Porks bike carbs and boost project

[pork]

Not been doing to much.
Removed this....

Along with metal under accelerator pedal, now get 100% throttle movement, instead of 79%
Which has made a big difference!
7psi straight of the mark.

Need more time on long roads to get the higher revs tuned.

Il try do some videos soon.

 

[pork]

That throttle only being open 3/4 was a huge restriction, bit now both boost gauges read the same

 

[Huggy444]

That's a bloody brilliant idea.... May get the grinder out!

 

[pork]

Mines a starlet throttle body on a k10micra pedal, that's why I needed the extra travel

 

[Huggy444]

Mines a starlet throttle body on a k10micra pedal, that's why I needed the extra travel

Ahhh... Makes sense, wondered why no one had done it before

 

[pork]

May have found a cheap replacment car/shell.
It's white facelift , so if all good, think ginna keep it looking stock outside, spray steels back to silver and just cut louvres in bonnet for intercooler.
Should draw less attention (Apart from silly noise)

 

[pork]

Got bored and thought I'd try make a spud gun from my supercharger BOV



Quick try with longer pipe, needed hose clips

 

[pork]

Thinking of stripping car down over winter (somthing to do)
And rebuild from bare shell, making it more of a striped out/lightweight beasty.

Question regarding fuel lines and tank. Mines a bit knackerd so was thinking of an alloy tank on the boot (can router the external pumps better)
Also, wanna upgrade my fuel lines, (again, old and tatty)
Can I run them inside, or is that a no no? If yes, what's best tube/pipe/hose to use?

 

[h701micra]

Have a quick nosey at my blog dude, recently stuck my fuel lines inside, you do as you please. Copper Kunifer tubing is the way to go, you can use 8mm microbore plumbing copper as long as it's painted
A friend of mine is making me a stainless steel fuel tank too, to use the same mounts etc but relocate pipes to make plumbing simpler. I'll get you some pics

 

[pork]

Cool, where my pumps are, is a tight squeeze getting the braided hosrs on to the originsl pipes!

Stinks of fuel inside the car so can't be good lol

 

[h701micra]

Not just me then, I opened my door and petrol fumes kicked me out (thinking my recent pipe kinking hasn't helped)

Where is your pump again?

My fuel lines
http://www.micra.org.uk/index.php?posts/702235

 

[pork]

Aah yes, did see this.

Here's me pumps

 

[pork]

Another question........with all the engine stripped out, is the shell light enough to be put on top of 4 25l oil drums?

 

[McMicra]

Another question........with all the engine stripped out, is the shell light enough to be put on top of 4 25l oil drums?

whut ^

 

[pork]

Lol, I wanna strip the car down to the shell....then put it on top of 4 25l oil drums.....so I can work underneath it

I way 100kg and one drum can support me easily.

So one under each corner should be ok?

 

[McMicra]

would've thought it would've be alright yeah, maybe fill the barrels with water might help them from buckling

 

[frank]

plastic drums neil ? filled with water they would

 

[pork]

Metal mate

 

[frank]

Metal mate

i doubt it neil, how about tipping the car on its side ?

 

[pork]

Not 4 of these?

Jus wanted the car raised so to work underneath it when I got few hours spare at work

 

[frank]

those things are only about 24 gauge mate, you can cut them with kitchen scissors

 

[pork]

Dam, so not even filled?

Like I said, I'm 100kg, and I jump up and down on these all day lol

 

[frank]

who ate all the pies water would help eh (till the seam burst )

 

[pork]

Haha, true!

I've got dozens of these brimmed with used oil

Unless you can suggest somthing simalar and same height

 

[frank]

they,ll suffice i guess neil, make one of these tilting frames, better than working underneath

 

[pork]

Nice!

 

[h701micra]

Aah yes, did see this.

Here's me pumps

Didn't realise you got a swirl pot man, must've missed this

Your pumps are in the same place as mine should work out ok. I'll try n remember to photo my setup for you to see what changed I've made

 

[pork]

Right, don't really wanna but gotta put house first.....for sale....

Turbo (tdo4, good condition)
My top mount turbo mani
M24 supercharger with mount for cg13
Preface lift grille
Anything of my preface lift car
4x frank flipped steels with good tyres

Il slap some pics up later, pm for prices

 

[Huggy444]

Right, don't really wanna but gotta put house first.....for sale....

Turbo (tdo4, good condition)
My top mount turbo mani
M24 supercharger with mount for cg13
Preface lift grille
Anything of my preface lift car
4x frank flipped steels with good tyres

Il slap some pics up later, pm for prices

Steels would be cool, 13"?

 

[pork]

14's

 

[Huggy444]

14's

Ahh no use, unless for stance yo... Rough price?

 

[pork]

Car Tottaly stripped!

Question now is what to do with it?

Stripped out lightweight track bitch?

It's actually in pretty good nick.

 

[pork]

What's better for track use?

High comp n/a

Turbo

 

[Horci]

n/a

 

[h701micra]

Depends how serious you take it Neil.
High comp NA screamer is more at its limit
A low boost turbo is better for hard use for the same amount of power reliably

My engine is not exactly a high comp super screamer but it wasn't made really for daily use, it's idle is a bit naff but at full whack is brilliant but because its working hard its high maintenance
If I was starting again, I'd go low boost turbo or better still, a supercharger

 

[pork]

Jus fancy a new challenge lol
Never bothered with na before, went straight to boost

 

[h701micra]

Jus fancy a new challenge lol
Never bothered with na before, went straight to boost

I never bothered either I handed my engine over to an old hand and he built it. My blunders show his work in a bad light but its brilliant when it goes

 

[pork]

Wanna have a go at a cg13 with cg10 Pistons, lightened pulleys/flywheel
Skim etc

Get into the guts of the engine

 

[h701micra]

Easier in theory than a turbo build

 

[pork]

Can you go to big on a throttle body?

 

[frank]

Can you go to big on a throttle body?

my n/a setup went well with the 60mm sr t/b neil, it is the same size as the stock maf housing (pics in my "another n/a" thread on cisco,s)

 

[pork]

Is a high comp cg13 with a decentish amount of work gunna be a let down in comparison ?

Only ever driven mine as it is and a diesel van lol

 

[frank]

Is a high comp cg13 with a decentish amount of work gunna be a let down in comparison ?

Only ever driven mine as it is and a diesel van lol

mine did 15.49 sec 1/4 mile times mate the subsequent +t setups have only improved that by .1 sec so far (albeit in a slightly heavier k11)
tuned n/a acceleration sort of creeps up on you (a straight/linear power band) +t acceleration usually comes in with an almighty bang and feels mega fast.
but when you time the 2 setups in reality, its surprisingly closematched
+t is more adrenalin inducing tho

 

[pork]

With turbo and stuff, I feel like I've just bolted crap on, not done any real mechanical work.
All I did was remove the head.
Feel like an engineering challenge,

Sticking with my ecu, how would set the spark, still use the map sensor?

 

[frank]

With turbo and stuff, I feel like I've just bolted crap on, not done any real mechanical work.
All I did was remove the head.
Feel like an engineering challenge,

Sticking with my ecu, how would set the spark, still use the map sensor?

your map will only be reading vacuum neil, but many modern cars run them eh, and you wont need to pull the timing @ high load as much

 

[pork]

Would I use the tps function then?

In regards to how much skimming can be done, (what's max) would I have to do somthing to the chaun

 

[frank]

i think the 1.0 pistons give nearly 12:1 c/r neil, so skimming will depend on what inlet cam and octane really, and a new chain will be maxing the tensioner at about 2.5mm skim.
were you running no tps before then ?

 

[pork]

So chain will be fine?

Tps was jus used in start up (100% throttle stopped injectors, prevented flooding)

Was jus map/rpm based

 

[frank]

a half worn lower chain will be slack @ 2.5mm skim (even with the tensioner fully out) so you need a new one really, the half links that i have are more suited to 3+mm skims (ie, a heavy skim with the stock 1.3 pistons)
but you would need a very long duration inlet cam (or very retarded cam timing) for a 1.0 piston + 2mm skim tho

 

[pork]

Aaaaahh, read that as chain tension will be maxed out (tight), not tensioner will be maxed out.

How would I achieve that, adjustable can sprockets?