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PollyMobiles Rebuild

Genuine Nissan or knock-off? If it's the latter, DON'T jack it up using the front jacking point or you'll turn it into a banana without additional reinforcement.
i got the Taiwan after market one and not had any problems jacking it up ,it's kinda thin but about the same as the original ,even welded ok with a arc welder when the mig broke, and surprised it held up without rusting it wasn't really sealed or painted except the welded.bits
 
sister was replacing her carpets so I grabbed the underfloor insulation she was gonna chuck away so I can insulate the micra again.
I first made a piece for the boot floor

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those stick on sound deadening packs seems to work, I've got 10 I think on atm ,rear wheel well, n/s.inner.arch , rear quarter panels, inner sill, and some on the main floor and the car seems more.quiet, except the exhaust lol, but the road and rattles seem less , as originally I had some sound deadening cloth in the boot and 3 pieces of the stick on does the same / better?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
those stick on sound deadening packs seems to work, I've got 10 I think on atm ,rear wheel well, n/s.inner.arch , rear quarter panels, inner sill, and some on the main floor and the car seems more.quiet, except the exhaust lol, but the road and rattles seem less , as originally I had some sound deadening cloth in the boot and 3 pieces of the stick on does the same / better?
Think I'll have to remove the dash to muffle the bulkhead where most of the noise comes from

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
... Have another recommended spot? I've already bent my sills a bit :oops:
the front floor rails, and put the axle stands under the rear wishbone mounts, under the rear coils of the rear axle or can jack on the towing eye, then axle stands in front of the trailing arms on the chassis legs , check your crewmember first cause of its rotten or or damaged, they can bend lol
 

SuperUno

Buy & Sell Member
how'd you recommend I reinforce it?
weld a few angled truss ribs inside the box section?
Maybe over kill on a non rally car. I used angle iron on the front faces and then flat iron to make a 'box' around the three faces of the box. Can get some pics at some point if you want. That then is braced to the chassis rails. It is the sump guard mount so is prone to a lot of force and abuse. But will very easily take whole weight of car on it.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
... Have another recommended spot? I've already bent my sills a bit :oops:
as Jack mentioned above, I use my trolley jack under the lower control arm rear bushing and the rear axle beam and then place the axle stands on the front floor rails and in front of the lower trailing arm mount or on the axle beam
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Maybe over kill on a non rally car. I used angle iron on the front faces and then flat iron to make a 'box' around the three faces of the box. Can get some pics at some point if you want. That then is braced to the chassis rails. It is the sump guard mount so is prone to a lot of force and abuse. But will very easily take whole weight of car on it.
yeah sounds like a ton of overkill for her :D
think I'll leave it cos I'll never jack up from that point anyway and its extra work :p
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
at work I measured a few concentric clutch slave cylinders to see if they'll fit my CG13 gearbox.

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item #510 0225 10 fits over the 27mm diameter input shaft coller but the diaphram facing collar is abit too large.
but all of them are simply too long at 57-63mm compared to the 34mm long release bearing / input shaft collar.

the other easier more reliable option is the traditional external slave cylinder operating the clutch arm.
coupled with a remote master cylinder this seems to be the best way to 'test trial' if a hydraulic clutch suits the setup and can easily revert back to cable.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
with a big spare roll of foam carpet underlay ready and afew sheets of rubber floor mats, lets begin stripping out the interior to prep & install the insulation

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spotting a few little rust spots around the fan inlet, bulkhead rain channel

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wondering whats inside this dimple cover?
ooh the angled foot well is hollow and allows access to the sway bar / rear bushing captive nuts

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wirebrushing the rear floor pan and damn, more rust holes to fix

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bent a new plates

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tacked

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welded

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welded the boot hole

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hammerite & painted

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now I can finally begin laying the insulation tomorrow :cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
interior stripped bare, the roof & floor panels resonate so much like a biscuit tin

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the roof panel was barely attached to the cross beams with afew tiny dabs of sealant. fill the big gaps with sealant to reduce any panel movement

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begin lining the rear arches with foam carpet underlay using spray contact adhesive. it's relatively easy to fit with the foam being quite stretchy & flexible to mould around the curves

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painted it black & stuck some on the roof

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the whole rear end is now insulated, looks cosy :D

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insulated the front of the roof

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
assembled the dash

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assembled the rear end and applied the rear floor mats

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painted the parcel shelf black :cool:

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interior all finished, insulated, painted black and looking awesome :cool::)

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went for a test drive and Wow! what a huge difference :eek:

at idle the cabin is nicely muffled from the clicking engine bay and there's just the very low freq purr of the exhaust.

at low speed it's very luxuriously quiet, the clicky injectors and turbo spool up below 0psi are barely audiable, you just get this surge of torque.
once I accelerate with higher boost, then the spooling noise comes up but still very smoothly muffled with non of that clicky diesel sound of the injectors and the exhaust ain't as boomy loud any more.

and now when cruising along motorway, especially on that insanely loud rippling carriageway to work, that deafening tyre roar is halved and exhaust no longer drones / boom / resonate inside the cabin. it's soo comfy I can actually hear my stereo, hear my voice without screaming, no longer need to wear ear plugs :love::cool:

wish I did this so many yrs ago
 
Wow! Just read your whole blog it's taken me over a year haha well worth it tho truly amazing work really inspiring :) only started reading it to see what gains could be achieved from fitting nistune but now I'm definitely fitting a turbo in the near future!

Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Wow! Just read your whole blog it's taken me over a year haha well worth it tho truly amazing work really inspiring :) only started reading it to see what gains could be achieved from fitting nistune but now I'm definitely fitting a turbo in the near future!

Sent from my SM-G901F using Tapatalk
:) thanks m8
glad the lengthy blog helped ya
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
briefly visited Jamie from 'LetsTorqueCars' to check out his recent micra purchase & to film more short videos

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he brought this 1996 1L 5dr Shape as a daily runner and it's in fantastic state, only done 56k and paid just £550 :D

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we videoed the car doing a few cheeky launches :p

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
with the video shoot & car meet out the way, it's time to replace that rusted front end before her MOT in Oct.
began stripping the front off

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to my shock, it turns out that the old botched front panel wasn't even fully welded on!
it was only attached with a few bolts, pop rivets and little poop tack welds :eek:

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removed the rotten old front panel :poop:

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now you can see the turbo setup and the state of the chassis legs

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so this is where the past owner had smashed the left side

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test fitted the new panel but something's odd

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the sides don't meet

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when I bolt up one side, the other side is really misaligned

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noticed the panel is assembled unevenly

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chopped it into pieces to align the seperate bolt holes before it's welded back together

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things getting abit serious when I use the rotary laser level to measure where exactly it's deformed wonky

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so it turns out the reason for kasandras wonky bumper is cos the past impact had bent the LH chassis leg down by 3mm and the weak LH bumper mount by 10mm!

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notice the RH bumper mount is square & reinforced inside whereas the LH mount is just an open square section easily skewed downwards

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straightened up & reinforced the LH mount

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this headlight stud broke off

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made a permenant metal bracket

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wasn't happy with the way this new cheap panel was slightly wonky-jigged so I drilled it all apart

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so now I can easily tweak the positions of everything till all the gaps are equal before I weld it back into place :cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I'll need to tweak the bonnet struts which are touching the chassis and affecting how far the bonnet closes

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undercoated & painted the new panel & chassis

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repaired this damaged section

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also repaired this old thin mangled top corner

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fitted the front end to make sure all the gaps are equal

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tacked & welded into place

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LH section

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RH section

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grinded the welds flat and painted

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welded these tabs to hold the wings solid from the headlights

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yayy for the 1st time she has a nice level head

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soo exhausted but I'm at the final stages of putting it all back together, fix the downpipe, before it's due MOT on friday :cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
got it back together in running form,
left out the catch cans & shield panel cos that needed tweaking to fit and I really wanted to test drive her,
bonnet latch is 10mm wayyy too high and needs yet more adjustments.

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aligned the headlights, went for a night drive, boy I missed her

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soo much more to finish but she's almost ready for MOT on friday :cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
bonnet latch was sitting wayy too high making the bonnet stick up by 10-15mm

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discovered this top section for the latch was right-angled too steep & high

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angled it down 45deg with a few sweet hammer blows and it fits back :cool:

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front end assembled

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ooh yeah looking spot on shweet parked at work :cool::cool:

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
beginning to suffer from the common old brittle expansion tank :rolleyes:

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with her MOT tomorrow, thought it's time to replace her rusty old downpipe flexi-pipe. how hard can that be?

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top section of all the stainless strands have broken apart from the constant flexing

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chopped & prepped the new section

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welded

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but a simple 2hr job actually ended up as a frustrating 6hr PITA cos the flange was off-angle by 1-2deg so had to mark / cut / reweld several times before I ended up welding it in-situ with pigeon poop at desperate times :(

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fingers crossed at her MOT

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she passed! barely :D
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ah shiiyte
bad news tonight. was just leaving town heading towards a local Kuruma UK car meet, boosting uphill to overtake when suddenly a loud crunching noise, some metallic bits falling down the car (I feared for bent rods etc), lurching with loss of power & misfiring, bright oil light! :eek: lots of smoke and really bad sound of knocking bottom end :poop:

pulled over asap in a cloud of smoke with the familiar sound of silence and dash lights and thinking Oh Fcuk what now?

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she quickly drained all her oil down her pants :confused:

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called up Greenflag to recover her back home. my Odyssey gel battery is rubbish with lights, it barely lasts long enough with hazards till the recovery came, had to keep it going with the emergency lithium jump starter pack.
dad soon came in the peugeot to provide lighting.
and the angel friend Kim arrived with the ohh soo essential cuppa tea :D:coffee:

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nice lad Wayne helped get her home 3 miles away & home sweet home :cool:

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soon see what the damage to my wallet will be tomorrow :rolleyes::unsure::confused:
 
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