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Micra Urban Van.

Got my full size spare and will be test fitting it tomorrow in the wheel well
its a steel rim 15 inch so matches okay better than space saver IMO
Has taken so long to find one would have liked to have a full set.
They gonna be hard to store over summer time for use as winter wheels if I ever manage to find three more:rolleyes:..
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Got my full size spare and will be test fitting it tomorrow in the wheel well
its a steel rim 15 inch so matches okay better than space saver IMO
Has taken so long to find one would have liked to have a full set.
They gonna be hard to store over summer time for use as winter wheels if I ever manage to find three more:rolleyes:..
Been there, done that, full information, showing all the problems and how to get round them HERE......
 
I'm going to get a longer bolt and put a plate to fit on the original area bolt that down and then bolt the wheel to that.
Or just bolt in through the wheel nut area.
Seems a very tight fit. (With this tyre.)
This wheel is 175 65 15r.
I'm guessing the 60 is a better fit.
Have measured the bolt and I need longer than 14cm to clear the gap in between.
Also the boot carpet sticks up a little something I will have to modify later with my woodworking skills. Probably will be some ply wood with feet attached.
Also need to figure where I'm going to place my jack etc..

Any reason this does not work out well will probably cut and add the insert as you have done. (My method should be reversible)
The only problem I can see so far is fitting the jack in as the wheel is not reversed so it could possibly go on underside.
Edit :-
Just noticed another major floor in this and that is the seats will not go back only half way.
So no leg room for rear seat passengers.
Worst thing about this is I'm very tall and the drives seat only one click from being fully extended.
This leave room for people with legs but no feet.
Did your rear seat go back and forward fully or was it limited in anyway?
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I'm going to get a longer bolt and put a plate to fit on the original area bolt that down and then bolt the wheel to that.
Or just bolt in through the wheel nut area.
Seems a very tight fit. (With this tyre.)
This wheel is 175 65 15r.
I'm guessing the 60 is a better fit.
Have measured the bolt and I need longer than 14cm to clear the gap in between.
Also the boot carpet sticks up a little something I will have to modify later with my woodworking skills. Probably will be some ply wood with feet attached.
Also need to figure where I'm going to place my jack etc..

Any reason this does not work out well will probably cut and add the insert as you have done. (My method should be reversible)
The only problem I can see so far is fitting the jack in as the wheel is not reversed so it could possibly go on underside.
Lot more detail HERE, I couldn't just fit a longer bolt as the original fixing point is not in the centre of the spare wheel well and with a full size wheel and tyre the centre of the wheel does not line up with it, hence the new clamp down nutsert, which allows the wheel to be fitted face down, leaving room for the jack and tools, problem solved ;)
 
So I'm looking at how I will fix the wheel in place in much the same way as John_D. has shown.
I have this idea to add.
The bolt gets reversed so it bolts up through the bottom closing the open area with a hex bolt shape instead of an exposed open thread.
And the idea came from computer chair/an old steering wheel clamp from a console or computer controller.
I no long have this but they are available with the M8 Thread for a reasonable price.

So the top an open ended threaded screw fitting that clamps down onto the long bolt.

I'm not saying its a lot better of an idea but I did notice you said that the bolt was exposed on the outside.
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
So I'm looking at how I will fix the wheel in place in much the same way as John_D. has shown.
I have this idea to add.
The bolt gets reversed so it bolts up through the bottom closing the open area with a hex bolt shape instead of an exposed open thread.
And the idea came from computer chair/an old steering wheel clamp from a console or computer controller.
I no long have this but they are available with the M8 Thread for a reasonable price.

So the top an open ended threaded screw fitting that clamps down onto the long bolt.

I'm not saying its a lot better of an idea but I did notice you said that the bolt was exposed on the outside. View attachment 66485

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The one downside of that method is that you tend to damage the paint on the wheel when you try to drop it over the bolt. With a full size wheel in the wheel well there is very little room to manouver the wheel into the well (due to the boot lip and the rake of the back seat, you have to present the wheel into the boot at almost 45 degrees, not just drop it in flat) and to get the bolt sticking up into the hole in the centre of the wheel without digging it into the face of the wheel.....
 
What about the rear passenger seats? Since I have the feeling it only pushed back half way (only tested from sitting in the front so might just be me dunno yet) will have to double check that from in the boot area.
I'm considering swapping the steel wheel to the full sized alloy
I am aware that the wheel will only go in if your persuade it from the 45 degree angle.
With the alloy i can at least test two different types of tyres I have already to find a perfect fit. the 175 65 15R does not fit very well its very limited. But 175 60 15R or lower probably better suited to the size of the well. this is obviously different with the wheels you are using in compare.
The seat being fully returned to its furthest position is a really important feature that I need to have.

Paint being damaged did cross my mind.when the wheel is seated in place and as you have mentioned.
You can add foam pads to the surface inside the well. (not really fussy if I painted the wheel)
As I could see is only one these pads but are easy to find and install.
I think I was careful enough not to scratch any paint off.
But with the wheel in reversed mode I can see how that would happen.

Have Found a useful guide to using the nutsert that uses a M8 thread a long M10 bolt ( higher sized than the thread)then a nut and a drill Probably would work with most sizes. Just thought I would add this because I think others may find this information useful no actual tool required other than the drill that most people have already.
oh yea and last thing is when the bolt is reversed as the clamp with a bolt pushed into the clamp would also work well to hold down the wheel so no need for the threaded screw I have shown above.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
My wheels are 6J x16" and fitted with 185-50-16 tyres and the spare is a 'snug' fit in the wheel well......
 
Okay so after looking again it will go back to almost the last click and that is probably more than enough space..
I also noticed a missing item for the scissor jack the small bar to turn it?
Would have been nice to get a flat and not be able to lift the car
I can use something else that will work

Any how I did not show the wheel I got
This was bought recently from eBay for a decent price of 22.50
I thought it was too good of a deal to miss out on.
Its mostly brand new with a bit of dust from storage..
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Okay so after looking again it will go back to almost the last click and that is probably more than enough space..
I also noticed a missing item for the scissor jack the small bar to turn it?
Would have been nice to get a flat and not be able to lift the car
I can use something else that will work

Any how I did not show the wheel I got
This was bought recently from eBay for a decent price of 22.50
I thought it was too good of a deal to miss out on.
Its mostly brand new with a bit of dust from storage..
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Never been on the road, good make of tyre, almost certainly original fitment when the car, that it came from, was new, which sadly would make the tyre at least 10 years old and past it's best, 😢 (the age can be confirmed with the date code on the tyre...)
 
I bought the wheel for the rim not the tyre These are 60+ pounds for a single steel wheel rim and 200 for a set of 4 without tyres
The tyre is just like a free item with the steel rim.
I was expecting to pay at least 30 pounds for just the rim alone.
But he offered me it for 15
I wanted 4 but he only had one.
The dot is 10/04 so from an 04.
The tread isn't very soft as a brand new tyre but over all it still feels as though its decent enough to be used. I'm aware that road noise would be not good running on this (however it gives me an actual view of a Bridgestone tyres compound plus the 65 side wall height) because I want to try them up front and rear if they fit properly.
Although it is mostly planned as a stand in for the wheel that I work on.

So overall I'm happy for the multiple uses I have planned.

The rim is stamped Nissan 15x5 1/2JH2X50 and Google search returned this product came from a facelift. So not sure why the tyre is 04
I could be wrong I'm no expert

edit :- My mistake the part for this is 40300ax707 they are readily available as new and plenty of used ones on ebay

https://nissan-europe.epc-data.com/micra/k12e/233-cr12de/axle_and_suspension/433/40300/
I found this site to be useful as this lists all the steel and alloy wheels with trims and caps ect.
Should be helpful for anyone trying to find a specific match
 
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Have recently got an engineers vice to hold small items for brushing and cutting etc..
Still need to mount it to the bench but am going to attempt to make the vice portable so I can use it more often.
Today I was wire brushing and cleaning the wheel bolts.
Got one side done just need to do other side next..
 
Finally got one side done..
Currently looking at SR front suspension.
These are really disappointing to look at
The rear ones seem to look pretty decent tho still..
After a lot of brushing and spraying the bolts. I find this micra is actually quite easy to work on.


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Okay so I have noticed so far that one of the shims on this driver side was missing.
I know they were working effectively before the change over that is still in progress..
When fitting the pads the inner one was a really tight fit with only one shim that I returned to the top and this appears to be the same at other side.
I'm thinking I should get some of the shims asap and put them in.
Maybe brush out the areas more for the shims. Although I did hit them quite well the lower area did not seem flat as the top part.
I can't see it being something I would want to miss out after replacing both the pads and disks.

Also this is the possible problem that has caused me to have to replace the disks maybe...
So am currently searching for shims hopefully they are easy to get hold of and not too expensive if you know if any for cheap please inbox me with info thanks

Pagid Brake Pad Fitting Accessory (Front) £ 8.42 was the ones I picked. From car parts 4 less.

This will also give me a chance to break in the new dremel tool. Maybe tidy up the calipers further and possibly give them a touch of paint.
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Finally got one side done..
Currently looking at SR front suspension.
These are really disappointing to look at
The rear ones seem to look pretty decent tho still..
After a lot of brushing and spraying the bolts. I find this micra is actually quite easy to work on.


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That is some SERIOUS rust on those struts!! Mine , at approaching 100K miles, still have all of their original paint!
 
I'm guessing that they are way past there best though it pass an mot with those. The rear are way better condition and more what one would expect them to look like.
If I can get a pair I would certainly make the effort to install them myself.
Have asked a breaker but he probably doesn't deliver.
Plus I'd like to be able to see what I'm buying as after looking at used ones I can see mine are not the only ones with major rust..
Would they swap straight over the 160SR suspension without modification.?
 
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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I'm guessing that they are way past there best though it pass an mot with those. The rear are way better condition and more what one would expect them to look like.
If I can get a pair I would certainly make the effort to install them myself.
Have asked a breaker but he probably doesn't deliver.
Plus I'd like to be able to see what I'm buying as after looking at used ones I can see mine are not the only ones with major rust..
Would they swap straight over the 160SR suspension without modification.?
I would assume that the 160SR struts, would be a straight swap, ideally complete with the top mounts, only difference is the damper stiffness and the spring length/stiffness (different spring rate). About 20K miles ago I did a complete spring change on mine, fitting a set of 160SR springs all round, bought from a member on here who fitted some Eibach lowering springs to his 160SR.
As part of the 'Sports Suspension' package I believe that the 160SR has a stiffer front ARB as well......I fitted Koni sports rear shocks on mine at the same time as the spring change.
 
Should I grind down the sliders on the carrier bracket or the brake pad lugs.
Or perhaps both
The carrier has nice flat slider at one side and the other side had deep scratches.
I'm thinking that I should file or grind it flat.
Then fit the shims and if that's still too tight fitting I take some material off the brake pad lugs on the area that is tight fitting.
I'm still awaiting the shims and its raining today. So going to hang on till they arrive so I can finish drivers side.

As for the suspension, I may try brushing that off and see if the look okay. Should they not be then I will just leave them But if they are I'm going to attempt to paint the metal part. Once brakes are completed.
As the shocks do still function well. And are good when pressing down on the front of the vehicle.
 
I'm guessing that they are way past there best though it pass an mot with those. The rear are way better condition and more what one would expect them to look like.
If I can get a pair I would certainly make the effort to install them myself.
Have asked a breaker but he probably doesn't deliver.
Plus I'd like to be able to see what I'm buying as after looking at used ones I can see mine are not the only ones with major rust..
Would they swap straight over the 160SR suspension without modification.?
I have set of 4 160SR springs in my garage, in case you or someone else needs them. Just for clarification, springs are located in the Land of the Finns. No idea of postage cost...? :unsure:
 
I was quoted 40 for the front set from a local breaker.
Not sure what he wanted for the rear pair.
Atm my budget won't stretch that far as I'm trying to acquire the steel wheels and then put new tyres on those.
The job of fitting springs may take a while also.
I'm sure the postage will be high to send here to the uk.
In the mean time I must concentrate my efforts on the brake job and make sure they are correct and replaced properly [emoji41

Edit :- Brake pads and discs fully installed.
So as for the shims passenger side had both installed but had to take one out of this side for the pads to fit.
I know this isn't ideal but I do have the part ready in case I have any issues.
And I'm aware that you can grind the lugs off the pads. I did not touch them so far but hit the carrier hard. With wire brush and dremel tool to reveal the flat surface..
The first side has already rust patches even though we had not had any rain.
Not really too bothered about it at least I know they will last the life of the car now.
Just need to run them in and get some tyres picked out next.
Everything went smoothly and if I needed them doing I would certainly install them myself again.
Should have taken a snap just forgot.
Maybe upload some when the tyres are installed.
Seems like a decade has passed for this micra wanting a new set of shoes..
Edit 2 :- Completed drum brake rust removal on passenger side. Have brushed off most of the build up on the wheels each time.
Wasn't really sure where to locate the axle stand. on the passenger side rear so just used the jack stand probably just need to place under the rear axle tho.
Did not bother to take any shots but it came up pretty good like the other side after three passes of the wire wheels for drill.
Those are dekton brand. I'm amazed at how robust and long lasting they are. After all of the jobs so far I have done I'm still using the first small one of a packet if 6. The cup brush also they would easily do the job again if needed.
Edit 3 :- air con and rear screen heater buttons now spring back properly at long last..
Now is time to figure out what else can be done next...
The heater unit I purchased is now a spare. Has the white cooker style knobs and is fs667 I will keep this handy as a backup for the lights ect.
 
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Electric window passengers side.
So here I get this problem.
The window works fine after sticking.
On the run downwards.
I notice that the glass moves back and forth unlike the drivers side.
What could this be causing it to stick and only happen after door has been opened.
My first thought was to get a mechanism as it seems slow but does work fine buttons as well..
Has anyone changed one out on the k12 or can point me to a guide for this.

Also want to try replace the gear shift linkage / gear Selector. Not sure if would make all that much difference though i still think its worth a try.
The rear arch also needs some paint at the very bottom would not take much to tidy this part up.

Just got some high temp black rustoleum paint.
That I plan to paint the rear drums with.
Should be enough to do also the springs at front
Calipers not sure I think I'm going to use the silver just to use it up as the stick ones appear silver from what I have seen of the TRW branded calipers..
The spray can may also be useful for under the arches up front.
Then I'm going to get me the tyres after I'm done with the little jobs behind the wheels.
Will probably take some pics tomorrow after the painting.

For tyres I'm going to get fitted the following.
Either Toyo tyres nano energy 3 (at rear)
Was going to get toyo up front but the 65 side height is questionable as I have no idea if this would work or be allowed by the fitters.

Or cheap ones up front and the energy 3 at rear.
Trying to achieve stock sizes.this seems to cause me big delays though.
As at first thought I would go with the toyo brand up front. That would seem the more sensible option. Although makes the change quite a bit more expensive for little or no gain IMO.
Shame really cause I would love to have them all match or least be same brand and style of tread type.
 
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Painting drums calipers and suspension struts.
It's taken up a few hours to do both sides.
All done.
Definitely worth the effort makes a huge difference not perfect a lot better though..
Next job to make the pads fit nicer waiting on a metal file to help achieve this.
Also need some larger clips or buttons for the front inner arch plastic covers or guards.
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So they call them splash guard clips the ones I could see looked like this on other side.
the last clips I bought I already know they wont hold it in place or I would use those.
Have also had to grab one of these handles. For the jack as there isn't one in with the spare and being left stranded isn't a great idea.
However it just dawned on me that the wheel nut bar might have it inside because the end is pointed plastic :rolleyes:?


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Considering my next item to be improved will probably be the front bumper as I really like the this style.
Would probably have to paint to get the right finish as I'm sure it will be hard to get one without scratches etc.
There are a few different styles of grill on them and they all look great.
I also want to change out the indicator grills to match the lower grill.
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Just put in the caliper brake shims. As they did not seem right first time feels a lot better now.
One question tho. I see a minor drip at the gear box it appears to be the plug.
Not 100% but your views on this are welcome.

Its hard to tell if this is where its coming from. Or if its escaping past the breather tube I installed at the beginning.

Its not making a mess or anything just I can see it on the bottom of the box.
Edit:-Going to try and clean up around the area as best I can tomorrow. To see if I'm able to pinpoint the location closer. As its really hard to identify where its actually coming from.

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I decided to get these tyres and I'm going to run 175.15.60 And 65..
They are royal passenger tyres.
Will be a matching set of 4 and going to get wheels aligned also when they are fitted.

Edit :- was advised to put the same tyres on front and rear so I decided to use the 175 60 R 15 all round.
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Looking at this prasco front bumper its for 2008 to 2010. Not sure if there would be much difference for this fitting. Must be some.
However it does say fits 2003 through to 2010 in the more description.
Isn't many left though.
Its really cheap new only would need to be primed n painted. Also would need some fogs or blank covers.

Giving a thought for painting the bonnet and roof in a racing green.
Then repair any area's with the original silver cause both sides have odd patches of lacquer peel is the only way I can describe what I can see. Just not really sure if the two colours will match up.
Then finish up with the racing green for the wheels as they really need a touch up and might as well make them pop a little.

The front bumper tho my only problem with it is I don't like the grill..
Also I'm think about under sealing the inner front arches or what's left of them might be too late now but it would be great if I can manage to save them from the element's.

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Trying to research these to build rear camera. Mainly for reversing but possibly also to use as a recorder. Using a phone to simplify use a little possibly interested in making the connection wirelessly. (Prefer no wires dangling around)
Plan is to get the parts first then check it works good.
After that I'm going to try set up same thing for my dads motor as I think it would be really useful for him.

Any how this is what I found so far its listed as a video capture device and there are about three versions (What you get may not be obvious version wise)

As far as I know I would need the following a cam,the capture device or similar,an on the go cable (OTG) and a phone holder.
Not that fussy about it being linked to the reverse gear. I'm sure it would be a case of simply pressing on screen to enable the camera.
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Attachments

Trying to research these to build rear camera. Mainly for reversing but possibly also to use as a recorder. Using a phone to simplify use a little possibly interested in making the connection wirelessly. (Prefer no wires dangling around)
Plan is to get the parts first then check it works good.
After that I'm going to try set up same thing for my dads motor as I think it would be really useful for him.

Any how this is what I found so far its listed as a video capture device and there are about three versions (What you get may not be obvious version wise)

As far as I know I would need the following a cam,the capture device or similar,an on the go cable (OTG) and a phone holder.
Not that fussy about it being linked to the reverse gear. I'm sure it would be a case of simply pressing on screen to enable the camera.View attachment 67132
I see what you are trying to do and I bought one of those capture devices with the chip compatible so android picks it up as a universal webcam I think it is just to mess about with and its ..ok. it's a bit clunky with the cables and otg adapter etc. Just an idea (without scouring ebay at this time in morning) could it be better to get a cheap wifi camera and strip it down and mount it in the rear with power from boot socket etc?
 
Yes that's the plan to make either the capture device wireless or the camera wireless this would require tapping into a wire to allow power for the Wi-Fi device at the rear.
It would greatly reduce the wires making it hopefully completely wireless at the screen end.Depending on what device is used. This would require connecting to the camera each time to view.

Edit:- would also be wise to make sure the resolution is decent such as HD probably 1080p at best and with value in mind to keep the price low.

Was hoping not to have to tap the reverse light for this as I don't think it would need a lot of power from a battery for the 6volts needed for the device.
If you wanted a constant signal it would probably be a good idea to run a wire from the front for the unit so it can be plugged in like a usb with the option to add a second device.
This would also make for quick swap for upgrade or removal much more simplified.
As well as making usable for a constant rear view recorder cam. That would be possible from one of the other ports on the capture device without the need for multiple units.
 
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Tyres now fitted feels a lot better. Big thanks to the fitters at tyre and auto care, For the advice and quickly fitting them after my mistake of ordering two tyres of incorrect size..
I'm very happy with how the car drives with these now installed.
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So the thing letting the side down now is the suspension at the front.
I've had the tracking done so don't really wanna mess around adding new suspension.
However I'm looking at this type for future reference.
And also gear shifter have a couple of ideas to try for both. I have absolutely zero knowledge of the suspension or shifting mechanism. Apart from what I have seen other doing online and this is very limited.

Thinking that these would make for a more comfortable drive as the suspension is currently at over 100k miles..

The rear won't be a straight fit for these it would need a new axle with disc brakes in order for them to be installed.
Other plan is to find some that can withstand more weight not because I'm getting fat but cause carry-ability.

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Regarding of dish brake rear axle...
Picture and text from John_D on my blog => -06 Micra 160 SR of Mika The Finn

"I know what you mean Mika about the rear drums. I wonder if it is a practical modification to fit rear discs from one of the sporty Clio 3's that share the same platform?.....I suppose a complete rear axle swap would be the easiest way, which should be straight forward?
This is a Clio 172/182 axle, currently on eBay for £150..."

 
The above are coilovers for an E11.
In the rear as standard we have what I believe what is called a dead axle.
I have been looking at these springs to see if I can get ones with extra coils for strength.(direct fit for micra)
As far as that goes they all seem to look the same for most of the different models. That use the same design.
The rear axle change over is the only solution that I can find to achieve this.
The springs for the E11 look a lot better than I'm seeing atm for both condition and price.
The other thing I could try is to just swap out the front Suspension struts to see if that solves the lame feeling the car makes when driving over small bumps in the road.
I don't feel like I would benefit much from coil-overs or rear disk brakes atm.
I can very much see if I want the micra to have a more responsive feeling the coil-over suspension.
Would be the best choice.
More research is needed for me I'm already pretty sure its all at the front were its lacking.
They feel okay when you press down on the front from outside.
But when you go over a small pot hole its like a slam sound very unpleasant.
It could be other things like bushing not really 100% sure.

Edit:- From what I could see might need new lower ball joint on driver side. looked close to end of life.

Small search brings me to these ridex ones they are just the shock absorber alone. Probably not very good at all.
And ball joints same brand.
Would have to get some spring compressors and a press set to fit them.

This is the guide I was watching and will give it another look he changes out the whole thing and at the end says it feels like a new car.. (outstanding)
Sure is worth a watch if you are experiencing the same issues as me.







Tools required
X means don't have the item yet..


Bearing press X (bearings okay skip)
Ball joint press X (would benefit from renewal)
Grease gun X
Coil compressor X

Parts needed

New Suspension struts X
Ball joints X (needed)
Bearings (optional)

Question does all the top end of the suspension strut have to be renewed.
Will also double check with the Haynes manual for any information I can find out tool requirements in more details.
 
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Just been installing rear view camera. its almost complete waiting on some crimp connectors. To join the device to the reverse light and should be all up and running.
Was very surprised at how easy it was to install in galeforce winds..



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My latest addition is rear view cam that also records front and rear whist driving up to now it looks great.

I was going to mount the camera on the boot end above number plate this seemed to be curved however do for now I have opted for the central top rear brake light cluster cover it does fit well however my idea to hide the wires under the plastic cover did not provide enough clearance for it to clip into place.


Needs to be wired in for reversing to activate and a few wires will have to be tucked away.
I really wanted the screen to be full size but was not sure if it was going to be any good.
They ain't very expensive and its really easy for anyone with basic skills to install.
Waiting on the clips so I can quick connect it up.
Other than that it functions well and was worth while installation.

Next up will be trying to remove heatshield bolts again. This time I'm going to use the rotary tool with some tiny wire brushes. To see if I can free them. Oh yea and I have a handy extension that can get in where the drill won't..
And of course install the heat shield that has been gathering dust over the winter.

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Have been searching for a guide, As to how to diagnose where the sound I hear is coming from, For the front suspension.
For me I have no idea really what I'm looking for exactly. Before watching this video however I was aware of ball joints etc. How they should look when they are worn or new.
Anyways I thought I'd post this up because. Lots of the micra k12 vehicles or at least the suspension struts, I have been viewing that are used look similar to what I have installed atm.
Hope this helps others as well as myself.



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Have recently got the rotary brushes to help get those bolts out of the manifold will certainly be my last attempt at that. Also cable connectors for the reverse cam connection seems that I only need to get power signal.
wire connections.jpg
wire brushes.jpg
 
Just wax and wash the micra today and now I'm focusing in on glass scratches mainly on drivers side window.
Will be gonna try removing them with metal polish or similar tommorow.
Edit :-
Needs to be a high speed drill but rotary tool may work however I see lots of lines down the window some how some grit must have gotten down into the felt backing in the outside of the door.
Could use regular cut compound.
May try this as I don't really want to by or use cerium oxide. This is something that can also be used and is included in kits for removing glass scratches..
 
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Okay so today I found a donor car that had parts I was looking for I have just managed to get the passenger window mechanism and a gear shifter mechanism from an identical model.
im looking forward to having a closer look at the shifter mech to see if there is anyway I can replace the bushes that would be great
have found a guide to install a window mech so that should be straight forward fitting with out the need to search for guides or help.
This is the guide I found showing how to replace the glass its near enough for me to work the rest out..
 
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Trying to figure out the wire for rear view reverse light positive wire.
Have removed the light to see what mines like and it looks like its been taped up after most likely a rear sensor has been replaced maybe.
Any how the sensor looks to be in the middle and I would imagine I could probably tap into that same wire however.
That would be a double tapped wire.
Not sure if you can see it clearly but the grey wire is what I think is connected to the rear sensor.
I'm going to hold back splicing the wire for now and see what your opinions are as this looks to have been taped up.
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Have so far repaired the front window that was sticking this seems to run up and down fine the mechanism was not replaced.
Just seemed to need cleaning at the runners and the outer guides than re-lubricating it did not stick even once so not certain it will work long term but it seems to be working a lot better now.

Took the trim off and cleared that also because I keep getting scratching sounds and the window has scratches in the central part of window.

So now have a possible spare passenger side mech if the original continues to function correctly..
Edit :-
Today I try again same method as usual opening passenger door then closing dropping the window from drivers side it did stick again but not as much.
Clearing the runners has not completely solved the problem this was still worth doing though as it is running smoother I didn't do much with the mechanism though and could have looked at the cables and the small circular plastic cogs or runners that the cables pass through.
Also removing the glass and polishing the outter edges might be a good idea as this was recommended by another forum member.

Going to keep trying till I get it rolling properly

Something I forgot to mention when I removed the door panel I did not take a photo. Noticed a brown wire connector on the with nothing connected to that wire seemed a bit strange to me.
It was about at the height of the door handle.
Was wondering what it could be for as there is only 4 electronic parts in the door the window the window switch the mirror and also the central locking
And also 5th maybe speaker.
If anybody has any idea what this brown two pin wire connector might be let me know thank you.

Day 2 tested same way as 1st n 2nd time.
The window dropped smoothly.
I feel that it sticks on the mirror end as the rubber runners seem tight at the lower end of this area.
Glad its working properly again,isn't a big deal if it has to be changed out in future though now I have the part on hand..
 
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Appears to be nylon ball or bush in the middle.
These seem to crack not sure if you will be able to see.
Took a couple photos.
The other side has the same type of cracking on the nylon or plastic joint if that's what its called unsure..
Any how my idea is to glue this over with a strong adhesive and then sand it back as smooth as possible.
May work or might not be the cause of side to side motion.
So here is the view of inside that I was searching for.
The 4 T20 bolts are removed at this stage so the mechanism is slightly out of alignment.
P_20200314_114155.jpeg
P_20200314_114745.jpeg
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Looking at what's needed to replace the shifter will most likely need to get replacement gasket for the exhaust.
Plan is drop exhaust at the cat if this is a good place to work from.
That way I can inspect the cat condition. At same time as swapping out gear shifter.
I was going to drop at manifold the nearest to engine as this would give me access to the other bolts I need to remove for the heatshield..

I'm also going to replace the drive belt for the power steering and air con along with alternator belt as one of the two have a slight chirping sound when its really cold.
This will enable me to check the tensioner point etc for wear and if any need to be replaced.
Edit :-
Trying to locate a gaskets for the mid section of the exhaust is proving to be difficult.
Also should get a selection of nuts and bolts as these will need to be replaced.
Can get a rear and mid with bolts and gaskets for a reasonable price however
I'm in no rush to replace the whole exhaust.
As I think most of it is still in okay condition.

So since there are not very many sellers for gaskets to fit I think I will opt for a DIY option and make my own that way I will have the template and be able to make a few spares for future use..
 
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Here is a screenshot of the style or shape of gasket I will need to replicate.
After viewing this I can see I may need 13mm m8 bolts?
May already have a few not sure about the length tho.
I will also need to re-seal the gear shifter lower plate..
Seems this gasket is not correct it is for the convertible model.
I really just want to see if there is any difference in feel after the change over.

Edit:- Got the m8 13mm bolts already as I was given more than I ordered last time they may be slightly longer than needed just need to get sum nuts as they did not include them with the extras.

Screenshot_2020-03-26-00-23-05.jpeg


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Changed out the window mechanism today.
Went through all the same opening door etc still sticks same as before..
Took the glass out cleaned it properly with glass cleaner.
Replaced and bolted all back up.
Each time I do the door open outside than drop window same as before drops an inch or so then stick for a second then bangs as it goes past the point where I assume the rubber seals nip against the glass.
So tried for a while to open the area up a bit but not sure exact location might be slightly lower down than the door card.
So now at least have confirmed that it's definitely not the mechanism..

Edit:-
Had another try open door close dropped window not sticking anymore not sure if its fixed after the large amounts of silicone onto the runners and opening them up more seems to have sorted it out for the time being.
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Have been watching these for a while now and I'm really interested to get some hub centric wheel spacers for in the rear.
At first I was looking at the cheaper version but noticed a flaw in that the bolts drive straight through them and I cannot see how that version is a worth while purchase or safe addition to the hub of the vehicle.
Unsure if that is 100% correct what I'm saying but there are some really bad quality ones available
Therefore. Direnza 20mm hub centric spacers.
A possible worthy upgrade to give better road cornering and handling.
I'm going check the space for these before purchase to check clearance from the wheel to the arch and see how much play I have with the 15 inch wheels installed.
I'm sure I have A lot of arch space to fill but will do this to be sure..
These are the ones I will hopefully be installing soon.

Screenshot_2020-03-27-22-04-54_1.jpeg


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I am wondering now if it would make the job. More easy or if its possible to drop exhaust down from the manifold. Keeping the mid section in tact and just drop the lot all in one. So I can get at the bolts for heatsheild.
Then replace the gear stick mechanism.
Please let me know if you have an answer thanks.

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