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Micra Urban Van.

They are valeo ones not glass they do have a good clear look to them.
And look great when they are turned on.
Am wanting the Headlights to be more clear. Glass like have been thinking about getting a pair to refurbish. And clear coat. The rear have that kind of look but they had little done to them just a polish and light buff.

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Today I received after a long wait bolt removal sockets..
Here is what they sent me I was fuming
They let me have #2 #4 and all I needed was #1
If you see them on eBay avoid the user strangeflowers..

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Had a try with the dremel disc cutting tool they don't last long before the shatter.
My drill is rather more powerful being 18v.
I can see the bolt head is still on was just hiding under rust.

Anyhow I just wanted to show some previous work that had been done before I purchased the vehicle.
It has been welded on the driver's side. Under headlight unusual being reverse side from the norm here in UK.
Was told it was the engine mount. Not sure if this has been done well or badly. As I am not experienced in welding. Maybe other more advanced users could comment on this.
The reason its on other side is it has had spent some years in France.
Have now put some larger penny washers in place and the parts are all stainless steal.


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Had a try with those removal sockets yesterday.It gripped onto just one but I could not tap it on further and even if that was possible I could only use a couple centimeters swing action.

Next I'm going to try shocking the bolts. Then tap them loose and remove with vice grips if that fails. I'm going to have to consider getting a mechanic to aid in the bolt removal.

Edit :- May try a right angle drill with some new metal drill bits. Before I decide to finally decide to give in and let a mechanic show me how easy they can be removed.

Just had a practice run on the bolt that was removed. To see how it responds to being filed down with needle files. Was surprised how easily I could make a good flat side to grab onto.
(Possibly may work)
When putting a spanner over this bolt it was between 9.5mm and 10mm.
This is another useful method.

My project is coming to a halt for a while. As I am starting to do my driving lessons. I have just had my first of last week and it is going well.

Will be keeping the vehicle and continuing work even if progress is slow atm.

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My last attempt at bolt removal on the manifold for the heatshield.
So far I have only tried a few things out of what I could possibly do.
Have been looking at right angle drills cordless. They look great and would do the job very well IMO.

So I had to come up with a solution. To bring right angle to my current drill setup without spending too much.

So a decent set of hex drills. I figured would be needed for the right angled hex adapter. That is mainly aimed at screwdriver type work.
The thread is around 6mm roughly.
I'm going to try going in with 2mm ish then work up to the 4mm as my final drill cut.
However this drill set jumps to 4.8mm and that maybe a little over what I want to remove to stay on the safe side of keeping the threads intact on the manifold.
Fingers crossed this will work.
Maybe I'm making this complicated. But I want to be able to work on and remove small parts like that. Without having to dismantle more than is necessary.


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Have put a notch onto one bolt and tried tapping side ways it did nothing at all. Might work with heat. I'm likely to go with that method next. Before surrendering the job to the trusty drill.
The right angled bit is cool but one of them wanders a little from side to side.
Would be best to centralize the first hole made with a drill.
The drill will most certainly be used at top bolt remaning.
The bits are not left-handed but they should work still hex bits are limited to certain types.

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So today I have had a go at drilling and the. 90 degree angle is slightly over what's needed.
I'm unable to get the angle for drilling. The same goes for the flame gun its possible to use in one but that will not complete the job.
Have given a few taps here and there. The bolts are beginning to look rather chewed up.
Pretty much running out of cash/ideas for a simple solution..
Probably going to ask when it goes for the Mot if they can remove them for me.

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Going to move on to the drum brakes next week.
Been wanting to do those for a few months now.
Should be able to show a result at the end with those.
Okay so am having another look at this code reader that is bluetooth didn't work at first when I got it.
Just trying a google search and brings me this page https://obd2-elm327.com/
This image shows compatible vehicles listed with protocol.
So most likely I should be using the iso 9141 protocol.
Will try it again tomorrow and see if it will connect or not.


most code readers just scan through all the protocols, and once it finds one that works it does it automatically

The problem is most likely between the phone and the bluetooth, for example it wants you to enter the same code on each device but one of the 'devices' is the car, maybe the reader comes with an assigned code in the instructions to make the initial link. If you can verify that the code reader works on someone elses car that would be a good way to troubleshoot it also.
Decided to open it up to see if it has a chip inside since its just a brick to me any how as it stands..

What did i get from it.
Well I now have a obd port that I could use to send solar to the battery or maybe other things not really sure yet.
The is a chip inside might be programmable like a bios chip. Don't really know if can get versions to try on them .
The connector will certainly come in handy tho

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What pins would I need to solder to in order to trickle charge the battery.
Would be interesting to find out what pins would be used for obvious reasons.
The units or cables to attach seem to have an inline fuse also.
I'm searching for an exploded diagram for a solar to obd connector.

Maybe a cigar lighter port connection would be more the way to go but I doubt that the power will be active when the car is parked?

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