Bike carbs

Throttle cable just used the micras standard cable

When making the manifold make sure the float bowls on the carbs are at the right level
you mean when the carbs are connected to the manifold they should be level accross the top of the carbs them selves? use of a spirit level?

Another thought for you, if your a fan of having petrol in your tank it won't last long on carbs


well i start work in 2 weeks and every day ill be driving 4 miles in total until weekend so it wont really matter to me during the weeks , also this is how im getting my money to do it haha
 
you mean when the carbs are connected to the manifold they should be level accross the top of the carbs them selves? use of a spirit level?




well i start work in 2 weeks and every day ill be driving 4 miles in total until weekend so it wont really matter to me during the weeks , also this is how im getting my money to do it haha

Make sure you read those PDFs mate, it's the float bowls that need to be level generally (dependent on the make of carb)

Try to find a few build threads online there's loads of carb conversions out there.

I know mines not a "road" car on the same way but if I get over 10mpg I'm very lucky
 
assuming ive fitted a decent 421 mani, some 1.0 flattop pistons and meddled with the rev limiter, what kind of power would you expect to see from running bike carbs on a ghetto level? move than youd see from the proposed itb on the standard ecu setup?
 
assuming ive fitted a decent 421 mani, some 1.0 flattop pistons and meddled with the rev limiter, what kind of power would you expect to see from running bike carbs on a ghetto level? move than youd see from the proposed itb on the standard ecu setup?
There wouldn't be much point in going ITB without having a decent exhaust system, and CG's power tends to tail off near the limiter anyway unless its been built as a screemer so I don't see much point removing the limiter tbh

Rough guesstimate 115bhp?
 
There wouldn't be much point in going ITB without having a decent exhaust system, and CG's power tends to tail off near the limiter anyway unless its been built as a screemer so I don't see much point removing the limiter tbh

Rough guesstimate 115bhp?
i was going full screamer, fabricate mad side exit, lightend fly, super high comp, barrel grinder porting, home made copper core leads to massive gap plugs. its not going to be used for anything more than track days/ hillclimb if i can get the time/keep my job.(work for bae portsmouth, all is not well atm lols)
 
Feel for you Chops - I work at Broad Oak, but not naval ships.

Reckon your project sound ace, love to see it.
 
i was going full screamer, fabricate mad side exit, lightend fly, super high comp, barrel grinder porting, home made copper core leads to massive gap plugs. its not going to be used for anything more than track days/ hillclimb if i can get the time/keep my job.(work for bae portsmouth, all is not well atm lols)
Hope all goes well on the job front mate
 
Depending on cams you can lengthen the exhaust primary runners to bring your peak power lower down the rpm

That is from distant memory :/
 
Hope all goes well on the job front mate
thanks:). Finally from me, and i know its a bit off topic for this thread, but i think i may have had it back to front on my other thread. wouldnt a 1.0 with crank and cams from the 1.3, carbs( super short stacks for screamin ;)), 421 side exit and lightened fly be better for a hi comp/rev engine than a 1.3 with 1.0 pistons and bolt ons?
 
If I'm reading it right ( I've had a few beers) then a 1.0 with a 1.3 crank or a 1.3 with1.0 pistons will be the exact same thing.
 
thats what i mean, the 1.0 has a shorter block, so starting with a 1.0 would give a higher comp than the same pistons and crank in the 1.3?
also, if i have 1.3 crank and cams in a 1.0 block, will the pistons and valves have a fight at like 9500 rpm lol?
 
oh man my head hurts now lol. ok that clears that up. what sort of compression ratio and power hike does the 1.0 pistons and rods/1.3 crank give?
 
as always i read through a thread, and i think lots of little clever things to myself, and note to comment them at the end.

typically though, Frank always beats me to it!

the cg10 crank has a shorter throw, and the con-rods are longer to make up the overall difference in length, and to keep the compression ratio!

i've been going through all the motions recently, and im gonna start building my engine soon i hope. its just a case of getting the gudgeon pins out. could anybody tell me (i dont have them infront of me) what diameter the gudgeon pins are so i can buy a press?!
 
just another quick question, would bike carbs be able for a turbo? i know to make a turbo work with them id have to fabricate a box with 4 holes for the plenums so the forced air can be sucked if that makes sense?
like this
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/7258/user20520pic26712616786.jpg

Group B rally used to run superturbs through carbs. the pressurised fuel/air mix is why they went bang so often! im not trying to stop you though, its a great idea! just dont run fuel/boost pressures as high as group B..... but that probably goes without saying haha!
 
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