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Micra Urban Van.

Today working on back 2 black plastics. The indicator clusters. Also tested on spoiler and all other exterior plastic items.
Going to wait a day and see how this sets in before taking more photos..Waiting for grilles. These will be hand made and are to be installed later. Plan is make front end happy again and face lift a little later.
 
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Backbox of the exhaust seems to be making a ticking sound.The ground next to it has been water covered.
My guess is its humidity but its dripping water at the back of the box not really that concerned as yet as the car has been stood for a while over most of the winter.
Probably needs a run to blow out the humidity..
 
Added some covers to the top mounts on front suspension struts. They come from Nissan versa and are not very tight fit. Also my breather hose mod that I managed to get to fit after a lot of trial and error I used a vax part a radiator hose and a red top from a gas tin for the top it fits it does the job enough said..
 
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Want some of these fog lamps.They seem over priced for what they are imo. Also currently looking for rear gas struts for back door.
Am wondering if I should just go for led fogs and bull bar combo.
 
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Today added some new talegate gas struts as the old ones were on their way out. Also added some trim mouldings to the bonnet around the lights, rear door and both doors.
Was going to use the trim as part of the grille for the front bumper. Only this did not seem to work so instead used for its original purpose.
Will take some photo soon.
Up next touching up stone chips and scratches.
Lastly remove the old rivets from number plates .Replace with screws as they seem to be a rusty patch around them on the plate :cautious:(Good ole Rivets)
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Today the bumper clips arrived have put some on for the indicator grilles. Chewed on for ages trying to get the ones under headlights to pop in.Would not go in without poping backout. I also noticed some others were missing on the scuttle panel. Below windscreen those have tie clips and won't take these clips for some reason. Any who the grilles for indicators are nice and tight now and the clips are correct.
 
Next project to clean up the rear drum brakes and paint yellow not sure yet to spray or hand paint them and or to have copper slip incase they require this.
so far I have gathered most of the items needed including a pair axle stands. So will be able to lift one end at a time.
Breaker bar and a Torque wrench to make sure that they are replaced according to the manual specifications.

Another thing I am considering is to remove the rear parking sensor that is not to my taste when reversing would imagine it to be a simple fuse removal to achieve this please let me know if this is incorrect as this would be most helpful to me.
 
I painted my brake drums black with brush. From my blog

"Fashionable & easy mod, painting of brake drums. This makes rear of vehicle looking nice, I didn't realized, before seeing with my own eyes, how big difference this makes to appearance of Micra :cool:
Like John_D says: small details ;)

Before removal of surface rust.

After surface rust removed.

Tools used.



Really easy to lift rear of vehicle from hitch.

Done, brown ugly round thing is camouflaged. I added blue 'NISSAN' decals at same time.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
And front calibers:
"Front calibers done, ducking cool! :cool:
Changed new discs and brake pads at same time, disches were worn under tolerance thickness. Discs were ordered with black paint from Germany.

Helpful videos for brakes:
How to replace front brake discs and brake pads NISSAN MICRA 3 TUTORIAL | AUTODOC 06:25

Nissan Note fitting front brake pads 10:18

How to replace rear brake pads NISSAN MICRA 3 TUTORIAL | AUTODOC 07:27

Nissan versa note rear brakes 16:40













And front calibers:
"Front calibers done, ducking cool! :cool:
Changed new discs and brake pads at same time, disches were worn under tolerance thickness. Discs were ordered with black paint from Germany.

Helpful videos for brakes:
How to replace front brake discs and brake pads NISSAN MICRA 3 TUTORIAL | AUTODOC 06:25

Nissan Note fitting front brake pads 10:18

How to replace rear brake pads NISSAN MICRA 3 TUTORIAL | AUTODOC 07:27

Nissan versa note rear brakes 16:40













"
Strange, I can't see any of your pictures in the last two posts Mika, BUT when I go to reply to one of them, as now, they appear?? Thought it might be a browser thing, but same happens both in Firefox and Chrome........
edit: pictures now visible to me in my replied post but still not visible in the earlier posts???:unsure:
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I now no longer can see the pictures in my reply Mika, how odd. Can anybody else see the pictures or is it just me?
This is what I can see.........
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Thanks mika for your detailed reply. I did try a search the other day. About this and was unable to find any information on here.
Have seen the auto doc disc brake. Tutorial a while back now and thought that it was a great guide. Compared with most of the other guides out there in video format.
Btw I am able to see the uploads you made. Including your amazing vintage style drill that reminds me of the black and decker one. That I rarely use these days.
This reminded me that I should also grab a wire brush attachment to speed up the process.
Its good also to use only brass wire. brushes and avoid the steel brush. Since they leave fragments that can cause the rust to return.






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Okey another question im looking in my engine bay (its untidy and looks poo to me)
I want to find out the sizes for most of the bolts/clips that seem to look crappy rusted ect
I could try removing one or two just aint sure if they may snap not a problem I already am equipped to remove and have plenty of skills in the removal of any bolts and similar..
My goal is to tidy up the engine bay as a whole not going for a pristine finish just want it to look tidy enough that it does not cause me alarm.

here it is i'm going to add some pointers to the ones I want to hopfully change out and see if I can find them if you guys don't know the sizes for any that i'm pointing towards I will try to do them myself.

edit :- useful link http://alvadi.ee/en/carparts/nissan/micra-k12-2003/fixing-screw/
 

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Here is the image for the air duct. The diagram shows their is not a bolt in the. (no11) Area it is a clip I have added a clip to the other side. When I last bought clips. Then left the bolt in place since I was replacing clips. For the idicators that had not been a correct size.

The guide here attached says. Replace all these other parts if this item is removed.
I do not want to mess with the part if it causes other issues or part needs since all works great as it stands.
Would say the gasket no 8 could be affected if I take those top one's out so may instead. Try to manually remove the rust from the bolts and then try to. Replace the coolant ones or take same action to those first and see.

Another idea I could just dip the bolt from the intake. Overnight and replace with a clip as show in the diagram. Then see what effect it has on that single bolt that way nothing else would be effected.
My rust removal dip was about 80% good result.
When I dip some old spanners that I wanted to bring back into use.
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
The original plastic air intake duct on my K12, on the slam panel, was held by two plastic clips. (more correctly described as 8mm plastic push to lock rivets)

When I redesigned the inlet feed and replaced the original duct on the slam panel, with a modified larger one from a 2 litre Renault Laguna, I initially fitted it with the two original clips


but then added a third, to the right of the first two, to make it more secure.....
The bolts that you have circled are all M6 though you would have to remove one to check the length (probably not all the same)....
Personally, I was going to replace them I would probably do it with M6 stainless steel socket head cap screws,

with a stainless washer under the head of each.......
I notice that you have the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter heat shield missing, though to refit one will probably necessitate drilling the broken securing bolts out of the support bosses on the exhaust manifold and re-tapping the holes........
 
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Okay so I gave them a little dip. Sanded the others they don't all look better. At least now I know. They are not so badly corroded to snapping or sticking point.
Have added the correct clips that were bought on eBay and I was so surprised that they came from a part shop very close to home..
I also removed the lower headlamp bolts and dipped those.
I'm happy to say none of them were snapping in the removal.
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Also I Will look up heat shield and add one to my endless(Need) wish list. That way when if I do get round to replacing the exhaust. Maybe I can replace the missing part of the puzzle?
I don't think I can call it an engine since there have been a couple things missing so far.

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Two were longer. I think the Radiator res ones a bit longer and the Headlight ones slightly shorter.
Didn't measure them yet but I'm definitely going to renew them. Since only one looks how it should. Might as well be stainless or what ever they have that won't rust again while I own the vehicle..
Threads all look same apart from that strange one that was in the intake entrance.. Oh well I guess I got a free bolt and wing nut out of doing the job today


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I think I'm going to try. These ones should they be long enough for what I need. They look good and don't cost a bomb.
In fact they are only 3 pound for 20 That's outstanding value if they arrive..
And I will have enough to replace them twice. I think...
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The original plastic air intake duct on my K12, on the slam panel, was held by two plastic clips. (more correctly described as 8mm plastic push to lock rivets)

When I redesigned the inlet feed and replaced the original duct on the slam panel, with a modified larger one from a 2 litre Renault Laguna, I initially fitted it with the two original clips


but then added a third, to the right of the first two, to make it more secure.....
The bolts that you have circled are all M6 though you would have to remove one to check the length (probably not all the same)....
Personally, I was going to replace them I would probably do it with M6 stainless steel socket head cap screws,

with a stainless washer under the head of each.......
I notice that you have the exhaust manifold/catalytic converter heat shield missing, though to refit one will probably necessitate drilling the broken securing bolts out of the support bosses on the exhaust manifold and re-tapping the holes........
Think I have a tap and die set that's not been used much here. They are really handy to have.
So I guess its possible to do for me at a later date(I'm unlikely to do anything with the exhaust any time soon)
Can see now how much different it looks in your photo with the shield in place I don't know how I missed that before But was aware that there was more heat than normal in the engine bay. Than on other vehicles that I have seen before..
I'm pretty sure that means the heat shield is more important than it seems I have read up on here so far.
The words were something like. (Some run without the heatshield and its okay to do so or something like that) The reason being they are missing is because they become loose due to corrosion and then start to rattle or whatever so get removed.
seems inexpensive to replace in my opinion.

Also can see that there is another empty spot in the center just beside the intake entrance. And another thing I can see whats not around is a heatshield on the underside of the bonnet this might make the engine sound less audible from inside as well I just thought I would say this since that part is not visible in the photos I have shown so far.
 
Have been looking at Renault Laguna wheels they kinda okay but then I see these...
The laguna ones need cap over the bolts and to me that means having to display a Renault logo on the wheel that doesn't really do anything for me.
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15" RH CUPS alloys 4x100 and they look much nicer cant afford to get them but would be nice to see them on the micra at some point in future.
Would guess at that they definitely would need spigot rings but unsure of the offset ect they do look good quality german wheels
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Does anyone know if a Clio heatshield would fit for the exhaust manifold.
Have searched around and don't seem to see any for k12's.


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I doubt it very much as the Clio uses a completely different engine.
The Note one probably doesn't fit as the Note uses the 1.4 exhaust manifold, (which 'may' have a different pitch of attachment holes for attachment to the manifold), which is a direct fit on a 1.2 Micra engine, and would appear to have better flow characteristics....
Standard 1 litre and 1.2 manifold.........

Note and Micra 1.4 manifold.....
 
I'm thinking now that the 3 way catalytic converter cover might also be missing.

Thanks for showing me the compare of the two different manifolds versions.


So I probably should just wrap the thing in a heat wrap seems like the best alternative...
And hopefully just as effective but might prove a pain in the buttocks to install..
 
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Found one that has the manifold included and looks like the exhaust sensor is included.
Would this mean having to remove and replace the gasket I take it there isn't much room for drilling/re-tapping without doing so?
Seems to be a lot of parts that wont get used however I go about replacement..
I am only able to replace the part if its not too big of a job.
Have to get some learning in over this summer and if it risks causing other problems such as errors or relearn procedures I would most likely have to put it on the back burner till after the summer has passed..
Atm trying to see if the parts can be separated since I don't want a manifold laying around
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Is that a BX0 or BX2 manifold? If the latter then it would be worth swapping over the whole lot as the BX2 would appear to have better flow characteristics than the BX0.......
 
Its the BX0 and I have requested if can separate the part to single item.EBay item number 322458951828 (can't upload picture via phone but you can look up the item I'm looking at)
Is listed as for cr12 and 1.2 the BX0 stamp is covered and there is no mention of that. Though I assume that it would therefore be the BX0.
My first thought was to put that whole unit in.
Maybe better waiting for a BX2 then.

Edit:- There is another BX2 but that one includes the cat for 80 pound its way over budget for me.
However looks to be in a lot better condition than the first BX0 one I have shown.
 
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On inspection the bolt heads are all visible. Bar one that is slightly not visible so no chance with a socket or spanner.nearest to the(Air con pipe)
Its not that big to drill out they are always a nightmare though as anyone whoever tried removing one with a drill will already know.(wheel nuts are a job and a half when they sheer off).
Most likley will have to get both parts so it can be replaced then drill the other one out and tidy it up for a spare.
Definitely a job for another day

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Well here's what I got to work with it arrived this evening looked rather messy. So I have washed it and gave it a bit of a scrub to see if it can look any better..
First thoughts were it looks worse will know better when it drys.
Long as it shields the heat and does not make funny noises I will be happy.
Could paint it but I think it will look out of place at this point in time.
Next thing to tackle will be the bolt removal.
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Well here's what I got to work with it arrived this evening looked rather messy. So I have washed it and gave it a bit of a scrub to see if it can look any better..
First thoughts were it looks worse will know better when it drys.
Long as it shields the heat and does not make funny noises I will be happy.
Could paint it but I think it will look out of place at this point in time.
Next thing to tackle will be the bolt removal.
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I'd just give it a spray coat of silver paint, wouldn't look much different from OEM.....
 
Was looking around for what happens if one is not installed and seems the paint will lift/peel on the bonnet and the plastics in the bay may become brittle.
Not sure if should use VHT paint or just normal spray.
Today just got as much of the corrosion off the bottom area where its worst. Then started to consider cutting a new straight edge away from the bottom section.
Also need to add double washers so they cover the bolt holes as one of them isn't to dandy that way it should hold in place as intended.

Will be getting VHT silver for the drums soon probably hand painted since saves the need to remove them..
 
Made some ply wooden bases. For the Axlestands so they don't spoil the driveway.
Have also made some wheel stops from an old wooden post. A while back.
I am interested to learn were I can lift the car safely(Pointers to locations under the vehicle might be handy). And is the centre of front or rear is a good or bad idea(lifting both sides in one motion).
Having 2 axle stands so won't be able to lift both ends at first.
Another thing will I need to lift the wheels higher for a regular trolley jack to give extra clearance.
Has not been lowered but doesn't look very high at all.
I just plan to remove the rust from the rear drums first and get comfortable with safely lifting the vehicle if that makes sense...

(Here is a diagram since I could not locate one in a search online.)
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I know its taking along time for me to begin the work but I would rather know I have all of the (Info and Tools together). Before jumping in.
So today ordered some extra brass brushes for the drill some copper grease, Silver high temp paint and two packs of different sized bolts that I am planning on renewing.

May later get some alu foil tape to cover the heat shield as this might be a good idea to cover over the sharp edges could be a better finish than painting as it would look like new metal that way.
 
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Painting the shield I'm not very happy with it atm its not dry yet though.
Still its a lot better than it looked before I started.
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Edit :- the bolts don't want to play ball so I decided to leave it alone for now.
But added the bolts for the headlights and coolant res.
Might have to get some washers though..
After warming the engine up it started to steam from the wd40. So I had another go and managed to get one bolt 2 left.And the turd one needs drilling...
Size M6 12mm length bolt for Manifold (heatshield)...(probably could get away with 10mm and is all that they supply were I got last ones from).
They work out being shorter than the bolts.
I purchased so far there are 16 n 20mm.
Not perfect lengths but near enough for the lights and coolant res..
Could chop them to size but I'd rather keep them whole.

🔥
Going to try the blowtorch on them when it arrives
🔥
 
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Here is what the removed bolt looked like. The others that are left are just about the same.
And the top left has no visible hex.
I'm unable to complete the task at present. as I have to allow the vehicle to be used as a back up for emergencies.
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Edit:- Today have replaced the missing washers.Then notice they should be slightly wider than the ones I have received. Not really sure if that would be important for an mot.
I do believe that for the heatshield it would be wise for the washers to be wider so that there is more surface area to hold in place.
 
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Just been having another idea to get the heatshield on without removing the bolts dunno if it will work but..
Exhaust U bolts. If I can get the clamp around the manifold and attached securely to the heatshield. Then this will be the method that I am going to use.
Might have a large one and a smaller one so I can have a look tomorrow.
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Here is a quick drawing of how I plan to attach without using the factory bolt holes.
After looking at the U shape bolts. They may not fit so greatly over the area I hope to attach.
So now looking at jubilee clips into the areas I have highlighted.
Repositioning of the mountings would be needed. Via drilling then attaching the clips should hold the shield in place for the time being.
That would be a lot more simple than dropping the manifold and drilling out the bolts.
Later a test would be needed to see if it holds and does not make audible sounds. 😒
 

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I would. Like to test. The U bolt to see how that sits around the top area of the manifold. And find out if that would be possible. The lower area should work fine but would have to be a decent sized U bolt.
Otherwise it might have to be fitted by a mechanic. And that seems over the top for a bolt on item.


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These are for broken bolt removal I may order some of these first and see what they can do.
As they should work on the bottom two bolts.
Leaving me with the top left one (my view nearest the air con pipe) That probably they will not be able to grip onto..
Then the U bolt idea could possibly be tried in that problem area.
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Won't be using clips but did see something handy last night for exhaust shields and they are called stainless steel zip ties. (Might be useful for some interested in shielding other areas of the exhaust system) They claim to be very strong and are said to be used on lobster pots as they hold up well to corrosion in a marine environment.
 
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