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Red GX 'Betty'

I'll tell you what, I'll have my 100hp 1.6 and you have a 100hp 1.3, and we'll do 5th gear pulls from 30mph and see who wins ;)
Also, HP sells cars, TORQUE wins races ;)
 
Installed an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and set it at 2.5 bar which is the standard pressure? Correct me if im wrong. Think i may have flooded the engine in the process tho. Here is a video if anyone can help me out please :)
 
pull the pump fuse and try scott :)
Have been for a while now and still nothing. Left it for 15 mins and went back and nothing again. Took all the spark plugs out and they stank of fuel but didn't look wet so I cleaned them put them back In and it still won't go. How long shall I turn it over without the fuel pump fuse in?


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it only takes about 5 secs for it to fire up with the fuse removed mate, are you sure the reg is installed correctly ? (2.5 bar with the vacuum pipe connected, and 3 bar disconnected)
 
it only takes about 5 secs for it to fire up with the fuse removed mate, are you sure the reg is installed correctly ? (2.5 bar with the vacuum pipe connected, and 3 bar disconnected)
yeah the gauge reads 2.5 with vacuume connected. I'll try take the fuse out again see what happens.


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it only takes about 5 secs for it to fire up with the fuse removed mate, are you sure the reg is installed correctly ? (2.5 bar with the vacuum pipe connected, and 3 bar disconnected)
Will it be getting a vacume if the engine isnt running. I.e. Have it Set it to 3 bar when I turn the key and fuel pump kicks in?


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if you set the gauge to 4 bar, then plumb it into the feed pipe, and if it drops to 2.5 and 3 bar with the stock reg installed, then it is reading accurately :)
 
if you set the gauge to 4 bar, then plumb it into the feed pipe, and if it drops to 2.5 and 3 bar then it is reading accurately :)
If I take the fuel pump fuse out it try's to start about 3 or 4 times then after nothing happens then I put the fuel pump fuse back in and try and it tries to fire up then just carries on turning over :/


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I just remembered something that I got taught at college and feel like a right idiot now lol. I had it plumbed in before the fuel rail :doh: better go fit it right this time haha @frank


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Good stuff mate! Was it to do with the pipes then?
Yeah I plumbed it in before the fuel got to the fuel rail :facepalm:
Got the new wheel on to:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1384361519.235939.jpg

Look the part and feels much nicer than the standard one to :D


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Took my fuelling back down to 2.7 bar because it felt like it overfilling in low revs (bogging) feels a bit slower tho :/.
@frank Do you still have the coolant bypass and waxstat delete on your car? Does it start okay in this cold weather, in two minds weather to take it off or not now it's starting to get cold.


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bypass, and waxstat delete, and idle control valve delete scott :) i run a 700rpm idle in the summer, and 900+ in the winter (because of the alternator underdrive pulley, and battery draw from the lights and heater etc)
once the car is off the drive it idles fine (but thats with no P/S or aircon or whatever tho)
 
bypass, and waxstat delete, and idle control valve delete scott :) i run a 700rpm idle in the summer, and 900+ in the winter (because of the alternator underdrive pulley, and battery draw from the lights and heater etc)
once the car is off the drive it idles fine (but thats with no P/S or aircon or whatever tho)
Might have a go and up the idle. I doubt it will give any gains tho eh?


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most reg,s are,nt proper rising rate scott, you might need a 2 or 3:1 one, so that under light throttle/high manifold vacuum the fuel pressure is pulled down to about 20 psi (to cure the overfuelling low down) then when you floor it the vacuum disappears and the fuel pressure returns to 3 bar
 
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