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PollyMobiles Rebuild

martinb

Ex. Club Member
well done mate :) awesome news, i wiuld howvever not bothered with the crane, i did mine quicker lifting one out over the crossmember and heaving the new one than a engine hoist, it is easier though i guess but the cost of renting was not an option for mefwn

have you much left to do? knowing what your like(from your blog) your be doing it now i bet

so the forged engine is gonna be slow and sluggish with the low compression right?

your doing very well paul keep it up, i want that engine!!ha ha

keep us updated mate:)
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
Good Job :)

Crane was a very tight fit lol.

Does look like it makes it easier...I jacked the whole shell up at the front and slid (which took awhile) it in under the crossmember, then lifted it up.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hey guys. haven't been updating cos was working 110%. turbo fitted but i'm having afew issues so i'll have to delay the exhaust welding and remap for a day or two cos i'm just completely broken after workin 16hrs/day for past 4days, tis just too much.

the issues with turbo at the mo:
-can't burn turbo map onto nistune, only write it temporarily when ign on
-the turbo nistune board won't work with my ecu, prob nats (no engine light, no fuel pump, injectors clicking at random)
-massive misfiring & limited rev when reving quick n hard or it misfires above 3k when reving gradually. idles fine.
-i think its the 370 injectors causing the misfire cos plugs r black n black smoke comes out when reving. tried to resize injectors in nistune map but same problem and i dunno how to work nistune tbh
-no boost at all when reving
-backbox is positioning wayyyy off. need to bash hangers about

i'll need to ring ed bout how to fix this nistune issue tomorrow, then move remap to another day and rebook the exhaust shop

i'll post pics once i've recovered
 
Good luck with getting it sorted and hopefully Ed will be able to help you with your nistune issues..... Now go bed and get some rest
 

baguete

Site Supporter
To burn the final map to NIStune ECU you need to have the key on ON position (engine off), then sync the map to ECU (NIStune to ECU), then click on BURN (on the NIStune software). Then you can try to resize injectors (option on software), just give old cc value and new cc value, and click ok to adjust the load scalers. You can do it realtime, and check the AFR's, but to burn it you need to have the engine off with key on. Its a common error for people that dont know how to use NIStune software, its hard on the beginning, but it gets easier as you use it.

Do you have all the pipework connected? It should make some boost when reving, not much, but the boost gauge should show something. Is the BOV working properly? What AFR's are you getting on the gauge? Or you just have the Lambda sensor on the exhaust atm? You could connect the narrowband wire of the wideband circuit (analog output) to the middle wire on the stock lambda loom so it emulates the narrowband signal and see the wideband gauge working too (and removing the lambda sensor).

Hope it helps mate.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
To burn the final map to NIStune ECU you need to have the key on ON position (engine off), then sync the map to ECU (NIStune to ECU), then click on BURN (on the NIStune software). Then you can try to resize injectors (option on software), just give old cc value and new cc value, and click ok to adjust the load scalers. You can do it realtime, and check the AFR's, but to burn it you need to have the engine off with key on. Its a common error for people that dont know how to use NIStune software, its hard on the beginning, but it gets easier as you use it.

Do you have all the pipework connected? It should make some boost when reving, not much, but the boost gauge should show something. Is the BOV working properly? What AFR's are you getting on the gauge? Or you just have the Lambda sensor on the exhaust atm? You could connect the narrowband wire of the wideband circuit (analog output) to the middle wire on the stock lambda loom so it emulates the narrowband signal and see the wideband gauge working too (and removing the lambda sensor).

Hope it helps mate.
hey. what i did was start nistune, IGN on, open address, select K11 bin, start consult connection, sync from ECU to see whats currently on it, where you select the main mapping dropdown list i click open, select the turbo map i extracted from the other ecu, once open i click burn to EEPROM, confirm ok, now at this point it randomly either says their was a mismatch of the mapping and cancelled the burn or it burned ok. once burned, with the IGN still on i resync from ECU to check its transferred over and it has. starting the car would run it on the turbo map BUT when i turn off IGN then back on again, resync from ECU, its shows me old janspeed remap!?

so its only writing over temporarily whether i Sync To ECU or Burn to ECU

the resize injectors menu also occasionally shows the mismatched mapping error message, no difference in running

btw when i prime the turbo oil feed, at starter cranking speed with plugs out, the oil coming out the drain and onto the bucket is like a trickling tap. is that right or should it be gushing like a normal tap?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the wideband is not working yet cos A- the reason why the turbo elbow bung was plugged is cos its too close facing the back of intercooler so the lambda had to fit on the second bung on the downpipe, the wideband bung will need to be welded further down the pipe. and B- haven't got round to sorting wiring yet
 

baguete

Site Supporter
Never had problems with NIStune sync. Try to do like this:

Consult cable connected on car and pc
Turn Key to ON
Open NIStune software
Turn ON Consult on software (it should load the K11 address file automatically)
Open Turbo map BIN file
Sync NIStune to ECU
Burn
Start the engine
Resize injectors and check if it still does black smoke (you must sync it again to make changes)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hey at the hours of desperation i figured it out and twas what you mentioned above. sync TO ecu first and then Burn to eeprom and the settings stayed there. engines running after alota tinkering but not very well, it stalls at idle so always have to blip to keep it alive especially whilst braking which is tricky(heel & toe helps). plus there's afew oil leaks guessing its the turbo oil drain and rear crank seal

to anyone out there i would not recommend doin what i did, under-estimating the project timescale to 3days, book the exhaust shop on 4th day and remap on 5th then sticking to that deadline no matter what. and then cram essentially 2 working weeks of work into just 3days straight. its not smart, things do go wrong delaying the process and is stressful.

i miraculously got the car to aas exhaust to fix the wideband & cat, almost didn't happen cos they're busy next few days and i only had this afternoon to make it. phoned ed to cancel tomorrows remap to next week cos i need to fix the leaking crank seal. he mentioned i was cutting this project timescale way too tight. so i'm gonna step back abit taking my time now

ok lemme upload pics and will tell ya alll about the insane drama these past few days
 

baguete

Site Supporter
Yes mate, its a big project for such small amount of time, you can see by me, doing it for several weeks (but i didnt had all the parts at once, im waiting for the pipework, but all the other stuff is wired/installed/working, and after that i just need the remap).

Just get the low compression engine working, then start to install other stuff, like the intercooler, Wideband, gauges, etc... And at the end, the turbo and pipework, remap at the end of all. And you will need to check everything before taking the next step, thats why i installed the low compression engine, tested it for almost one month (had the oil leak from the HG, and still have tiny leak, but i wont worry with it), then started to gather the other parts. This way you can check if everything you are installing is properly done. If anything goes wrong, just take a step backwards and do it again. I have the car stopped because im missing the pipework, but i prefered to have the car running atm.

Keep it easy and relax, things need time, dont rush it mate, good things happen to people that can wait. (Y)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Sunday

new PAS cooler

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trim the rad fan to sit closer to the rad & clear the turbo inlet

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melted n moved the mounts with heatgun

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trim more off the rear edge

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need to move reg plate up to allow IC to cool via alot of dremelling to make the face flush. had to redrill new holes lower down for the reg

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fuel filter

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front end assembled

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resprayed dash black

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before starting the car i decided to ask dad to drive in his car out into country to find an empty, long, flat road and to assess the traffic on the road. was all clear so time to start the engine.

nervous as ever.
oil primed. fuel took awhile to prime.
pushed the car out the garage, round the alley bend so i can just start her and immediately set off.
starts fine, checked theres no leaks etc and off we go.

drive normally towards the country road. once engines warmed, progressively rev in 2nd gear 2-4k rpm with 25% throttle afew times then 2-5k rpm with 50% throttle then 4-7k with 100% throttle then 2-7k rpm. god its quick :D

big surprise is the LSD. slow speed when cold it clicks slighty and steering is really heavy.
normally after turning a bend you can just let go the steering and it'll slowly straighten up with little force. with an LSD it strongly wants to straighten up due to the high preload.
when turning slowly, I have to fight and hold the wheel firmly and if i let go it would flick back rapidly.

but the biggest shock is the transition between acceleration & lift.
during break-in when i switch from 100% throttle to 0% quickly, the diff would lock and i would get a consistant steering n drive through corners.
but if i try to feather the throttle mid-corner it would switch slowly from 100% lock (accelerating) to open diff (neutral) to 100% lock (decelerating), you could hear the LSD ramps clunk & jerk between stages and this really upsets the handling becoming unpredictable.
lots of steering correction holding on for dear life, keeps you awake though:p
learnt to slow to a speed and just hold the throttle/load so the diff stays stable in one state.

after 25miles think i've bothered the residents enough. return back n change to 2nd royal purple and do it again:p
at 75mile it was getting late and had a turbo to fit next day so headed back. i thought i read that the first 10miles for a fresh engine are the most important and if the rings are not mostly broken-in by then, it prob never will.

changed to castrol gtx 10w40 ready for turbo

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checked the cylinders with me endoscope to assess the hone marks. tis alright, still abit deep eh

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all pistons have a slightly oily centre, prob from walls retaining the oil

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plugs look fine so it's burning normal with no smoke

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Monday
a manifold nut had rattled off

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oil leak between engine & box, dunno where its coming from. fearing its either input shaft seal or crank seal

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janspeed off

turbo mani on

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issue with rad fan support

abit of dremelling

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lower bracing is blocking the turbo outlet

angle grinded off

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turbo to IC piping done

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the GTIR turbo elbow was blocked off cos its too close to the IC for any sensor. moved the lamda sensor to the downpipe.

turbo drain

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tried to fit alternator bracket on but piping was in the way so some furious angle gridings needed

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alternator back casing touching the turbo elbow so took it off. will be ablit toasty

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cutting the silicon pipes cleanly with a jubilee clip

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air filter sorted

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janspeed system vs turbo exhaust

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back box is a right pita to slot between the axle & chassis & tank. ended up lifting the left axle beam, lift the right side of chassis, undo the damper and remove panhard rod to fit the box only to find its sitting 1-2" too far left :mad:

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ok tried to update nistune with turbo map but its not saving it onto the board so will have to export to ecu every time i turn on IGN.
struggled to start cos of the bigger 370 injectors. ploom of black rich smoke out back when reving. misfiring really badly. when i kickdown the throttle it stutters n pauses n misfires. misfires after 3k :( no chance of going back to 256 injectors.

exhaust welding was due next day but with all these issues, looked like i'd have to skip it and tbh i'm propper exhausted n sad it didn't work out so well

Tuesday

after reading up abit on resizing injector within nistune last night, i tried resizing the injector multiplier from 340 to 257, no difference, idles fine but stutters under load. saw a guy try 197 multiplier for his 370 injectors, revs smoothly now but stutters at WOT and stalls at idle whatever the idle bleed screw setting, like the IAV is shut and injectors running lean. tried 240 and idles ok, just have to blip the throttle i guess.

rang exhaust shop bout rescheduling, they're busy in next few days but 2pm tday is fine. OK sort out the backbox & reassemble by 2pm.

tried to bash one of the offending support arms to straighten the box but think its fractured at the dodgy weld point so removed the rubber hanger n pull it over with ziptie

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rad fan blowing hot air at the BOV so moved to the other side

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mad rush getting everything ready in time. start her up, had to blip to get her going. drive out the street and it dies under load.
Bah, so tweeked the injectors to a leaner 200 multiplier, tis drivable but not perfect. was about to give in with this problem but decided to plough onwards

eventually got there, trying to keep boost low. luv the swoosh n pfff

car was dribbling oil, guy not impressed with the dodgy exhaust, wont touch it. to fit the wideband he'll have to make a new downpipe with the flanges for the cat. won't touch the odd mounted backbox with the cracked hanger cos he doesn't work with that brand?

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downpipe made. some amazing lookin pipework, gorgeous.

was chatting that i broke the engine in to bout 100miles now, he said tis not barely long enough, needs to be 1000-1500miles till its bedded in and switching to semi-synth GTX doesn't help. so will have to change back to the break-in oil to continue beding, brought 3 more bottles. overall cost £160

back home it leaks badly

from turbo drain

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and under gearbox somewhere

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ordered new rear crank seal off nissan £26 for thurs morning. gonna try take out the box with engine in place next
 
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martinb

Ex. Club Member
Man you've been busy!! Well done Paul for cracking on mate, hope you fix the oil leak soon

Are you still going to see Ed for mapping or you doing yourself?

Glad your enjoying the turbo, Tis great eh ;)

Have you spoke with Ed with regards to breaking in forged engine? He may give you different answers to exhaust man?

Keep it up mate
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
You've been busy i'll give you that :)

Hope the oil leak isnt to bad / hard to fix...crank seal is really easy to do, input shaft would be the most annoying as you'll have to take apart the gearbox again.

Thought you were gonna say exhaust place had turned you away completely haha, glad you got the pipe sorted ok. They dont like fitting other companies stuff -- not worth the hassle to them, and any bad weld job would come back to them...so maybe thats why they wouldnt weld the hanger on.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Martin: yep still goin to ed for remap, just need to sort out leak and bed in rings more beforehand.

Regards to methods, ed says its personal pref, he just drives it. The exhaust guy says go gentle n low revs for 1000 miles.

Baguete: wideband is fitted, just need to sort out wiring.

Solarice: the rear crank seal looks like i have to remove sump in order to remove the crank seal holder? Gonna try franks method of removing box with engine in place. Wonder i could support the engine with no box attached and no sump? Maybe hang it from above.

Makes sense what ya say bout aas not touching the dodgy exhaust.

K rear crank seal has arrived. Lets get this box off
 

Ian

Ex. Club Member
PollyP: Awesome project, where are you based? Mind if I take a look sometime? Trying to gain idea's about how I can do a similar project.
 

martinb

Ex. Club Member
Good read, thanks for that good find, I'd follow that seems spot on :)

It's true 540,000 revolutions with surely reduce high points lol
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Lowrider thats pretty much how i did mine.

Ok gearbox is off. What a friggin mission cos i left the driveshafts in, it catches on the splashplate. Hard to lever em off the box cos the support tray and block of wood was in the way but i got there after much swearin. Clutch & flywheel are dry n fine. Flywheel off an yea looks like the crank seal lip has perished. Replacing now
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
PollyP: Awesome project, where are you based? Mind if I take a look sometime? Trying to gain idea's about how I can do a similar project.
Hi i'm based in north east near middlesbrough. We could meetup sometime after i'm finished at maybe a local carpark like halfords?
 
Lowrider thats pretty much how i did mine.

Ok gearbox is off. What a friggin mission cos i left the driveshafts in, it catches on the splashplate. Hard to lever em off the box cos the support tray and block of wood was in the way but i got there after much swearin. Clutch & flywheel are dry n fine. Flywheel off an yea looks like the crank seal lip has perished. Replacing now
Worth asking frank but pretty sure we replaced it...
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
lsd oil drained, gonna reuse it during break in

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lotsa shards

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starter coated in oil

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the lovely SS downpipe

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pipes removed

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box unhooked ready

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engine supported with wood and box supported on dolley to slide out

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shafts removed from hubs

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box separated from engine but the shafts were caught on the splash plate. tried to refit the box back onto the engine to pry off the shafts but was hard so i slide the dolley far forward in order to pry the shafts off with flathead. box removed.

clutch assembly seems dry

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flywheels fine

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clutch is dry too. but the lack of contact with flywheel is prob why its slipping abit at junctions. i know i should remachine the fly but at this stage i cant be bothered paying anymore for labour and it'll wear in eventually. long as it still works.

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there's the problem, crank seal lip is perished

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stuck flathead through the soft lips and pryed it off

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new crank seal fitted

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flywheel cleaned & fitted. left out the plate cos its a pain to fit with box. lets cool air through clutch i suppose as i think frank mentioned before

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clutch wearing flat with PP but the flywheel surface is convexed. will take awhile to get 100% bite

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fitted

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bellhousing degreased and thrust bearing regreased

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lift box back on dolley to try slot back in but its not having it. the darkness doesnt help. we tried 10 times to slot it in but somethings not matching and my back is straining from lifting at the awquid angle. do it tomorrow

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Ian

Ex. Club Member
I had an ASS system many moons ago, always do nice looking work (even if some of it isnt very functional). I work in Hartlepool so I guess meeting up wouldn't be too far to go :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Are you sure it was the crank seal that was leaking? we did replace it i remember...
Thats the only place i believe oil could leak out off and be flung along the back of the fly to coat the bellhousing. And looking closely at the lower section of the seal lips against the crank it was all jaggy n broken where oil would leak past the gaps that were not sealin to the surface as tightly
 

solarice

Ex. Club Member
Yeah was gonna say you can prise it out, but you've done it already :D

Gearbox takes some jiggling to get it on (i find swearing helps on occasion), just try not to let it hang on the input shaft while youre fitting as thats supposed to be bad haha.

Wont be long now :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Yeah was gonna say you can prise it out, but you've done it already :D

Gearbox takes some jiggling to get it on (i find swearing helps on occasion), just try not to let it hang on the input shaft while youre fitting as thats supposed to be bad haha.

Wont be long now :)
Yea Huge amounts of swearing, cut & bruised hands n arms, bruised head on edge of gearbox when was laying down in dark, and strained back...and more swearing! Lol

Yea i had to abort the procedure several times n pull back out when it didnt go in cos straining the input shaft on the plate is a bad thing. Took forever but its finally in :)
 

r-reg-sr

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Site Supporter
hard schedule man
i bet you forgot fluffy cuffs for turbo work
non fluffycuff for non turbo:grinning:
 

Stani1029

Club Member
I normally stand over the engine and pull the gearbox up when refitting. Normally get it first time unless the #### shield gets in the way!
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Naa, bare hands reg, maybe the odd vinyl glove but they dont last long.

Stan i balanced the box on a jack n slowly line her up n jiggle in. Shield left off, saves me the hassle next time
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
after much swearing the box was in

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other leak was from the turbo drain. inside is a conical seal

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the adapter was simply grinded off roughly so no wonder it leaked. looked around few places for a matching reducer adapter but the thread size was of an abnormal combi so only option was to use a copper washer. eventually was told to goto speedyhire bout the washers and the guy just gave me 3 various size copper washers for free :) must be not worth peanuts to them

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used washer with matching inner bore and had to dremel the outer edge slightly to fit

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fitted

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exposed flywheel :) least i'll be able to see if its leaking again

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wideband wired up
started her up. runs real rich i suppose cos everything behind the exhaust pipe is just coated in this thick black soot lol. idle mixture is mostly round 14 but occasionally it would go 10-12 or i blip then the IAV closes and it goes wayyy lean to 19afr and thats when it starts to stall and i have to blip it back up.
gearbox or clutch is a little rattly when cold and goes away when the clutch is down or gearbox heated up.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Ah FFS! The issues still not fixed :mad: oil drain still leakin. Oil still leakin out back of engine. And clutch slips after 3k rpm at 5psi. I'm almost given up with these issues :(
At a guess i wonder if its the sump thats leaking cos all round the sump lip is a touch of oil?

Booked remap for wed but i'm not sure
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Taking the sump off. The copper washer i put in the turbo drain didnt even touch the cone seal inside so i believe the reducer adapter thats cut short is actually sealing at where the threads end or even against the rough edge of the turbo casting hence the likelihood of leakage. Either thicken the copper washers till it squeezes against the sealing cone or use central heating white seal tape?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok sump taken off, some parts of sealant on the sides could be peeled off so maybe the metal was slightly greasy, and the U-surface that presses on the rubber seals under the crank seal only had a very thin layer.

so this time applying a generous amount of sealant in a zigzag rather than a thin straight bead

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i took out the turbo drain adapter screwed onto the sump and applied sealant onto the sealing surfaces & retighten really hard just to be sure it'll def seal

carefully positioned sump onto engine and only finger tight the sump bolts for few mins so there's a thicker layer of sealant to harden slightly, then after 30mins i hand tighten them to apply some pressure squeezing abit but not all of the sealant out the side

i filed the 3 copper washers til they're small enough to fit inside the turbo thread hole. screwed them into the turbo hand tight, them em back out and see if the conical seal has made an impression on the washer. it did, gr8 so now i reinsert and tighten all the way. i could feel a medium resistance as the copper washers are being compressed into the turbo's conical seal and then get real tight when they're fully sealed

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lets wish it works
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
its worked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:grinning::grinning::grinning:

turbo oil leak has gone and it turned out to be a sump leak, thats gone too. and the idle stalling issue, i played with the injector latency from 790 to 990, the afr goes richer and it runs sooo much better and doesn't stall. soo over the moon.
gonna go for a long city drive now to wear in the clutch, engine n diff(Y)
 
paul that noise ytou can hear is whats happeneing to mine... where its loud when cold then get better when warm and goes completely when clutch is pressed... how does it sound going along? unless you cant hear it through the zaust

buttt ive been told the main bearings in the g/box
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
paul that noise ytou can hear is whats happeneing to mine... where its loud when cold then get better when warm and goes completely when clutch is pressed... how does it sound going along? unless you cant hear it through the zaust

buttt ive been told the main bearings in the g/box
The clutch/gear noise is gone now, prob cos the box was dry and needed few miles to circulate the oil. The lsd plates do chatter slighty when on full lock from cold but once everythings warmed up its quiet.
 
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