Today I got these to renew the discs and pads they look pretty good.
Soon to be fitted.
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Soon to be fitted.
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If you do find one, you may well be able to just swap the front panel and knobs over, negating the necessity to disconnect and refit the control cables.......Since I'm still searching this part I thought I'd show this.
The front is very similar and looks slightly better from nv200 Note and duke.
Viable mod possibly.
View attachment 65122
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Just the thought, flash from the past, almost 3 years ago...If you do find one, you may well be able to just swap the front panel and knobs over, negating the necessity to disconnect and refit the control cables.......
What I didn't mention (or probably didn't even realise) then, Mika, is that the thin panel, with the dial markings on, surrounding the knobs, also just unclips, after the knobs are removed, and can be changed over. I do rather like that Note panel, a big improvement over the original.Just the thought, flash from the past, almost 3 years ago...
Heater control knobs
Anyone else on here positively hate the white 'Belling Cooker' heater control knobs? I think it must be a 'Marmite' thing, but I really think they look awful. Found this on ebay, for the princely sum of £9.99 including carriage Now that's better (the knobs just pull off and can be...www.micra.org.uk
Well my Note panel has just arrived and other than the style of the front plastic panel and knobs it is absolutely identical to the Micra K12 one.......(I have the spare K12 panel that I took the black knobs off of when I replaced the white 'Belling Cooker' style ones, to compare it to)......I'm looking to replace the front part as when I test fitted the one I bought recently it seemed to free the button movement.
But my problem is the plastic bellow the button or behind is shorter than everything else I can see.
It even appears that somebody cut them shorter in the past to make one fit but that seems to cause them to stick.
If you check the images above it says made in France on the label.
And everything on the mech side is white then the connector is clear.
I'm only really trying to make function without the use of a flathead screwdriver to turn them back off.
It was great all but the plastic panel with the cigar socket was not able to clip into place.
So I have reverted back to how it was in first place until I get one.
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Well this is the Micra K12 unit that I have...I must have the only micra in the whole of Europe that does not have a standard heater control.
it may not be the original I would maybe need to ask the garage where it came from. Do they have any information about what has been changed.
The unit I bought may have been dead on arrival all I know is it did not power up. Would be nice if someone could tell me what. Would actually be compatible. Without having to search around for this unavailable part number. The cable connections to direct air are different. and I do not really want to modify them. Unless its the only option.
As far as i know F667 part was showing as compatible so i picked that one. There is also a variation with 01 on the end could possibly be another compatible unit. Both would require cable replacement or modifications.
Currently. I'm waiting on a refund as the part does not show sign of working.
Can't find one? Lots on eBay, THIS ONE at £12 inc p&p looks to be a bargain... Don't think the electronic system retrofit would be a viable job.......Have been looking at the valeo heater controls and yea this is getting annoying repeated questions.
Since I cannot find one would it not be a good idea for me to replace the whole thing. With an electronic system.
As far as I can see would need the panel and controller..
How that would work or what parts would be out of my knowledge so far.
I'm not bothered for it being electronically controlled but could be a future upgrade option.
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Sadly a stumpy aerial is fashion over form, suppose it all comes down to looks or decent radio reception...............Just added a stumpy aerial seems to work alright but might want a rubber seal adding as the ones provided seem a little oversized.
Have started practice of wrapping and am not that great so far have done the door handle trim and they don't really wrap very easy plus one of the clips broke while removing.
The wrap is so close to the trim colour. Thought it would be much darker grey.
Very hard to even notice a difference apart from the scuffs and scratches are gone.
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Sounds eminently possible.....by the way mask off the face on the hub/drums that the wheel mates with you really need metal to metal contact with the wheels.....Does anyone know if we paint the drums and front calipers with high temp paint. Then add normal top coat of colour paint onto the high temp will this cause the top coat to flake.
Why add 'normal' paint? High temp paints are available in many colors now days!Does anyone know if we paint the drums and front calipers with high temp paint. Then add normal top coat of colour paint onto the high temp will this cause the top coat to flake.
The trouble with high temp paints is that you really have to 'cure' them prior to in intial use or they don't stay looking good. Not a problem with an exhaust manifold, you just start the engine then leave it on tick over for a while, but on brake parts this is not quite so simple. When I painted the rear drums on my MG Midget with red VHT paint, I cured them in our kitchen oven! (no bearing attached to the drums), I cannot describe the amount of strong smelling smoke that appeared when I opened the oven door, after an hour, to remove them, my wife was NOT amused! In hindsight I should have left them in there to cool down, but was in a hurry to remove the incriminating evidence, before she found out what I was doing, but it had just the opposite effect...Have seen lots painting the whole drum face. Something I will definitely avoid doing.
I'm just going to go with the high temp silver. That I have left over hopefully this will go far enough to cover both. Then later I may add a high temp colour such as black.
Only reason for normal paint.
Would be custom colours that may not be available in high temp tins.
But I should be pleased enough. With a standard colour to protect the drum from rusting quickly again.
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From your pictures you will see that there are two different fitment types to the middle exhaust section, a two bolt clamped flange joint and a slide over, 'U' bolt clamped joint, get the right one to suit your car. AFAIK the flange joint was fitted to cars between 2003 and 2005, then late in 2005 the U bolt clamped joint was fitted, as on my Sport+. On my original OEM box I just cut off the curved section of the outlet pipe, leaving a short straight stub, which I clamped a short straight pipe to , to exit the bumper.So my exhaust muffler has started to pap its self again. On inspection its seems to be rusted at the backbox exit point. Mostly at the back I am trying to find some point of drain as I think might have water standing inside.
Any how if I am to replace this part. Wondering if it will be possible to fit one that does not have the ridiculously curved pipe that is totally hidden from view unless you are under the vehicle. (Possible curve cut into the rear bumper if this helps with clearance.)
The muffler at present seems to be a nissan original. (Seems to still be working for now..)
Please excuse the bad photo as this was really awkward to do after all the rain we been having recently.
The second image shown is what I would like to be fitted.
Though I'm sure this will not exactly have the same curves to make fitment without modification.
Have seen others doing straight pipes and removing this from the system (not really my cup of tea)