• Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum

PollyMobiles Rebuild

OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
damn the colour coded words didn't come through, meh.

indeed it is scott :) like to be thorough n the colour coded tasks helps me reduce the # of times i move between under the car n over the car

yea took me few days to write this up Ed during time off work and over a holiday :p
but at least i could now follow how to do it all efficiently step by step.

ok i'll check out the status of the engine once i get there to pick it up and re-jig the prep & swapping stages of the project plan
 

baguete

Site Supporter
There are specific oils for break-ins, but dont know brands, just know they must be rich in zinc and phosphorus. But its mineral oil, normal mineral oil should do just fine...
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
aye just looking back at me saved webpages on engine break-in they suggested only light grade good brand petroleum or mineral oil. dunno if the cheapo mineral halvoline down asda or mineral stuff in halfords would do for breaking-in, need to investigate
 
massive list well done and good luck dude :D

when you say depressureise system u dont just mean pull on fuel pipe and close eyes right?
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
massive list well done and good luck dude :D

when you say depressureise system u dont just mean pull on fuel pipe and close eyes right?
No, I meant pull out the fuel pump fuse while engines running till it stalls to relieve pressure outa the fuel system
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this is for you Zed

DSC04268.JPG


i was walkin to town and me naturally having a bad habit of micra spotting, spotted this one and thought ooh tis a nice clean one, looked round the back to see what reg n model it was. it was R-reg and thought of you when all of a sudden THUD! i walked straight into a lamp post soo hard i bruised above my eye and whacked the lamp ON:laugh: first time i ever done that
 
Last edited:

peposhi

Once I win the Euromillions...
Pollyp, you eat, sleep, breathe Micra (Y)(Y)(Y)
Where do you find time for the rest :laugh:

Good luck with the plan!!!(Y)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Pollyp, you eat, sleep, breathe Micra (Y)(Y)(Y)
Where do you find time for the rest :laugh:

Good luck with the plan!!!(Y)
Lol maybe when I'm on a mission and have a plan and a short given schedule, then I'll work on it till the end. But this turbo project has been quite a laid back pace to gather and plan stuff cos I had to wait till me insurance renews to change over. Come April when conversion begins, it'll be full steam ahead again
 

r-reg-sr

-------
Site Supporter
no persons have been injured during the production of this film??:laugh:
the SR looks very very clean--------sure you didnt spend an hour and half cleaning him to get me well and truly dazzled
mind yer head mate,,,,,was talking to shaun bout heads and lamposts not long ago:grinning:
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
it was well clean, hence the distracted double look and the inevitable comedy moment :p even the radiator fins were shiny n straight. had super s driving lights.

tis like some car ad, maybe micra? where the guys not distracted by the fine lass in the background but the micra in front :)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just estimated the scheduling for the conversion and according to my calcs if i was working flat out after finishing work at 6pm fri 1st april till midnight i would've taken dash out, wired up the boost & wideband gauge, removed minor bits.

saturday from 9am i would've removed, swapped and fitted the forged engine/lsd gearbox all ready for breakin-in after saturday midnight in country when traffics calm.

sunday 9am would've fitted the turbo, exhaust & rails by bout 4pm

then get exhaust welded on monday and Ed to tune on tues

i didn't think it could be done that fast but yeah seems like just a weekend job if everything goes smoothly, which it prob won't :)
 

Guy

Has gone over to the oily side...
Club Member
Just to add, I remember hearing somewhere NOT to use fully synthetic oil for the first few thousand miles of a car's life. The oil doesn't allow the rings to bed into the bores properly :).
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Just to add, I remember hearing somewhere NOT to use fully synthetic oil for the first few thousand miles of a car's life. The oil doesn't allow the rings to bed into the bores properly :).
yep only mineral/petroleum type
 
Paul came down yesterday to get the engine (yes, he drove the 6hours here, and he will be nearly home by now i guess!)
Was a pleasure to meet you mate! Looking forward to seeing that engine kicking out some serious power!!
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Paul came down yesterday to get the engine (yes, he drove the 6hours here, and he will be nearly home by now i guess!)
Was a pleasure to meet you mate! Looking forward to seeing that engine kicking out some serious power!!
Collect JE forged piston engine from Noddie

hey just got home with a aching numb bum after driving 6hrs 60mph non-stop to see how much mpg i could eek out of her.
good thing i decided to nap at noddies then drive home in daytime cos i can't imagine i'd endure the long trip back last night.

the results are fantastic. saturday morning filled up at asda and 1 tank just about got me there at 47mpg. filled up at some station in brighton for next day.
This morning i brimmed her up an extra 5L at BP to reset the milage test, station was on an incline so car is tilted right abit which prob allowed more fuel in. driving back home at 60 nonstop with an engine in the boot its done 53mpg! :eek: that's an all time record, must be a good batch.

Ed, lindsay n steward thanks soo much for all ur help n lettin me stay over :) well worth the long trip to have a try at TIG weldin, twas soo much easier n stable than arc or mig weldin. see ya soon
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
pics of the forged engine

DSC04269.JPG
DSC04270.JPG
DSC04271.JPG
DSC04272.JPG


head cover nicely held by some allen bolts

DSC04273.JPG


noticed there was alota dirt n grit gathered in the plug holes. don't want that falling into the freshly bored cylinders. so flipped engine upside down to blow it out

DSC04274.JPG


still some left round the spark plugs so taped a tube to a vac cleaner to suck it all out whilst engines on its side so no dirt could get in while plugs were taken out

DSC04275.JPG


coolent return pipe removed. noddie's takin it out once prob to get the block machined then put back on but o-ring will be replaced cos once they're disturbed they don't seal properly.

DSC04276.JPG


waterpumps fine and thermostat needs a flushing and testing

DSC04277.JPG


head cover off. ooh err nasty black gunk. gonna use the cleaned cover off the original turbo engine and clean up these bits.

DSC04279.JPG
DSC04278.JPG


valve train caked in old oil. i think i'll take the timing chain cover off to clean the parts thoroughly...actually thinking further. i could just swap all the parts off the turbo engine onto this forged engine since they're already sparkly cleaned, saves cleaning time.

DSC04280.JPG


rusty sump off

DSC04283.JPG
DSC04284.JPG


crank, rods n block are clean, just the other stuff that are caked

DSC04285.JPG


including the oil pump. so i think the general move is to replace all the gunked parts, except for the cams & buckets, with the shiny ones off the turbo engine

DSC04286.JPG


peak at the JE pistons

DSC04287.JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok i'm a little confused as to what oil to use for breakin-in and for how long cos ppl on this forum say the royal purple break-in oil is only for initial startups till the engine's warmed up then change to non-synth to bed-in for afew hundred miles before goin synthetic?

http://www.d-series.org/forums/engine-building/133504-royal-purple-break-oil.html

my initial plan was to start the new engine & bed it in with royal purple, change to 2nd batch of royal purple oil & filter (get rid of initial debris) and more bedding in before finally changing to me normal castrol gtx 10w40 & filter. but now the above link is confusing me bout the procedures
 
You don't mess about mate!! I would be in bed sleeping the drive off haha, or down the pub :D
That head ain't that bad, blimey:) It looked in good nick when we checked it over and the tolerances will all be right as they are... personally I don't think you need to clean it, its just a bit of oil staining, but that's just my opinion...
If you are going to change anything over it should be the pneumatic chain tensioner as that was the only bit we put back on that looked a little worn (still fine, but not perfect).
Sorry about the dirt in the plug holes:( did give them a blow out with the air line but obviously not enough...
 
Hi Pollyp
All the engines i have ever built or seen others build or seen new from the factory got straight forward engine oil then changed at 500miles for whatever oil and filter you prefer.

Malc
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I think I figured the 53mpg might be a glitch caused by the way I filled up at the BP station in Brighton.

Now normally the car is brimmed up on a flat level fuel station and I divide the miles covered by how much it took to brim the tank to calc the mpg.

The micro fuel tank I last noticed has an issue with air being trapped in the centre raised part so when filling on a level ground the tank is never 100% full, more like 95%.

When I filled up at BP with the car inclined to the right, the trapped air is allowed to travel across to the breather port which means more fuel than normal can enter before the nozzles overflow cutoff sensor is triggered. When the cars level again the fuel brim height is actually higher than normal.

Therefore when I fill up back at home on a level ground it takes alot less fuel to brim relative to the distance travelled hence appears the mpg has shot up.

At the BP station I filled up by an extra 4.41l after travellin 7miles from noddies house to the station. I know the car normally does 35-37mpg urban so prob just used bout 0.9l in the 7miles which means that the tank was overfilled by 3.5l and could make the mpg result go up from 47 to 53mpg.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
You don't mess about mate!! I would be in bed sleeping the drive off haha, or down the pub :D
That head ain't that bad, blimey:) It looked in good nick when we checked it over and the tolerances will all be right as they are... personally I don't think you need to clean it, its just a bit of oil staining, but that's just my opinion...
If you are going to change anything over it should be the pneumatic chain tensioner as that was the only bit we put back on that looked a little worn (still fine, but not perfect).
Sorry about the dirt in the plug holes:( did give them a blow out with the air line but obviously not enough...
Naa not tired after havin me tea and being on a mission to get this engine ready n prepped. I'm sure the tolerances are fine, just personally prefer to fit the cleaned bits off the turbo engine since i spent so long cleaning em and logically I may as well put the best bits on this forged engine.

The dirt in plugs could've came from anywhere during storage. Was just precaution to clean all ports before takin plugs out
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Hi Pollyp
All the engines i have ever built or seen others build or seen new from the factory got straight forward engine oil then changed at 500miles for whatever oil and filter you prefer.

Malc
Damn I already just brought 5quarts of the royal purple stuff off ebay. Shall I email em to double check if it's only for startup or for beddin in? Or return the stuff
 
Naa not tired after havin me tea and being on a mission to get this engine ready n prepped. I'm sure the tolerances are fine, just personally prefer to fit the cleaned bits off the turbo engine since i spent so long cleaning em and logically I may as well put the best bits on this forged engine.

The dirt in plugs could've came from anywhere during storage. Was just precaution to clean all ports before takin plugs out
Will you not have to re shim the cams and whatnot when you swap them? but its up to you mate.
are your cleaned up bits in good condition too then? I would go for condition rather than cleanliness if I were you as they will soon get dirty again eh:)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Will you not have to re shim the cams and whatnot when you swap them? but its up to you mate.
are your cleaned up bits in good condition too then? I would go for condition rather than cleanliness if I were you as they will soon get dirty again eh:)
i'm not swappin the cams n shims so they'll stay in spec, just gonna clean em up.
the turbo engine bits were in good condition, not much worn at 60k. i'll compare the the tensioners n chain n spocket between both engines n pick the healthiest one.
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
Those sill protectors are if im remebering correctly about twice the price of the original K11 ones. Chances are the K11 ones would still be available. (includes two doors and boot trim)

As you've said though, depends if you think they are needed...I only know as i ordered some for Whiteknights K11 in Australia.

Looks like you're working hard on the project. Keep at it haha.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
taking the turbo & forged engine apart

DSC04290.JPG


engine covers & turbo removed

DSC04294.JPG


sump, timing cover & valvetrain removed

DSC04291.JPG


the cleaned turbo engine valvetrain parts on the left

DSC04292.JPG


the mucky forged engine valvetrain parts on the right coated in sludge. some bolts were well sticky to remove

DSC04293.JPG


years of missed oil changes

DSC04295.JPG


head is sludged but the block n crank are fine

DSC04296.JPG


tomorrow will clean up the parts and reassemble the clean turbo bits over to the forged engine block
 
Last edited:

martinb

Ex. Club Member
paul, just fit the damn thing you nutter!!! i admire your courage but surely you must get sick of taking them apart:laugh:
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
haha i still have to wait till april to fit and may as well prep it perfectly beforehand with bits i already cleaned. only get one chance with this engine so may as well do it to the best of my ability. nah i luv takin things apart really :p
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
royal purple oil came tday

DSC04297.JPG


back label

DSC04298.JPG


bottle is 0.946L each so only have 4.73L. not enough for 2 break-ins. maybe either buy another 1quart bottle so i could do 2 oil changes with the stuff or change my break-in method to just 1 break-in session using royal purple then change filter and oil to normal mineral 10w40 from the remaining 1k miles before eventually moving back to my usual castrol gtx 10w40

hmm just figured that AAS exhaust where i'll get my exhaust welded actually sells royal purple so i could pick up a bottle then i'll be able to run the two break-in sessions.

btw castrol gtx says its part-synth, is that 50/50 mineral/synth or just mineral cos i heard of a legal thing in US bout oil terminology? i can't use this oil till its broken-in right?
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
woops tdays been a warm one and the hot glued gauge pods are slowly peeling off :p gotta epoxy em back on i guess
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
na just figured i should actually bond em on with PU sealant cos its tough n strong since the plastic pillar cover bends n flexes during removal
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
block & head cleaned, everything re-oiled with royal purple (the stuff seems thinner than normal oil, like baby oil), timing chain fitted

DSC04299.JPG


cams from forged engine & clean cam bearings from turbo engine fitted

DSC04300.JPG
DSC04301.JPG


bottom cleaned to fit sump

DSC04302.JPG


almost there. just need to wirebrush whole thing, paint n retap all threads

DSC04303.JPG
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Awesome what's the lph rating Paul? Not long now eh mate :)
Not sure what flow the gts-t pump is, one thread said bout 245?

Aye the days are ticking and I need to get bum into gear sorting all the small bits left, book exhaust weldin and remapping and get this damn gearbox garage to fit new bearings on my LSD which he's having issues waiting for from his supplier.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
before i could go wire brushing the forged engine i need to reassemble the turbo engine together otherwise all the bits left out will be coated in grit.
so block cleaned

DSC04304.JPG


timing cover on

DSC04306.JPG


nissan HG on

DSC04307.JPG


head & cams

DSC04308.JPG


forged engine left, turbo engine right

DSC04309.JPG


ripped the pods off the piller. hot glue stuck tightly onto pods so put em in freezer for couple hrs before smashin the brittle glue off

DSC04310.JPG
 
Last edited:
Top