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SU carbed k10

The more i think about it the more its seems good , and it should be easy enough to go back standard if needs be ! Carbon sealed turbo's ? Is there any cars that would have these standard so i could pull one from a scrappy ?
 
padraicR said:
The more i think about it the more its seems good , and it should be easy enough to go back standard if needs be ! Carbon sealed turbo's ? Is there any cars that would have these standard so i could pull one from a scrappy ?
Click to expand...

Iirc early garrett turbos, pre 90 or something, were carbon sealed. You can get carbon seal kits to rebuild a turbo and convert it to carbon seal but mainly these are for, again iirc, T25's
So maybe an early RST T3 or something?
 
Not too bad ! :) and i will probably take up your offer and discuss this with you ...... When my exams are done , would feel nice to join that exclusive club , k10 carb'd turbos !
 
DRAW THRU CARB
- Extreme vacuum condition if the turbo is at boost and throttle is closed could suck the oil out of the turbo bearings. (never use a turbo off a diesel engine in a draw-thru setup because it lack the seals and will leak)
- If oil gets into the air / fuel mix, it lowers your octane immediately, and pinging will start at lower boost pressures.
-FIX- Need turbo with a positive (Carbon) seal on the compressor side of the turbine
-FIX- Run a oil cooler before the oil inlet into the turbo. This will cool the oil down and help it from being sucked through the seals or blown through the exhaust side (cooler oil is thicker). Also makes the turbo run cooler and last longer.

- Restricting the intake to the turbo will lose compressor efficiency.
- Air-Fuel mixture must pass through the turbo
- Fuel must stay suspended in the intake charge
- Compressor turbine will throw the fuel against the turbo shell, causing a lean-out condition, thus turbo lag.
- Fuel is denser than air and tends to separate in the turbo and puddle up
- Turbo less efficient because it has to pump heavier mixture
When carb causes a pressure drop and the turbo tries to increase the pressure there is a loss in efficiency, which translates into a hotter mixture in the engine which limits the boost you can run and your power.
-FIX- Water / Alcohol Port Injection
-FIX- Avoid Extra Intake bends
- Heat needed to keep the carb from Icing
 
Intresting ! The still seem like small problems , especially preventing the carb from icing , seen as its right beside the exhaust mani , keeping oil cool aswell and as little bends as possible on intake mixture , but to be quite honnest im not mad afart a figure of power on a sheet of paper , for me its more the engineering behind the set up. So once no harm is done i wont be too worried about loosing power, infact that could be for the better of the engine ! Just want to make sure i wont do harm , and that write up is very descriptive for solutions :)
 
I will do ! Just not tonight , i better retire or ill never get up for this exam first thing ! Cant wait to get em over ! Thanks for all your help ill be getting right back on it after these exams :)
 
Right one exam done :p

So just wondering , will the fuel pump be fine if it has to pump a further distance ?

Also i nearly died thinking the potential hardship the throttle cable could cause :(
 
Hope it went well :) Pump should be fine and one common solution for the accelerator cable is, believe it or not, bicycle brake cables :)
 
Brake cables ? Brilliant ! Just as reliable , ! Dont feel as bad about that ! Ill take it you really wanted to do this with your old 10 ade ?
 
Darn :( well ima do my best for you to see it work on a k10 ! Maybe ill be a first to do it on a k10 ( this is normally the way you root up someone who has already done it ) had you any plans where to get a turbo ? What 90's cars would be common ish so i could go hunting in scrapyards ?
 
My plan re:turbo was gonna be (probably) T25. I know it's on the large side but they are plentiful and easy to get a carbon seal rebuild kit for. EBay FTW! ;)
 
Yeah , t25 , id have to change the flange on the mani iv arranged to buy but thats not the end of the world i suppose ! Especially if i can get a t25 !
 
you could remove the SU throttleplate, and fit one downstream of the turbo to avoid the oil ingest problems eh :)
you would probably need to recirc the fuel/air mix @ lift tho
 
padraicR said:
So like a trotle plate it the pipeing after the turbo?

And the air fuel mix , wouldnt be two hard adjust sure it wouldnt ?
Click to expand...
yes, remove the SU butterfly, and fit a t/b post turbo (basic SR20 or QG one, with no integral maf)
and the turbo needs to spool down @ lift, so you would need a diesel recirc valve that sends the fuel/air round in a circle for a second or two while the turbo slows down (or else a dump valve/BOV vented out of the engine bay)
 
Sr20 parts yes please ! Thats a good idea probably safer!

And dump vavle sounds cool however not so keen on igniting it Ade haha
 
Ill have a look ! I dunno a blow through set-up would probably give more power and its not exactly what im after , its more the workings of it and the principal of operation than the power, i thought maybe draw thru because it seemed simpler to me and something worth trying !
 
Not sure, think so, worth a look :)

Draw thru seems kinda of...well... Explosively dangerous to me ;)

Hot turbo and petrol right next to it !

Sure it's fine if done right
 
mu8u9uja.jpg

Your views and opinions on this wierd diagram of how the mg metro turbo works ? And thats supposed to be an su carb there .... Just a wierd picture
 
From what i see yes! I was told su is easy turbo but i didnt think that easy ( yes i realise its bound to be more complicated than i think :p )
 
Only thing you'll stumble on so far is your ignition and timing. Which is where me and neil are stuck.
Though the ma is a fast burning engine so you wont suffer much
 
Balls thats where id get caught seen as i dont have half the knowledge of you guys ,

But to clarify , if i make a random plenum box for air filter and connect that to turbo as shown , provided turbo has oil feed and all , thats that ?
( not including timing issue )
EDIT: not for air filter for carb
 
Pretty much in simple terms:
Bolt up turbo
Make air inlet with filter to turbo
Make piping from turbo to intercooler
Make piping from intercooler to plenum
Make plenum for carb
Then timing issue & fueling
 
Just got to save up for intercooler and turbo :) there the big bits :) i dont care , this is being done, . If i set up the su on its own , dyno it so i can have it set right and bolt up turbo then would i need to re adjust carb ? Or will it all come down to timing ?
 
Yea it will need readjusting. Na setups are very different to boost. As your carb acts as your fueling too. A boost referenced fuel regulator will be needed :) l
Timing will also need to be readjusted.
Boosted setups use less retard as they're air fuel mixture is hotter so ignites faster
 
Im afraid upon that i will be looking for help from all you mechanical stigs! Ha thanks again guys , looks like the setup has changed again! I used to be afraid of plenum because i didnt understand it, now it seems its. Just there to pressurise before the carb , now, off to find a turbo and intercooler!! Fook the exams ! :p ill study for them ..... Never :p
 
Believe it or not a well built self engineered car says more about you than a piece of paper anyway these days
For a mechanics job or engineers job anyway
 
Especially in the line of carrer im hoping for ! :) the car will be something to boast about in my interview at the end of next month ! Its not much of a car , but its better than driving a hairdressers car i know nothing about!
 
Yup ! If i manage to :p im sure i can pull a turbo from a breakers yard , now , with this set up , not needing carbon sealed , will turbos from diesel cars work ? I presume so ? Isnt pork uding the td04 turbo ?
 

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