Suspension system.

When upgrading the suspension with the k12 what other types of vehicles will match and fit the same as.
I was told that I could Corolla
Toyota E11.
Also these seem to be similar
Renault Clio (unsure what model/year)
Renault Megan (model not sure also)

And of course the
Micra k12 SR120.

I'm interested in any info I can find out about this from more experienced users.
My aims are to get the best set up possible without over spending.
And also to be sure the parts will fit.
Thanks in advance to those who reply to my question.
So I'm searching for a similar problem that I'm experiencing with this area and have just found this now.
Sounds like a very similar problem to mine.


If this thread is accurate it may just be worn bolts that are making the sound I hear over pot holes.
Nice to know if this is the actual problem as I cannot see any thing obviously at fault with the shocks although I will still make the effort to replace all parts that appear worn including the struts and springs.

I have been looking into the mk2 Renault Clio struts as they can be cheaper.
Not sure if these would fit and don't want to just get inferior cheap parts or something that does not fit properly.

Edit :- I have just figured out what I should get and had the right idea in the first place for what I actually may need.
 
Last edited:
So I have decided after this read. That it would be best to replace the items in the photo shown. Then if the problem continues to happen after these items are changed I will then replace the struts and shocks.

So drop links and lower arms both sides.
Was also thinking about changing the anti roll bar bushes. Probably should do them while these parts are being replaced.
Screenshot_2020-02-23-22-06-51_1.jpeg


Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Just stumbled across this tool for setting camber castor.
My search was for diy wheel alignment. for when I start to replaces parts.
So just thought I'd show this as I have not seen one before and it looks useful maybe?

My idea for this would be to probably take readings. From what they are set to now as I just had the wheels alignment done. Then this would at least give me a good indication of where it should be after replacing the lower arms.

Second option try to build a laser level hanger that would sit on the wheel.
Not really sure if it would work well but possibly have most of the items to build one or two.

Screenshot_2020-03-03-08-13-01_1.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Okay so I'm half way to getting it right I think the bar needs to span across from each side of tyre.(laser will lay on the two ends)
Can't find the laser level it must be stored someplace tho.
Has taken a while to get it to bolt up. As I'm re using old metal chairs. Including the bolts that are M7 hex. they are different size nuts. So I had to re make a few to get the shape I would like.
It just needs cutting down at the rear where it fits onto the tyre.
Am also not sure I like how it will not center but have got lots of these metal bars and legs to practice and get it in the center bore or near enough to the center of wheel on both horizontal and vertical axis.
Its not bad for the first test run anyhow.
So far its cost nothing and apart from the laser level I intend to keep cost down to zero..

Thinking I need to add stand offs that are soft and adjustable to achieve a level surface when placed onto the front of wheel.
Sorry that its layed down I can't hold the wheel and take photo till after I have cut the excess material off the hanger.

If you have made one of these before or can see anything I'm missing so far please feel free to comment.
P_20200303_133749.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Your aim is to sort everything to get rid of annoying sounds from the front I will only say that I suffered the same problems, so replaced front shocks/springs top bearings torsion bars and lower wishbones all with german manufactured parts.( Dont use chinese parts on a jap car its a sin!!)by replacing all the parts and front brakes bearings and discs I eventually solved the problems, but had to visit kwik fit to have the steering digitally tracked (as I also replaced the inner and out track ends) another groaning sound when steering. I have compile a list of parts from nissan and also Renault which you can search for parts on e-bay with. some of dacia parts also fit!!
 
Thinking about changing them out soon. Not wanting to lower the height or change things that much. Just to freshen the front up abit and give some extra life to the vehicle

Please understand i'm concentrating on the front end. As I Do not think the rear is in need of renewal. Would also consider replacement for next year Mot

So here i am trying to add the items i will need and if any really important items are missing please let me know thank you

Shocks or struts :-
For Nissan Micra MK 3 2003 - 2010 Shock Absorber Front Axle Right & Left QH (Quinton Hazell seem to have been made in china these days they are attractive in price but if they only last short life im going to avoid and research something better)
Used to be a quality brand decades ago but are now a Chinese manufactured lucky dip
This explains why they are only 69 pounds for the pair. also 15% discount available with these.
(Will keep looking for alts)
Considering to get Sachs

Coil Springs :-
Front Coil Springs x 2 to fit Nissan Micra K12 2003 Onwards PAIR 1.2
Continental Direct CD Coil Springs brand
Sounds like a crappy cheap spring set
21 pound for the pair
(Will keep looking for alts)
Sachs being seperate will be 60 ish plus

Top hats or Top mounts with bearings

FOR RENAULT CLIO MK3 FRONT SUSPENSION STRUT TOP MOUNTS & BEARING MOUNT PAIR

Not really sure if this would be a good idea they are not including bolts (Looks Same and Oe)
(Will keep looking for alts)
36 for the pair is good value

Anti roll bars drop links
PAIR OF FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR STABILISER DROP LINKS FOR NISSAN MICRA K12 2003-2010
13 pound
These look to be decent quality

WishBone Arms
FOR NISSAN MICRA K 12 03-- TWO FRONT WISHBONE SUSPENSION ARMS LEFT&RIGHT
35 might be rubbish unsure?
This would total 165 pound total and if done by me would save a lot in garage costs
If it was Possible to do the lowering for an affordable price such as this then that could be an option with some quality parts.
This method is the cheapest But what if anything am i missing..
 
Regarding the wish bones, I fitted German made ones for £37 and they are great quality, I will pass on the info for you, Meyle front shocks are good quality and discounted to £34 each! with the Renault top bearings, yes they come with the bolts with the set for both sides coming in at around £36 for two, my parts list will help narrow down a lot of parts from retailers willing to barter on price at the mo.

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Nissan-Micra-K12-2002-2011-Front-Lower-Control-Suspension-Wishbone-Arm-Pair/332883743113?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649:unsure:
 
with the drop down links, upgrade to 12mm from 10mm, they are more robust and don't flex under load like the weedy ten mm ones, you will have to open the holes on the shock absorbers and cross beam to accept the larger diameter thread but it is worth it;)
 
Thank you for the quick response .
This could save me a lot more searching.
As I have already been viewing these items for such along time, Not knowing exactly what's needed.(Basic idea)
The other thing I must include would be coil press, ball joint removal tool.
I'm thinking that I have most of the tools that I'm going to need at hand.

Oh yeah I'm waiting on the exhaust spring set I'm going to use heat to remove those old bolts and hopefully finish that job off properly.
Within good time for its next test in September.
Have had a short break. Need to be getting back at the rest of the items waiting to be fitted.


Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Will be best if I renew the springs at same time.
Mainly tho the struts are tired looking and were very crusty on inspection.
As I remember its best to change both at same time because even if they look okay the springs will have done the same amount of work as the struts.
Plus it's good measure because they are likely to be weak compared with a fresh set.

It does okay when pushing down on the front of the car. They feel fine here it does not bounce up and down at all. But that is all I have to go on to say they are good. Everything else is telling me to replace.


Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Last edited:
You will find and the Micra is susceptible to slight tolerance differences in steering. springs, shocks and top bearings and lower suspension ideally should be replaced all at once so best to wait till you get all you are able to afford.:unsure:
 
This is the struts that I'm considering going for.
They seem to look more quality product than the sheep chit on eBay..

Really though is there much difference.
My only experience with shocks are on mountain bikes, the first set was really stiff not much movement at all and the bike was probably better without them.
Later I upgrade that bike to the one I have now and that has a decent set of forks at the front that are soft and cushion most of the bumps in the road.
They are kinda like rockshox for mountain bikes.
Anyways with vehicle suspension I would imagine to same will be true that the budget ones will leave for a poor ride quality and the higher ends being for a smoother ride but maybe can be stiffer in some installs such as when lowered etc like in sports application.

For me this would lead me to something that is soft but not over bouncy with a good cornering ability.
It would have to be better and not disappointingly exactly the same as it is now.

So if I'm going to get something decent its going to be the Monroe struts. Front and rear. Since I got the car this was one of the brands that looked appealing to me. Though a little more expensive they might offer a more comfortable ride, With the option of me being able to get the height down slightly with the right spring combo.
Does anyone know of a photo of the front struts an actual one as this shot is of the rear and all I'm finding in my searches so far.
Screenshot_2020-08-13-01-00-55_1.jpg


Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Rule of thumb, don't buy anything that you cannot see the item you may be purchasing! rear shocks are important but not as critical as front dampers, With a lot of equipment there is two points to consider 1) is it the brand name, or 2) is this also the manufacturer of these parts. Lots of time they are not so do your research. I recommend a Manufacturer part for the rear and have found you a reasonable deal of price versus quality:
/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Micra-K12-03-10-Pair-TRW-Rear-Gas-Shock-Absorbers-NOS/164181679121?hash=item2639fd9c11:g:pGQAAOSwX2xerDxH
;)
 
Rule of thumb, don't buy anything that you cannot see the item you may be purchasing! rear shocks are important but not as critical as front dampers, With a lot of equipment there is two points to consider 1) is it the brand name, or 2) is this also the manufacturer of these parts. Lots of time they are not so do your research. I recommend a Manufacturer part for the rear and have found you a reasonable deal of price versus quality:
/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Micra-K12-03-10-Pair-TRW-Rear-Gas-Shock-Absorbers-NOS/164181679121?hash=item2639fd9c11:g:pGQAAOSwX2xerDxH
;)

Mach1 those shocks in the link seem like a good deal at half the new price, I got my eye on those. I know KYB Suspension are an OEM for some models of K12, I also know TRW are good quality too. How do you tell if the brand is also the manufacturer to just a rebadge?

It'd be easy to buy shocks from a company and rebadge them as your own, you only need have branding on the box itself and a website to sell the brand.

The term OEM quality is often misused, misquoted and generally abused by unscrupulous sellers aiming at folk who prefer to buy original parts.
 
bought these myself, from this supplier they are the real deal no worries with them. It has been a problem with other parts and a lot of cross checking the parts with the manufacturer is needed sometime as there are some cheap parts masquerading as quality products out there, I have lots of years dealing with Engineering parts so I don't get hoodwinked with "Branded names" some are original, some are not, that the good thing with this forum it is here to guide and help others.;)
 
From what I searched it said the Monroe is better than most of the other brand's.
Sometimes though its just a sales tactic.
We could say they are way better because the car now drives/rides much smoother after installing them.
I think I can see a sticker branding name and there are slight difference to the strut tubes between each of the 4 or 5 or more brands I've viewed so far.
I'm going to say that from what I can see and have researched so far.
That my best bet is a mid ranged product
Because they should be as good if not better than the oe originals.
And anything above this range might be overkill on a 15 years old micra.

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Its all about finding the right balance of quality Vs price, the rear shocks need to be dependable over the years, so choose is the name of the game, I personally have found the TRW to be a good performer and they have been stressed to the limit at times.(y)
 
Last edited:
I was just doing some last search and came across the names Sachs and Mapco
Both German branded front suspension shocks.
The mapco being low in price both being quality brand names.

Edit:- Only gripe now would be after looking at reviews. For mister-auto a few buyers recommending to steer clear. This is a bit off putting since their are many reviews.
Saying they are great company to purchase from..

With regards to rear do we need to pick something that will match up well with front as in similar types matching them with same type or can this be any type without effecting drive quality?


Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
I've heard of Sachs, not heard of Mapco.

Mister Auto, Autodoc and all those other Germany based sellers are great value but god it takes ages to first get the parts from them and secondly returns are a fire trucking nightmare, I returned the Eibach Pro Kit springs to Autodoc and it's taking a dreadfully long time for them to process them.

My personal policy is to have all four corners the same brand, type and ideally all the same age, I can't have new shocks different brand on the front and 15 year old ones on the rear, that would drive me crazy.
 
All good quality products, I have Sachs front Dampers on mine and are dependable, ( they also make great performance engines)
Mapco have been around since the 1970's first used them on my Magnum years ago. I changed my inner and outer track rod ends with this company on the Micra, super quality and great prices, here is there E-bay outlet (professional service from start to finish):
www.ebay.co.uk/usr/mapco-uk?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754:unsure:
 
Ah great, a diesel 3 door Sport or ideally a Tekna in white would be my ideal Micra, I have a 1.4 petrol Sport, still love it.

Had a 3 door Tekna diesel in blue before, fantastic K9K engine, it was great as is, had it remapped though for even more economy and torque, the difference was impressive and that was just a stage 1 remap, no adverse mechanical side effects, drove all over Europe in it, superb car for motorway cruising and town driving alike, best of all £30 a year road tax, amazing cars!
 
mine is £126 road tax! but yes amazing engines, wondered how they worked that one into the micra but glad they did, Nissan and Renault still use these engines in lots if their cars, commercial vehicles, and also the Dacia range. this is why I was considering the 6 speed box as got to travel to Spain when this virus lets me and you will know the roads are long and hot so want her it tip top condition for the crossing to Bilbao, and beyond.;)
 
well lots of drawings to study first, I was hoping someone may have tried this before, the gearbox on the Clio diesel is same engine and mating configuration, where I think the problem may lie is the length of gearbox in relation to the chassis and also the drive shaft alignment, once these are checked against the original it could be a simple swap with gear linkages to adapt.:unsure:
 
The K12 Micra and Mk2 and Mk3 Clio share the same floorpan/platform so maybe the length of gearbox in relation to the chassis isn't such a big issue
 
It will give me something to do over dreary winter, I am in middle of refurbishing my pet Ignis at mo, been with me for 18 years and nearly finished another one! they are my workhorses. also sorting a Honda 125 for a friend so its all go here!o_O
 
I quite enjoy winter, watching all the clowns and fools going to fast smashing up their cars hopefully avoiding injuring anyone but themselves, not so dreary here in Essex ha ha
 
That is true, thats why I am considering some 14" wheels with good winter tyres and a dash cam to help me avoid the Clowns.🤡
 
Have chosen the TRW TWIN for front and gotten most of the items I think I'm going to need in order to swap them out
Only thing that I've missed is the top mounts so far probably an important part.
Will gather the rear parts next as I intend to match with the front.
Also the wishbones Mach1 suggested.
Anti roll bars along with springs and a spring compressor An the pair of top mounts to complete the front.
 
When you compress the springs cut up some old garden hose, split down the middle and place over the springs underneath the claws of the compressors, this will help you in NOT damaging the weather coating of the springs and exposing the steel to oxidation! :unsure:
 
Haha I just threw a bunch in the bin today.
Been hanging on to that then thought nothing of it.
Will have to get it back my hose is already in two parts it's a shame to shorten any more as that must reach to almost the road side for power washing.

Good tip. Btw I was wondering why some springs have a short length of clear tube on them.
When I saw this I was thinking should I wrap the spring in something that is colourful such as tubing.
Wonder if that has been done before or if its a bad idea cause might hold moisture?

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Last edited:
Yes it will hold the moisture and under full compression you will lose spring travel, just add up the thickness of the tube wall and times that by the cross section of the spring to arrive at the amount of travel you could lose, lets say it 3mm thick and you have 5 coils on the spring, you could lose 3x5 = 15mm of travel loss in the spring! :unsure:
 
Have just got the rear shocks you had show first. Managed to get a discount on both the front and rear pairs.
It was good value and could have been a lot more for brand new unopened box products.
Managed to get the front set for 75 making a big saving over 120 the pair.
Only down side is might have scratches and open box.
And the rears for 35.
Fingers crossed that they are good quality pairs.

Will wait and see for the rear springs.
Because I have clues showing me that one or the other, May have been replaced in the past. When or what I'm not sure yet but the springs and dampers do look pretty clean in the rear on both sides.

The only thing I have to say this is a broken clip on the trim. At the rear top that would be removed when changing out the dampers.
I noticed this after watching an auto doc how to replace the rear dampers.
Even if they are good I want to match front to rear with same type.

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Last edited:
Glad that you managed a good saving, I have been doing same for years and it still amazes me that some companies still think they can charge top dollar for car parts, when a little searching can save such a lot. With the video on changing the rear shock, I would advice loosing of the bottom anchor bolt, but leave it hand tight then remove top bolt all the way then go under the car hold the old shock and then remove the lower bolt, this way you keep control of the shock rather than leaving it to drop out uncontrolled when you take out the top bolt!:unsure:
 
Yes its also better to watch a real world persons video. To see how they manage without the lift etc. Because this is the point of view or angle that we will have to use. Rather that the fancy lift technology.

MaxAttack seems to give good advice on his how to for the micra.


Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
with the drop down links, upgrade to 12mm from 10mm, they are more robust and don't flex under load like the weedy ten mm ones, you will have to open the holes on the shock absorbers and cross beam to accept the larger diameter thread but it is worth it;)
After looking at this and I already had a set ready picked I'm thinking I got the 10mm ones.
Not sure I've seen 12mm ones and I do not think you shown a link.
Might return them if they not upto the job.

Going to research these more I think if its better using 12mm ones..

PAIR OF FRONT ANTI ROLL BAR STABILISER DROP LINKS FOR NISSAN MICRA K12 2003-2010
Listed as
Part no LB023

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
The 10 mm are up to the job when it was designed, but a Long history of MOT failures on these drop links fitted to the Micra proves they are not up to the job long term, they upgraded the Micra c+c and later Nissan models to sort this out.🥴
 
That's great I will see if I can return those for others should they be 10mm.
Or just run them till I get the other set.
When your saying you need to drill the shock that would also mean I'd need to protect that area from corrosion.
Does the other end need to be drilled.
I'm okay with drilling them but would be unsure where exactly its needed.
I do get the idea tho just a bit unsure.

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Just looked now at what's on they appear to be 10mm and have been fine they do look rusted kinda.
Has not been a problem before on any of the MOT sheets I have for the car.
I do see they are almost ready for renewal tho. Since they probably won't function as good as new ones

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
just leave them at 10 mm for now you seem to have a lot to do besides, I upgraded mine because of the heavier Diesel engine and it had numerous failures on the previous MOT's, Its the knuckle that wears, you would need to open up the hole in the suspension leg up to 12.1 mm which is easy if you are putting new ones on and can be done on a bench before fitting, however the cross member is made of tough spring steel and you would need a high quality drill bit and reamer, I personally would leave this for now.😶
 
That sounds like something I'm going to miss out on.
Just like I would have much preferred a dci engine.
Today tho I got my front struts and the bottom control arms.
Their is a tiny scratch on one strut under the spring area easy to touch up.
The look really good.
TRW They do look great (made in France)
Slightly disappointment with that but its European and they are gonna look way more tidy than what I'm removing soon.

The bottom arm are excellent.
Those have been a good find I'm really pleased so far.

Do have experience in drilling and I know it can be easy and or a real challenge with different types of metal/materials
A good drill bit works wonders and from what I've used so far I am most happy with the workzone ones that included in my tap n die set.
They are really incredible quality and drill anything so far that I've tested.
Also as far as I'm aware have not dulled yet.


Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Last edited:
It's easy for me with years of experience in Engineering, but I know it can be daunting at first, best to build your experience up in stages. a quick note is that running a drill bit at excessive speeds bill burn the end out with the wrong material. My struts were resprayed in grey to give them better rust protection, but that personal choices. I also put some bottom rubber cushion at bottom of springs as the original one were a joke and perished anyway.:)
 
Top