PollyMobiles Rebuild

[pollyp]

keeps me busy:grinning:

 

[pollyp]

fitted the solenoid and hooked upto battery

took to motorway,
solenoid off, 4th gear at 3k & WOT, the boost slowly builds at usual pace at stays at 10psi without spiking.
solenoid on, 3k & WOT, the boost builds slowly at usual pace from 0 - 8psi then maybe unnoticably quicker past 10psi and then as usual rises faster as rev builds until i turn off and it drops back down to 10psi.

at WOT 10psi, i flicker the switch on & off, the boost builds and drops back to 10psi in sync.
at less than 9psi, flickering the switch does nothing.

its like there's barely enough exhaust energy to power the turbo at 10psi so WG creeping is minimal
maybe the WG actually stays shut until near 9psi therefore trying to keep the actuator shut in hoping to reduce WG creep and speed up spool time is negligable at such low boost.

10psi is like barely touching the capacity of what the turbo can do, basically the turbo's too big for such low boost and the weak actuator spring is limiting it to its boost threshold point hence slow spool up.

so either increase the boost pressure after fitting the forged engine to fully utilise the turbo's potential or fit a smaller turbo with harder actuator spring to reach the same 10psi, utilising more of its capacity, lowering boost threshold and speed up spool response?

 

[frank]

let me do some boost gauge vids @ 1/2 throttle and wot before you make any decisions paul ? (i just need to refine this rrprv first i,ve got 20psi and 40psi atm, but its still lean @ wot :doh

 

[pollyp]

let me do some boost gauge vids @ 1/2 throttle and wot before you make any decisions paul ? (i just need to refine this rrprv first i,ve got 20psi and 40psi atm, but its still lean @ wot :doh

i'll most prob be raising the boost & remap with the new engine rather than invest & fit another turbo. will be good to compare spool responses.

40psi!?

i tried the second option

but this doesn't work well.
valve shut, all the pressure reaches the actuator and it boosts as normal.
valve open, with equal size hoses in either direction the boost pressure is split down both lines like its a bleed valve so some pressure still reaches the actuator opening the WG wide enough till the boost balances out at 12psi

another thing that could affect the response is the manifold joint crack thats all along the RH weld, could hear it hiss at 10psi, needs welding up asap

 

[frank]

40psi!?

thats fuel pressure paul :grinning: not boost lol
20 psi @ idle and 40psi when there,s no vacuum in the mani (using that austin mini vacuum advance mech)
looks like i,m gonna need 3 x fuel pressure @ wot compared to idle i can see why many proper rrfpr/fmu are 6:1 ratio !

 

[pollyp]

thats fuel pressure paul :grinning: not boost lol
20 psi @ idle and 40psi when there,s no vacuum in the mani (using that austin mini vacuum advance mech)
looks like i,m gonna need 3 x fuel pressure @ wot compared to idle i can see why many proper rrfpr/fmu are 6:1 ratio !

was gonna say, block woulda gone boom if boost was that high :laugh:

still stock ecu map?

 

[solarice]

Yeah you'll be losing a bit with the manifold leak, slow spool does seem to be the best excuse to up the boost and make more power on the new engine lol.

frank : what about a 5th injector, activated on boost...like a constant spray instead of pulsed? Not sure how much it'd effect the overall rail pressure though.

 

[frank]

frank : what about a 5th injector, activated on boost...like a constant spray instead of pulsed? Not sure how much it'd effect the overall rail pressure though.

michael from holland ran a 5th injector for 2 yrs iirc eh kris, but i,m trying to keep it mega simple tbh, this reg is fueling really nice @ idle to 1/3rd throttle, but wot is megga lean still might need to resort to fitting the VAFC
and yes paul

 

[solarice]

michael from holland ran a 5th injector for 2 yrs iirc eh kris, but i,m trying to keep it mega simple tbh, this reg is fueling really nice @ idle to 1/3rd throttle, but wot is megga lean still might need to resort to fitting the VAFC

Yeah i can remember a few people using 5th's. I know mine needs a good bit high up iirc something like 20% extra (emanages additional injection rate on the 1.6's), thats still a bit too rich really as the maf seems to be going off the chart at about 5.5k.

A fuel computer may be the easiest way to keep it as simple as possible.

 

[pollyp]

Yeah you'll be losing a bit with the manifold leak, slow spool does seem to be the best excuse to up the boost and make more power on the new engine lol.

frank : what about a 5th injector, activated on boost...like a constant spray instead of pulsed? Not sure how much it'd effect the overall rail pressure though.

but dunno how high i could increase boost to safely when it involves long WOT periods (especially the long straights at nurburgring) and maybe sudden launches (santapod?) before one of the stock components breaks (HG, conrods, 1.3 gearbox, driveshafts, cooling?) or it begins to detonate if the compressions not low enough?

anyone recall how much torque & HP the stock 1.3 parts i mentioned could take before obliteration? i think someone from greece had turbo'ed upto 200bhp till his driveshaft went?

 

[pollyp]

just rang me moms insurance direct line adding myself to use her pug 307 from Jan to April while shes away on holiday so i could work on the car without worrying bout travel to work next day. cost £162 fully comp for the 3mths fwn

 

[frank]

but dunno how high i could increase boost to safely when it involves long WOT periods (especially the long straights at nurburgring) and maybe sudden launches (santapod?) before one of the stock components breaks (HG, conrods, 1.3 gearbox, driveshafts, cooling?) or it begins to detonate if the compressions not low enough?

anyone recall how much torque & HP the stock 1.3 parts i mentioned could take before obliteration? i think someone from greece had turbo'ed upto 200bhp till his driveshaft went?

jim gr munched his g/box then fitted a par gearset, then munched a driveshaft iirc paul, and i bet he has 230+hp.
our cranks and rods are forged already, so i guess the stock pistons are the weakest link :wasntme:

 

[solarice]

anyone recall how much torque & HP the stock 1.3 parts i mentioned could take before obliteration? i think someone from greece had turbo'ed upto 200bhp till his driveshaft went?

Not sure anyone will know to be honest...head gaskets have gone at low boost, stanni? (sorry if not you mate haha) killed a piston, and yeah the driveshaft twisted itself free. First two were all lean fueling related iirc...

 

[pollyp]

should prob keep within 200bhp then
AFR are fine, stronger pistons, and if the box or driveshafts break i have a spare and then lower the boost a tad

 

[pollyp]

grind, wirebrush n paint the thermostat housing & return pipe. thermostat is broke so will use the one on car

 

[peposhi]

Hey, Polly, do you know that your thread has more than 122 000 views/clicks
If you're getting a pence for each one of them, that would have given you a hefty 1220 £ you can use for your project

 

[pollyp]

whoa no way:laugh: never noticed it was that popular till u pointed it out
lol if only:grinning:

 

[r-reg-sr]

like your work! mind bogling blog at the best of times,,,,,,,,for me any way

 

[davey1991]

You've got one to many 0's there peposhi. 100pence in a pound not 10.

 

[peposhi]

You've got one to many 0's there peposhi. 100pence in a pound not 10.

lol, mate, corrected
you see what you want to see, you read what you want to read

 

[pollyp]

since i bypassed the TB coolant line i thought rather than bypass it with a tube, just shut it from the source. so to eliminate those pipes i won't be needing this port

so inject some sealant into the tube, not too much that it peaks into the main tube n cause an obstruction, then crimp the end in a vice

same with the other port

fit return pipe

freshened this pipe too

 

[pollyp]

saw the old janspeed is rustin away in corner, was gonna sell it eventually

so gave a good wirebrushing

and painted silver

 

[solarice]

should prob keep within 200bhp then
AFR are fine, stronger pistons, and if the box or driveshafts break i have a spare and then lower the boost a tad

Sounds like a plan lol.

 

[pollyp]

cleaned manifold, will put on sale soon with other stuff

gearbox all disassembled ready for degunking wash

 

[r-reg-sr]

what is that mumbo jumbo on the table? its a crazy puzzle
all these things you do reduce weight

 

[pollyp]

thats all the gearbox bits. easy as lego to work on :grinning:

 

[frank]

let me do some boost gauge vids @ 1/2 throttle and wot before you make any decisions paul ? (i just need to refine this rrprv first i,ve got 20psi and 40psi atm, but its still lean @ wot :doh

wet road again i,m afraid paul, but http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBlRV355RgM&feature=youtu.be

 

[pollyp]

eey thats near instantaneous boost:grinning:

just thinking there's lota difference in "spool from rest" time between WOT at my 3k threshold point and WOT near the limiter.

when i ask for max boost at 3k it takes like 1.5s to respond.
from higher revs it takes bout 1/2s

 

[pollyp]

new wideband sensor came. i think i should only fit it after relocating the bung further down near the cat so that it doesn't get cooked to death again

 

[frank]

eey thats near instantaneous boost:grinning:

just thinking there's lota difference in "spool from rest" time between WOT at my 3k threshold point and WOT near the limiter.

when i ask for max boost at 3k it takes like 1.5s to respond.
from higher revs it takes bout 1/2s

pretty good response eh paul if you pause the vid and wind it back to zero, it shows 0 psi and 2k rpm eh

 

[pollyp]

was that first rev with clutch down or 1st gear launch/wheelspin? from dead rest it takes a moment to spool from zero to max boost as the revs accelerate (unless the turbo is pre-spooled before launch? ie, blip or hold revs near limiter to induce enough gas energy?) but once its going, when the throttles reapplied quickly after upshift, the turbos inertia keeps the respool time to a minimum.

how do ppl launch their turbos on the strip?
hold mid-rev, drop clutch & WOT?
or just rev to the limiter till the turbo's spooled up n drop clutch? (can't imagine its good for the clutch)

 

[pollyp]

gearbox washed n wiped clean

fit internals

painted the casing

and bellhousing. also give it a laquer tomorrow to keep it cleaner for longer

 

[frank]

was that first rev with clutch down or 1st gear launch/wheelspin?

yes 1st gear rolling start paul, here,s one in the dry and you can see it spool up from slightly before 2k (about 6 secs in)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BQ_5H9G4siE&feature=youtu.be
which is why the GT15 with high comp is an ideal tubby for a daily imo
i doubt if a T25 or TD04 on a 1275cc has any boost before 3k, and with low comp pistons and intercooler and the longer chargepipes probably more laggy still

 

[pollyp]

nice. 20-60mph in 6secs is bout the same as on my last datalog vid but that was uphill. ur short shifting cos of WOT high rev lean out?

aye the smaller tub seems nippier at low end for a daily

forgot to consider the extra IC piping would delay boost response. though mines more intended for long WOT periods on circuits, the little lag under normal driving is minor.

 

[pollyp]

the pressure switch adaptor thread came. it threads onto the switch fine but the small male end is NPT whereas the hostail bit is BSP so only went in 1mm. i retapped the male end with an imperial die to try match the pitch. the hosetail went in more but was a snug feel. so i tightened it with me socket until the stupid error of overtightening lil bit more and it snaps off:doh: bugga

tried cutting a groove and unscrew it with an impact driver but its truly stuck

worried i'd have to order another hosetail & adapter, instead i thought i's just grind the hosetail bit to fit inside the adaptor and against the switch. so put the hosetail in a piller drill and machine away the female thread till it fits in the adapter

grind off the adaptor male end flush, apply sealant on the mating faces, screw onto switch and hey its shorter and better than before

hooked onto bike pump and adjusted it to switch at 10psi

 

[frank]

nice. 20-60mph in 6secs is bout the same as on my last datalog vid but that was uphill. ur short shifting cos of WOT high rev lean out?
.

i,m not sure why i short shifted paul :blush: the leanout is only slight with the current (1/2 throttle) throttlestop fitted.
the 260/10mm inlet cam is the next job, and i,ll do another vid to compare eh

 

[pollyp]

i,m not sure why i short shifted paul :blush: the leanout is only slight with the current (1/2 throttle) throttlestop fitted.
the 260/10mm inlet cam is the next job, and i,ll do another vid to compare eh

nice one:grinning:

 

[pollyp]

cleaned n fitted clutch arm

i think the rad got delivered tday while i was out cos got DPD note saying its left with neighbour, who's gone out. gonna have to wait till they're home to grab post
​

 

[pollyp]

got the Nissen radiator :grinning:

its definately alot thicker. 26mm thick(Y)

so the rad face is gonna be 5mm closer to the turbo inlet elbow, need to mod the fan to fit

 

[karlj]

Are you using a slim line fan?

 

[will930]

or a front mount fan

 

[Low Rider]

Nice, looks just like the one we used to have on the car before the upgrade to an alloy rad.

Mad how they compare to a stock one when you compare extremes Still, a full width rad would be awesome for a boosted motor

 

[pollyp]

Are you using a slim line fan?

or a front mount fan

intercooler covers over 1/4 the rad so a front fan would be tiny n noisy n not as effective. its a stock fan dremeled n bent to fit, does the job

 

[pollyp]

Nice, looks just like the one we used to have on the car before the upgrade to an alloy rad.

Mad how they compare to a stock one when you compare extremes Still, a full width rad would be awesome for a boosted motor

now thats a thick rad:grinning: is it not full width? shame a full width alloy racing micra rad is soo expensive

 

[pollyp]

comparing the new & old rad front & back very similar

heres the major difference

26mm core vs 16mm core

remelted the mounts till the fan sits flat against the face

it fits like a glove:grinning:

clearance is not as bad as i thought. only minor thing is the shroud just touches the elbow, little dremel will sort it

well there u go, the micra automatics rad is a cheap easy off the shelf upgrade for any manual micras having cooling probs(Y)

have to wait till oulton park in march to see if it performs enough

 

[r-reg-sr]

banging mods
i may do this rad as the one i'm using is bent and the spare one i got is a head gasket failier blokage one hmmmmm

 

[Stani1029]

Wow so theres only 1 in and 1 out on the rad?

 

[pollyp]

Wow so theres only 1 in and 1 out on the rad?

yeah exactly same plumbing as normal, just a thicker core. the two small aux oil cooler pipes at the bottom are independant and just form a short pipe inside which frank posted a pic of earlier.

 

[pollyp]

ordered new clutch release bearing for £31 delivered and new retainer clips from dealer for £4 since mine'll be worn through.

but sad new tday. whilst phoning partco for quote on the bearing I gave my old micras reg since my current grey micra used to be auto, guy said hmm system says the cars scrapped pollymobile 1 is dead:down:

 

[pollyp]

anyone know the thread size of our oil filters? i'm tryin to price up the oil sandwich plate for a possible oil cooler