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March g# turbo build.

I want PPPPSSHHH. I will try both and see whats better.

Getting everything from demon tweeks as i got a 10% discount code. also so I can buy it all finance.

its a compromise between "all showing off PSHH and no go" or highest performance.

Dump valves something to budget on or buy pricy? Found a cheapy £50 bov on ebay vented as well.

I used a stock recirc valve off a saab 9000. its cheap, recirculates for max performance, and does the job.
some ppl can spend their valuable money on just shiny expensive bling of the same thing but that just depends on the individuals aim & focus (shiny stuff vs fast stuff)
 
Thats near enough what I saw.

Found a forge recirculating valve for £120 and some forge adjusting springs £20. I dont want a half arsed build if recirculating is better I will go for that.

yikes thats £££ for just a pressure relief valve. the adjustability allows u to have enough spring load to withstand the maximum boost pressure but light enough to respond quickly to reduce boost surge but tbh the little advantage they offer for running small boost on these engines for THAT price ain't worth it.
my used scrappy Saab BOV was just a tenner I think and does the job of maintaining 10psi and releasing when the throttle's closed.
 
mine,s just a £5 diesel recirc valve, working as a bov/venting to air :)

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I got alot of turbo parts lying around as my brother owns an FD rx7 so parts I already got, turbo timer (not really needed) rx7 aftermarket intercooler should just it, rx7 bov and boost pipe/tubing.

Rx7 bov.

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Something happened to the boot lid and the grille?....And the dash pod?

Does it have the import rear light clusters?
 
Ya IRNBROO's old car I have all his parts.

His was tricky, he wasn't 100% it was a g# he never had mid spoiler or dahspod iirc and it was VERY VERY early

Had k10 hubs ect

Ill ask him and find out :p
 
Yeah its got import rear light cluster, jap writing everywhere, plastic lights, plastic rocker, jap stlye airbox, aircon. This is very early its 1993.
The front bumper is damaged so might be a new grille. I dont think all jap k11s had dash pods as well.

its got an import vin on it and even the flare holder, also the spare wheel is plastered in jap writing.
 
Minus above parts

Looks like a super s and a 1.3 slx

Its minus all the g# goodies hence people's doubt
Got a g# front and rear bumper and mud flaps though.. also intierior. On another note who cares what it is as its going to be turboed!!

Heres the intercooler. 310mm high, 350 wide. About 60mm deep. Should just fit with some cutting....
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Ya IRNBROO's old car I have all his parts.

His was tricky, he wasn't 100% it was a g# he never had mid spoiler or dahspod iirc and it was VERY VERY early

Had k10 hubs ect

Ill ask him and find out :p
mate you got the hubcaps from his wheels as i have lost one?
 
Also found some corsa b coilovers at local scrappy for £60 I know the fronts fit but the rears fit as well right?
 
With the stupid amounts that people are prepared to pay for "rare jdm" items such as dashpods it may just have been sold

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Anyone use a ct9 (starlet turbo) on a K11? Thinking it will bring costs down even more but its a small turbo.
Either td04 or ct9. What do you guys think? @frank @pollyp
 
i did a CT9 mani for a member last year mas (i forget his name tho :rolleyes:) very nice tubby, about the same size as my current GTO TD04, the combined oilfeed and drain pipe is a bit oddball tho
 
i did a CT9 mani for a member last year mas (i forget his name tho :rolleyes:) very nice tubby, about the same size as my current GTO TD04, the combined oilfeed and drain pipe is a bit oddball tho
ahh fair enough. I am more drifting toward td04 but i worry that if it boosts too much and i then need to sort different injectors out.
 
ahh fair enough. I am more drifting toward td04 but i worry that if it boosts too much and i then need to sort different injectors out.
a bigger turbo is more forgiving actually, a smaller one with high boost at low rpm can det just as badly
 
ahh fair enough. I am more drifting toward td04 but i worry that if it boosts too much and i then need to sort different injectors out.

several ways to limit boost.
- fit a softer wastegate actuator spring on the oversized turbo (may cause it to run inefficiently)
- fit a blow off valve that can be calibrated to intentionally leak boost above the value ur after
- fit a smaller turbo that has the actuator rated at the boost value ur after
- program an ecu daughterboard like Nistune to cut/limit the power when the MAF reads above a certain amount of airflow, thereby limiting exhaust pressure and boost.
 
several ways to limit boost.
- fit a softer wastegate actuator spring on the oversized turbo (may cause it to run inefficiently)
- fit a blow off valve that can be calibrated to intentionally leak boost above the value ur after
- fit a smaller turbo that has the actuator rated at the boost value ur after
- program an ecu daughterboard like Nistune to cut/limit the power when the MAF reads above a certain amount of airflow, thereby limiting exhaust pressure and boost.
Okay great I know what I am doing now them.

Will get a td04, starlet stainless steel td04 manifold cut the flange off of that and weld a micra cg13 flange onto the manifold. Will get a nice stainless system made for it as well.
I will make that RX7 intercooler fit, try to use the RX7 bov as well
 
If I was going to do it again. I would go for a bigger turbo and electric boost controller. Smaller turbo has to work harder for medium power, bigger turbo doesn't batter an eye lid at providing 150 odd. The electric boost controller means less boost leak, the solenoid will control boost far better than springs and stuff.
 
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