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Porks bike carbs and boost project

Not at the moment, will need to build a low comp engine first. so might build another frame and engine and fit it to one of the other mini's.
 
Manifold so far.....

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Manifold so far.....

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A lot more grinding needs to be done to maje it look pretty, but you get the idea

Turbo goes in top hole ;)
 
Cheers ,
Need another plate to make outlet flange, and start on flappy valve thing lol

Was wondering though, how important (in this configuration ) is it that the valves are pressure tight?
 
Cheers ,
Need another plate to make outlet flange, and start on flappy valve thing lol

Was wondering though, how important (in this configuration ) is it that the valves are pressure tight?
if you make the butterfly,s oval you can get them gas-tight eh neil, and boost leaks are boost leaks innit :)
 
So not massively important, was jus wondering mor about the s/c blowing back thru the turbo valve/flap....would essentially be the same as having the idle bypass valve open
 
any backflow will be like a boost leak i guess neil, backflow through the tubby will be massive, but the s/c is positive displacement and will only leak minimally,
 
Looks good, im all about simplicity. Soooooo just a thought... Would it not be simpler to plumb it all in like the diagram I posted before but swapping the small turbo for the supercharger?


Would have thought you could source the check valve somewhere?
 
The plumbing is like that, il give my valve thing a go (free, jus time making it), if not, il buy that 500cc crosser reed valve :)
 
Right, lol, had another thought

I've tested back flow thri the s/c, there's little or next to nothing that comes back, so no need to block s/c whilst turbo is boosting

So would this be ok as a valve for blocking turbo whilst s/c is boosting ....
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Or would it be to restrictive on the turbo?

Or would hinged flap valve be better?

I've got the disc cut perfect for it,
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Probably be fine, but I'd make the disc larger than hole diameter, then turbo pressure is acting on a larger surface area once opened and will hold it open wider, and you can also then fit an o-ring to it to aid sealing. I still think the reed valve is the way to go however.
 
Ok,

I havnt finished the pipe/manifold yet,
This was just a test to see whether it all lines up and clutch works, I guess it will be quieter when it's piped up, I have removed A LOT of sound proofing to that came with the charger (would melt where it is ......

Anyway.....
 
Ok,

I havnt finished the pipe/manifold yet,
This was just a test to see whether it all lines up and clutch works, I guess it will be quieter when it's piped up, I have removed A LOT of sound proofing to that came with the charger (would melt where it is ......

Anyway.....

That made me tingly in my man parts...
 
2-1 piece

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Aaaaaaaaaarrrgghh!!

1 bit I'm waiting on to link it all up.....1 !
It's a central locking solenoid to operate the valve that'll go in the missing section

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Want it all 'running ' by Sunday, gunna take it to pod and have my first ever go on a drag strip lol..........I'm bringing a mate to tow me home
 
Haha !

I'm really concerned about my gearbox holding up.........it's a 1986 1.0 4 speed in it still!

One way to find out I guess
 
Mate, I've been working my ass off to get this far this quick, in between work and home life, i

I set my target of having it running by the 26th , might jus maje it
 
It shows! Especially in that pipework... I know how long it takes to make stuff like that

You'll make it in plenty of time... you'll have time to wash it before you go :p
 
So thought I'd try the car jus with the supercharger.............no!

Thought the natural draw from the engine would be enough on idle to suck in whatever the small charger put out on idle, but no, so gunna have to put in (somwhere! ) that BMW mini bypass valve

Not to much of an issue, jus effort lol
 
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