Radio Code Guru
That's bad news Paul, looks expensive! Hope you have a spare engine for a rebuild..................
Nope no spare block hereThat's bad news Paul, looks expensive! Hope you have a spare engine for a rebuild..................
I sure hope it ain't the expensive bottom end. The block or sump or oil patch doesn't seem to show any damage, yetBad news that Paul. Might have dropped a rod eh. I'm sure you'll sort it all out over the coming days and it'll be better than before.
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From your description of the train of events Paul I can't see your 'best case scenario' being plausible .
The oil in the bell housing is likely from the crank oil seal which probably distorted when the rod was about to let go ........Hi been soo busy & tired with work & stripping down this engine but here's my findings...
looking under the soaked bay for where all the oil is coming from, the first clue is this bracing bar bolt hanging loose?
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this is all the engine oil that remains
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gearbox drain with the usual amount of debris
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began stripping the bay to investigate further
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and oh no, seeing part of the sump exposed is not what ya wanna see
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turbo removed for a better view
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ohh #### cylinder #3 has clearly thrown a rod
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removed the engine
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clutch is fine, only an oily bell housing
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the oil gallery bung plug is still there but looking further back, holy crap there's an even bigger problem with a chunk punched out including the oil gallery!
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oil filter internals seem fine with only tiny bits of metal from the disaster
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clutch is in good condition with plenty of life. just one of the plate springs is slightly loose rattling about
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back of engine is oil stained but dunno where it's all coming from tbh. that big oil gallery plug ain't leaking
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something to look into at a later dateBack in the dim distant past (50 years ago!) when I built my half race 850cc Mini engine, I had the con rods shot peened and polished and the rods, crank pistons and flywheel all dynamically balanced. The rods had pinch bolt small ends and the gudgeon pins rotated in the pistons with no small end bearings but the engine revved comfortably to 8000 rpm, though I decided that 7500 was safer so red lined it there. Not sure where you would go to have the internals treated the same way these days, but with long term reliability in mind perhaps this would be a way to go?
yeah an unexpected send off with a bang!Well that went properly!
Sorry to see it, what are your next steps? It's horrid when engines go like this, been there this time last year....
Plate diff's always wear out, so rebuilding will always be part of the maintenance plan, the threadlock you use on the diff will need to be special 'oil proof' stuff, normal stuff is not designed for immersion in oil...
aww thanks for the kind comments m8Hard lines mate.
#### happens and life goes on though hey, you've pulled your finger out, got on with it like a boss and assessed the damage, good attitude.
On a side note, what a good mate you are- just had your engine throw a rod, clearly spent some time stripping down etc and still sorted your mates steering wheel out- more people needed like you man.
Good luck with it.
not much point in buying both a 1.0L + 1.3L to transplant 1.3 crank/rod into the 1L block when there's already a whole 1.3L in the 1st place?Sounds like a good plan, time to find a 1.3 auto which has failed its MOT...
Though they are rare, could you use a 1.0 auto and transfer the crank and rods etc.. from a normal 1.3? TBH I would just use a good condition 1.3 engine regardless of it being auto, the engine condition being more important than the auto part...
plus it leans the wheel more into the corner when turning, which may help improve contact patch as the tyres flex and stop it rapidly shredding the tyres outer shoulder on trackAnother reason to fit the Whiteline castor/traction kit Paul. You can increase the castor which provides significantly better turn-in and steering response over stock.
I'm waiting for a guy down suffolk who's trying to find a suitable pallet for delivering a 1.3 auto engine.You seem to be spending a lot of time and money on not getting the engine fixed Paul....... ( or are parts in transit?)
nice info, cheers DaveI used Lodexol once and from that moment on I never used it again as it simply never performed well when I had a Gripper LSD.
I always used 75w90 GL4, (which is what my Nissan manual recommended). I would then tune the response with Redline friction modifier, which worked a treat for me.
I used Redline MT90 on my last fill with the Suretrac. I only ever used ATF in a standard daily to try to up the MPG a little. I'm not sure, for me at least, ATF would fair well with me stuffing up to ~230lb/ft into the transmission.Matt H recommended ATF Oil for our rally gearbox with the Suretrac LSD, and 4.92 semi-helical final drive. Cheap enough.
ZR with Quaife LSD uses expensive (£9 a litre) Castrol Racing Gear Oil