and my mate connor are gonna scavange the petrol cap and exhaust off, it weirdly looks like it has a cherry bomb glasspack from the centre box where its been cut off for some reason, will find out when we take it off, then put my steels back on because the wheels i got from ade has below legal tread so put the steels on until i get tyres for the minilites, then took my mum out for out first long trip together to bath hospital for last orthodontists appointment, dont have to go there again! she hates the bounceyness hahaha!
But did you hit a kerb, child, car and/or animal?

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
what do you mean but uprated shocks then? and sxi shocks that probably arent battered like my ones are, they have been on 3 cars now!
I mean like sports shocks lol. Although if you get both for £20 why not eh, just need 2.5mm ground of each side of bush rememer ;)
 
Been thinking about new on board video camera options for the rally car, as our current one is too unreliable....

@pollyp what camera do you use? Got a budget of about £50 (not much i know!)
 
Thanks for the ideas (useful and no so..) a Go Pro would be fab, but thats more than a stage entry fee and would rather spend my money on going rallying"....
 
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