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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
now to fit the WOT switch.

thought bout fitting it on the throttle pedal bumpstop but the pedal may droop down as the cable stretches and could potentially knock the switch off the bumpstop if not fully secure or the bumpstop screw could loosen and affect its position.

the switch had to be placed in a stable position where it could trigger at WOT consistantly, had to be on the TB. so took it out n see what moving part could trigger the switch at WOT

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theres a convenient un-used flange on the throttle shaft thats near the un-used waxstat body when at WOT. could stick it there

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dremel the slot precisely

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snug fit

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drill a hole to secure the switch. was kinda hard to drill into the brass. silver wax goo leaked out

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screwed on

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bonded/sealed with sealant

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when at WOT this triggers the switch

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reinstalled. the fuel return pipe is nearby so will have to ziptie it out the way

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hehe thats awsome:grinning: i'm gonna have to buy my own helmet since i now goto tracks several times a year, saving the hiring costs and could then mount my jvc cam on it rather than in the car
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
Mounting hardware is a key consideration when looking at a cam, as some circuits will scrutineer the car for lose objects prior to going on the circuit, as anything not securely fixed can become a serious hazard in a crash, (even if small). Saying that, other tracks can be quite lax in comparison as I have seen plenty of incar youtube videos with stuff strewn all over the dashboard and in door cards etc, even the odd bottle of coke in the passenger footwell lol ;)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
aye twas only oulton park where i was told i can't use my lil suc pad cam (although my cousin had those large cam frame on suc pad rigs on rear window no probfwn), all other tracks i've been are more relaxed and looks more at covered clothing than a tiny cam
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this nice one shoots 720x480, £20 and comes with a suca pad

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this one is the same 720x480, £16 and has LED lights so don't have to strap on a seperate torch if its in engine bay (dunno if lights & cam work simultaneously), dunno bout quality

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this ones a 640x480 cam, £26 and takes 2 AA batts so alot more convenient

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more high end is this drift x170 but being so bulky n soooo expensive at £100 i mays well use my jvc cam

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if the sucka mounts insufficient i could just make a custom bracket bolted onto the chassis sumwhere
 
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frank

Club Member
the helmet cam is more versatile for panning round left and right tho eh paul, at santa pod for example :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
yep. will still be using the jvc for cabin shots but mount a small helmet cam for pov shots. plus i also wanna try mount the tiny cam near the turbo to check WG operation or anything else during tests
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
wired up the boost controller, starting with the 12v supply for the switch and the nearest easiest circuit to tap into was the GTIR MAF cable since i was also shortening it

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next the pressure switch had to be along the way to the solenoid but nearby the BOV pipe that i was gonna plumb into yet easy to access for adjustments so ziptied it here

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power goes to the solenoid

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and is grounded to the engine block

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test it tomorrow. then i'll take the turbo out to weld up the manifold crack with the arc welder
 
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gtsnissanb

Official MSC Trader
wired up the boost controller, starting with the 12v supply for the switch and the nearest easiest circuit to tap into was the GTIR MAF cable since i was also shortening it

dsc05739y.jpg


next the pressure switch had to be along the way to the solenoid but nearby the BOV pipe that i was gonna plumb into yet easy to access for adjustments so ziptied it here

dsc05740z.jpg


power goes to the solenoid

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and is grounded to the engine block

dsc05742p.jpg


test it tomorrow. then i'll take the turbo out to weld up the manifold crack with the arc welder

Do you really want to alter the current going to the maf? Nissan engines are det tastic as they are I would leave the maf well alone, what boost controller are you using? Mine has no wires for under the bonnet, it wires of a switched live on the ignition, permanent live would kill the battery. All mine has is the boost solenoid and a couple vac pipes going to the controller in the car, I'm using profec b 1
 
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OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Do you really want to alter the current going to the maf? Nissan engines are det tastic as they are I would leave the maf well alone, what boost controller are you using? Mine has no wires for under the bonnet, it wires of a switched live on the ignition, permanent live would kill the battery. All mine has is the boost solenoid and a couple vac pipes going to the controller in the car, I'm using profec b 1

no issues at all. i'm tapping into the relayed straight 12v IGN feed from the battery to the various sensors (not the feedback wires that goes to the ecu) so would be minimal difference than if i tapped further upstream of that circuit.
DIY controller as u see in pics. WOT switch to turn it on, pressure switch that turns it off once set boost is reached and a normal boost solenoid.

just tested it and it works as i wanted :grinning:

initially did afew WOT runs in 3rd with the pressure switch at a higher setting.
WOT in 3rd, boost builds upto 13psi, pressure switch turns off solenoid, boost reaches the actuator opening the WG and it lowers boost towards the natural 10psi, pressure switch reactivates as the boost drops below the trigger point, solenoid cuts the boost feed, actuator pressure purges out closing the WG and boost builds back up towards the trigger point, etc etc. this cycle happens at 1/2sec intervals.
the pressure switch trigger point is set too high above the actuators natural boost level so it fluctuates. AFRs fine and engine runs fine.

the fluctuations is very dependant on the rate of rpm acceleration (e.g WOT in which gears). higher rpm produce more exhaust energy, lower gears have a higher rate of acceleration and so the rate at which the turbo spools up is faster.
because it takes time for boost pressure from the compressor to reach the actuator and open the WG once the solenoid opens (bout 1/4sec), its more likely the actuator can't react fast enough and cause fluctuations during low gear runs than during high gear runs. so it would fluctuate in 1st, 2nd gear rather than in 3rd etc if the trigger points too high.

ok the next runs i progressively loosen the pressure switch to lower the boost pressure triggering point till the fluctuations stop when running in 3rd (can't proper test 1st/2nd gear cos its cold n slippery wet).
now boost builds upto 10psi slightly quicker and stays there.
another thing i noticed is that during 4/5th gear runs (to ignore spool lag and find the rpm where it begins to make max boost) the boost threshold point has dropped from usual 3k rpm down to 2.8k rpm cos the solenoid kept the WG shut till it reached 10psi

so its a subtle change in response but will prob improve even more once i up the boost
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
engine bay at the mo

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turbo removed

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signs of leaking between manifold & turbine housing. checked with straightedge and the manifold flange is actually very concave hence leak in middle, may explain whistle at 10psi too? gonna lap it smooth flat

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manifold crack

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turbine kinda orangey red like the spark plugs

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the WG actuator rod was actually workin at an angle, bout 10mm offset

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so i redrilled the plate to move it in-line

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now it'll work better. the WG had 4.5 turns preload, I reinstalled with 6 turns now to help keep it shut at high end

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grinded the welds back to reveal the long crack

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thankfully before welding i found a long 5mm thick steel L-bar that i could practice & config the welder before the real weld. much easier to weld thick metal with this machine than sheets.
took two full attempts to get the manifold welds looking right but after several tries i found that at the right setting as long as i kept the rod at a shallow angle and keep feeding and following the pool and particularly listen to the sound, it creates a lovely weld :grinning:
it feels soo satisfying when the weld works out looking all smooth n even rather than splotchy blobs

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i know, so proud how neat i got it. feel i could redo the rest if the welds better but it'll do.
armed with this skill maybe i could start makin my own IC piping, although butt welding tubes is prob alot harder than T-joining 5mm thick steel. already got some spare steel pipe, need to order some pipe bends n get practicing
 

frank

Club Member
ace weld paul (Y)
an extra web welded on would add some strength eh

 

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r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
you know that stick melting fusing noise is the flux capacitor kinda noise,,,,adicting :grinning:
buzzfizzle frizzlezzzzzzzzzbrrrzzzzzzzz,,,:grinning:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
need some help trying to find the correct size male/male hydraulic adapter for between the turbo oil drain port and the drain pipe to resolve the oil leak. looks like this

hydraulic-male-adaptor.jpg


but all this BSP, JIC, inches, mm jargain is soo confusing and doesn't match the measurements i took

the turbo end of the adapter measures bout 21.3mm outer diameter
the sump pipe end measures bout 20.71mm outer diameter
using my metric pitch thread feeler they're both 1.75mm
both ends have that female taper edge

closest i found was a 1/2" bsp male to 1/2" bsp male adapter/restrictor but looking at the bsp thread tables it doesn't exactly match my measurements

http://www.supremeplumb.com/cgi-bin...and_HILLMAN_Hydraulic_Adaptors.txt&item=00725

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Product.do?method=view&n=1796&p=245465&utm_source=Google&utm_medium=Base&utm_campaign=Push%C2%A0On%C2%A0Hose%C2%A0&%C2%A0Fittings
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok just remeasured the fittings in more detail and the union i just ordered from ebay will def not fit the turbo so will have to junk it cos will cost more to return it. at £1.55 tis peanuts

taking into account that the course chamfered tips of the calipers won't be able to go all the way into the thread grooves and that the outer threads of the current fittings will be worn down abit, the inner & outer thread diameters will be slightly too large.

the drain pipe to adapter joint fits fine. the adapter end measures 20.71mm outer dia, 19.4mm inner dia at 14TPI so its a 1/2" BSPP thread.

the female thread end of the turbo drain measures 20.68mm inner dia. calipers can't measure the outer dia directly so i used bluetak to make a thread imprint and measure the thread height and calculated the outer dia at 22.36mm. but oddly it has a pitch of bout 18.5 TPI

there's nothing on the BSPP table to match that?
nearest one is 5/8" BSPP with 22.91mm outer dia and 20.59mm inner dia but its 14 TPI.
this turbo uses an odd large diameter thread but with very fine pitch

the turbo end of the current adapter looks very crossthreaded (hence leaking) cos it measures 20.71mm inner dia and 20.71mm outer dia (heavily damaged threads) but 14 TPI. the fine turbo threads had mashed the adapter threads.

i'm gonna need to take the turbo to a hydraulics engineer shop to proper measure the threads and hope to find a suitable adapter
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I've looked through almost every type of thread chart tables and the only one that might match is the PG Steel Conduit Threads

the PG16 has an outer dia of 22.5mm at 18 TPI

http://www.ring-plug-thread-gages.com/ti-Pg-Steel-Conduit-Screw-Threads.htm

finding a cone seat/inverted flared male to male adapter with this pg16 thread and a 1/2" BSPP thread most likely won't exist.

finding just a pg16 fitting to possibly weld onto a 1/2" BSP end will be difficult itself
only found this

645590_0484356.jpg


http://www.eibmarkt.com/DwEN/produc...term=Produktaktion&utm_campaign=GoogleBase_EN
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
take it apart and have it re-threaded....

only as an absolute last resort

ok i might be getting somewhere. i don't fully understand all this confusing imperial/metric threadsize secret mumbo jumbo coding but you can get 5/8-18 threaded flare nuts (brakepipe nipples) and wonder if that means 5/8" BSPP size with 18 TPI?

if so, then i could weld a 1/2" BSPP flare nut into it and it'll work:grinning:

...ah bumma 5/8-18 is UNF and too small
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
a-Ha whilst googling at JIC and other threads, i believe i found the matching thread

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=ryco+thread&source=web&cd=8&ved=0CGAQFjAH&url=http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Hydro_Steering/Ryco%20Thread&ConnectorID.pdf&ei=0LoUT8yQJYH28QPxn4zPCA&usg=AFQjCNGW1zjRu9JIo2yShH7jMa8Uf7WfjQ&cad=rja

originally in this PDF bout identifying connector threads i came across SAE pilot o-ring seals where the 7/8-18 has 22.2mm outer, 20.6mm inner 18TPI. exactly what i wanted

more research and its an inverted flare nut with a 7/8 - 18 thread i need

these ones r in usa
http://fittingsandadapters.com/inflartubnut1.html

gonna check if some local engineers have any
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tday i went to every hydraulics place in middlesbrough and no one has a thread that'll fit and definately don't have that 7/8-18 inverted flare nut, one suggested check out the US ebay incase its there.
anyway continued searching round my local town, went into Linden Group.

we went through loadsa fittings, one adapter M22x1.5 had a similar TPI and kinda went in 3 threads before resisting but felt snug. we were guessing the previous wrong adapter that was forced in may have just kinked a thread, although the turbo cast steel threads are quite tough, looks intact, its just mucky with baked plumbing tape, oil and maybe threadlock.

the guy and his expert m8 were certain its the right thread and suggests cleaning the debris out n try it. worse case is to get someone to braze the fitting onto the cast turbo metal cos welding could just end up melting the fitting.

so this is the new correct fitting for £4.30

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double bodied cone seal union with M22 x 1.5mm thread on one end and a normal 1/2" BSPP on the other

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initially it goes in nice, just 3mm before it reaches the bottom. i kept working it in abit, flush out debris, work it in abit more

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until finally it hit the end and is fully seated:grinning:
hurray

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now lapping flat the turbo flange. the recent welding had warped the end badly. i heated it with bunsen and try bend it back on the vice but no effect. its a non-critical edge anyway. most the sealing is near the port inbetween the bolt holes

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loooong process of sanding it on a mirror

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that front bit were the gases escaped past is like 1/2mm warped and will take forever to sand through so tried speeding it up by gently grinding down the higher faces on either side of the gap to bring it closer

more sanding

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and its through

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grinded smooth any useless metal on manifold

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Guy

Has gone over to the oily side...
Club Member
Some nice metal working skills there Paul, can't wait to see it again (and have a ride in it this time :p).
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
blueprint release bearing came

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the roller is always offset to the collar hole, which side should the clutch fork be? offset towards or away from the fork?

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painted n assembled

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cut more off the fan shroud to clear the inlet

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all fitted

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cut n bent some extra cooling fins for the wideband

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hope she works n doesn't leak or blow when testing tomorrow
 
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baguete

Site Supporter
On the last days i was sanding a head and a block on the mirror (actually several mirrors :wasntme:), it takes so much time... :p
 

baguete

Site Supporter
About the clutch bearing, i was going to post a pic today, i have a bearing that looks like that. I tested it on a spare gearbox and seems to be good with the little gap to the diff side, the other way around seems that the bearing rotates a bit when the bearing is pressed against the pressure plate, can you test it also?
 
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