Need a little clarification

L

lucasmax

Right here goes, i used to have one of those k&n cone filters and life was peachy :) nice noise, nice everything...untill recently. You see i was advised by my mot man, to take the cone filter off for the mot. Which i did in june just before i went to america. Anyway i drove to and back from hull.150ish miles from my house and my car has developed a problem. High and variating revs. Im assuming it can be a few things. The idle valve, maf sensor or the throttle body. Am i right?

If so how do i go about fixing the problem?
 
I have a similar problem at the moment.

When I've driven a while and the cars warmed up, the cars idle becomes very high around 2rmp. When I switch the off for a minute then on again goes back to normal for a few mins until I stop again and realise the idles back on two, and stays there.

There's no effect on performance or any kangerooing juddering etc. I noticed that when I take off the front connector on the tb (forgot what it's for but the big brown one above fuel rail) the idle drops to below 1rmp.

Does that sound anything like your problem?
 
Sort of. There is slight cangerooing but nothin too bad. It first started when a had the cone filter on but av put the standard one on now an its still There not too much of a problem,just annoying more thAn anythin else.
 
ive been told the idle control valve could get stiky so worth removing cleaning
if you disconect and see how he drives
 
i had this a while ago whilst messing with a dumpvalve and intercooler (dont ask). the revs kept building up to about 5000rpm and i was like WTF so just put everything back to how it was and it still happened. anyway managed to get it onto the main road embarrassingly and gave it a good thrashing and then it was fine :laugh:
 
lucasmax said:
Umm hos do u go about removing the idle valve?
Click to expand...

the plug at the front of the throttler body(idle cont valve is chunky and grey color)brown 5 pin connecter plug
and two philips (star)screws hold it on-but you have to use a socket set with the star screw fitted-its very tight and easy to mashup the screw top
i cleaned my throttle bodie and idle valve with carb cleaner hellhoards(halfards) one
and my prob still persists-----under 2000rpm slight kangaroolin in all gears even when lifting off throttle
i have yet to test my coolant temp sensor,soon do that but in the mean time i have disconected the throttle idle control valve and have very smooth revs all the way through especialy when im croozing in 5th at 1500rpm
doooin 40mph (i have a 1 litre box)
 
and dont trap the O ring when you refit the valve :eek:
lucasmax, did you refit the vacuum pipes when you replaced the stock filter after removing the cone filter ?
 
Had the same problem, 2000rpm idle when driving it hard and stop at a junction, but after driving it really soft for a bit it got a nice 650rpm idle. Not a constant problem, and on the last weeks it didnt happened again...
 
This has been like this for A while now. Not gettin any better. Its not the kangeroo'in that bothers me. Its the higj and fluctuating revs :/
 
R-REG-SR said:
the plug at the front of the throttler body(idle cont valve is chunky and grey color)brown 5 pin connecter plug
and two philips (star)screws hold it on-but you have to use a socket set with the star screw fitted-its very tight and easy to mashup the screw top
i cleaned my throttle bodie and idle valve with carb cleaner hellhoards(halfards) one
and my prob still persists-----under 2000rpm slight kangaroolin in all gears even when lifting off throttle
i have yet to test my coolant temp sensor,soon do that but in the mean time i have disconected the throttle idle control valve and have very smooth revs all the way through especialy when im croozing in 5th at 1500rpm
doooin 40mph (i have a 1 litre box)
Click to expand...

sorry 1500rpm = 30 mph 1 litre box
just above 2000rpm = 40mph
 
lucasmax said:
This has been like this for A while now. Not gettin any better. Its not the kangeroo'in that bothers me. Its the higj and fluctuating revs :/
Click to expand...

how does he feel after driving hard for a while -motorway-
supose you could drive it till the prob gets more worse then diagnose?
 
baguete said:
Had the same problem, 2000rpm idle when driving it hard and stop at a junction, but after driving it really soft for a bit it got a nice 650rpm idle. Not a constant problem, and on the last weeks it didnt happened again...
Click to expand...

that didnt help you did it??
 
Well i drove it to hull and back last weekend. The kangerooing was almost non existant. I think that the kangerooing may be due to the fact that i think my gearbox needs some more oil in it as 1st and rev are quite hard to selcect. Anywho after doing the almost legal 75 most of the way i came to rest at a service station and the revs where really high. I thought nothing of it, but after a good hour ir so and a very profitable time on the fruit machines in the servive station i got under way again the revs where all over the place untill i got into 5th (about 60ish)
 
i just done a service on a throttle body that was behaving similarly
all conecters cleaned checked
wire mesh removed for deeper cleaning,carb cleaner--replaced mesh after cleaning if you want--let dry
clean out idler valve--carb cleaner-let dry
cut open silicone for side entrance to solder tracks
added wires to bridge the solder points-instead of just resoldering--house hold plug wires
set throttle position sensor range--resistance,middle and front pin.around 0.5ohms closed position,around4.2ohm open throttle
then tighten sensor back
have you cheked the coolant/gauge temp sensors for tolerances?
 
Right the idle valve was fine apparently. Took it to the garage an he took it off and cleaned it up. Refitted it and the revs are still fluctuating:( he also said the throttle body looks sound so he had No idea what the problem was.


Also noticed fast knocking noise when im on full lock turning right. Driveshaft or wheel bearing me thinks :/
 
when my engines warm and i unplug the IAV, all that happens is during cranking the engine just gradually speeds up to the idle at 1000rpm and stays there cos the valve is resting at its normal inactive 1/4 opening.

normally the IAV opens fully during cranking so the engine briefly revs to 1500rpm, settles to 1000rpm and than the valve closes fully afew secs later to lower to 700rpm
 
disconect one plug of the throttle boddie at atime to test
throttle position sensor---disconnect and start warm up car--see how he run--then reconnect
mass air flow----disconnect and run car , should already be warm by now--see how he run--then reconnect after test
IAV-idle control-----disconnect plug test revs--see how he run--reconnect
this should rule out throttle body (maybe) and let you move on to the next componants to test
 
Right did what you said. Started with the grey plug on the throttle body, to the left. Unplugged it. No effect. Moved onto the brown plug. Dissconected it flucuation stopped but revs got steadly higher. Then dissconnected the idle valve.qgain had no effect:(
 
you probably need to set the base idle as explained in haynes, because mine used to have this fault sometimes and that was with no idle control valve fitted at all and while running on gas (so i doubt if its anything to do with the i/c/v)
i think its the ecu trying to set the parameters but cant do it till the base idle is set (and it gets stuck in a loop)
 
Which ones the tps? And how far do i screw the allen key bolt thingy?

Another point, what could have caused it to do this? Anything in perticular?
 
lucasmax said:
Which ones the tps? And how far do i screw the allen key bolt thingy?

Another point, what could have caused it to do this? Anything in perticular?
Click to expand...

throttle position sensor, (not the maf or i/c/v) and the plastic screw is a big fat needle (so inwards slows the airflow = slower, and outwards lets more air in = faster)
 
lucasmax said:
Which ones the tps? And how far do i screw the allen key bolt thingy?

Another point, what could have caused it to do this? Anything in perticular?
Click to expand...

throttle position sensor, (not the maf or i/c/v) and the plastic screw is a big fat needle (so inwards slows the airflow = slower, and outwards lets more air in = faster)
 
Right new symptom now after a long drive, like really long my car decideds to keeps the revs at the amount needed to go 25 in 2nd and increase them. I can actually plonk it, with some force, into 1st and it will accellerate enough for me to shift to 2nd and get to around 20ish mph. Ovb not a problem, except at traffic lights. Oh and it kangeroos now all the time in 1st when i lift off the clutch :(
 

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