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Micra Urban Van.

So after the mechanism has been replaced or somewhat as doing so I noticed the mid section of the exhaust drips water I could not locate the hole but it must be really small or its not at the bottom rear end where I was looking this however is where the droplet was forming.
maybe I can get away with filling it with a cement type material for the time being then replace if it gets worse.
its interesting to find because the exhaust does get a strange note after the car begins to idle so that could be the problem.
I also noticed after reinstalling the pipe the flow at rear seemed to be more free flowing that before it was removed.
 
Just gave her a good wash and cleaned the interior up as it was starting to look dusty over the dash and door trims.
That and it was dust covered again.
The outside gets a lot of dust and tree pollen within a matter of a day.
Looks much better to say its my version of a quick wash..

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I'm wanting to order the hub centric spacers.
Have asked questions already to see what they say about the following.
The bolt length these are longer than the original.
The ones I have are a lot shorter.
Would be nice to know if they will just screw all the way in without bottoming out and not having to buy a different set.
Other than this I would have to take measurements of the bolts threads through the wheels.

The only answer I have so far gotten

Bolt Pattern: 4 x 100
Thread Pitch: M12 x 1.5
Thickness: 20mm
Centre Bore (mm): 60.1
Please check your car's PCD and wheel specs BEFORE purchasing

This does not give me the answer to do these bolts fit with my alloy wheel and will they tighten down properly.
Safety first over rushing into installing a aftermarket item that may or may not fit properly..


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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I'm wanting to order the hub centric spacers.
Have asked questions already to see what they say about the following.
The bolt length these are longer than the original.
The ones I have are a lot shorter.
Would be nice to know if they will just screw all the way in without bottoming out and not having to buy a different set.
Other than this I would have to take measurements of the bolts threads through the wheels.

The only answer I have so far gotten

Bolt Pattern: 4 x 100
Thread Pitch: M12 x 1.5
Thickness: 20mm
Centre Bore (mm): 60.1
Please check your car's PCD and wheel specs BEFORE purchasing

This does not give me the answer to do these bolts fit with my alloy wheel and will they tighten down properly.
Safety first over rushing into installing a aftermarket item that may or may not fit properly..


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I have the identical ones on the rear of my K12 and the longer bolts that they supply do the job perfectly:cool:. AFAIK the bolts that they supply are just 20mm longer than the original ones that held my 16" alloys on....
 
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My only gripe now is they are 17mm socket size so I would have to carry an extra socket or get a full set of bolts.
they would be worth while being replaced anyway.
Will get the black ones as this way they will match the drums and also the combination of paint that is plan for the wheels:)

These are from same place 20mm

From what I have seen so far it is good measure to install them and run a few decent miles then re-check the bolts are to spec torque.(not listed in the description)
Also to apply some copper grease to the faces to prevent them binding. And lastly possibly lock-tight to the threads although i think this is more suited to the multi bolt spacers that fit other vehicles.
Edit :- With 15in alloys we have around 30mm from the outside of wheel to the arch in the rear and looked like hardly any in the front.
Not sure how proud that will make the rear should be much closer to the limits though.
spacers .jpg
 
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Have given the interior a wash this seemed to be over due so I had to finish the plastics after the carpets got done a few days ago.
I'm still left with the seats on my to do list they are really dusty.
The mats seem to still be also even after hoovering them down.
Probably my hand hoover isn't picking up properly.

Also hit the headlights to get rid of any remaining hazyness.
They came up alright for the time being.



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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
My Sport + with 16" x 6J wheels and 20mm spacers.
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The small plastic spats are not necessary, but do look nice......
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Without the 'spats'....
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Just topped the tank up this micra is getting star treatment that I didn't think it would ever get.
Spacers are coming soon probably Thursday or friday.
Can't wait to get them fitted.

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Just topped the tank up this micra is getting star treatment that I didn't think it would ever get.
Spacers are coming soon probably Thursday or friday.
Can't wait to get them fitted.

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My daughter is currently out in my Saab Turbo, topping it up with fuel, as I'm being 'good' (for my own benefit) and staying self isolating...... 🤭
 
We all have to isolate here for the sake of my dad.
Hopefully it will clear up shortly and things will get back to normal.

The gear shifter performed brilliant on the first trial. Almost has the feel of a new one.
And the exhaust held up well with the mid pipe join. I had to use a liquid gasket seal. as the over sized gasket was useless and the seller is ignoring my messages.
I do have a ring gasket. unsure if this just fits over one of the flanges then crush fits snug in middle or if its supposed to fit inside of the pipe.
Since they are one time use I still have this part handy,
So that is a good thing.

Going to try and get a few drives out. To see if I can to catch back up on the lessons that I was about to book before the lock down started.
Was planning to do the intensive course to hopefully pass in a few weeks.
For the time being its key workers only and we the public get little information on when we can resume.


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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
We all have to isolate here for the sake of my dad.
Hopefully it will clear up shortly and things will get back to normal.

The gear shifter performed brilliant on the first trial. Almost has the feel of a new one.
And the exhaust held up well with the mid pipe join. I had to use a liquid gasket seal. as the over sized gasket was useless and the seller is ignoring my messages.
I do have a ring gasket. unsure if this just fits over one of the flanges then crush fits snug in middle or if its supposed to fit inside of the pipe.
Since they are one time use I still have this part handy,
So that is a good thing.

Going to try and get a few drives out. To see if I can to catch back up on the lessons that I was about to book before the lock down started.
Was planning to do the intensive course to hopefully pass in a few weeks.
For the time being its key workers only and we the public get little information on when we can resume.


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Good luck with the driving test, I passed my car test in 1967 :eek: (and run foul of one of the countries very first radar speed traps within a week ☹) and have driven well in excess of 3/4 million miles since then, in quite a range of vehicles, a very sobering thought as especially as I've personally paid most of the fuel cost! (mind you, it was possible to buy four gallons of 5* 101 octane leaded petrol in 1967 and get change out of £1, but when you are an engineering apprentice on about £6 for a 42 hour week that doesn't mean a lot!)
 
Before and after hub centric spacers.
Will look nicer when the suspension settles.
They are easy to set up and install would definitely recommend them to other micra drivers.


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Working on the alloy wheels today. Giving them a sand down. At the areas that have paint bubbling/paint flakes.
After inspection closely. The two wheels at the rear have a lot of bumpy areas. Where someone has previously. Made a half hearted attempt at refurbishing alloy wheels.
I have so far removed as much of this as possible. In the pots and edges of spokes.
The fronts also have a bit of paint flake on them around the bolts areas etc.
Will be doing this in steps. Taking time and trying to make them much better, Longer lasting paint job. Than the previous touch up that had been done by last owner.

Will take photos of them before painting. Not bore everyone with the details of sanding. However I will definitely not be cutting corners. On preparations. As this is definitely the key to a great Finish.

Photos will be added here later.

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Working on the alloy wheels today. Giving them a sand down. At the areas that have paint bubbling/paint flakes.
After inspection closely. The two wheels at the rear have a lot of bumpy areas. Where someone has previously. Made a half hearted attempt at refurbishing alloy wheels.
I have so far removed as much of this as possible. In the pots and edges of spokes.
The fronts also have a bit of paint flake on them around the bolts areas etc.
Will be doing this in steps. Taking time and trying to make them much better, Longer lasting paint job. Than the previous touch up that had been done by last owner.

Will take photos of them before painting. Not bore everyone with the details of sanding. However I will definitely not be cutting corners. On preparations. As this is definitely the key to a great Finish.

Photos will be added here later.

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Make sure you use etch primer on the wheels for good adhesion to the aluminium.....
 
This is the second pass of sanding in using 120 160 and 400.
To reveal the filler that was not sanded back correctly.
Remove curb rashes that are plentiful on at least 2 of the wheels.
And lastly the corrosion that you can see the worst of on the rear drivers side.
They are all scuffed up atm to give me a better key.
A few high spots still need hitting with the palm sander as lightly as possible to avoid over sanding.
This is a long process and is rewarding at the end.
It must look worse before it can look better.
The wheels will be taken off one at a time so I can give each one more detailed sanding later.
Mainly the areas I need to get at are the bolt holes because paint flake etc.
I will be painting them later with the tyres in place off the vehicle they will also be taped up properly as my tyres are still new.
 
All 4 wheels have so far had at least an hour each of prep and will most likley have at least another 30 mins to an hour to bring them to a flat sprayable surface.
The plan is to clear off all the flaked paint remove the flaking from inside the bolt hole areas that look really bad on at least 2 or 3 wheels
going to try with a silver paint from Upol along with Upol etch primer so they match properly and do not splutter paint at the end of the tin like in my first attempt.
Also I'm going to test out adding some filler to the huge scab in the lower portion of this wheel then prime and paint that area to see what kind of a finish I can expect.
The rest is mainly curb rash that I'm not too concerned about although it will still need to be made as flat as possible to make things look neat again when the job is done.

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Test coat on the worst wheel I know this isn't flat and there are a lot of problem with this wheel.
I decided to spray down a few coats to see what happens definitely needs a bit of flattening down and filler in certain areas.
however I now know that the paint is going to make a big difference.
P_20200504_161911_1.jpg
 
Front driver side has just had its basic sand and rinse down it looks almost like I'm wasting my time painting this one.
Shows that the sand paper could bring them back if they are lightly pitted?
Edit:- today have sanded back as flat as I could get the filler (some high spots remained). Then I added some filler to the worst looking sections of the wheel. Re sanded till I was happy with the flat surface to prepare primer.
This time I will put 3 coats of etch then see if I can sand back more later.
The wheel has bumps still.
I hope that I can flatten them out to a degree that is acceptable from a few feet away..
My idea is to sand it back more. After the primer coats have been layed. That way I can concentrate more on the high spots. Gives more viewable pointers to what I need to remove.

(Need some Sunshine)
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Have so far manage to paint two wheels they are not that great to look at close up.
However I seem to be getting the hang of it now and am gaining some experience in the process.
I could say the wheels were really in bad shape. Though now I have one side on the car and they do look a lot more tidy than they did.
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Wheel number tree,Got sunshine this time and am just adding filler.
Messy job and this one was badly curbed.
Although in good condition overall for passenger side front.
Note to self take more time masking and don't make it look like its a ussd eBay item
Will post side shot of what they look like on car. However the car probably needs a good rinse down yet again.
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Here we are at half time I'm pleased with the drivers side looks much better than it was.
I am now looking at the last wheel than may try the 5th I have stored away so they all match.All done now just waiting for the dust caps to dry as one messed up towards the end. Only left to put last wheel on and think I will leave the 5th wheel for another time.
(Probems encountered)
Nozzle blocked on one tin of the etch so annoying.
Couple of runs here and there.
Lessons learned
Sand carefully and don't over do it.
Use cling film and tape to wrap the tyre..
This worked out so much quicker than the paper I was using from Amazon packaging.
Yes I collected lots.
And did not have any problem using first time around.
The cling film sticks to the tyre really handy in you want instantly wrapped tyres in a matter of a few mins..(forgot to take a picture of the wrapping when it looked good)
Lastly don't touch the wheel cause you think the paint has dried..

Edit:- My shots are all blurry I have just noticed I was taking lower res images because they won't upload from phone the next time I will use higher and upload manually from the web page....
P_20200506_151736.jpg


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Now that the wheels are done and all back on the micra.
I have to wait for the paint to cure nice only thing is the seagulls (or inland seagulls) seem to use my windscreen for target practice ..

Planning on washing after the paint hardens and binds as best it can to the wheels best not to fire the power washer at it yet I think.

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Going to replace the rest of the wheel bolts that are oxidized and look really nasty..
plus this will be a good idea as I want all the bolts to match instead of having to swap tools each time for a different wheel I guess I just want to keep things simple in that respect.
Will also be adding a Steering wheel cover as I have been wanting one for such a long time and I do think this will look and feel nicer and will help protect the wheel from wearing out in the near future.
Just a few little details makes all the difference.

Something I noticed while I was changing the wheels over.
I was using my 15 inch steel wheel and it looked really good at the rear with the spacers as well as at the front. (The arch gap did not look that bad)
if i had a set of 4 of these i would totally be running them cause and the higher side wall profile did also look cool.
My only dislike for them would be how the wheel bolts curve and only make contact with partial amount of the bolt holes this just did not look very good. (Don't think I took a snap of the steel wheel on the micra) maybe next time..
 
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So I have heard that changing the spark plugs can give better fuel consumption,mileage..
Am considering looking to see if they should be replaced soon.
And also having a look at the throttle body to check condition possibly clean or replace in future.
Today I gave the panels a buff with colour enhancer.
This has been done only once before with a machine this time I had chosen to try it out manually.
It has brought back some shine and makes the panels look smoother.
Happy with the result so far I'm just left with the roof to do another time when I get chance.
Will Post a shot tomorrow..

:- Something I forget to add I have checked my oil to see if it still looks okay and its pretty clean still.
While I get spark plugs im going to also grab oil and air filter as a kit not sure what exactly to get yet or where I might pick up the best deal on this.
it would be nice if I could get one that also includes the cabin filter that way I can check if it needs renewing.

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Picked out some bosch sparkplugs for the change over I think they will be okay and if anything this way I will have matching parts oil filter and air filter
 
The long awaited interior upgrade has arrived.
Steering wheel cover.
This are pretty good quality and it feels nice.
Very tight fit.
Definitely isn't going to move and should
last awhile.
The brand is Heyner German brand. Quality product..
P_20200514_125149.jpg


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And next up is the wheel bolts that really let the team down.
I'm sticking with one locking, Each side even though this won't match and they still don't look to bad. Ideally one on each of the rear would be a good idea but I doubt I will find long ones that will match the original so would make a mismatch.
Plus they are essential.
So now the all match apart from those and that the front ones are slightly shorter matching the original bolts.
And I know the paint isn't flat on this wheel also noticed I had missed a couple areas in other side the finish on that one is much better however.
I got 10 got 4 spares that may be handy.
Along with the set I removed.
This worked out at 12.99 same as buying 6 so I got 4 for free.
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Following my service last year I decided to match and use Bosch plugs since the oil filter is good quality.
Can't wait to see the condition of the plugs that will soon be removed.
These should be more than okay for my needs.
P_20200515_125836.jpg


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So I have finally received the obd 2 Wi-Fi adapter plugged it in and it connected right away..
I have decided since the car is running okay. I'm going to leave the plugs for a later date.
They may improve things a little but I'm not really experiencing any excessive stalls or juddering so I think it would be best to keep them stored for when needed.
When testing I scanned for error codes since this is what I originally wanted the scan tool for.
It returned zero codes..
The product is a street wise obd2 WiFi you can get them in euro car parts and car parts 4 less.
And its safe to know the product is not a fake from EBay....

Edit :-
Now I know I have a sparkplug socket. I will eventually swap them out.
The first tool I found was a lot bigger and would not fit on the plugs


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Today I am taking a look at an idea for a permanent repair for the air intake breather.
My first thought was to buy all the parts and copy the improved air-intake.
That is shown here and others have already followed and gotten great results.
For me though I can see this as being costly for what it is.
However I do not doubt that it is improved.
And have even started listing all the parts I should require if my idea does not workout.


Anyhow this is what my idea is so far and its really simple.
Also it may be possible that it can be done for free if you have the parts laying around.
Now I have not tested it out or fitted it up to the air intake filter housing or pipe.
But this is the basic idea.
I'm going to try adding a rubber sleeve or hollowed out bung.
Fitting this over the intake and then hopefully as I usually say...
Mounting it to the filter box with clamps.
For me the clamps being the only item I would have to buy along with maybe some Adhesive glue to make the sleeve fit.

So here is an image of what I plan to test out. The sleeve measures 55mm inner diameter. Also quite Flexible and can easily be cut making it possible to fit onto the intake. Far enough to have good contact and not fall away with the engine movements. whilst in use.
So here is what I'm looking at for the time being. Should you have the same problem this may also work for you.

On the left is the one I'm working with. At the right is a flexible plastic that could prove useful. For air box spigot. Giving a little spring action to the intake although I doubt this will be needed.
The second image is something I plan to buy if the inner side of my item shown left doesn't seal or fit nicely.

In case you are wondering the first item in showing is from a stepper machine that was disassembled for parts. I have 4 of these rubber feet so can try again if it goes wrong.
And the other is from a computer swivel chair.

The other item I do not have yet. Will work better as there is no thread on the inside.
The threaded inner, Might not be ideal for this purpose.
My other solution is to buy a coolant hose and cut it to a desired size making a similar fit to what I'm trying to achieve here.
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When I started out on this thread. I was going to add a heatshield that is still sitting around.
I seem to jump to different tasks and this has gotten left behind as it did not go to plan.
now that I have some decent knowledge and have viewed the exhaust from front to rear I know that there is an issue with the (Bolt connection) to the catalytic converter.
After finding that the scan tool will connect I have more confidence to remove the items I want to work on.
While im in the process of picking the right items I have to remember that the car is a 2005 and the engine is the 2008 model
 
So sometimes I get gifted a parcel from car parts 4 less they are really kind to give out free items.
This time I will receive...Armor all wipes multi pack I think it will contain dash screen and another.
Its very handy because at this time of year I got a lot of dust and tree sap landing on my windscreen.(a set of axle stands would have been nicer as I can't find hawks ones any more and those are pretty decent)
Any how postage is slow at present so I'm gonna wait it out for the springs.
I don't really know if I should have gotten manifold bolts but I guess they should be reusable as only the nuts one of them looked to be rounded slightly and these I have got copper flashed ones because they seem to be a good choice. The bolts do need some cleaning up if I do decide to reuse and I intend to so long as they are still strong.
 
Just noticed this is now available looks as though it may fit part number is slightly different however.
its newish and these are not available any place in this type of condition
is clean with a few light scratches after closer inspection of the two images they do not look like a match 🙁 the search continues.



 

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Today I can hear a small puping or popping sound from the front of the exhaust.
This is as its stood idle just running the engine.
Anyhow it was really hot today and seemed to get up to temps really quickly.
I'm guessing it might be that the seal I made at the middle isn't good enough as I thought I was going to be using a gasket but then had to resort to a liquid gasket that I was not to pleased to have to use.
Its been okay up till today apart from the light popping ones the engine has reached normal operating temps.
This I can understand is a small pin hole in and around the same part middle section.
Was getting ready to do my heatshield.
So now I need to get a gasket for the middle section as I do not want to use a liquid gasket as this was only purchased for sealing the gear shifter bottom plate.
Will probably be starting tomorrow..


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Today I received these they are handy to have.
Probably going to use them after the road has been re-surfaced..
My exhaust is okay the sound was chirping from the belt and it sometimes happens when I start up.
Not that concerned about this as its probably just the tensioner pulley.

Still got the gaskets anyway that way I got the two.
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I'm busy removing the manifold today and have got every thing bar one nut loose.
The bolt at driver side is under the top engine mount and the alternator seems to be in the way for a ratchet and even a spanner is hard to place from any direction.
I do not recall in Haynes manual it saying anything about having to remove this mount or the alternator.
But I'm sure its not that hard to take off the top mount.
If you know what to do to make this quick and easy please let me know.

So here in the manual it says you must disconnect battery take off the wheel, belts and the alternator.
That can't really be the simple way of removing a manifold.
The wheel and the belts are not even that close to the manifold.
I can try to tap it loose and then just use a ring spanner to remove its very awkward and the nut is slightly rounded already most likely from the same process as I'm facing.
I will blast it with heat tomorrow don't think it moved at all yet..
Oh yea and a ratcheting ring spanner would be useful here.
Also I noticed the mid three are able to remove with the bolt still in place. The (passenger side) one the bolt is removing with the nut.
So that should mean other side most likely will do the same as the right side one.
Is a good chance it will move once heated up I should have done this before trying but since all the others loosen off easy I decided to just proceed the same way.

Tomorrow it will be removed and the heatshield will be back where it should be.
 
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I could not get the nut to come loose so now I'm trying to replace the gasket on the catalytic converter to the down pipe.
The problem I'm having is getting it to slide onto the flange of the down pipe where the old one has been remove and I have wire brushed the area.
It will go on but only just.
I also have a metal gasket that I'm going to see if will fit along side this.
Thinking I should tap it on this was not working and I have tried to place it into the down pipe where it should seat when tighten but there seems to be a big gap that isn't how it should be.
The size looks identical to the left over part that has now been removed or at least what was left of it.

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Finally got the fickers on after a lot of rain dripping onto me from the bumper

It still wouldn't go on to where I wanted but I think this time its straight and should have made contact and a decent seal.
Only one way to find out now is to start it up again.

I'm glad that I've got the proper fixing in place as the others did not look as though they were ment for the car.
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Started okay seems to sound okay ish will let her warm up tho to be extra sure its fine.
Edit:-Was quiet at idle and did not make unwanted sounds.
Was expecting it to be blowing at the area I have be working on.
At this point I've had about enough of throwing my money away for no real diffrence.
Time to just enjoy the car I guess..

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Thinking about trying again with wobble socket adapter. Isn't a whole lotta room though so also considering giving the belts a renew with the intention of getting in at that last bolt and breaking it free..
If anyone has a wobble socket and could try it on the manifold bolt where I got stumped please let me know as this would help a lot.
okay so I should just replace both belts if im going to have to remove the alternater they would probably benefit from being replaced anyways as I have no record of the last time they have been or at what mileage.
Part numbers as follows (Please note Air Conditioning Version)
11720N11720-BX015BELT-FAN & ALTERNATOR
11920N11920-BX005 BELT-COMPRESSOR

Dayco Drive Belt Product Code: 202771035 CarParts4less (Part Number)
Dayco Drive BeltProduct Code: 202778345
 

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Got the new belts yesterday and two gaskets including the doughnut gasket for the cat to down pipe.
Just waiting on a new ratchet as I had a lot of trouble the other day with it slipping when tightening.
Could just use the torque wrench but prefer to keep that for its purpose.

Have tried to match all part numbers this time so the should fit.
My only concern is the tensioner I will test those and make visual inspection before deciding if the shall be replaced yet.

All this just to enable me better access to manifold. At least I will now have some dates for the parts that I have serviced myself when its done.
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So this bracket was really rusted and I have removed it when trying to get manifold off.
Wire brushed it till I can see the metal again then have pained it up with some high temp paint in Matt black.
Should prevent the rust returning quickly and look better when its put back on.
Not sure what its ment to hold but is near where the heatshield would be normally.

Ordered some extra tools to help me along the way and to speed up the process for the belt change/manifold heatshield and spark plug change over.
For a long while been looking at impact tools and had a go with the manual one. That was okay but does not quite help any after that.
And while I'm able to get along okay with the ratchet. Also with help of the drill and socket adapters.
So now waiting on a cordless Impact wrench mainly to be used for quick removal and stubborn bolts etc.

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Today have just received my impact wrench.
First impressions are it feels pretty powerful..
Not sure if anyone else has this model but will let you know here how it performs.
The cost of the battery and charger was more than the impact its self.
Was reluctant to try one of these because its unbranded but as you can see its LXT DTW285Z clone.
So far I am impressed with it and think it would be useful to let others know if it in fact is good enough for small jobs a car such as the micra.
This is my first impact wrench and I'm not sure how well it will perform to be honest.
Oh yeah and I have matched this item with a genuine 3.0AH battery.
The sockets in using are a draper set that I got early this year they are proper quality impact sockets.

The impact is rather small in compare to the drill I have and a lot smaller than full size or higher model impacts.
However its weighty and when I spin it up it feels to have a decent amount of torque.
I have just tried it on some 14mm nuts and they removed very easy although the torque of those may not have been very high since they are tightened up to a worktop and a small square of chipboard that I have in place to clamp down my vice.
The last thing I'm going to try is converting it with attachment so that I have a removable chuck for drilling and screwing.
This should make for a multi purpose tool as the trusty drill that still works has batteries that no longer hold charge this has recently been slowing progress down a lot on my diy project's.
So even if it fails as a impact wrench I will still have the other options.

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Today I got the 1/2 to drill chuck adapter.
And coupled it with a Bergen drill chuck.
It is great to finally have a multi tool that can do a lot more than just one or two things.
Will upload some pictures here to show later.
If you want one of the drill chucks visit eBay seller at agr-enterprises
Product name.
BERGEN Professional 13MM Keyless Impact hammer Drill Chuck/Lock SDS Adaptor 2753.

Condition is New. Dispatched with Royal Mail 2nd Class.



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The impact wrench was a star today.Shame it could not fit in every spot it was needed.
Really please it even managed to remove the bolt that got completely rounded.

I have to adjust the handbrake because it keeps rolling a bit after I engage it.
Hopefully I will adjust to work again without having to renew the cables.


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It's funny how its not showing up on the camera but annoying at same time ahah
Time for power wash when all is done.

Gave both motors a warm contactless wash removed most of this cement type material that will embed into the paint work if not remove quickly.
Not all has lifted but they look a lot cleaner after 2 or three passes with the shampoo to dissolve most of the mess.
I'm not so bothered since i planned on power washing after the road works finished.
So left it for longer because any mess i make myself while working on the car. Will just waste the effort i will put in later to make things nice again.
These are the before photos of the Road-Dust-Storm that is passing through :eek:
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So we took the car for its first run after the exhaust was fitted and there is a huge difference in the way vehicle drives and sounds.
Its a lot nicer and much quieter than it was previously.
I'm still uncomfortable though as a passenger if feels really strange and the seat offers little comfort in the way the car rolls around a lot.
Maybe I'm comparing it too much with the corsa and what I'm used to.
But for me it shows that its not a nice experience for the passenger as it stands.
Maybe I should try adjusting the passenger seat more for comfort.
But other than that I'm not happy with how the car bounces around.

This is making me want to take out the suspension and replace it but passenger comfort will be priority when this happens.
Not sure what way to go because lowering might make more uncomfortable for my passengers.

If I replace them with standard ones it might not improve much over what its like now.
The seat is not very good at holding you in the seat I think the seats could do with side lumber supports that are none exsistant in the seats that are original.
It might be just the seats more than suspension but they also are one of the next items to be done.
Will have to try to save up and change them soon.
I apologise for down time. Will still try to get some time with the car and blog in the near future.


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