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Micra Urban Van.

Today I got these to renew the discs and pads they look pretty good.
Soon to be fitted.
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So here is the heater centre console on reverse .
The blue and black cables that move back and forth. Have boots on the ends. That are cylindrical a large and smaller one of those to push in and lock onto the plastic. (On my vehicle/part)
Every one I have looked at so far has a different method to the one I'm replacing.
And the last thing. The slider that run across the center has a square.where the white cable pushes in this part. Has like a round ball at the end kind of like a brake cable on a bicycle.
In the other models of this unit they all seem to be coiled around the plastic in photos where the cable has been cut off to show what cable goes to each part.
The boots could easily be removed to make it work but that might make my cables less efficient when turning the sliders at front.
The slide bar in the center I swapped to try and resolve the last issue but when trying to move it back and forth became jammed and not easy to turn could also make this slightly thinner so it would run freely.
Other than that I can't see how the part is any different except for plastic colour and sizes of the button holding plastic surrounds..
I should have taken a photo of the whole part after removal but only got the part number.

Edit :- Swapped out the fronts it does not clip in very secure but now both the buttons work properly. If a little awkward it will do for me.

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Today I looked again to see if I can see anything similar to the unit Currently installed this one below is very similar or at least looks it from the mech on the back only does not sport Air Con button. so that would not really work.

all I think is needed now is the black plastic from I already know is different sized plastic where the buttons are seems shorter than all the others and in the one I took off mine it seemed to be cut or chewed badly for some reason?

Have contacted some brakers yards to see if they can get hold of an original for me so far have been quoted £104.40 such a ridiculous amount for one of these units that can be picked up for £20
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Mika The Finn

Site Supporter
If you do find one, you may well be able to just swap the front panel and knobs over, negating the necessity to disconnect and refit the control cables.......
Just the thought, flash from the past, almost 3 years ago... :unsure:;)
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Just the thought, flash from the past, almost 3 years ago... :unsure:;)
What I didn't mention (or probably didn't even realise) then, Mika, is that the thin panel, with the dial markings on, surrounding the knobs, also just unclips, after the knobs are removed, and can be changed over. I do rather like that Note panel, a big improvement over the original. :cool:

edit.... Found one on eBay and bought it (£15.19 inc. carriage)..;)
Be aware that if you intend to swap the whole unit do NOT get the Juke one, as while the front panel and knobs appears to be interchangeable with the Micra K12 the rear mechanical block is not the same, with different connections and routing directions for the control cables .......
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The Note version is identical to the K12 unit....
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I'm looking to replace the front part as when I test fitted the one I bought recently it seemed to free the button movement.
But my problem is the plastic bellow the button or behind is shorter than everything else I can see.
It even appears that somebody cut them shorter in the past to make one fit but that seems to cause them to stick.
If you check the images above it says made in France on the label.
And everything on the mech side is white then the connector is clear.

I'm only really trying to make function without the use of a flathead screwdriver to turn them back off.

It was great all but the plastic panel with the cigar socket was not able to clip into place.
So I have reverted back to how it was in first place until I get one.
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I'm looking to replace the front part as when I test fitted the one I bought recently it seemed to free the button movement.
But my problem is the plastic bellow the button or behind is shorter than everything else I can see.
It even appears that somebody cut them shorter in the past to make one fit but that seems to cause them to stick.
If you check the images above it says made in France on the label.
And everything on the mech side is white then the connector is clear.

I'm only really trying to make function without the use of a flathead screwdriver to turn them back off.

It was great all but the plastic panel with the cigar socket was not able to clip into place.
So I have reverted back to how it was in first place until I get one.


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Well my Note panel has just arrived and other than the style of the front plastic panel and knobs it is absolutely identical to the Micra K12 one.......(I have the spare K12 panel that I took the black knobs off of when I replaced the white 'Belling Cooker' style ones, to compare it to)......
 
I must have the only micra in the whole of Europe that does not have a standard heater control.
it may not be the original I would maybe need to ask the garage where it came from. Do they have any information about what has been changed.

The unit I bought may have been dead on arrival all I know is it did not power up. Would be nice if someone could tell me what. Would actually be compatible. Without having to search around for this unavailable part number. The cable connections to direct air are different. and I do not really want to modify them. Unless its the only option.

As far as i know F667 part was showing as compatible so i picked that one. There is also a variation with 01 on the end could possibly be another compatible unit. Both would require cable replacement or modifications.
Currently. I'm waiting on a refund as the part does not show sign of working.
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I must have the only micra in the whole of Europe that does not have a standard heater control.
it may not be the original I would maybe need to ask the garage where it came from. Do they have any information about what has been changed.

The unit I bought may have been dead on arrival all I know is it did not power up. Would be nice if someone could tell me what. Would actually be compatible. Without having to search around for this unavailable part number. The cable connections to direct air are different. and I do not really want to modify them. Unless its the only option.

As far as i know F667 part was showing as compatible so i picked that one. There is also a variation with 01 on the end could possibly be another compatible unit. Both would require cable replacement or modifications.
Currently. I'm waiting on a refund as the part does not show sign of working.
Well this is the Micra K12 unit that I have...
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And this is the Note one.........
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I have just noticed that the Micra one has a separate two wire connector at the top, that the Note one doesn't.....Won't be a problem to me though as I'm just Just swapping the front and knobs over.....
edit:- both units have A/C and heated rear screen buttons.....
 
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Do you know anything about boots on the cables or are they just cables with no black plastic (boot clips) to secure them to the unit

Edit:- Was going to take them off but they are molded onto the cable plastic.
If this was possible.
It could be also possible to remove all the board and place it into the unit I bought.(if it was to fit it would be a miracle)
That's just an idea I had that could make it fit correctly.
Since I was unable to remove the boots without cutting them. I decided that the swap over of each individual part seems like a lot of hassle.
And may render the heater blower source unworkable.
My best option would have been to remove both button caps and the centers to let the switches under buttons work freely without being jammed. I clipped back in the original as I thought I had made them move more freely.
 
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Here is slightly better image of a controller that is as close as I can find to the one that I have.
This is why it does not swap over for my heat control unit..
The image is not exact same product as mine but you should be able to see that the front plastic has shorter length where the buttons are.

It would be great if some one could confirm or say you can or can't use different versions of this part.
I strongly go by matching the part in all cases.
But on this occasion.
I'm asking if anybody had tried a none matching unit and if so did they get it to work.

Imo on this unit I have installed I do not believe that it is the original and also may be or most definitely has been joined together from two separate units.

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Well that was 'interesting'.........
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All in place and everything works......
BUT definitely NOT a straight swap over on a 2006 K12 :mad:
I was comparing the 'Note' heater control, front panel donor unit, with the spare 'Micra' one I bought about 3 years ago, for the black knobs, and everything was identical and swapped over on the bench, however when I stripped down the dash on the car to fit the panel all was NOT the same:(. It would appear that Nissan changed the units on the Micra K12, very subtly, sometime after 2006 when they fitted ones with black knobs to the K12 (they probably 'standardised' and fitted the same units as the Note ones) so my replacement is either from a very late K12 or a Note:cry:.
I now understand your comments about the A/C and heated rear screen buttons being too long.
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As a comparison, the Micra one is the top one.
The profile is also different, the Micra buttons having square flanges...
I decided that if I altered the profile of the Micra buttons to the rounded form, so that they would slide in the Note front panel, top one standard, lower one modified (craft knife and file)........
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then 'all' I would need to do would be to shorten the button housings in the Note panel to the same length as the Micra ones....
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Again junior hacksaw, craft knife and file, the one on the right is modified, with the modified Micra button fitted, and on the left unmodified, with Note button fitted....
These are the bits I cut off of the panel....
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So there you have it, it is possible if you really try:cool:
 
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You see the last bit you cut off this was the bit that was stopping mine from springing back out because they had been cut off in a bad angle.
I had taken the file to them flat again.
Also along the button parts that run inside the plastic groove.
So probably if I give them a proper good file down again it will free them.
Or I can cut and modify the one I have bought. Buttons and front panel and that will actually fit better than a half cut and break. That was already on the panel before I tested the replacement.
Also I had no intentions of modifying the part. As the micra one should be a simple plug and play fit without cutting anything.

That actually does look better than the original.

btw my micra was first registered in March 05 and that would make it a very early 05 release. I'm guessing as with electronics part they change them very slightly every year or so.
To prevent us from. (Replacing one small item).
In the hope that we will buy a bran new one.

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Have been looking at the valeo heater controls and yea this is getting annoying repeated questions.

Since I cannot find one would it not be a good idea for me to replace the whole thing. With an electronic system.
As far as I can see would need the panel and controller..
How that would work or what parts would be out of my knowledge so far.
I'm not bothered for it being electronically controlled but could be a future upgrade option.

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Have been looking at the valeo heater controls and yea this is getting annoying repeated questions.

Since I cannot find one would it not be a good idea for me to replace the whole thing. With an electronic system.
As far as I can see would need the panel and controller..
How that would work or what parts would be out of my knowledge so far.
I'm not bothered for it being electronically controlled but could be a future upgrade option.

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
Can't find one? Lots on eBay, THIS ONE at £12 inc p&p looks to be a bargain... Don't think the electronic system retrofit would be a viable job.......
 
Going to have a go at wrapping the interior trim because there are a few scuffs on the panels.
This is partly another reason for me not rushing into cutting up the part I got since it will make for a nicer finish.
I'm sticking with the ordinary k12 one and then the plastic trim surrounds will be going dark grey matt.
It should improve the look.

Will take some before and after shots and if it works good I might wrap the mirrors as well.
 
Just added a stumpy aerial seems to work alright but might want a rubber seal adding as the ones provided seem a little oversized.
Have started practice of wrapping and am not that great so far have done the door handle trim and they don't really wrap very easy plus one of the clips broke while removing.
The wrap is so close to the trim colour. Thought it would be much darker grey.
Very hard to even notice a difference apart from the scuffs and scratches are gone.

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Just added a stumpy aerial seems to work alright but might want a rubber seal adding as the ones provided seem a little oversized.
Have started practice of wrapping and am not that great so far have done the door handle trim and they don't really wrap very easy plus one of the clips broke while removing.
The wrap is so close to the trim colour. Thought it would be much darker grey.
Very hard to even notice a difference apart from the scuffs and scratches are gone.

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Sadly a stumpy aerial is fashion over form, suppose it all comes down to looks or decent radio reception...............
 
I do not use the radio much if at all it picked up most stations and its pretty much the same as before local station does not work occasionally. So could just be reception on the day.
Its mainly for looks as the original is really long. And not exactly modern looking it kind of does not match the rest of the vehicle for me.
Edit:-
As for the wrapping of interior trim so far and this was my first attempt with heat gun and cutting tools etc.
First I wrapped the top part of the center console.
That went on a charm and looks good.
Second I was giving the door handle trim a try.These proved to be a little more tricky and seem to get a lot of wrinkling at the outer circular edge.
I'm probably going to remove and give them another layer when I get a bit better at the process.
Mainly I want to focus on the central part on the dash,Also above the speedometer then the heater blowers at each side.
 
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Yeah I was going to try and finish it off this week.
It really isn't worth showing the work so far. And I'm not really in the mood to even look at the car. After my instructor didn't show up for my first driving test day...



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This is the wrap I'm currently testing. Not sure why dark grey appears to be silver. But is a perfect match to the trim colour I have.
I'm rather annoyed as I was expecting it to be more of a gun metal grey.
Am glad I did not buy it in large quantity although the quality seems okay.
Screenshot_2019-10-16-21-07-30.jpeg


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So far I have been advised to get the ordinary grey matt as this one seems to be darker than dark matt grey.
I am now trying to get some more information on what colour I should pick.
To best match the KY0 G silver chrome for my rear side windows.
This part is not something I wanted to rush into doing and then not matching up right.
 
The dash is grey. Seems light grey to me and no I'm not colour blind.
It's definitely silver and surrounding dash etc are grey.
Edit:- I was happy to see today. They offered me a refund and are sending out the correct colour I ordered.
So at least I can still test the grey eventually..
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Had a go at getting the calipers off the 13mm bolts do not want to budge.
Bottom one was very loose fitting for the 13mm spanner..
Gave them a good brush down. Sprayed them to see if they would free up but no joy so far so have put the wheel back on for now.
On the plus side.
I got a better idea of how to jack up the car properly on the axle stand safely.

Edit :- With the bolts being so badly rusted. I'm now wondering if this is a common part that I should consider renewing. As they should really be a tight fitting on a brand new 13mm socket/spanner set.
Don't have any photos to show this as I was hoping to get the caliper off first.Then show the before and after with the new discs installed.

Haha was turning it in the wrong direction.
 
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So these are what I'm looking at getting next.
I'm not so sure if I'm gonna need them though as they seem to have been provided with the brake parts I bought recently the slider pins however are not provided.

First image is the ones I have now. Second image is what I'm guessing I should get in case they do not remove easy.

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Started working on the rear drum on driver side. To see how much work its going to take to remove all the rust.
Its not even close to being finished but now I can see some progress at last.

Edit:-
The other thing I noticed is this is the wheel that has a broken screw in the tyre. Once I'm done its going in to get a new set all round.
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Does anyone know if we paint the drums and front calipers with high temp paint. Then add normal top coat of colour paint onto the high temp will this cause the top coat to flake.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Does anyone know if we paint the drums and front calipers with high temp paint. Then add normal top coat of colour paint onto the high temp will this cause the top coat to flake.
Sounds eminently possible.....by the way mask off the face on the hub/drums that the wheel mates with you really need metal to metal contact with the wheels.....
 
Have seen lots painting the whole drum face. Something I will definitely avoid doing.

I'm just going to go with the high temp silver. That I have left over hopefully this will go far enough to cover both. Then later I may add a high temp colour such as black.
Only reason for normal paint.
Would be custom colours that may not be available in high temp tins.
But I should be pleased enough. With a standard colour to protect the drum from rusting quickly again.

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Have seen lots painting the whole drum face. Something I will definitely avoid doing.

I'm just going to go with the high temp silver. That I have left over hopefully this will go far enough to cover both. Then later I may add a high temp colour such as black.
Only reason for normal paint.
Would be custom colours that may not be available in high temp tins.
But I should be pleased enough. With a standard colour to protect the drum from rusting quickly again.

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The trouble with high temp paints is that you really have to 'cure' them prior to in intial use or they don't stay looking good. Not a problem with an exhaust manifold, you just start the engine then leave it on tick over for a while, but on brake parts this is not quite so simple. When I painted the rear drums on my MG Midget with red VHT paint, I cured them in our kitchen oven! (no bearing attached to the drums), I cannot describe the amount of strong smelling smoke that appeared when I opened the oven door, after an hour, to remove them, my wife was NOT amused! In hindsight I should have left them in there to cool down, but was in a hurry to remove the incriminating evidence, before she found out what I was doing, but it had just the opposite effect... :ROFLMAO:
 
When I get chance I will try to get a larger socket. (30mm) That will fit that way I could remove them. Then make a much better job at removing the rust.
Then when its time to paint I could possible use a heat gun or blow torch at a safe distance to cure the paint.
Don't really think ovens and car parts mix very well in my opinion.

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Today I have just received my gift from euro car parts.
This was for writing a review.
In the box it has 5 products they include.
Wash and wax,window clean,interior cleaner also tyre and wheel shine.
These products are a (Triple QX) Brand that I have not used or tested before.
Will put up some photos of results. After using each product as most of these items I have not tried before. Such as interior cleaner and glass cleaner.

Edit :- here is a one time use promo for 34% off not sure if it will work for you its valid till 12 tonight..
CRX25ZLG

Seems a shame to ignore this so I have included the code.



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So my exhaust muffler has started to pap its self again:mad:. On inspection its seems to be rusted at the backbox exit point. Mostly at the back I am trying to find some point of drain as I think might have water standing inside.
Any how if I am to replace this part. Wondering if it will be possible to fit one that does not have the ridiculously curved pipe that is totally hidden from view unless you are under the vehicle. (Possible curve cut into the rear bumper if this helps with clearance.)
The muffler at present seems to be a nissan original. (Seems to still be working for now..)
Please excuse the bad photo as this was really awkward to do after all the rain we been having recently.
The second image shown is what I would like to be fitted.
Though I'm sure this will not exactly have the same curves to make fitment without modification.
Have seen others doing straight pipes and removing this from the system (not really my cup of tea)
 

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
So my exhaust muffler has started to pap its self again:mad:. On inspection its seems to be rusted at the backbox exit point. Mostly at the back I am trying to find some point of drain as I think might have water standing inside.
Any how if I am to replace this part. Wondering if it will be possible to fit one that does not have the ridiculously curved pipe that is totally hidden from view unless you are under the vehicle. (Possible curve cut into the rear bumper if this helps with clearance.)
The muffler at present seems to be a nissan original. (Seems to still be working for now..)
Please excuse the bad photo as this was really awkward to do after all the rain we been having recently.
The second image shown is what I would like to be fitted.
Though I'm sure this will not exactly have the same curves to make fitment without modification.
Have seen others doing straight pipes and removing this from the system (not really my cup of tea)
From your pictures you will see that there are two different fitment types to the middle exhaust section, a two bolt clamped flange joint and a slide over, 'U' bolt clamped joint, get the right one to suit your car. AFAIK the flange joint was fitted to cars between 2003 and 2005, then late in 2005 the U bolt clamped joint was fitted, as on my Sport+. On my original OEM box I just cut off the curved section of the outlet pipe, leaving a short straight stub, which I clamped a short straight pipe to , to exit the bumper.
After about 20K miles the box failed at the point that the inlet pipe went into it, my neibours were not impressed! (unless you think that you can get away/live with a really noisy exhaust do NOT contemplate replacing the rear box with a straight pipe!) Sadly the replacement (cheap ebay aftermarket) box, which fitted perfectly, had an exit pipe that curved right from the point of leaving the rear of the box with no short straight section prior to turning down, so was unable to fit my straight exhaust tail pipe ?.
 
I think it has the bolt clamp joint.
The rest of the exhaust looks okay on the outside.
Mid section etc still look decent enough.
I'm happy in that it does not blow or anything yet.
After inspecting photos of others I cannot see any drain hole.
And also after a good few searches I came up with the conclusion. That I should just match the part. Best I can to make sure it is a straight swap over.

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Tested interior cleaner on some mats. They are not that bad to begin with.
My opinion warm water would do just as good a job probably.
Not sure if they were really bad might have more effect then.
Could probably use more. But no need to drench them to clear small foot prints in the center of the mat.(As this would just make more work and take all day to dry)

(Cannot justify buying the product in the future.From the so far result. But may try once more to see if different mat reacts differently)
Before and after.

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Here a little something I wanted to share for those who like to save coinage.
Free nut cover caps (bottle tops that cannot be recycled?)
I'm definitely going to try these if the fit right on.

Edit :- I'm going for lemon and lime flavor wheel caps probably.

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Hopefully they get stuck that way they won't fall off. They did fall out when I flipped the wheel over.
I'm trying to reuse them. As they get thrown in the bin and cannot be recycled.

Edit :- The do not hold in place as I thought. So would need some thing to hold them in place.

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First test with the wash and wax no before shots.
At first I was disappointed as the product is not really that thick has virtually zero smell so I had to cheat a little. Added some cherry scented wash that I normally use.(At least that makes the job more fun)
Then since this product is so watery and seems to have very little of anything wax or shampoo wash wise. I doubled up and put 6 caps to 4L.
I have washed only using a low pressure sprayer bottle. As this is normally my stage one of a wash.
So here is how it looks after application.
And even though I'm disappointed still with the visual and everything else about the product.
The result of the contact-less wash and rinse is actually not that bad.
Because there is a decent reflection and it isn't all that streaky.
Oh yea I also use a warm water so the product has an extra bite to it.
Would have to say it will do much better when in the foam cannon.
Just wanted a quick test to see if its even worth using.
Imo its good to add with something else.
The car isn't dry yet properly so I cannot say the patches are streaks as every other area looks fine.
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Wheel and tyre and wheel cleaner before and after.
Probably the only other part from this set that I really wanted.
I will let the pictures give the review on this one.

Edit :- note from last review of wash and wax the vehicle is not rinsed properly and looks like it needs doing again already.
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Would I need thread lock on the brake carrier bolts and if yes does it need to be red or blue.
I am asking this as I know the bolts that replace the caliper ones have thread lock pre applied.
Can see the product being useful to have just unsure
 
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