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PollyMobiles Rebuild

OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
after a week in Brussels helping a family friend setting up a venue for a big party in the unbareably intense 37C humid heat wave sweeping across europe, it was such a relief to return back home at normal british temperatures :cool:

car meet at the cafe next day :D

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with Dave & Robyn

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later went to Redcar for food

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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
needed to secure these catch cans better than zip ties to stop them moving around

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welded on some mounting brackets

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welded the captive nuts on the backplate

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rounded off the sharp edge and stiffened the plate

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painted black for stealth :cool:

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added reflective insulation backing to help keep it cooler from the hot turbo

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much better looking and solid

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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
with the new catch cans in the way, I needed to reroute & replace the old sticky & rusted bonnet cable

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cut the retaining collar off the handle mount to release the outer cable

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inner cable is crimped to the handle so I'll have to figure a way of attaching the new cable on

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drilled a new cable hole and locked it at several points with screws

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trimmed a slot to clear the screws and reinstalled the cable

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remounted the bonnet release cable at a higher angle to clear the catch cans

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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
noticed the new steel catch cans at the front ain't condensing much and I suspect some of the flimsy old soft silicone hoses I used were kinking slightly at tight turns and restricting flow.

so I needed some reinforced but flexible hose like those found in conduit cables or washing machines or vacuum cleaners to maintain an open round shape for good flow.
alot of DIY places were selling a roll for £30+ :oops: but found em for £2 in wilko :D(y)

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the 20mm corrugated hose themselves were abit too big for the metal ports but figured of wedging the silicone hoses tight into the conduit ends which then fits snug onto the metal pipe ends :cool:

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now it looks so much neater

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went for a test drive and Yes! it's worked. condensing noticibly more oil vapour now :D
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
with the new catch cans in the way, I needed to reroute & replace the old sticky & rusted bonnet cable

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cut the retaining collar off the handle mount to release the outer cable

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inner cable is crimped to the handle so I'll have to figure a way of attaching the new cable on

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drilled a new cable hole and locked it at several points with screws

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trimmed a slot to clear the screws and reinstalled the cable

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remounted the bonnet release cable at a higher angle to clear the catch cans

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Very neat Paul :cool:.
Out of interest how are you planning to empty the catch cans?
had you thought of putting one of these....
Drain cock.jpg

or similar in the bottom of each can?
Instead of welding nuts onto sheet metal you really need to invest a few pounds on one of THESE kits.............
 

MicraPRO

Part Of The Furniture
Damn Paul! Finally had a catch up reading. I've missed loads, stay positive about your personal life we all have darker patches is how we learn from them that matters. Kasandra looks amazing an absolute testament to the man that built her! 😎
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Very neat Paul :cool:.
Out of interest how are you planning to empty the catch cans?
had you thought of putting one of these....

or similar in the bottom of each can?
Instead of welding nuts onto sheet metal you really need to invest a few pounds on one of THESE kits.............
at the moment I just remove the cans and pour into a measuring jug to accurately monitor how much it collects over time.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Damn Paul! Finally had a catch up reading. I've missed loads, stay positive about your personal life we all have darker patches is how we learn from them that matters. Kasandra looks amazing an absolute testament to the man that built her! 😎
Tom!! missed ya m8 :p
a ton has happened for the past year both personally & with kasandra, mostly positives :)
much better with help from pills and seem to have alot more luck this year.
you seen the recent video interviews bout her? ain't it just simply awesome :p
hope ur doing well too :)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Heya everyone, it's been awhile since my updates with lots happening :cool:

Adjustable Dump Valve

I've been reading that the springs in dump/BOV valves should normally be tuned to keep it closed during idle vacuum so it doesn't suck in unfiltered air but light enough to allow excess boost to vent out or when the manifold has alot of vacuum from closing throttle above idle.

tested the preload and the saab 9000 dump valve only holds about 10psi by itself (boost pressure on the vac line helps keep the valve shut during boost)

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cutting it open to see what can be made adjustable inside

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made this V-clamp to hold the case back together

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thinking what if I add an extra adjustable spring inside to push harder on the valve?

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the home made spring didn't hold up (needed a proper spring).

so what if I used pneumatic pressure to adjust the preload?
so I inserted a tyre valve

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machined a small piston

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assembled it to test but the plastic cylinder wasn't smooth enough and kept getting scratched & slowly leaking

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so I machined a smooth, solid & tight fitting aluminium lining & piston with lip & o-ring seals

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once again getting it to seal air tight but loose enough to allow the piston to move was difficult
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
at work by chance I found this spare free spring which was the same diameter but twice the free length and maybe stiffer?

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machined a threaded BOV casing so I can adjust how much the springs are squeezed

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the new spring might actually be softer with more coils there and the longer compressed height actually prevents the valve from fully opening, making it squirrel.

I'll need to buy a set of assorted spring rates soon

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to attached the outlet more securely & smoothly to the hose I machined this AN fitting onto the BOV

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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
my old trusty mini LED torch was getting abit sloppy loose so I decided to machine this beefy new enclosure to house the components solidly

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it works soo much better, looks good and durable :cool::)

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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
always struggled to see the joint line whenever I weld with my auto tint mask so I modified this LED light onto the MIG gun to light up the area

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helps with positioning but it ain't bright enough compared to the welding arc so still can't see much
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Helmholtz 1/4 Wavelength Exhaust Resonator

wanna do something about silencing this exhaust which has this annoying LOUD boomy resonance when cruising at 3000-3500rpm
I cut apart my old de-cat pipe

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welded a new decat and added this closed sleeve pipe over another pipe to let it slide along & tune like a trombone

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space is tight so I welded this 90deg elbow

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and welded it together like this

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quickly added this bicycle cable to manually move the sleeve pipe along the resonator pipe while cruising down the motorway to see if it actually changes the sound

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but nope no difference. maybe it needs a Helmholtz chamber at the end?
or the bend is too sharp & close to the main pipe?
or the turbo already absorbed most of the pulses and it's the powerflow back box that's booming inside the hollow interior?
more testing needed
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
good news personally,

my good car m8s Dave & Nigel who I often see at the weekly car meets and works at a motorfactor had invited me to help work there as a delivery driver which I was happy to do :D:cool:

after dave showing me around on the 1st day, I quickly got the hang of the processes, locations, driving the van.
apart from being exhausted driving around all day, min wage and lifting heavy brake discs, hubs, water pumps etc I'm enjoying it :):D(y)

exhaust hiccuping probably from dirty injectors so trying out this redex a m8 suggested

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at work brought a few service bits at m8s rates for kasandra :D
trying out this lucas engine oil stabliser it's soo thick like treacle, hope it helps reduce the burning oil past the rings.

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the rubber lid seal on the catchcans were badly warping / curling up from the vapours so I made some card seals

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SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
When welding now I used a LED work light shining on the area I am welding. This helps me see what I am working on with the self dimming visor in place, obviously when actually welding it doesn't make any difference but it really helps with getting the weld started in the right place. Very useful when working under a car, which I have done plenty of recently on the Micra seam welding almost any seam I can find under the car....
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
When welding now I used a LED work light shining on the area I am welding. This helps me see what I am working on with the self dimming visor in place, obviously when actually welding it doesn't make any difference but it really helps with getting the weld started in the right place. Very useful when working under a car, which I have done plenty of recently on the Micra seam welding almost any seam I can find under the car....
that's the issue I'm having.
before welding, I can see the path
when I start welding and it tints, I see nothing but the hot molton pool
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
well this bloomin sucks aass.

at the motorfactor shop I work as a driver & stock control 9:30 - 5:30 mon-fri,
paid minimum wage cash-in-hand on the friday 1 week behind,
no contracts signed,
BUTTT he said for the first 12months, staff are not given any holidays!
what the flying faap!? working full time for pennies with no rests till it kills me again? I thought I left this sort of dodgy employment terms behind me? is this even legal?

so I don't get any days off to spend with a potential lady friend this summer? :cry: this is bollucks. I'm gonna have to move my aass and get a proper paying job with proper legal holidays etc. I'm sick of being a cheap slave again :rolleyes:
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Totally not legal (I work in management employing people), there are legal rights for employees and holidays. Also get a contract signed or they can drop you in a second. They are dodgy....
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Totally not legal (I work in management employing people), there are legal rights for employees and holidays. Also get a contract signed or they can drop you in a second. They are dodgy....
think I need to visit citizens advice bureau to see what my rights are, where I stand, what the legalities are cos nothing's been signed. just verbal agreement. he also asked for my last P45 for some reason and we're gonna visit the accountant tomorrow. dunno if this is about setting up the payment details or about employment contract?

if I'm just helping out at work with no written contract and paid cash but doing similar level of work as the other employees did who are on a contracted payroll, am I a freelancer or temp worker? dunno the correct term
 

LiamC

I've ruined my car 🙁
well this bloomin sucks aass.

at the motorfactor shop I work as a driver & stock control 9:30 - 5:30 mon-fri,
paid minimum wage cash-in-hand on the friday 1 week behind,
no contracts signed,
BUTTT he said for the first 12months, staff are not given any holidays!
what the flying faap!? working full time for pennies with no rests till it kills me again? I thought I left this sort of dodgy employment terms behind me? is this even legal?

so I don't get any days off to spend with a potential lady friend this summer? :cry: this is bollucks. I'm gonna have to move my aass and get a proper paying job with proper legal holidays etc. I'm sick of being a cheap slave again :rolleyes:
Where I work over summers when I'm not in college, I get what works out as a day off for every 3 full weeks worked, which is the minimum here in Ireland

Sent from my FIG-LX1 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok I cleared things up bout the holidays.

the shop manager guy who interviewed and told me I had zero holidays for first 12mths was talking out of his orifice abit :p:cautious::unsure:
when he was off the other day, I discussed the issue with both my colleagues & finally our old accountant guy who does all the paperwork & knows the legal stuff.

basically my work m8s are on the same non-written/signed contract as me and have the normal 28d holidays, so for the manager guy to state zero holidays throughout a full 1st year is odd, incorrect and if true would be illegal.

but the full answer is that yes new employees start off day1 with zero entitled holidays but we earn our holidays as we work @ 2.3 holidays per month (therefore 28d statutory annual leave).

so after working here for a month I'll be allowed upto 2 days off, enough to take either a fri or mon off to spend long weekend with my new friend :cool:
can't take fri's off yet cos we're short staffed so I'll have to chat with colleagues & see if he could cover me to take 1 fri off in few months time.
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
old plugs were getting abit crusty & worn, especially #3

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fresh shiny & gapped plugs

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replaced the fuel filter

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recent filter now appears much cleaner after replacing the rusted filler pipe few months ago

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replacing the parents pug 307 absolutely filthy blocked pollen filter

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my clutch cable was now getting more sticky, more frequently.
so I purchased a new cable at work

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comparing old & new cable. new one has a slightly longer outer cable but shorter inner. so the adjustment range will be abit more snug

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and wow what a difference some fresh slippery cable lining makes. it slides soo smoothly with no sticky binding at all :D

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straight to the Cafe meet after finishing work @ 6pm.
Peters Passat had blown it's boost pipe off so I helped him reclamp it

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me & Frankie sharing our big girthy tail pipes and then I took her for a ride in kasandra :cool: she likes it :p

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OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the temporary plastic gear selector bushings I machined few months ago are getting abit sloppy when cold and squeaky tight when warmed up by exhaust so it's time to machine a proper replacement.

clamped two short perpendicular pipes on the vice for welding, each inserted with a thick pipe inside to prevent the vice from crushing it oval and also as a headsoak so I don't blow holes

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machined the bores round & smooth

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machined a precise fitting steel inner bushing so it's just tight enough with no play but still loose enough to rotate freely and won't wear out quickly.
the o-rings on both ends keeps the grease inside the bushes away from the outside elements and also cusions against vibrations

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I didn't have any solid round bar large enough to make the 20mm x 8mm inner bush so I machined some plastic bar to fill in the bolt hole gap

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finished joint for the selector rod

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wow the gear stick now feels both precise and silky smooth :cool: perfect
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
At Dyno Remaps with Cleveland Car Scene club

had a car meet at a local dyno shop in stockton, be interesting to see how kasandra performs nowadays

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the results between her early 2011 setup and todays is interesting :cool:

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so the current refined setup with a fresher turbo, engine, neater plumbing, cooler intake and de-cat, the low-end is dramatically improved with torque coming really early and over a lot more range from 3.5k - 5k, even though it's the same spec turbo?
but after 5k it begins to lose steam?

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here's a look at how the turbo used to run with standard cast Alu pistons v/s stronger low-comp forged pistons. Ed could extract more juice out of the forged setup probably cos of reduced pre-detonation.

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the 10yr old PAS has been whining slightly for awhile and I always have to blip the throttle whenever I'm stationary before I can turn it full lock.
so with fresh PAS oil I removed the pump to inspect if it could be worn

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also thought of machining this pulley a smaller radius to spin faster so I don't have to blip it during idle to turn the steering BUT I couldn't figure out how on earth I remove it?
the allen fastener is truely seized, the petruding cylinder doesn't loosen, I even tried grinding it down to the fastener but still appears solid? meh left it alone

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this is the high pressure side with sprung regulator

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the vane pump inside is similar to the oil pump

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not much wear other than little pitting near the port openings that the vanes slide over. cleaned & reassembled back

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filled with fresh oil, bled the system, drove out to test and wow just by changing the oil it now operates so quiet and provides so much better assistance even at idle :cool:
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the old crossmember is crumbling with holes so it's time to get this new front panel and finally straighten up her wonky front face for the 1st time :D:cool:

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this panel even featured all the required tow eye bolt threads which the old one didn't have and various bolts included

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gonna be alot of work prepping this panel before I even begin.
including straightening all the bent bits during transit, extra seam welding a few weak places, welding up all the un-used open holes, cutting sections to clear the IC plumbing, stripping off paint where it's gonna be welded, undercoat the whole panel, etc etc
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Yay! shiny stainless exhaust resonator arrived :D:D:love:
it's 2.25" pipe x 4" diameter x 22" long

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interesting to note that they expand the ends of the perferated tube to wedge/lock it against the casing and it's filled with I presume stainless wool

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amusing that it's the same size as my powerflow tip :LOL:

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removed the mid-pipe & decat and deleted the 1/4 wavelength resonator tube I made

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cut & welded the new resonator onto the mid-pipe

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reinstalled

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so the test drive verdict is that I think it slightly muffles the mid-high freq from the tail pipe and the rear end is no longer as boomy bass-y as the front but the very low freq during idle is more noticable and now most of the deafening noise is actually through the bulkhead and ridiculous tyre roar from the bare footwell/arches.

so sound insulation & better tyres are to come
 
OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
so this is where I work and the corsa diesel van I drive

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organising all the warehouse stock while also researching into which lower arm I could modify to safely reposition the front wheels 10mm further outwards to stop it rubbing at full lock and allow more camber :cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Toyos are running abit thin and begining to struggle, time for the last swap front - rear

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front tyres close to min, very unusual wear on the front right tyres inner shoulder? maybe from repeatedly rubbing the chassis during full right lock?

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rear's still healthy and swapped to the front

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
sister was replacing her carpets so I grabbed the underfloor insulation she was gonna chuck away so I can insulate the micra again.
I first made a piece for the boot floor

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visited another car guy over the weekend and we had such an awesome long chat till it was late & dark :cool:

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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this silly remote boot release cable mechanism where the little finger near the hook loop flicks the tab under the boot lock to release tends to stick / jam / seize which was annoying :cautious:

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so decided to reroute the old cable up through the boot lid alongside the boot wiring loom and connect it directly to the lock

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trimmed this block off the cable which used to open the fuel cap and joined both outer cables so it has full length of travel

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connected the release cable to where the key barrel used to work and now it opens more reliably :)

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sunday car meet near transporter bridge :cool:

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Low Rider

Poindexter
Moderator
Club Member
the old crossmember is crumbling with holes so it's time to get this new front panel and finally straighten up her wonky front face for the 1st time :D:cool:

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this panel even featured all the required tow eye bolt threads which the old one didn't have and various bolts included

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gonna be alot of work prepping this panel before I even begin.
including straightening all the bent bits during transit, extra seam welding a few weak places, welding up all the un-used open holes, cutting sections to clear the IC plumbing, stripping off paint where it's gonna be welded, undercoat the whole panel, etc etc
Genuine Nissan or knock-off? If it's the latter, DON'T jack it up using the front jacking point or you'll turn it into a banana without additional reinforcement.
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
Genuine Nissan or knock-off? If it's the latter, DON'T jack it up using the front jacking point or you'll turn it into a banana without additional reinforcement.
Reinforce it before fitting it. I did that to ours, and it has been an ace front sump guard mount. Has taken huge forces over the years on WRGB.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Genuine Nissan or knock-off? If it's the latter, DON'T jack it up using the front jacking point or you'll turn it into a banana without additional reinforcement.
most likely a copy part at £34 from ebay. hehe I'd never jack up from the middle of the crossmember whether it's genuine or not cos it's such a weak point in the front structure for supporting the car imo, especially if the crossmember's made of paper thin steel.
 
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