Suspension system.

I was trying to decide if i should do the lower ball joint or the suspension strut first.
Have so far been watching how to determine if they are shot or not. So will then know if they really need doing or if they can go a few more mile. Before replacement however i really want to get the parts on. This is handy tho to know where noises are coming from.
I did also get the tool other day and it looks very good quality.
Have also been checking on how best to remove those lower ball joints.
Sure at least on of them will be stuck if not both.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
All good quality products, I have Sachs front Dampers on mine and are dependable, ( they also make great performance engines)
Mapco have been around since the 1970's first used them on my Magnum years ago. I changed my inner and outer track rod ends with this company on the Micra, super quality and great prices, here is there E-bay outlet (professional service from start to finish):
www.ebay.co.uk/usr/mapco-uk?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754:unsure:
Sachs were OEM fitting on all Saabs......
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
'Fun' changing he front struts isn't it ;). When I fitted my 160SR springs I had the advantage of access to one of these spring compressors.........
60981_N1000Biu.jpg

I have a set of the threaded rod ones but my mate that did the job with me produced these out of his extensive tool kit :cool:. Made for a much easier and safer job......
 
Those ones are a lot smarter and safer to work with I know that the ones I got were moving around a lot so it takes more time and safety is a big issue with the basic tools eventually I got used to them and for what they are I only expect them to last for the one job and maybe to view the ones I take off.
Don't think it would be a good idea to expect much more from them and the cons are a lot of metal fragmentation.


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Best fit the parts you have assembled, then you don't get ahead of things with parts laying around (and assembly bolts etc).
Difficult to tell for sure with bottom ball joints, I would take off all the assembly bolts off the bottom wish bone, this will release any assembly pressure from the joint and check for and play in the joint and if the boot is torn.
Ball Joint EES00109
Tightening Torque EES0010A
Unit: N·m (kg-m, ft-lb)
Drive type 2WD
Camber -0°51’ - 0°39’ (-0.85° - 0.65°)
Caster
3°42’ - 5°12’ (3.70° - 5.20°) CR & HR 16 engines
3°36’ - 5°06’ (3.60° - 5.10°) K9K engines
Kingpin offset 9°03’ - 10°33’ (9.05° - 10.55°)
Toe-in In 2 - 0 mm (0.08 - 0 in)
Axial end play 0mm (0 in)
Sliding torque 0.5 - 4.9 N·m (0.05 - 0.5 kg-m, 5 - 43 in-lb)
Spring scale measurement (ball stud cutout) 15.4 - 150.8 N (1.6 - 15.4 kg, 3.5 - 33.9 lb)👍

If the joint is very free it will obviously be worn beyond the tolerances above and then it is just a case of removing the pinch bolt and with plenty of penetrating spray knocking it free of the drive knuckle, but support the bottom of the drive shaft as the shock of freeing the joint will be diverted downwards and not be trying to pull down on the new suspension strut!:unsure:
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Don't waste the spring compressors they will be ideal for when you replace the rear springs.
I didn't use any compressors on the back. With the wheel off, just supported the hub with a jack, removed the rear shock, then let down the jack slowly to take the pressure off of the spring, then reversed the procedure when replacing the spring, fitted the lower shock mount then slowly jacked the hub till the top fixing of the shock came far enough through the top body mount to put the nut on.............
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Those ones are a lot smarter and safer to work with I know that the ones I got were moving around a lot so it takes more time and safety is a big issue with the basic tools eventually I got used to them and for what they are I only expect them to last for the one job and maybe to view the ones I take off.
Don't think it would be a good idea to expect much more from them and the cons are a lot of metal fragmentation.


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A lot smarter, but bloody expensive, the draper ones won't give a lot of change out of £300!! :eek:. My mate has been doing auto repairs professionally for quite a few years and has just about every bit of professional kit that is available:cool:.
 
Was going to say you don't need to compress the rear springs.
So I do not intend compressing those apart from May be with jack to line up and return the bolts.
I seen one of those special compressors for 60. Not sure they are as good but a lot better than the basic.


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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Better investing in various types of Jacks, you are nearly finished with the Springs.:unsure:
Agree, I have two small trolley jacks, a hydraulic bottle jack and a few mechanical scissor jacks and of course the ALL IMPORTANT axle stands......
 
Have the set of axle stands a bottle jack that's tiny have not try using .
A trolley jackn Some wheel stops.That also double as mini ramps made those my self and have used them they seem to work alright for giving 2 inch rise this was enough for me to crawl under just slightly less height than with the stands.
I'm slim tho so its not much a problem.
But for most part they are just to lock the wheels off.

Its also handy for a quicker way to get the car on axle stands.not much quicker but helps a little.

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Last time I checked them for movement every thing seemed to be tight and no unwanted movement in the bushes etc and other areas I think that was when the discs n pads got replaced.
Can't say they are great. Just from visual inspection they look alright IMO.
I'm going to also try to find a bright marker.
To show me where the bolts are positioned and that also should give me a visual on any moment should that happen.
Then I can torque them up if I see movement.


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Best fit the parts you have assembled, then you don't get ahead of things with parts laying around (and assembly bolts etc).
Difficult to tell for sure with bottom ball joints, I would take off all the assembly bolts off the bottom wish bone, this will release any assembly pressure from the joint and check for and play in the joint and if the boot is torn.
Ball Joint EES00109
Tightening Torque EES0010A
Unit: N·m (kg-m, ft-lb)
Drive type 2WD
Camber -0°51’ - 0°39’ (-0.85° - 0.65°)
Caster
3°42’ - 5°12’ (3.70° - 5.20°) CR & HR 16 engines
3°36’ - 5°06’ (3.60° - 5.10°) K9K engines
Kingpin offset 9°03’ - 10°33’ (9.05° - 10.55°)
Toe-in In 2 - 0 mm (0.08 - 0 in)
Axial end play 0mm (0 in)
Sliding torque 0.5 - 4.9 N·m (0.05 - 0.5 kg-m, 5 - 43 in-lb)
Spring scale measurement (ball stud cutout) 15.4 - 150.8 N (1.6 - 15.4 kg, 3.5 - 33.9 lb)

If the joint is very free it will obviously be worn beyond the tolerances above and then it is just a case of removing the pinch bolt and with plenty of penetrating spray knocking it free of the drive knuckle, but support the bottom of the drive shaft as the shock of freeing the joint will be diverted downwards and not be trying to pull down on the new suspension strut!:unsure:
Was ment to quote this with the above message..
And want to ask where you sourced this info.


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info is in the Nissan workshop manual, there a down load link in my previous messages. Well worth the free download and packed with info on various K12 models.:)
 
(On the third post in this thread)
Should I bother with the above Tool that can help to digitally calibrate the alignment or at the very least give some info to write down
I am aware that after changing each of the two parts I'm going to be doing soon will effect this somewhat.
Have already thought about getting a garage to digitally align the wheels afterwards.
The tool would be good for giving me a more accurate reading that i could write down before and after.
Not wanting to complicate things too much though.
The garage alignment will be worth doing as the tyres are still new.


Info For :- Camber and castor

Info For :- Do I Really Need an Alignment?
 
Best thing is, as I have found is to replace front wishbones, and if your budget allows change the track rod ends, once these are all done, then I would opt for the digital tracking, this will keep your steering wheel straight after all the work you have done, and track the steering digitally , I can tell you it was well worth it as the Micra's suspension is VERY sensitive to changes after replacement of any parts.:)
 
I'm planning on getting it tracked again with same place as it just been done early this year while the tyres got fitted.
Its hardly been driven many miles at all.
Must be at least a thousand miles left before service.
Though its due September.
I will just get the tie rod ends after its put through its test and then install everything.
I will still try to at least get the struts in soon maybe mid week that should happen.
The tracking is fine still ATM.
I just wanted to know what to expect after the install.
And that's good advice.
Need to see when I can get booked in before I start changing stuff.


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Normally I show a diagram and here it is I have only just looked at this last night.
And noticed some steering knuckle.
My question is since this is a nut I should replace what size is it. I need to replace as a whole the bolt also.

This is of concern because I remember some old car my dad had that was a Ford cortina estate.
When he had it for a while one day it let go in that area as far as I remember.
He was going slowly luckily and was not hurt.
The car however was instantly scrapped.
This was a good old motor that my grandad had fixed and was using it was spotless inside and out.
Maybe they had corroded or some thing.


Screenshot_2020-08-31-02-02-12_1.jpg


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Looks like a diagram from the workshop manual, the steering knuckle you refer to as no 6 in the diagram I assume you are referring to the pinch bolt at the bottom of the diagram this I believe is a M10 x 1.25, but I have some old bolts in the workshop I will check later and let you know the right size and pitch. the top two bolts are for connecting the steering knuckle to the front struts which I think you know of.:unsure:
 
Steering pinch bolts (which screws into steering knuckle to clamp bottom ball joint) sizes are :
M10 x 1.25 x 50mm long. hope this helps. The two other bolts that hold the lower wish bone are 12mm x1.25 bolts which should be Ok as long as you put new nyloc nuts and washers when reassembling.:unsure:
 
Yes I have those already the m12 bolts and the nylock threaded nuts.
The others just spring out as something that I think it would be best to change regardless of condition for the reason I have mentioned in the last post.



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yes, bolts that are under stress and get corroded with age, I have always found that for sake of cheap cost of replacement nut and bolts before hand. stops any concerns about metal fatigue.
 
Generally with bolts you can order any type, part threaded is the ones that Nissan used in the lower knuckle assembly, Part threaded is the one to use in this situation as the bolts goes through the knuckle assembly and pegs the lower ball joint in place, as you tighten the bolt.:)
 
These are the parts I'm going to get if this is correct.
They seem correct but you may see slight difference such as if they should be different material or if the nut should be serrated or none flanged ect.

M10 x 1.25 Metric Fine 8.8 Grade High Tensile Yellow Zinc Hex Head Bolts & Sets

M8 M10 M12 M16 M20 M24 HIGH TENSILE ZINC YELLOW PASSIVATED FINE PITCH

Edit :- Have double check to make sure they are 1.25 fine pitch Nyloc
Thats the last of the parts now for sure..

Tie Rod ends tho :LOL:
 
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Not sure if i showed that i already have the wishbones as a pair and the anti roll bars

APH Rollbars and the tops for suspension are also APH the anti roll bars look very good indeed but the name APH Automotive unsure??
When i can start on the install will be tomorrow or next day because i have to keep the way clear for dads car to get in and out.
Im pretty sure i could get it done quickly but do not want to cause a mini road block on the drive ;)
P_20200901_001558_1.jpg
 
The bolts need to be 8.8 strength or higher, M10 for the pinch bolt and M12 for the rest of the bolts. The nyloc nuts can be used with a stainless steel washer or you can opt for flanged nyloc nuts, but cost is steeper for these.The linkage bolts, that is the long 150mm one and the shorter one that goes through the rubber bush are easy to remove, where the problem may be is the bottom joint as corrosion tends to expand the shaft and it becomes difficult to remove, use plenty of penetrating oil and allow more time to get this out, also support the steering knuckle if you resort to any downward shock force from hammer blows.:unsure:
 
So here I go.
All out on drivers side but I lost the bolt at windscreen.
How do I get this out

Looks not so bad remember this is where the weld is just forward under the light
Don't think I'm going to add paint I'm clearing the crud tho atm.
P_20200901_134612.jpg


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I get old bolts and nuts out with a small magnet on a telescopic rod, cheap enough on e-bay, yes inside of top turrets is ok just superficial rust nothing to worry about. With regards to to the wish bones both have to be changed as this affects the suspension set up, as the suspension gets sagged with age and wear, you have got the new one's so take your time and attempt them whenever you feel like it, with the new suspension struts and new top bearings the steering will be taught and precise.(y)
 
I get old bolts and nuts out with a small magnet on a telescopic rod, cheap enough on e-bay, yes inside of top turrets is ok just superficial rust nothing to worry about. With regards to to the wish bones both have to be changed as this affects the suspension set up, as the suspension gets sagged with age and wear, you have got the new one's so take your time and attempt them whenever you feel like it, with the new suspension struts and new top bearings the steering will be taught and precise.(y)

How tricky was it to get the wheel arch liner out?
 
It took a while but now it back on terafirma.
The abs sensor wires Look brand new so I was extra careful around those and the brake lines.
It took longer the find the 13mm socket than to remove the arch wheel liner.
I found it tho after 10 mins it was on top of the suspension strut.
Tomorrow I will start the other side

The longest job here was the anti roll bar because I had the wrong hex key set and they had nothing to grab behind.
So had to resort to molegrips probably my least favorite tool they worked tho eventually after a long struggle.

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The back of the one that just been removed.
Badly corroded on inside and boot is split also.
The strut looks like more like the Japan parts from the metal part on top of the strut main housing.

Glad this is off the car what a pile of rubbish...

P_20200901_181650.jpg


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Not a problem but thanks any way, looks like the parts were well worth the effort to replace, like all suspension parts, its only when you get them out for inspection you come across the real condition of the parts. remember all this work is worth it steering, brakes and suspension is all important out on the road and having a deep insight of the working parts of the car is priceless.:)
 
Gives me something to do while waiting for the driving lessons.
and i can say its saved me about 400quid already vs what the corsa had done for its last mot

Will be cool to see what its acually like after. Compared to before i already feel a big difference in the power steering. Just moving back and forward to see if it was seated and safe.
 
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And shot of front end on ground after the work has been completed for front struts and anti roll bars.
Sat in both front seats and I can feel its more level than before no more sagging to the left...
P_20200902_184556.jpg
P_20200902_184559.jpg


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Yes it is a good feeling,I decided to do the work myself since being disappointed wit bike shops not doing a job properly and I always try to avoid letting another person do the job if I think I can manage.
I really must rest and recharge tho as I had a few things that made the job take hours longer than it should have.
Thing that is good though is its done right and the parts are quality.

Makes a nice change also if something has to be removed and you know its not going to be stuck like somebody welded it on.


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yes best to rest up knowing the good work that you have achieved by sourcing quality parts at bargain prices and seeing the true condition of the parts you have replaced them with.😃
 
Thought it might be a good day after seeing this shortly after waking up this was amazing to see and be so close to I don't think I've ever seen anything as cool as this.
Rocking awesomeness.
Screenshot_2020-09-03-00-55-19_1.jpg
 

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looks like a red tailed hawk. you are lucky to have snapped this, maybe he had come to double check your work?:cool:
 
My dad says a female but didn't tell me what type of bird/hawk it is only its often mistaken for a kestral.
Anyways on a search I find nearest bird is a Buzzard, Buteo buteo.

Hopefully the car will drive as smooth and effortlessly as this buzzard flys through the air.
This is yet to be tested.

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