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PROject PROfect

Just posting here to document for myself...
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Just read that, don't you just hate previous owners! Lol

Bloody estate agent *shakes fist*
Tell me about it what kind of idiot glues a HANDLE to something failed from the beginning comes to mind...
Have you tried G3 cutting compound?
And a polishing wheel to cut the now ghosted estate agent marks out?
 
Tell me about it what kind of idiot glues a HANDLE to something failed from the beginning comes to mind...
Have you tried G3 cutting compound?
And a polishing wheel to cut the now ghosted estate agent marks out?
I've polished the boot lid a couple of times, you can still see the email at certain angles. Will have a proper go with the rubbing compound someday, it's more annoying as the boot is the only panel, besides the rear bumper, that doesn't have dodgy paint ^_^

(The only panel I hadn't ruined the paint on)
 
Completely cleaned the rear end under body and waxoyled for future protection :) looks nice and black ;)
Made a note of where there's a few holes to get patched.
Just the front to do now hopefully I'll get many more years motoring from her... So far the sills have been welded up and waxoyled the front crossmember has been changed along with quite a bit more of the front end surprising I still had an engine if I'm honest!
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Fuel pipes may need to be changed out I think... Waxoyled them anyway just to be safe.
Pain in the arse of a job but I feel good knowing she's got that little bit more protection :)
 
Does anyone have any recommendations brands etc I'm looking for a dump valve and have no clue what I'm looking for...
 
Lol I have one you can have. Not fancy but it does the job
Doesn't need to be fancy Chris just one that works and like I said I haven't got a clue... ones on ebay range from £20 up to £250 :/
I'm slowly scratching off bits I need :) how much you want for it?
 
Doesn't need to be fancy Chris just one that works and like I said I haven't got a clue... ones on ebay range from £20 up to £250 :/
I'm slowly scratching off bits I need :) how much you want for it?
10 will do. Its a recirc valve but I ran it as a blow off and it worked on mine fine. I don't even know why I bothered getting another one.. I think cause shiney
 
10 will do. Its a recirc valve but I ran it as a blow off and it worked on mine fine. I don't even know why I bothered getting another one.. I think cause shiney
Ill have a think about it mate dont want to take yours then decide i want a new one haha cant make my mind up. Shiny is what I have been looking at and there all the same... Just price is different until you see they've got a gfb response... £205 is a little steep tho haha what are you running at the min Chris?
 
Some rep thing. Doesn't need to be fancy. Just release pressure done. I did a full nut and bolt restore. It made sense at the time.
 
Some rep thing. Doesn't need to be fancy. Just release pressure done. I did a full nut and bolt restore. It made sense at the time.
Fair enough...
I guess so and I could always plumb it out the way.
I guess with a nut and bolt restore you'd want new I know I would.
Do you have any pics this one your offering kind sir?
 
mine,s just a diesel recirc valve tom, works the same as a dump
the boost controller is far more critical really, stopping w/g creep when you floor it, and then boost creep at the top-end without an electronic controller is a fine art :)

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mine,s just a diesel recirc valve tom, works the same as a dump
the boost controller is far more critical really, stopping w/g creep when you floor it, and then boost creep at the top-end without an electronic controller is a fine art :)

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Second that mate. Boost controller is my next purchase. I find myself playing with the accelerator pedal to ensure less creep. Plus boost comes up lower in the revs and can be tuned to be more manageable.
 
Second that mate. Boost controller is my next purchase. I find myself playing with the accelerator pedal to ensure less creep. Plus boost comes up lower in the revs and can be tuned to be more manageable.
aye, a w/g actuator is just a rubber diaphragm with a spring behind it, so even with preload a 7 psi spring will start to move at about 3 psi.
and the tubby relies on exh mani pressure in order to create boost (ie, more mani pressure than exhaust system pressure) so if the w/g starts to open prematurely the turbo will be laggy.
here,s my latest ghetto controller, ball and spring to hold the pressure back till 8psi in the red bit, and 2 x .5mm bleed holes in the yellow bit :)

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Frank... You are mental... Really. I am a computer nerd. I like electronics.. I may go down that route. Plus wouldn't you want to know what is really going on in the motor. Is that a bloody air tool connector... I see
 
If so is that just an air connector with the tub shaped fitting to stop air, you replaced with bb
yeh :) the 2 bleed holes vent any pressure that leaks past the ball, and also releases the pressure in the actuator when you lift (else the ball and spring acts as a 1 way valve and holds the w/g open when you want it to snap shut on a gearchange

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Think its getting it up to andys I'd worry about haha got a guy we use down here who will weld it for a family discount :)
 
If it ends up like Paul's, leave the hole its tidier :p
I've told @pollyp we'll patch it for the autotest next weekend then I'll be cutting the lot off, starting again and making a decent job of it, like a flipping patchwork quilt, typical the welder was on form then ran out of wire :rolleyes:
 
I've been getting odd readings from the temp gauge... changed both sensors... good job really!
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Covered in radweld surprise surprise!
 
Thought I'd share some pics about how effective the products are from direct detailing :)
So today I removed both front wheels as they have taken a hammering over the last year...
This is what I started with...
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I used Direct Detailings 'Delete fallout remover'
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Well impressed no effort at all gave them a scrub with the wheel brush.
Then used a tar remover and this was the finished result.
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WOW!!
 
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