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SuperS Forged Turbo Build

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I had the same when taking the bonnet to be painted, your man doing the body prep had more to do than he thought!

I've not gotten around to paint yet (get away with it on a white car), plus I've got to take the permagrit wheel to the bonnet a few more times to fit a set of aerocatches and the bonnet vent. One of the plans to get more efficient airflow through the intercooler and radiator 😉
 
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Have you been busy tinkering away Dave?

Very very slowly Paul.

Mainly waiting on a patch harness for the ECU at the minute and planning a way forward with respect to plumbing in the brakes.

I'm making slow progress on the interior to tidy everything up after removing the sound deadening but covid is pushing everything back sadly.
 
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Ah nice, I thought they looked slightly flared - is that just the 20mm they quote on their website or have you eeked it out a little more?

Just what they quote on their site. They provided enough increase to house the wheel and brake combo I wanted and still look OEM'ish 😊
 
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Went to Matt's Micra Emporium today to do a walk through on brake lines for the car. While I was there, I picked up a Lexan rear window to fit into the GRP tailgate.

A fully populated SuperS tailgate weights a wopping 19.8kgs. The GRP tailgate molding weights 3kgs and the window a further 3.4kgs. So, all told that's 6.4kgs, saving 13.4kgs, (a smidge less for screen bondo though). Together with the GRP bonnet, which is 5kgs vs 12kgs for a stock item. That's a further 20.4kgs off the car 😎

Progress wise. I finally got round to tidying up the interior of the car after removing all the factory sound deadening. Rear of the car to do next before a coat of FX Liner and spending an age with some 3M speed tape to cover all of the holes 😒

20200923_145038.jpg
 
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Syvecs S6+ coilpack patch harness has been completed. Just waiting on an ethernet connector, so it's connectable.

FB_IMG_1606152997551.jpg


Looking forward to finishing off the interior tidy up, so I can get the coilpack loom finish installed along with a main power and fuse relocation.
 
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Spent the past week trawling through the Nissan Service manual breaking down the coilpack loom in order to wire in various things that are needed to get the car up and running.

Typical examples are utilising the OEM rear heated window switch to drive the front heated screen, seeing as the rear window is now Lexan. Also utilising the OEM aircon switch to activate the WiFi module, which allows convenient cable free access to the ECU. That however requires a permanent live supply, so you don't have to wait for it to boot in the event of the ignition being switched off.

Main power feeds are also needed for an internal battery to the starter and main fuse box. I'm still scratching my head regarding final placement for the main fuse and relay boxes. As the cold charge pipe and turbo intake both sit where they are on a standard car.

To help with mockups for now, I got myself a decent race battery, which will fit nicely where the OEM ECU sits behind the centre console. Nice neat solution and saves on passenger seat faff while minimising main power feed runs. Saves another 10kgs out of the car too, as the OEM battery tips the scales at 12kgs and this one only weights 1.96kgs. This is about the same spec as a Varley Red Top 25 but with almost 3x the CCA rating 💪

20210112_184746.jpg
 
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Let the mocking up begin. Nissan changed the ruddy ECU bracket / chassis points when they switched to the larger NATS ECU 🤦‍♂️

Anyway, the general idea is still the same for where the battery is going to go. Third time lucky and I'll get a pre-NATS ecu bracket and start tweaking 🙂

20210113_132528.jpg
 
Syvecs S6+ coilpack patch harness has been completed. Just waiting on an ethernet connector, so it's connectable.

View attachment 73247

Looking forward to finishing off the interior tidy up, so I can get the coilpack loom finish installed along with a main power and fuse relocation.

I admire this build, attention to detail and tons of knowledge. Cant wait to see more progress.
Tbh, I am right before making same harness adapter to Ecumaster Emu in my K11 turbo build.
R u being able to help me by sending more pictures of your adapter creating process? Maybe some diagrams of wiring and pins in the plug?
 
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I admire this build, attention to detail and tons of knowledge. Cant wait to see more progress.
Tbh, I am right before making same harness adapter to Ecumaster Emu in my K11 turbo build.
R u being able to help me by sending more pictures of your adapter creating process? Maybe some diagrams of wiring and pins in the plug?

I'm afraid I didn't make it. I suck at anything beyond basic wiring/crimping skills, so I got a professional motorsport company to make it for me.
 
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Hi Dave.. Is there any news on this beautiful build ??
Keep it up !!
I haven't had the time to do any updates, nor much work. Now that I'm back full time at work, plus family life, I only get the odd 1/2 hour or 1 hour slots per day to do something. I do however take the time to make the odd snapshot of things as I make progress.

The car is currently up on jack stands with all the running gear off the car and I'm slowly working through a shell restoration. Extremely busy with the wire wheel taking things back to the factory e-coat and treating everything with Bilthamber products. So, Hydrate 80, Deox-Gel / Deox-C for any areas that have more than light corrosion or where you can't get a wire wheel in. Electrox (zinc rich primer), 2k Epoxy Mastic and, where required, touch ups with seam sealer overcoat with either 2k Fx-Liner or Graviguard stone chip.

So far I've managed to do both front arches and the driver's side underbody to an Electrox level (zinc top coat). It's painstaking work but worth it.

How the car currently stands
20200629_190134.jpg


Front arches taken back to factory e-coat and treated with Hydrate 80 where needed.
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Front arches after coating with Electrox.
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This is a great build, particularly like the patch harness for the stand alone. I'm planning on tapping directly into the loom for my CGA3 with a DTA S60. Did you get the results of the flow bench on the ported head? I'd be really curious to know the kind of difference that was made as I'm fitting ITBs to my engine and I'm thinking the head will be the next restrictive thing to tinker with.
 
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This is a great build, particularly like the patch harness for the stand alone. I'm planning on tapping directly into the loom for my CGA3 with a DTA S60. Did you get the results of the flow bench on the ported head? I'd be really curious to know the kind of difference that was made as I'm fitting ITBs to my engine and I'm thinking the head will be the next restrictive thing to tinker with.

The ported head flowed out at a smidge over 150bhp, which is very close to what is made on the dyno. It tuned out at 156bhp up at Atspeed Racing (Clayton 2WD Dyno), which is within acceptable accuracy. FYI, that engine ran ~12.8:1 compression and 290'ish deg cams with ~11mm lift.

I never ran that head, as I'd gotten out of the NA game (it was sold on) and the flow numbers weren't in the ballpark I was looking for in my next turbo engine.

If you want a decent head, speak to Matt Humphris up at Humphris Rally Sport (http://www.humphrisrallysport.co.uk/), as he's had some CNC profile heads done by a reputable company, (think Newen Contour BB multi-angle seats, CNC ports and chamber work, if you want to go that far).
 
Good to see your build progressing well, Dave. Hope to catch up to yours soon, though! Bloody Covid has slowed the supply-chain down but getting there. Paul
 
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