tried to machine this large dia long pipe on the lathe but will have to wait another day cos I'll need to buy an overhang support to stop it popping off the chuck
Hi I have a hilix clutch what pp did you usefitted flywheel
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centre clutch on PP
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fit onto flywheel
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test fit gearbox & starter
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to make sure nothing fouls the clutch
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aye the back of the chassis is pretty much as floppy as chocolate pudding sponge but my aim is to make a removable bolt-on frame that helps stiffen that rear structure abit only for trackdays and then during normal use I just pop it off to retain the interior space and easy to store away.If you are that worried about shell flex, then get a proper cage in it. You will be amazed how much flex is going on that you don't notice now. Plus it will make the car safer...
thanks, it's a good conpromise between having a stiffer, lighter, impractical & noisier rear end on trackdays and then easily swapped back to a practical, quieter setup when used daily.Loving the removable X brace Paul! I'm quite surprised how much chassis flex there is in a 5 door!
I may have to look into making something like this for my K10 as i'm sure it has less rigid chassis than the K11. You can feel the whole car flex if you go over a speed bump at a funny angle!
although MIG is easier to start, the weld appearance ain't very consistant near it's max setting as the head clogs up.i know you prefer your mig but have you tried stainless steel arc rods paul ? the welds are 10 x neater than mild steel arc rods
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Parweld-XR916H-Autodarkening-Welding-Helmet/dp/B00GJX0BAQnotched the final top tube
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welded it up. ain't half bad.
seriously need a less-tinted welding mask cos I really can't see where to weld, so I can't weld continuously and have to pause alot which results in ugly pigeon poop that annoys me
my usual preferred method is pulse welding which helps keep the weld looking consistant and controls heat but I found at the machines maximum setting, the molton globs tend to clog up the MIG gun badly and frequently jams it. and then the porous weld bubbles up while cooling due to lack of gas, so had to grind and reweld.
need alot more practice imho
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to test how much the chassis twists without the brace, I opened all the doors, left the boot open marked with masking tape and jacked up one wheel
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without bracing, the boot has skewed over by 7mm!
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bolted the X-brace in, it's a snug fit to get all the bolts lined up
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jacked the corner up and oh gawd, it's barely moved 1mm. proof it works
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comparing weight, all this rear seat & shelf weighs a hefty 22.7kg
while the X-frame only weighs 7.1kg
a reduction of 15.6kg for a stiff chassis!
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took it for a drive, dunno if it's a placebo effect but she feels nippier and tighter.
the delay between steering input and feeling the weight shift definately seems sharper and the rear end is feeling abit more loose on these cold old T1R tyres.
road noise is definately louder, exhaust is boomier and stereo is pointless, so will need to wear ear plugs with this layout.
give it some paint tomorrow
thx for the recommendationhttps://www.amazon.co.uk/Parweld-XR916H-Autodarkening-Welding-Helmet/dp/B00GJX0BAQ
Hands down my best purchase. This made my welding a million times better.
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