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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
fuel filter came, made by nippon

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coolant pipe n pulleys painted

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block painted

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having difficulty with this oil feed plug thats seized on & completely rounded off with by easy-bolt-out and allen key. gonna have to try drill a hole n use an easy-out

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
right had a chat with AAS exhaust to weld the flange on exhaust for cat on 5th april morning. they didn't have royal purple break-in oil but'll check round UK if anyone has any.

then spoke to Ed and booked for remapping on 6th april 2pm.
i asked bout placing the wideband round 30cm away from the turbo and he says its fine.
i'll break-in the engine the usual way, fit turbo and keep off boost when driving down to surrey.

i mentioned bout remapping with 95ron and it must pass mot emissions but says it won't run as efficiently with normal fuel and with a stock cat he thinks it might barely be able to pass (suggested prob a bigger 200sx cat). so does that mean it'll prob drink fuel n not pass emissions?

maybe i'll leave 1/4 tank of 95ron before remap, see how that does (check emissions & 60mph injector duty). then change over to 98ron and test again?

...naa best to stick to 98ron i think for sake of safety and efficiency.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
skyline gts-t fuel pump arrived

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pump removed from frame

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remove this front cap

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the filter pickup is secured to the pump with a spring washer

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the gts-t pump is marked A42-T22 12V, 002 3924

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remove the pickup by prying off the spring washer with a flathead then just pull & rock the pickup off the pump

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micra pump vs skyline pump, looks exactly the same. only difference is the pickup filter.

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to remove the micra pump from the holder, take out this metal clip which holds the plastic casing together

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then spread the casing apart slightly and slide the pump out backwards

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remove the micra pickup

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micra pump marked A42-650016 12V, A42-201 N06

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micra pickup vs skyline pickup

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fit the micra pickup onto the skyline pump

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reassemble pump assembly & fit into tank

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during ignition there's only a slightly deeper hummmm, everything else is the same
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
universal sports filter arrived

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inside the filter

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compared to the puny motorcycle filter

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fitted onto TB for the time being, the top just bout misses the bonnet. won't be on there for long

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Stani1029

Club Member
regarding the allen bolt on the head, heat it up after making a deep indent in it with a thick flathead screwbit. has worked twice for me before but if you find a new way to do then the more ways the merrier! (Y)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
got it out. carefully drilled through the plug making sure no metal debris goes through then use a stud extractor. for once this tool was actually useful. turns out the plug has lock-tight holdin it in hence the difficulty of removing it.

the hole inside was full of sludge. had to scoop it out with screwdriver then flushed it clean by spraying carb cleaner inside with a straw

stan do you apply heat to the stud ur removing or the surrounding area, woulda thought you heat the surrounding metal to expand n loosen the threads away from the stud?

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not gonna clean the inlet mani since its not seen so just scrape clean the face

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realised i don't have an inlet mani gasket i just smeared some PU sealant on instead

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my mains socket fuse blew so wont be wirebrushin the engine cover till tomorrow
 
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Sorry mate, thought i had already got the oil gallery plug out once? otherwise we could have buzzed it out with my impact gun. Engine is looking very smart now mate!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
indeed but looked like the allen plugs been rounded off before, meh tis off now.

booked crane off hss hire. £39 for a weekend, added some random £2 RCD circuit breaker to bring the total just above £40 so the online £10 off discount drops it all down to £30 then getting it delivered is another £16. they phoned me to confirm and said a deposit of £129! is needed when delivered then they refund £83 when collected. i may as well just buy a crane with that sorta deposit.

anyway, just a week to go:grinning:
 

NeX

You're after my robot bee
Club Member
i just want to say, this is the most beautiful thing i have ever seen! you are a man after my own heart! your attention to detail and determination are inspiring, and i love the way you take apart old stuff to see what its like inside. great work, i wish there were more people like you in the world, micras would be much happier cars!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
aw thx so much nex, i treasure ur kindness:grinning:
i work on pollymobile driven with a deep passion and always try to do my best. i like stuff to be thoroughly clean n well oiled to work smoothly. luv taking things apart (destructly or non-destructively) to learn how they're suppose to function and the skill of reassembling em to work perfectly.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2nd coat of hammerite red dried

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carefully wirebrushed the letters with dremel.
was gonna laquer the cover to protect the letters from rust but meh, didn't wanna spoil the glossy red finish

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cover fitted

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most bits fitted onto engine to see if anymore fittings are needed

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just checked if the new filter would fit on the end of the turbo inlet pipe in the bay but turns out its so big it'll only fit at 45deg in this area with the washer filler pipe removed

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trying to pry the pintle caps off the 256 injectors was no good

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after few frustrating attempts to get it off in one piece i thought oh fec it just cut the shaft off to punch the cap off evenly.
gettin this cap off intact for the 370 injector is 1st priority, maintaining a set of the 256 injectors to maybe sell em on afterwards is least of my concern.

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whats inside the pintle

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pintle needle that moves up/down

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found the head of a tyre pressure gauge fits the shaft nicely so applying even pressure around the plastic cap lip

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place a flathead screwdriver on the face of the pintle tip, gentle tap with hammer n the shaft just pops through

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swap pintle cap over to 370 injector n tap back on with a socket (must be slightly slack fitting to allow the groove in the plastic cap to expand slightly as its pushed into the pintle)

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found the side-feed basket filter can slip off

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new o-rings fitted. spray abit of wd40 on a finger n smear abit only onto the o-rings then when installing just push & turn the injectors and it should slide nicely into the fuel rail.

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might as well see whats inside the wrecked 256 injector

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
argh tdays been such a frustating one.

first this gearbox place ran by a monkey STILL hasn't sorted my lsd yet :mad:
first 2weeks was waiting for bearing from supplier and 1week each day kept saying he'll do it by the evening but breaking his promise cos he had to pop out. his assistant monkey said he'll def do by tomorrow, yea right. i'm normally a calm patient polite guy but 3 weeks for a 10min job is really ticking me off. if not done tomorrow i'm taking my diff back not paying anything, order bearings from matt for next day and goto another specialist for a rapid fitting.

extra 1L lsd oil came

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the 2nd frustration is I started to drill out the stuck bolt on the gearbox

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aiming straight enough

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but my mistake was i attempted to undo it with a bolt extractor (tried to preheat the stud with me tiny blowtorch but thick metal just sucks the heat away) it never budged and to my stupidity i overdid it and this happens. ARGHHHH

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why didn't i just drill out n retap the stud like normal. now the job is even more impossible. tried everything to get the extractor back out like drilling(harden steel extractor just blunts the tip), nudge clockwise with a centrepunch, cut a groove across the exposed face n use an flathead impact driver (just mashes the metal), nothing works :(

only resort to think of is to redrill another hole in the middle?

and weather forcast says rain on weekend which is not good
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i dunno if i'll be accurate enough with the arc welder to not weld the the stud to the casing itself. best let the machine shop fix it i think for another extra fee
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok gearbox is at machine shop and guy will tell me at lunch whether its worse case and he needs to weld a bolt onto the stud n retap.

meanwhile that gearbox place is not picking up the phone, prob opens at 10am, but if they don't do it by 1pm i'm gonna have to grab back the diffs, buy the bearings off him, cut the old bearing cage off myself to get the speedo gear and either see if the Mech Eng dept at uni here has a hydraulic press n do it myself tomorrow lunch or get another machine shop to press it on for me and swap the crown wheel.

timing to sort these issues out are tight n desperately running out
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
thx mark. ooooh that cover's nice :)

ok found my uni workshop has a press and found a bearing shop selling the diff bearing for £44 a pair.

so plan is grab my diff back from the lazy garage, buy bearing off bearing shop, extract the speedo gear off the stock diff and press the new bearings & speedo onto LSD in workshop. just can't afford another delay
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Finally!! its sorted.

rang this morning, spoke to some generic guy bout getting this diff ready by lunch. he said oh i dunno you prob need to speak to ian bout that when he's back bout next hrgrr

i popped over at lunch, spoke to one of the dumb helpers in there who were just dwaddling around.
is me diff done? he looked puzzled, shrugged, said boss will be back soon.

said Right i cant wait any longer I want my diffs back. bloke doesn't know where it is. ah c'mon you can't miss it, i looked around. asked so when is ian gonna come back, he shrugged again standin there, oh ffsgrr

meanwhile ian walked back in, So it the diff ready? oh yea yea tis over here:glare: my pressure cooker calmed abit.
inspected diff and looks fine. he's typing the receipt and was bout £45, great just £1 above the cost of a new set of bearings down the road.

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i'm kinda relieved its done but what a farce
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
another good news is the machine shop managed to sort out the seized stud/snapped extractor on the gearbox for £54
 

NeX

You're after my robot bee
Club Member
aw thx so much nex, i treasure ur kindness:grinning:
i work on pollymobile driven with a deep passion and always try to do my best. i like stuff to be thoroughly clean n well oiled to work smoothly. luv taking things apart (destructly or non-destructively) to learn how they're suppose to function and the skill of reassembling em to work perfectly.
i think thats a great attitude to have, like when you took apart the oil cooler, i have never really thought or cared what was in an oil cooler, but as soon as the picture was up i was studying it intently, it was actually interesting to see someone i had never seen before, and the silencer too, that was very interesting.

i am liking the look of this turbo work, i wish i had the money!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
which oil cooler? this blogs getting so long i forgot what i've done :p
or ya mean oil filter?

my money banks running out rapidly this year
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
45deg elbow for air filter

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machine shop did a fab job of sorting the bolt hole

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lsd with speedo n bearing fitted

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installed into gearbox

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gearbox all wirebrushed

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painted

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gauge pods bonded on with PU sealant, hope its tough enough

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
very close. hope i finish this piller pod in time.

need to figure out in haynes diagram which circuit to wire into to power the wideband and light up the gauges

aas exhaust ordered in some break-in oil, they have a box of it now so i'll buy 2 more quarts to be sure i'll have enough for 2 runs
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Just looked through the wiring diagrams and figured i'll power the wideband controller from the blue/green 15amp rear demister circuit since its never used. Sunroof is powered off the orange/blk 15amp cig lighter circuit. Boost gauge backlight will run off the red/blue sidelight circuit.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
could someone confirm for me the correct way to start & bed in this fresh engine. do I:
A- prime oil/fuel, start engine, check timing & leaks, immediately idle while stationary with no load at 2k for 20mins to bed the rings. turn off and change to 2nd batch of breakin oil. prime & start engine then drive straight out, gentle driving till the engines warmed up before bedding the rings in countryside till 500miles then change to normal oil.

B- prime oil/fuel, start engine, check timing & leaks, immediately drive straight out, gentle driving till the engines warmed up before bedding the rings in countryside for 75miles. return back to change oil & filter for 2nd break-in till 500miles. then change to normal oil.

soo many confusing ways various websites are saying i dunno which method to trust. gonna ring Ed just to be sure
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Thx will. Ok project going along nicely. Dash is out. Wired the gauge to illum circuit. Boost pipe routed. Now routing and wiring the wideband
 
Personal preference.... like pollyp had said there is so much different information regarding running in an engine that it's hard to say what's right for [bold]your[/bold] engine, after all engines do vary in age and general condition regardless of being rebuilt or not
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Thx guys. I'm shattered now but is on schedule. I'm upto the stage of removing the alternator. Post pics later
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
dash stripped out

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vacuum pipe fed through here

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inside it routes over across the heater

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across the drivers side

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and up the piller

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wiring the gauge backlight into the demister buttons illum circuit

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wideband controller tied in place

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through the arch

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all wired up, took abit longer than i thought

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all fluids drained

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filter, injectors, dizzy & TB removed
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Forgot to mention I wired the lc-1 controller and xd-16 gauge to be powered from the 10amp red/blk interior light circuit since they only require least 5amp fuse and the feed is local...

Ahh crap. I just realized i wired the wideband to a constant 12v rather than an ignition switched 12v. Grr will have to rewire it :( human electronics error
 

baguete

Site Supporter
Forgot to mention I wired the lc-1 controller and xd-16 gauge to be powered from the 10amp red/blk interior light circuit since they only require least 5amp fuse and the feed is local...

Ahh crap. I just realized i wired the wideband to a constant 12v rather than an ignition switched 12v. Grr will have to rewire it :( human electronics error
Just wire it to ignition switch, thats what i have done. Then just rotate the key to ON and wait till the wideband light stays on (not blinking), then start the engine.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Ow my back n legs r wasted. Working 9am till 1am is taking its toll but i must drive on. Thought i'd get the new engine ready to run tonight but that was ambitious. New engine n box is in, exhaust fitted, driveshafts & loom on. I think it'll be running tomorrow night for break-in then fit turbo on monday before welding exhaust on tues. Timings gonna be tight.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
here's the pics martin, was too exhausted to upload last night.

manifold off, everything disconnected

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front end removed

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now before friday i ordered a 500kg folding crane £39 for the weekend, with a £2 mains power breaker to apply the online £10-off discount for orders over £40. hss phoned me to confirm order, said delivery would add another £16 & mentioned an ID and deposit of £129 was required upon delivery.

friday afternoon my parents at home rang me that the delivery guy said the deposit was £270!? what the helllllll? i went through each cost and seemed to be a mixup. so i rang up hss to sort it out n pay the hiring with me card rather than via deposit.

it turns out that they didn't have a 500kg crane but instead sent me a 2000kg crane that was available and the system charged me for both cranes :/ sorted the issue and the guy said he'll lower the cost of a weekend hiring to a single day hire for me. the delivery was actually £16 each way.

so the result is £35 to hire this massive crane for a weekend, £2 for the circuit breaker, £32 for delivery to/from home and subtotal tax brings it all to £80. bit more than i expected, damn hidden costs.

Right, engines ready to move. upon shifting the crane in place i discovered a major issue, the massive 2ton crane is just too tall for the garage door :doh:

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dad suggested putting wheels back on n roll the car abit further out for the crane to reach. no way i'm doin that cos will take time n effort to fit the driveshafts & wheels. or even if i just fit the wheels the wheel bearing would potentially pop out. i'm not gonna take that risk

so drastic action was needed. the shutters outer cover was riveted on, so i drilled the rivets out n removed the covers. this gave me JUST enough room to push the crane in & lift an engine out, literally rubbing under the rollers when the engine was lifted n pushed it out:eek:

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engine finally out

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split box out. now found out whats possibly causing the really heavy clutch. i smeared grease on the release bearing sleeve and has collected clutch dust over the yrs causing a highly frictional sludge layer

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jun flywheels ok. stock clutch had worn a slight crater but tis fine. don't have time to consider getting it machined flat, the helix pad clutch would prob wear it flat anyway

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helix clutch fits fine within the worn crater

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little tip i saw online bout applying locktight. rather than smear it on the bolt and it gets squeezed out while screwing em in, use a cotton bud to smear the locktight into the threaded hole so its evenly applied when tightening the bolts

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flywheel on new engine

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clutch centred on PP & fitted

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clips fitted on release bearing

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the clutch was soo heavy cos of the sludged grease on the release bearing sleeve that the clips had worn through. meh

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used dry graphite powder this time

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another damn issue. the mechanical speedo didn't wanna fit into the gearbox:eek: the gearbox hole & electronic speedo was 36.75mm dia while the mechanical speedo was 37mm:doh:

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nothing a hand file couldn't fix:p

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next stupid issue is that there's absolutely no room to try remove the neutral switch cos of a damn nearby ribbing. so out came the angle grinder

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intercooler fitted

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tried drilling the access hole underneath for the 19mm socket using a wood holesaw i found. obviously not for metal, it cuts the first hole but burnt out on the second hole. and then i figured why didn't i use my new stepped drill bit that went upto 20mm. it did it with ease and was also a fab milling bit enlarging the hole cos the 19mm socket was bout 25mm dia

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new engine & box assembled

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ready to crane up

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craned in this beauty

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exhaust n driveshaft n loom fitted

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