Suspension system.

This side looks the same they don't look bad to me maybe they a different brand.
In the other photo it look like someone changed them and had a chew using caveman tools..
Can those be removed and installed with a gear puller? They are less expensive than using a bearing removal tool.
I can see a long threaded bar working here with a couple sockets maybe but I'm sure it will be a job and a half making that move.

What would be best to replace got two options here?

Generic or power flex.

Tool to remove them

Gear puller.jpg
Found some more TRW items that I might get for the inner and outer tie rod ends.
Not sure yet if I want to swap them out but would be a handy to have them as backups for another upgrade.
Got the rear suspension bushes.
They don't seem to be very round.
Plastic sleeve not metal also.
Not sure if that's bad they look squashed?
And yes they are generic since the parts I'm putting on are probably worth more than the car at this point 😬
Something tells me that they are alot bigger, than what I thought so the gear puller won't work for them. Need to be double the size.
Could drill em out, gonna need a gigantic socket tho around 70mm for installing.
My set don't go that high and the 30mm way to small. Will check what I have tomorrow.
Might have to just go with that method of bolt and sockets since it's probably more useful for odd sizes.
The gear puller might work to remove them but definitely won't be able to install the new.
Should keep the gear puller but am disappointed now that I seen its abit short
I also decided to get some socket adapters as they seem to be handy 1/2 to 3/8 and a 3/8 wobble adapter. Should be handy for hard to reach places.


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So the gear puller not long enough.
I just been rooting about looking at what I could use and so far this seems to fit its longer and fits through the bushing also it's very strong and I doubt it will break.
Its a rear axle spindle from a mountain bike that I recently replaced.
Now its just a case of find the cup and race to fit I think might have to buy those.
Think sockets are too expensive unless you can get them at a flea market.
Also have seen you can use drill saw cups I do have some but they are not the right type.
When looking I think the kit that may fit or looks similar to this bushing was a fiesta I wonder if all the small trailing axles are similar cause that didn't look much different.
For now tho I got the first part.
After looking the hole saws will be 20 and the bushing remover kit I looked at is around 30 so it's probably better just to buy that I'm waiting to see if they can come up with sizes then I can know if it would be suitable.
Says it's for fiesta IV or KA
Got no reply on the bolts but the removal tool I did so that might be useful.
I found another link that I'm going to try tonight and see If I can get the bolts ordered.
Its really slow process finding the parts they must be still available tho.
Was looking today what type of bolt will fit for the rear trailing arm bushing.
So I wanted to check size first.
The m12 fits loosely.
I had one left from another previous task.
The bolt is way too short tho but I did find I have a few other spares that I might be able to use.
Still not measured it up yet but want to match original.
I know that it's partially threaded but not sure what length or if it has a raised part at the bolt end.
Been working on making space today. As I've not been able to work with the car much this week. Due to building work ect.
Organisation of work space is really important and something I have been struggling with.
Found these they are camber bolts tho and I don't really need to change this since its not lowered.
Others I've noticed are power flex also camber bolts.
And some febi that I'm unsure of since they don't show what vehicles they are compatible with.


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These arrive today for the axle but since it's not the cause of the leak the shall go into the store box ready for if and when replacement goes ahead.
I got a set of these since if it was the cause of leaking oil I could put one in and then replace the axle if problem continue.
Not so bothered now tho they will come in handy later on..


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Here is my replacement for the bike wheel hub it's way heavier and I think it will work. 😬
Shame it's case is dented tho. 👎


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What size are the inner tie rods or more to the point what removal tool will fit properly for this item.

I have ordered some inner and outer rods and figured better to change out while the work is being done on that.

I went with Mapco as it was a better deal than TRW from fleabay.
Not sure if I need the removal tool but if so will use this type. 33 - 42mm unsure if this a standard size.
Have searched but not finding an answer.


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Tool looks ok, remember the inner rods will be tight. I have recently removed my rack for a complete refurbishment, as I had removed lower sub frame to renew the bushes with was causing a banging sound from the passenger side, but turned out to be drivers(RH side) which was U/s so must have been see sawing under the floor pan! I had replaced my inner track rods with Mapco too, as I had them stored for some time and came with the out track rod ends as well, this is a long standing quality German manufacturer since the 1970's so no worries there. good luck and any problems we are here for advice.;)
Says is a universal tool and seems robust by what others have shown of it in action.
Can heat it up a bit to help loosen off if it's stuck on really badly.
Only thing I didn't get was new boots will try to re use if possible or just replace if they do happen to be no good.
I'm also awaiting some stub drill bits to try again with heatshield.
What you may find is the original inner track rod end may have no hexaganal part to the end (Mapco should have this hex on it) so it will need a tool that will grip with teeth to enable a suitable grip in the part that screws into the rack rod. DO NOT HEAT UP THIS PART AS IT IS AFFIXED TO THE TOOTHED ROD AND HAS SEALS WHICH WILL BE DESTROYED AND RENDER THE RACK NEEDING FULL REMOVAL TO SORT OUT.Just degrease the inner track end once you have removed the steering bellows. Look for a good deal on new bellows as it would be a shame not to complete this task in full.:unsure:
Thanks for that link, actually just trying out auto doc as a new place for parts.
I do have long extension bars for my ratchet so will avoid heat.
Was just a thought that once its installed putting the old ones back will probably not look so great or last long time.

Are those a pair or a single item? As can see sub category with steering bellow sets that are not much difference with prices.
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For the price its not worth revisiting the job later on if the bellows start to split, regards the inner track rods, they are tight for a reason, not through corrosion but they have to be tighter than the friction in spinning the rods to get the correct wheel alignment, otherwise the whole unit will unscrew! just take your time when starting the job, and when it's done it will be well worth it. driving around the UK now you need dependable steering and a good braking system to avoid the idiots.
After checking who delivers the auto doc parcels I found that it can take long time to arrive so not ideal for everyone.
So I've ordered else where and when I got a reply back it's only for a single Bellow even though they show two in the image and call the item a set.
I'm not that bothered tho because I am expecting the items to not arrive quickly.
I usually spend a few hours sourcing my spares from various sources both here in the UK and abroad, It pays to shop around and also shop by part number and then cross check and seach again using the item description , it can be a huge difference in price sometimes, perserverence is the name of the game and usually pays off. I am stuck with having to pay top money for a new intercooler as its model specific and not much stock around.:unsure:
I initially thought its 8 pound postage again. The part does not weight up for that amount. Would have worked out about similar price for both either way.
Can see that auto doc is a good company tho. They insures the contents while the other place I was shopping with before sent me the dented exhaust mid pipe. Couldn't care much that I was disappointed.
Does the dci micra have an intercooler I thought those are on the large Isuzu off roaders.
The sports diesel is a turbo charged beauty, hence its needs a intercooler to cooled the forced air from the turbo as this is driven by exhaust gasses which heats up the air and is no good for efficient combustion.I have toyed with aftermarket intercoolers which are more cost effective, but as i am putting the car back to stock for better MPG I want the engine to run as effecient as possible.
Yes you have to be careful with some sellers out there it a minefield, I usually keep to a list of responsible sellers for most consumable parts, to avoid incidents like your exhaust.
Would a renault or other type intercooler be compatible?
My thought on that you might find a low milage breaker that would sport the part you wanted and still be in good condition.
Just a thought they probably won't fit or are same prices as what you have seen.
I know that anything water cooled gets expensive once was working with that in a desktop pc and the pumps are ridiculously priced for what they do.
I have opted for a aio cooler that is closed loop.
Its not quite the same thing tho because once it goes wrong they are unserviceable. This is not the type of item I would recommend but since I hardly use it should last a while for my purpose.
Oh I got another message the part I ordered is a kit so that's great. It's not the best brand name but they are only rubber boots.
That's pleasing because I didn't want to buy a third time.
The aftercooler (intercoolers are used between the engines cylinders on a rotary engines on planes, hence the word intercoolers).
the after cooler is model specific to the model due to the lack of space, first is the engine radiator then comes the air con radiator and infront of all of them taking priority of the the air flow is the cooler for the turbo, this is basically just a small radiator that fills with pressured hot air from the turbo,this hot air is then cooled down and sent to the inlet box (superchargers use the engine or electric motor to do the same thing but without the hot air you find with exhaust drived turbo's), I cannot consider any second hand units as the fins have to be in A1 condition, I will then spray the whole unit in heat resistant matt black paint to help dissipate the heat in the cooler when in use.
glad you are getting the kit to finish the job completley.
I'm almost there for all items to rebuild.
Was considering the antiroll bar bush replacements at same time will check that and see how they are I think looked okay.
The space to check and replace these bushes is very limited with the subframe in place, and I would not recommend you attempting lowering the subframe alone. Best to concentrate on the one job at a time and see how you go.
My experience is wait untill you need to change the subframe bushes, unless you feel any play in the Antiroll bar when dealing with the inner steering rods?:unsure:
To be honest with you a had a bar in on all the points at the passengers side and the only thing I noticed what didn't feel tight was the two bolts holding the strut to the knuckle where the wheel attaches.
This is because the bolts are not in with the right orientation or at least that's what I think I'm hearing.
Its odd because that was the item or area stuff came loose after an mot.
I did notice slight movement at the control arm inner bush.
Don't really plan on changing engine bushes.
If that make sense to you it's hard to see in images on here but the nut and bolt go one way round and on drivers side is in the correct orientation.
I think the vibration or force of motion is what made it loosen
That is what I will turn round next time.
I had to double check what I was seeing and confirm that it was placed differently.
Got them in post today the bellows are nice and soft not plastic. That was what I imagined they would be like, are nice tho quality wise.

They do have tie clips rather than the metal clips.
The box was crushed doesn't effect this product but yeah eBay.
Car parts in motion I try to avoid after things not fitting and other problems.
Tie clips are fine for the larger side of the bellows that attach to the steering rack itself ( I have used the same on mine), however on the smaller part that covers the inner rod, then I would recommend Mikalor Spring Hose Clips.
With the suspension strut connecting to the steering knuckle I would use some M12x60mmx1.25 pitch bolts with a tensile strengh of 10.9 or 12.9.
Use some quality washers and you will be worry free from these coming lose.:unsure:
I did renew those and I think the bolts have washer built in. Will be keeping an eye on it from now on and will replace if I notice anything once I swap it to correct way round.

With those hose clips I will definitely find some and get them sent shortly.
Looking at low profile Jack's next and a couple more axle stands possibly.
This would make lifting less of a task.

The trouble I have when lifting is on the drive is a drain cover that is on an angle and so when the car is parked where I want it sometimes becomes hard to place the stand where needed.

This is like a battle for space because I have a hedge at the side so I will try something else I think I have enough room. Just need to place some pointers to show me where it is that way I can avoid that area.
Just watched a video of subframe being removed from a note that looks like a big job. I can get a helper but what they are willing to do would be limited.
Not really in my future plans but will definitely check what condition they are in.

Those clamps look like one I got for the air intake. I need to check what will fit next for the bellows. They have to be able to spin for adjustment as I'm understanding from what I've seen so the alignment adjusting does not twist the boot.
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A little silicon gell under the small part of the boot before the clip is tight and this will enable the rod to spin ok. I would definitely leave the sub frame for now with the description of the obstacles you would need to deal with. With the sub frame bushes you can easily check with a small crowbar to check if the rubber bush has come away from its outer housing. I removed my sub frame to have it shot blasted, then sprayed silver and pressed two new bushes in place all for less than £50.
If you do decide to change the bushes in the future get back here to guide you through the job as there is no k12 videos on this.
I tend to use 3 tonne axle stands apart from them being stronger they have a larger cup area which I put rubber covers on them. Also a a Halfords 2 tonne low profile trolley jack is a good investment with a rubber stop fitted into the cup area.
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Here is what I'm looking at for the lower profile jack.
Stands I have been waiting to match with what I got they are 2 ton hawk's.
Question, are these axle stand in the image similar to what you described? .
The jack in image 2.5 and stands are 3 ton
Used to have a large Clarke 3.5 ton jack not sure if it were low profile but it was very heavy duty.

My reason for waiting was to have a matching set of 4 because they would have the same height match.

My trolley jack that I got now is a cheap one atm it can lift the vehicle but I don't think it's that great and would like to try and get one that can lift slightly higher.
I found I was unable to get it under at the front of vehicle.
I know that having correct equipment and saftey is a must for this type of work and so I will try to get a decent quality.

For the mean time I'm going to get the mikalor clamps as a set some washers. Will also be using thread loc to be double sure that anything I remove will be secured in future.


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Jacks I have used for years and the profiled head is much wider to spread the weight, also consider rubber boots when lifting in areas you dont want dented or scratched. i have used these for years and will be more than a match for all cars so the K12 you have no worries.low profile jacks are there to lift only, and not to be relied on whilst working on the vehicle, so don't go over the top with £'s on trolley jacks as they are only a means to lift the car whilst the Axle stands are positioned.:unsure:


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I do have the pads for both but only seem to used them once with the axle stands.
When I place them it's always on the part under the sill past the jack point.
That seems to be the most secure I'm not really keen on the jacking points that are on the sill but it's OK with the pads as this fits around and saves any scratching.
Caution is needed when finding a strong jacking/axle stand point, as all cars will be in a different state of corrosion, mine is A1 as it stored in winter with only 60K on the clock.
If you are not certain about an area to jack on I tend to use scaffolding board (40mm thick) the same length as the width of the car and use this to spread the weight of the vehicle on the axle stands.also you can use the board too to place on the ground and place the axle stand on them if the ground area is not flat or unstable.:unsure:
Im aware that some areas may bend and other unwanted things can happen.
The main area I was struggling with was at rear trying to get the axle stand under on the pinch point.
I think last time I used some wood to lift with when I done the brake drums I do recall that I had a bit of an issue tho the first time I tried I let it drop onto the axle stand meaning to just drop the car back on the wheels and it hit the sill.
The area is flat that I'm working on with a very slight incline and other than that man hole cover it's a nice new surface only being layed a few year ago.
I would always avoid working on a soft surface.
Rear axle mounts would be the strongest point to place the axle stands on, however if you need to get access to that area, and the undercarriage is uncertain then use the scaffolding plank to span the width the car. again with the experience you have aquired you will know it''s all about preparation way before you start on something.
Got all the bits now some washers and the hose clips I bought a pack of because it's best to have spares they seem to be on a few hoses so can renew them at some point.
My lifting skill should improve I think it's just getting used to doing it I found a great guide last night showing how to lift a large van and what I learned from that I was not doing it correctly.
I will add a link when I find it may be useful if anyone else has trouble.
Glad you are researching this subject, as you will have learned, jacking the vehicle and keeping it elavated safely for the tasks you want to perform is critical especially when you will spend some time doing various jobs.Hydraulic jacks are very good at quick lifting and ok for tyre changing firms, however hydraulic rams do have what is called cylinder creep,(which is where the jack can slowly lower!), this can be so miniscule that over a short period it may not show, however as I have said earlier physical stops (axle stands) are neccessary for any extended jobs.:unsure:
Okay as you mentioned the bolts for suspension struts.
They are 8.8 high tensile bolts and nyloc nuts.
Must be those because I have one left from 5 and the nuts are nyloc.
Was checking the washers fit on those for now.
They are fine pitch I have plenty of spares of the nuts if they need to be replaced.
Do those nyloc nuts only work once and then we have to replace them.
Kinda confused at how the tensile strength of the bolt you reccomend are higher 10. 8 12.9 can agree 10.8 might be better but 12.9 unsure they may be incorrect for this application?


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The bolts are ok, The bolts that I use have got a tensile strengh of either 10.9 or 12.9,and are zinc coated they are the only ones I use, you can use 10.9 or 11.9. 8.8 will do the job but for suspension this is the minimum standard you can use, I go for industrial strength as I full confidence in them,I have seen 8.8 bolts shear and strip their thread when dealing with them later.The Nyloc nuts link (M12x1.25) are also used in the wishbone bolts and I recommend changing these nuts when changing the lower wishbone. so a a pack of 10 with cover the 4 for the suspension and 2 for the two bolts for each lower wishbone bolts (4 in total for the wishbones).:unsure:
Alright I will get the 12.9s m12 60mm for the bolts and a pack of those zinc coated nut m12s so 4 bolts and 10 nuts

The wish bones have different size bolts or are same?
I think in the guide what I seen the look longer.

Got the pinch bolts here already they seem to be correct.


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On the wishbone bolts, they are longer, but are still M12x1.25 pitch, so the new nyloc nuts (with a washer) will be fine.
generally with production cars, the design teams use the minimum bolt strengh requirments and do not go overboard with specifications as their main aim is high volume to keep assemble costs down. so when you come to replacing parts as long as your replacements meet or exceed the original standards on the car you will not go wrong.