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Micra Urban Van.

Got my full size spare and will be test fitting it tomorrow in the wheel well
its a steel rim 15 inch so matches okay better than space saver IMO
Has taken so long to find one would have liked to have a full set.
They gonna be hard to store over summer time for use as winter wheels if I ever manage to find three more:rolleyes:..
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Got my full size spare and will be test fitting it tomorrow in the wheel well
its a steel rim 15 inch so matches okay better than space saver IMO
Has taken so long to find one would have liked to have a full set.
They gonna be hard to store over summer time for use as winter wheels if I ever manage to find three more:rolleyes:..
Been there, done that, full information, showing all the problems and how to get round them HERE......
 
I'm going to get a longer bolt and put a plate to fit on the original area bolt that down and then bolt the wheel to that.
Or just bolt in through the wheel nut area.
Seems a very tight fit. (With this tyre.)
This wheel is 175 65 15r.
I'm guessing the 60 is a better fit.
Have measured the bolt and I need longer than 14cm to clear the gap in between.
Also the boot carpet sticks up a little something I will have to modify later with my woodworking skills. Probably will be some ply wood with feet attached.
Also need to figure where I'm going to place my jack etc..

Any reason this does not work out well will probably cut and add the insert as you have done. (My method should be reversible)
The only problem I can see so far is fitting the jack in as the wheel is not reversed so it could possibly go on underside.
Edit :-
Just noticed another major floor in this and that is the seats will not go back only half way.
So no leg room for rear seat passengers.
Worst thing about this is I'm very tall and the drives seat only one click from being fully extended.
This leave room for people with legs but no feet.
Did your rear seat go back and forward fully or was it limited in anyway?
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I'm going to get a longer bolt and put a plate to fit on the original area bolt that down and then bolt the wheel to that.
Or just bolt in through the wheel nut area.
Seems a very tight fit. (With this tyre.)
This wheel is 175 65 15r.
I'm guessing the 60 is a better fit.
Have measured the bolt and I need longer than 14cm to clear the gap in between.
Also the boot carpet sticks up a little something I will have to modify later with my woodworking skills. Probably will be some ply wood with feet attached.
Also need to figure where I'm going to place my jack etc..

Any reason this does not work out well will probably cut and add the insert as you have done. (My method should be reversible)
The only problem I can see so far is fitting the jack in as the wheel is not reversed so it could possibly go on underside.
Lot more detail HERE, I couldn't just fit a longer bolt as the original fixing point is not in the centre of the spare wheel well and with a full size wheel and tyre the centre of the wheel does not line up with it, hence the new clamp down nutsert, which allows the wheel to be fitted face down, leaving room for the jack and tools, problem solved ;)
 
So I'm looking at how I will fix the wheel in place in much the same way as John_D. has shown.
I have this idea to add.
The bolt gets reversed so it bolts up through the bottom closing the open area with a hex bolt shape instead of an exposed open thread.
And the idea came from computer chair/an old steering wheel clamp from a console or computer controller.
I no long have this but they are available with the M8 Thread for a reasonable price.

So the top an open ended threaded screw fitting that clamps down onto the long bolt.

I'm not saying its a lot better of an idea but I did notice you said that the bolt was exposed on the outside.
Screenshot_2019-12-13-17-48-14_1.jpeg


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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
So I'm looking at how I will fix the wheel in place in much the same way as John_D. has shown.
I have this idea to add.
The bolt gets reversed so it bolts up through the bottom closing the open area with a hex bolt shape instead of an exposed open thread.
And the idea came from computer chair/an old steering wheel clamp from a console or computer controller.
I no long have this but they are available with the M8 Thread for a reasonable price.

So the top an open ended threaded screw fitting that clamps down onto the long bolt.

I'm not saying its a lot better of an idea but I did notice you said that the bolt was exposed on the outside. View attachment 66485

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The one downside of that method is that you tend to damage the paint on the wheel when you try to drop it over the bolt. With a full size wheel in the wheel well there is very little room to manouver the wheel into the well (due to the boot lip and the rake of the back seat, you have to present the wheel into the boot at almost 45 degrees, not just drop it in flat) and to get the bolt sticking up into the hole in the centre of the wheel without digging it into the face of the wheel.....
 
What about the rear passenger seats? Since I have the feeling it only pushed back half way (only tested from sitting in the front so might just be me dunno yet) will have to double check that from in the boot area.
I'm considering swapping the steel wheel to the full sized alloy
I am aware that the wheel will only go in if your persuade it from the 45 degree angle.
With the alloy i can at least test two different types of tyres I have already to find a perfect fit. the 175 65 15R does not fit very well its very limited. But 175 60 15R or lower probably better suited to the size of the well. this is obviously different with the wheels you are using in compare.
The seat being fully returned to its furthest position is a really important feature that I need to have.

Paint being damaged did cross my mind.when the wheel is seated in place and as you have mentioned.
You can add foam pads to the surface inside the well. (not really fussy if I painted the wheel)
As I could see is only one these pads but are easy to find and install.
I think I was careful enough not to scratch any paint off.
But with the wheel in reversed mode I can see how that would happen.

Have Found a useful guide to using the nutsert that uses a M8 thread a long M10 bolt ( higher sized than the thread)then a nut and a drill Probably would work with most sizes. Just thought I would add this because I think others may find this information useful no actual tool required other than the drill that most people have already.
oh yea and last thing is when the bolt is reversed as the clamp with a bolt pushed into the clamp would also work well to hold down the wheel so no need for the threaded screw I have shown above.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
My wheels are 6J x16" and fitted with 185-50-16 tyres and the spare is a 'snug' fit in the wheel well......
 
Okay so after looking again it will go back to almost the last click and that is probably more than enough space..
I also noticed a missing item for the scissor jack the small bar to turn it?
Would have been nice to get a flat and not be able to lift the car
I can use something else that will work

Any how I did not show the wheel I got
This was bought recently from eBay for a decent price of 22.50
I thought it was too good of a deal to miss out on.
Its mostly brand new with a bit of dust from storage..
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Okay so after looking again it will go back to almost the last click and that is probably more than enough space..
I also noticed a missing item for the scissor jack the small bar to turn it?
Would have been nice to get a flat and not be able to lift the car
I can use something else that will work

Any how I did not show the wheel I got
This was bought recently from eBay for a decent price of 22.50
I thought it was too good of a deal to miss out on.
Its mostly brand new with a bit of dust from storage..
View attachment 66517View attachment 66518

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Never been on the road, good make of tyre, almost certainly original fitment when the car, that it came from, was new, which sadly would make the tyre at least 10 years old and past it's best, 😢 (the age can be confirmed with the date code on the tyre...)
 
I bought the wheel for the rim not the tyre These are 60+ pounds for a single steel wheel rim and 200 for a set of 4 without tyres
The tyre is just like a free item with the steel rim.
I was expecting to pay at least 30 pounds for just the rim alone.
But he offered me it for 15
I wanted 4 but he only had one.
The dot is 10/04 so from an 04.
The tread isn't very soft as a brand new tyre but over all it still feels as though its decent enough to be used. I'm aware that road noise would be not good running on this (however it gives me an actual view of a Bridgestone tyres compound plus the 65 side wall height) because I want to try them up front and rear if they fit properly.
Although it is mostly planned as a stand in for the wheel that I work on.

So overall I'm happy for the multiple uses I have planned.

The rim is stamped Nissan 15x5 1/2JH2X50 and Google search returned this product came from a facelift. So not sure why the tyre is 04
I could be wrong I'm no expert

edit :- My mistake the part for this is 40300ax707 they are readily available as new and plenty of used ones on ebay

https://nissan-europe.epc-data.com/micra/k12e/233-cr12de/axle_and_suspension/433/40300/
I found this site to be useful as this lists all the steel and alloy wheels with trims and caps ect.
Should be helpful for anyone trying to find a specific match
 
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Have recently got an engineers vice to hold small items for brushing and cutting etc..
Still need to mount it to the bench but am going to attempt to make the vice portable so I can use it more often.
Today I was wire brushing and cleaning the wheel bolts.
Got one side done just need to do other side next..
 
Finally got one side done..
Currently looking at SR front suspension.
These are really disappointing to look at
The rear ones seem to look pretty decent tho still..
After a lot of brushing and spraying the bolts. I find this micra is actually quite easy to work on.


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Okay so I have noticed so far that one of the shims on this driver side was missing.
I know they were working effectively before the change over that is still in progress..
When fitting the pads the inner one was a really tight fit with only one shim that I returned to the top and this appears to be the same at other side.
I'm thinking I should get some of the shims asap and put them in.
Maybe brush out the areas more for the shims. Although I did hit them quite well the lower area did not seem flat as the top part.
I can't see it being something I would want to miss out after replacing both the pads and disks.

Also this is the possible problem that has caused me to have to replace the disks maybe...
So am currently searching for shims hopefully they are easy to get hold of and not too expensive if you know if any for cheap please inbox me with info thanks

Pagid Brake Pad Fitting Accessory (Front) £ 8.42 was the ones I picked. From car parts 4 less.

This will also give me a chance to break in the new dremel tool. Maybe tidy up the calipers further and possibly give them a touch of paint.
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Finally got one side done..
Currently looking at SR front suspension.
These are really disappointing to look at
The rear ones seem to look pretty decent tho still..
After a lot of brushing and spraying the bolts. I find this micra is actually quite easy to work on.


View attachment 66885View attachment 66886
That is some SERIOUS rust on those struts!! Mine , at approaching 100K miles, still have all of their original paint!
 
I'm guessing that they are way past there best though it pass an mot with those. The rear are way better condition and more what one would expect them to look like.
If I can get a pair I would certainly make the effort to install them myself.
Have asked a breaker but he probably doesn't deliver.
Plus I'd like to be able to see what I'm buying as after looking at used ones I can see mine are not the only ones with major rust..
Would they swap straight over the 160SR suspension without modification.?
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I'm guessing that they are way past there best though it pass an mot with those. The rear are way better condition and more what one would expect them to look like.
If I can get a pair I would certainly make the effort to install them myself.
Have asked a breaker but he probably doesn't deliver.
Plus I'd like to be able to see what I'm buying as after looking at used ones I can see mine are not the only ones with major rust..
Would they swap straight over the 160SR suspension without modification.?
I would assume that the 160SR struts, would be a straight swap, ideally complete with the top mounts, only difference is the damper stiffness and the spring length/stiffness (different spring rate). About 20K miles ago I did a complete spring change on mine, fitting a set of 160SR springs all round, bought from a member on here who fitted some Eibach lowering springs to his 160SR.
As part of the 'Sports Suspension' package I believe that the 160SR has a stiffer front ARB as well......I fitted Koni sports rear shocks on mine at the same time as the spring change.
 
Should I grind down the sliders on the carrier bracket or the brake pad lugs.
Or perhaps both
The carrier has nice flat slider at one side and the other side had deep scratches.
I'm thinking that I should file or grind it flat.
Then fit the shims and if that's still too tight fitting I take some material off the brake pad lugs on the area that is tight fitting.
I'm still awaiting the shims and its raining today. So going to hang on till they arrive so I can finish drivers side.

As for the suspension, I may try brushing that off and see if the look okay. Should they not be then I will just leave them But if they are I'm going to attempt to paint the metal part. Once brakes are completed.
As the shocks do still function well. And are good when pressing down on the front of the vehicle.
 
I'm guessing that they are way past there best though it pass an mot with those. The rear are way better condition and more what one would expect them to look like.
If I can get a pair I would certainly make the effort to install them myself.
Have asked a breaker but he probably doesn't deliver.
Plus I'd like to be able to see what I'm buying as after looking at used ones I can see mine are not the only ones with major rust..
Would they swap straight over the 160SR suspension without modification.?
I have set of 4 160SR springs in my garage, in case you or someone else needs them. Just for clarification, springs are located in the Land of the Finns. No idea of postage cost...? :unsure:
 
I was quoted 40 for the front set from a local breaker.
Not sure what he wanted for the rear pair.
Atm my budget won't stretch that far as I'm trying to acquire the steel wheels and then put new tyres on those.
The job of fitting springs may take a while also.
I'm sure the postage will be high to send here to the uk.
In the mean time I must concentrate my efforts on the brake job and make sure they are correct and replaced properly [emoji41

Edit :- Brake pads and discs fully installed.
So as for the shims passenger side had both installed but had to take one out of this side for the pads to fit.
I know this isn't ideal but I do have the part ready in case I have any issues.
And I'm aware that you can grind the lugs off the pads. I did not touch them so far but hit the carrier hard. With wire brush and dremel tool to reveal the flat surface..
The first side has already rust patches even though we had not had any rain.
Not really too bothered about it at least I know they will last the life of the car now.
Just need to run them in and get some tyres picked out next.
Everything went smoothly and if I needed them doing I would certainly install them myself again.
Should have taken a snap just forgot.
Maybe upload some when the tyres are installed.
Seems like a decade has passed for this micra wanting a new set of shoes..
Edit 2 :- Completed drum brake rust removal on passenger side. Have brushed off most of the build up on the wheels each time.
Wasn't really sure where to locate the axle stand. on the passenger side rear so just used the jack stand probably just need to place under the rear axle tho.
Did not bother to take any shots but it came up pretty good like the other side after three passes of the wire wheels for drill.
Those are dekton brand. I'm amazed at how robust and long lasting they are. After all of the jobs so far I have done I'm still using the first small one of a packet if 6. The cup brush also they would easily do the job again if needed.
Edit 3 :- air con and rear screen heater buttons now spring back properly at long last..
Now is time to figure out what else can be done next...
The heater unit I purchased is now a spare. Has the white cooker style knobs and is fs667 I will keep this handy as a backup for the lights ect.
 
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Electric window passengers side.
So here I get this problem.
The window works fine after sticking.
On the run downwards.
I notice that the glass moves back and forth unlike the drivers side.
What could this be causing it to stick and only happen after door has been opened.
My first thought was to get a mechanism as it seems slow but does work fine buttons as well..
Has anyone changed one out on the k12 or can point me to a guide for this.

Also want to try replace the gear shift linkage / gear Selector. Not sure if would make all that much difference though i still think its worth a try.
The rear arch also needs some paint at the very bottom would not take much to tidy this part up.

Just got some high temp black rustoleum paint.
That I plan to paint the rear drums with.
Should be enough to do also the springs at front
Calipers not sure I think I'm going to use the silver just to use it up as the stick ones appear silver from what I have seen of the TRW branded calipers..
The spray can may also be useful for under the arches up front.
Then I'm going to get me the tyres after I'm done with the little jobs behind the wheels.
Will probably take some pics tomorrow after the painting.

For tyres I'm going to get fitted the following.
Either Toyo tyres nano energy 3 (at rear)
Was going to get toyo up front but the 65 side height is questionable as I have no idea if this would work or be allowed by the fitters.

Or cheap ones up front and the energy 3 at rear.
Trying to achieve stock sizes.this seems to cause me big delays though.
As at first thought I would go with the toyo brand up front. That would seem the more sensible option. Although makes the change quite a bit more expensive for little or no gain IMO.
Shame really cause I would love to have them all match or least be same brand and style of tread type.
 
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Painting drums calipers and suspension struts.
It's taken up a few hours to do both sides.
All done.
Definitely worth the effort makes a huge difference not perfect a lot better though..
Next job to make the pads fit nicer waiting on a metal file to help achieve this.
Also need some larger clips or buttons for the front inner arch plastic covers or guards.
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So they call them splash guard clips the ones I could see looked like this on other side.
the last clips I bought I already know they wont hold it in place or I would use those.
Have also had to grab one of these handles. For the jack as there isn't one in with the spare and being left stranded isn't a great idea.
However it just dawned on me that the wheel nut bar might have it inside because the end is pointed plastic :rolleyes:?


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