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Woke up this morning in a cleansing mood washed the car waxed and polished loved the sunshine... then couldn't resist going for a drive spotted all sorts on my travels old new and some in between I love the fact that the sun arrives and people get there summers toys out... with no destination in mind I set off and ended up through the coastal roads really should of taken some pictures. Ended up in cromer at Halfords and stocked up on cleaning products ready for JAE 2014 :D
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Awesome day :)
 
MicraPRO said:
Woke up this morning in a cleansing mood washed the car waxed and polished loved the sunshine... then couldn't resist going for a drive spotted all sorts on my travels old new and some in between I love the fact that the sun arrives and people get there summers toys out... with no destination in mind I set off and ended up through the coastal roads really should of taken some pictures. Ended up in cromer at Halfords and stocked up on cleaning products ready for JAE 2014 :D
View attachment 28949
Awesome day :)
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I have this exact kit, its awesome! Cars looks sweet btw
 
MicraPRO said:
The kit is old so much has been replaced with products I prefere but I wouldnt be without it :)
Thanks buddy!
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Yep mine too!, i bought a box of replacements. Also try Autoglym HD wax, really good on the paint would look awesome on yours. Protects against rain too. Cost me £45 but i think itd last me my whole life.

If not already you could check out my paint rejuvination thread, if you wanted to spice up your paint
 
SuluR said:
Yep mine too!, i bought a box of replacements. Also try Autoglym HD wax, really good on the paint would look awesome on yours. Protects against rain too. Cost me £45 but i think itd last me my whole life.

If not already you could check out my paint rejuvination thread, if you wanted to spice up your paint
Click to expand...
I got there specialist metalic polish deep shine for dark colours or something... fast glass, glass polish.
Instant show shine aqua wax, tyre shiny for my new tr1s being fitted tuesday and a rapid detailer today...
That wax does look good ;) expensive tho!
Could be worth an investment.
Ive checked it out but mines really far past rejuvenation needs a repray tbh its the only way the scratchs will ever be fully sorted.
Yours look great after! :)
Shame shes not staying!
 
MicraPRO said:
I got there specialist metalic polish deep shine for dark colours or something... fast glass, glass polish.
Instant show shine aqua wax, tyre shiny for my new tr1s being fitted tuesday and a rapid detailer today...
That wax does look good ;) expensive tho!
Could be worth an investment.
Ive checked it out but mines really far past rejuvenation needs a repray tbh its the only way the scratchs will ever be fully sorted.
Yours look great after! :)
Shame shes not staying!
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On my old car I had bad paint work, I got some matching spray cans and painted and laqured it, then sanded it with 2000 grit and g3! and it looked just like new. if your feeling brave...

Well Andy_S has her for now, but im sure his plans mean it wont be here for long. :(
 
SuluR said:
On my old car I had bad paint work, I got some matching spray cans and painted and laqured it, then sanded it with 2000 grit and g3! and it looked just like new. if your feeling brave...

Well Andy_S has her for now, but im sure his plans mean it wont be here for long. :(
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Hmm could look into doing this then...
You think he will break it?
 
MicraPRO said:
This might just be me worrying about nothing but ever since my breakdown at jae ive always worried my car is running to hot... so for if anything a little piece of mind does this gauge look normal to everyone, I mean does it sit when everyone elses does?
View attachment 28596
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tom, first test if both your temp sensors are actually working within spec.
then read what the engine temp is (either convert multimeter readings into deg or use a consult diagnostic reader)
if the sensors say its overheating, fix the cause.
if the engine is actually running at 82c but the gauge is over 1/2 way, the needle can be corrected.

the needle rests freely on the shaft but the shaft angle range is actually limited. so if the needle is like pointing 1deg too high, nudge the needle down with ur finger till it hits the bottom stopper and then nudge a further 1deg to shift the needle position relative to the shaft.
 
MicraPRO said:
Cant really update this much as I forgot to take pictures...
Lots of mending things that have happened over winter.
Re fitted front splitter.
Cut front bumper mount so the fog sits correctly.
Re painted nodspeed strut brace.
Painted slam panel.
Re painted my horns.
Re routed induction kit no longer behind headlight its now round the left of the engine bay and cable tied to the front grill ram air style noticed loads more torque top end :)
Painted dash cluster pod black and jdm dash pod black again.
Cleaned up the exhaust manifold.
Managed to separate the micra rear dust covers from the old micra shocks ready to go on to the modified corsa shocks to hopefully stop this knocking I still have...
Gave her a wash and polish :) all in all a nice 2 days work :)
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read these articles bout ram-air

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=110824
http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=1023

when I tried a gutter pipe CAI with the janspeed setup at rockingham speedway, I think it improved high end torque a tiny bit.
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-7#post-412661

27069208.jpg
 
pollyp said:
tom, first test if both your temp sensors are actually working within spec.
then read what the engine temp is (either convert multimeter readings into deg or use a consult diagnostic reader)
if the sensors say its overheating, fix the cause.
if the engine is actually running at 82c but the gauge is over 1/2 way, the needle can be corrected.

the needle rests freely on the shaft but the shaft angle range is actually limited. so if the needle is like pointing 1deg too high, nudge the needle down with ur finger till it hits the bottom stopper and then nudge a further 1deg to shift the needle position relative to the shaft.
Click to expand...
It seemed fine today paul I think it was a loose plug because I had a check of the connections and think maybe during the head rebuild they were knocked its sitting just right now but myself and clodo have looked into getting the nissan data scan system so will fully check the whole system then... shes running great and no loss of coolant or the hot smell so I think it was just the connector.
 
MicraPRO said:
It seemed fine today paul I think it was a loose plug because I had a check of the connections and think maybe during the head rebuild they were knocked its sitting just right now but myself and clodo have looked into getting the nissan data scan system so will fully check the whole system then... shes running great and no loss of coolant or the hot smell so I think it was just the connector.
Click to expand...

thats good news
 
MicraPRO said:
I knew they could fit inside the disks my college course did teach me something after all haha. I just dont know how id make it all fit to the rear hub without effecting the offset.
I might just go for a matt humphries rear disk conversion haha more expensive but dont blow my mind with science...
Click to expand...

rear discs imo are no better than drums cos:
most of the braking bias are done towards the front,
rear discs don't brake as hard as drums cos drums are self-energising (shoes wedge themselves in harder)
rear calipers are REALLY prone to seizing.
rear caliper handbrakes are also weak and prone to seizing.

so the only benefit for rear discs I can think of are looks and better resistance from fading IF ur racing
 
pollyp said:
rear discs imo are no better than drums cos:
most of the braking bias are done towards the front,
rear discs don't brake as hard as drums cos drums are self-energising (shoes wedge themselves in harder)
rear calipers are REALLY prone to seizing.
rear caliper handbrakes are also weak and prone to seizing.

so the only benefit for rear discs I can think of are looks and better resistance from fading IF ur racing
Click to expand...
Cleared that up for me to :) thanks paul your advice as always is greatly received!
Reminds me I must get around to fitting these recon driveshafts I bought from you! Just need to get new seals for the gearbox just incase...
 
MicraPRO said:
I guess my first question is what turbo am I looking for? Can anyone explain what and why a certain turbo would work best? T2 T4 etc as i'm clueless...
Click to expand...

turbo conversions are a hugely complicated project to get right due to several critical decisions that has to be carefully planned maticulously.

get it right and it'll be powerful, reliable, responsive, economical and cost effective.
the risk of get it very wrong could be catastrophic mechanically and financially.

browse through me blog for how long n hard n expensive it was to get there.
look at this for a rough advice I wrote.
http://micra.org.uk/threads/thinking-of-turboing-my-1-0-gx-what-do-i-need.59270/#post-657455
 
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pollyp said:
turbo conversions are a hugely complicated project to get right due to several critical decisions that has to be carefully planned maticulously.

get it right and it'll be powerful, reliable, responsive, economical and cost effective.
the risk of get it very wrong could be catastrophic mechanically and financially.

browse through me blog for how long n hard n expensive it was to get there.
look at this for a rough advice I wrote.
http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-6#post-402970
Click to expand...
This is why im not rushing into it Paul ive got lots to learn and am willing to learn...
I wont be stripping the car out at all I just want something fun but as frank said its so easy to just add more boost.
That link posted takes me to the page about your painted toyos... couldnt see anything about your review on turbo builds?
 
MicraPRO said:
I guess having never driven a turbo car id not notice lag as much... cooler is better haha.
Click to expand...

one of the important decision factors is choosing a turbo with the right compressor graph that'll work efficiently with the engines capacity upto the target outcome.

if the turbos working range and boost threshold point is too high, it will respond snuggish as lag.
if the target gasflow outcome of the engine is beyond the turbos range, it'll over-rev and has to work harder at it's least efficient state to generate the requested boost level but at the cost of heating up the air considerably.

another factor to consider is keeping that compressed air as cool as possible till it enters the cylinder by:
turbo always working within it's efficient range,
large intercooler,
insulated induction pipes,
air filter intake located away from hot areas,
disconnected TB coolant pipes to keep it cool,
teflon inlet manifold spacer to keep inlet stone cold.
 
MicraPRO said:
This is why im not rushing into it Paul ive got lots to learn and am willing to learn...
I wont be stripping the car out at all I just want something fun but as frank said its so easy to just add more boost.
That link posted takes me to the page about your painted toyos... couldnt see anything about your review on turbo builds?
Click to expand...

ah crap, wrong link...
corrected link
 
MicraPRO said:
Ok the turbo list...
Correct me if im wrong :)
•Turbo
•Manifold
•Custom dump pipe.
•Turbo back exhaust.
•Oil feed to turbo lines
•Oil return to sump
•Modified sump
•GA16 throttle body
•GA16/SR20 injectors
•Upgraded fuel pump.
•Blow off valve.
•Boost gauge.
•Wideband O2 sensor.
•Front mount Intercooler
•Intake? Pod/Airbox...
•Relevant piping...stainless steel?
•Silicon hose for connections that cant be steel.
•Jubliee rings to secure.
•Non NATS ecu.
•Tune and dyno run.
Anything else?
Click to expand...

tune and dyno, does that include fitting a fully programmable management such as Nistune? highly recommend Ed
all the planning n build prepping the car mechanicals correctly is one thing but carefully tuning the ECU properly is the most important step that determines the success rate and long term fate of the turbo setup.
 
MicraPRO said:
Decided that 2000+ miles is plenty enough for the bedding in of the rebuilt head... so with the tank full and a finish at work for 4am I took the back twisty roads home for some spirited driving :D which quickly turned into hooning the whole journey :cool:
VW Golf gti mk4...
Fiat Punto Arbarth...
Mercedes Sprinter...
Were my victims along the journey I love these little cars through the corners!!
Also feel sorry for the person(s) I woke dropping my car from 50mph into 3rd and setting there car alarms off (oops)
Going to bed feeling happy :)

On the mod/maintenance front has anyone used waxoil? Is it any good?
Dont really want to buy a shed load and find its rubbish.
Click to expand...

here's my complete rebuilt engine break-in

http://micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-83#post-600310
 
pollyp said:
tune and dyno, does that include fitting a fully programmable management such as Nistune? highly recommend Ed
all the planning n build prepping the car mechanicals correctly is one thing but carefully tuning the ECU properly is the most important step that determines the success rate and long term fate of the turbo setup.
Click to expand...
Yes it will be nistune or whatever I have to do to make her work safely with no det...
I have got NATS will this be a problem for nistune?
Talking to Ed is something I will be doing closer the time I dont know the guy but trust him just on word of mouth :)
 
SirChris said:
But still. Compression of hg well change bolt torque

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
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if the head and block are completely flat, clean, dry, using genuine high quality HG and the head bolts are completely clean and well lubricated, you only need to torque it up properly once.
 
MicraPRO said:
Because you need 2 gaskets yes?
And because I ideally want to use a victor raines hg.
Click to expand...

no its not essential. the one single genuine HG on a stock engine will do fine. my 157bhp setup was with a stock engine and HG. it's all about careful build quality and experienced ECU tuning.

twice the HG, twice the weak spots and point of failure imo.
 
pollyp said:
no its not essential. the one single genuine HG on a stock engine will do fine. my 157bhp setup was with a stock engine and HG. it's all about careful build quality and experienced ECU tuning.

twice the HG, twice the weak spots and point of failure imo.
Click to expand...
Understood :)
 
pollyp said:
if the head and block are completely flat, clean, dry, using genuine high quality HG and the head bolts are completely clean and well lubricated, you only need to torque it up properly once.
Click to expand...
Both were skimmed flat (head and block)... genuine nissan gasket used.
New head bolts used with head bolt holes tapped and cleaned.
So should be fine :)
 
MicraPRO said:
Yes it will be nistune or whatever I have to do to make her work safely with no det...
I have got NATS will this be a problem for nistune?
Talking to Ed is something I will be doing closer the time I dont know the guy but trust him just on word of mouth :)
Click to expand...

mine was one of the first k11 testbed with NATS that Ed worked Nistune on (was a pita back then to get working) but it was figured out and now he knows how to.
Ed is a very good, knowledgable, experienced and talented person. check his Fusion Motorsport website out
 
pollyp said:
mine was one of the first k11 testbed with NATS that Ed worked Nistune on (was a pita back then to get working) but it was figured out and now he knows how to.
Ed is a very good, knowledgable, experienced and talented person. check his Fusion Motorsport website out
Click to expand...
Ill have a look at his site mate and see if I can give him a call :)
 
Went for a drive with clodo and mildred to double our fuel costs... not!
Time for chloe to get this flippin back box sorted properly and sort the (huge) exhaust leak.
On the way we found a photo spot :) enjoy.
1395081321035.jpg

1395081343540.jpg
1395081365308.jpg

1395081392295.jpg

1395081409537.jpg

Photos taken using a Samsung Galaxy S4.
 
MicraPRO said:
Went for a drive with clodo and mildred to double our fuel costs... not!
Time for chloe to get this flippin back box sorted properly and sort the (huge) exhaust leak.
On the way we found a photo spot :) enjoy.
View attachment 28961
View attachment 28962View attachment 28963
View attachment 28964
View attachment 28965
Photos taken using a Samsung Galaxy S4.
Click to expand...


What have I told you about hanging around near playgrounds??





Sent from the Magpie's magical nest using Tapatalk
 
pollyp said:
rear discs imo are no better than drums cos:
most of the braking bias are done towards the front,
rear discs don't brake as hard as drums cos drums are self-energising (shoes wedge themselves in harder)
rear calipers are REALLY prone to seizing.
rear caliper handbrakes are also weak and prone to seizing.

so the only benefit for rear discs I can think of are looks and better resistance from fading IF ur racing
Click to expand...
bias to the front, unless you are hardcore and run it near 50/50

DO NOT GO BLOODY DISK BRAKES...pain in the arse... does look good though lol.
 

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