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PollyMobiles Rebuild

frank

Club Member
i take it you dont fit the collets into the retainer first then paul ? then push the spring down by hand with your thumb over the collets :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
nope i'm using a g-clamp type spring compressor then having to feed each halve collet onto the stem with nose pliers
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
managed to get the collets in abit easier with tweezers now

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HG on

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dent in the crank pulley

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a squeeze in a vice sorted it

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head & cams fitted

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
began wirebrushing the engine before paintin, tis gonna take awhile

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may as well dremel all the messy flash lines too:p

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Antony

Ex. Club Member
if you want to make it look brand new, go onto frost auto restoration, look up "metal plating" paint.... spray that on. it will look like brand new polished aluminium...

did it to mine, sold it to K6PFS and is currently sat in a barn somewhere in derbyshire..lol:grinning:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
think i got some high temp silver paint here. just gonna wirebrush, spray silver and laquer

i think its time to buy a new wideband sensor but dunno if i should get from somewhere in europe for £54 with unknown import tax

http://www.jtperformance.eu/index.aspx?pageid=455896&prodid=1628345&currency=GBP

or from cheshire for £64 (they have two types of bosch lsu4.2's, 7057 or 7206. dunno which ones for an LM-1 but it says 7057 is usually for Innovates)

http://www.efi-parts.co.uk/index.php?categoryID=82
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cousin mentioned they were going to oulton park in early march, we planned to test fit some civic rads near end of feb. but i was thinking last night that payin over £200 for the trackday and using this glazed clutch is not gonna work so maybe i'll need to consider pushing me schedule up abit. fit the forged engine (parents on holiday so no one here to help with crane n lifting) , get LSD rebuilt, find & fit a cheaper full thickness radiator, fit oil cooler, get a one-piece IC piping made, break-in new engine & LSD all before march:suspect:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hey i found this website says the k11 automatics have a thicker 33mm radiator core compared to the 17mm manual radiators. is that true?

http://www.radicool.co.uk/nissan/micra.htm

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it has additional ports for cooling the auto gearbox. so its a twin core rad but how is the internal fins plumbed?
is it where the front core just cools the engine while the rear core cools the gearbox? performing the same as a single core rad?
or does the engine coolant flows through one face section of the twin core while the gearbox oil flows through the other section?
or could the engine coolant flow through the entire twin core and perform twice as good as a standard rad? (if so this might be the cheapest easier option)
 

Stani1029

Club Member
The company is nissens and i guessed they mistyped the engine code. It would be interesting to find out if we had a thicker radiator sitting there the whole time lol
 

Stani1029

Club Member
Im pretty sure its possible, your think its setup just like 2 rads merged into one with 2 ins/outs? Would you get away with putting in a 2-1 (y piece) fitment
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
^indeed. was thinking plumb one small pipe into the top pipe and the other pipe to the bottom pipe.

howitworks says the auxilary cooler actually exchanges heat with the engine coolant rather than flow on its own fins.
 

superls

K10 Tuner
someone on here had Ed (i think) fit an almera red, needed a custom bonnet support thing, but iirc you have bonnet pins dont you?

it was a almera rad, 1 pipe was the same and 1 needed to be longer, and a custom mount, nothing you cant handle im sure :) he was selling it a while ago not sure it he did tho
 

Stani1029

Club Member
Yeh it was pgj i think, almera rad is huge and a tight fit, i fitted one on my first micra might be a problem when theres intercoolers/piping/oil coolers.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
pressure switch arrived tday but its bigger than i thought.

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the threads 1/4" whereas the hosetail adapter i have is 1/8".
the company has a 1/8" pressure switch but no price
to save the hassle of sendin it back maybe i should try look for a 1/4" adapter into a 3/16 (5mm) hosetail end to fit onto the boost lines.

the auto radiator, should i buy n try it? unless someone could confirm how the aux oil cooler is configured inside or if the radiator just performs the same level as a normal single core one?
 
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frank

Club Member
here,s a heat transfer pipe from the bottom of a rad paul (just a tube in a tube jacket basicly)
and cant you fit an auxilary heater matrix in the front somewhere ?
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=aag68p&s=5
and are you trying to achieve some sort of adjustable boost control ? or are you trying to stabilise the boost you have ? (coz mine shoots to 7psi and sticks like glue, no matter how much throttle or rpm)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
here,s a heat transfer pipe from the bottom of a rad paul (just a tube in a tube jacket basicly)
and cant you fit an auxilary heater matrix in the front somewhere ?
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=aag68p&s=5
and are you trying to achieve some sort of adjustable boost control ? or are you trying to stabilise the boost you have ? (coz mine shoots to 7psi and sticks like glue, no matter how much throttle or rpm)

thx v much frank
is that all it is, a short tube?:grinning: well grand news then. guess the k11 had a twin core rad available after all. gonna buy

with the pressure switch, boost solenoid n WOT switch i'm trying to acheive the fastest spool up time when i need it most by eliminating any wastegate creep until 10psi, rather than let the WG start to creep at 5psi n slowwwwly reach 10psi.

urs is a smaller turbo ain't it so a lower boost threshold point & quicker spool up?
 

frank

Club Member
thx v much frank
is that all it is, a short tube?:grinning: well grand news then. guess the k11 had a twin core rad available after all. gonna buy

with the pressure switch, boost solenoid n WOT switch i'm trying to acheive the fastest spool up time when i need it most by eliminating any wastegate creep until 10psi, rather than let the WG start to creep at 5psi n slowwwwly reach 10psi.

urs is a smaller turbo ain't it so a lower boost threshold point & quicker spool up?
ahh, yes mine,s a GT15 eh, heres how tight the exh gasses are squeezed to :eek: (i cant even get my little finger in it lol) but mine is very very stable atm fwn
ooh uploading attachments is working again :grinning: (praps xmas theme related)
 

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
blimey over 150L/sec flowing through that hole the size of my pinky fwn good thing the WGs working properly

ok the auto k11 rads ordered, so exciting:grinning:

here's a bigger pic of it and the core looks twice as thick as mine(Y)

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
haha i know. 15-20psi was briefly exciting. then going back down to 10psi feels like mush and asking for more POWURRRRR:laugh: we turning into puwurrholics?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
fitted flywheel

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centre clutch on PP

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fit onto flywheel

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test fit gearbox & starter

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to make sure nothing fouls the clutch

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
guy from rad place rang to say that he doesn't have the nissen rad #629871 but already requested warehouse to send what he thought was a similar rad made by valeo #732718 to minimise delay.
i specified that it had to be between 20-33mm or big as possible so he'll go check.

rang back later and the valeo rad to be sent was 21mm whereas the nissen rad is 28mm but he'd have to order one from denmark for extra £16, fine.
he cancelled the valeo rad and ordered the nissens rad.

driving back home going 70 in fast lane, there was some lady 4x4 trailing a horse in the central crossing just stopped to join my side 5sec away. i thought surely they'd see me coming and stay put till i pass. saw the wheels begin to move and to my shock began to pull out! in front of me! WTFFFFFF:suspect:grr

Beeeeeeeeeeep! Brake! ABS stutters, steer left into slowlane to avoid:doh: feel i could never brake hard enough during a startle panic. thought she'd hear me coming on her left and stay on her right but NOOO
5m away the flippin idiot continued to move left on the slowlane as if i wasn't there:wow: quick decision i had to resort to the tiny sliproad left to avoid collision and pass the muthaF.
why these fuppin gr#######s allowed to drive!!grrgrrgrr

i never usually use my horn before till i beeped it to death tday, guess i lost me horn virginity now:laugh:

went to scrappy and grabbed a solenoid from a volvo v70 estate. coulda just walked out but my mushy weak brain had to ask the guy in corner how much? tenna. ok..bahh wtf stfu brain:doh: aw well

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
before i forget,
helix PP was 200mm outer dia and 131mm inner dia
helix organic disc was 199mm outer dia, 134mm inner dia, 8mm thick
 
Reminds me of daily life with the ex-almera

Glad you're ok Paul, it's amazing how far people have their heads up their arses when they're driving
 

r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
i hope i aint messed my clutch thing, i done it by eye when fit up time

yeh mate the horn,,,,,,,,,,,,if used when you get that feeling someones gonna mess up (frequently) should keep em off you
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
PP is normally centred by guide pins but if the disc is not centred to the PP it just makes gearbox hard to slide in fully into the two guide pins on the engine block cos its not aligned
 

r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
with the g box weight its hard to know 100%,slid on nice though with that boingy thing going on,,,i'll get the right piece for the job
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
long as u haven't just left the box hanging while its partially inserted into the clutch disc before touching the guide pins, ur ok

roughly wired up to a switch i got from a broken mains timer. just need a t-pipe n hook it up to test it works tomorrow

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once the 1/4" adapter comes i could then test the pressure switch
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just figured i could hook it up like this

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when off, the boost source is connected to the actuator, vent is shut.
when on, the boost source is shut and the actuator is connected to vent, allowing the WG to spring shut on its own as oppose to noramlly relying on when the boost pressure drops to zero

if the ports from boost source to the actuator is flowing too restrictive when its off and causes some spiking, i'll just connect a t-pipe between the boost source & actuator then the t-pipe to this port which is less restrictive when turned on

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