why didint i listen to

r-reg-sr

r-reg-sr

-------
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FRANK, as he explain'd to me to stick to wheel nuts,now i've gone and put a rear disc axle on. So after completing that then goin to fill up the brake fluid from a bottle marked brake fluid,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,only thing is the brake fluid in the bottle was white spirit.
now i've changed the servo and blown out the brake lines alls good except left rear is block'd ,no fluid bleeding out at all and wont blow out it is block'd,i was using a tyre inflator to clean out all line. it worked good but this left rear isnt having it (reverse blown from caliper/brake union)
GIVE me some suggestions!!!!!!!!! i am already thinking to reverse blow it with a compressor at a garage oh and my MOT IS DUE!!!!!!!!should of stuck to wheel nuts shhhhhhhhhhhelp :grinning:(foolassgrin)
 
lol Z :grinning: brake fluid is a very strong chemical, so white spirit wont harm your system, just keep flushing fluid through (Y)
 
you mean do the left rear daily in the hope it may clear? worth a go
left rear isnt bleeding with the union disconected pointing to blockage before caliper
you recon the bias valves gonna have to come off? right left is flowing freely
all that gunk in the bottom of reservoir must have been forced into pipe?? im guessing and thousands of guesses left yet but would rather solve this one time style like O G frank GGGGGGRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrr (false GRrrrrrrr)
tell me im going to have to strip the bias valve and the reverse blow the pipe their?
 
the bias valve should send equal pressure to both sides really Z, but the system is split diagonally surely ? (ie n/s/f is linked to o/s/r ect)
 
by the wayz i have adjusted the bias valve half way, and right rears bleeding good just this left one
 
frank said:
the bias valve should send equal pressure to both sides really Z, but the system is split diagonally surely ? (ie n/s/f is linked to o/s/r ect)
Click to expand...

yeh mate the way the connections are on the servo proov's that one
its just that rear left is the first to bleed when doing this and so got block'd i guess
 
R-REG-SR said:
by the wayz i have adjusted the bias valve half way, and right rears bleeding good just this left one
Click to expand...

probably just still got air in the bleeding left one then mate, if you have a problem on 1 corner you need to undo the unions/fittings further back/upstream to make sure its flowing ok, starting from the relevant fitting on the master cylinder, (do you have 4 on yours ?)
 
yeh theirs 4 unions on the servo on this one , undid them changed the servo and before doing em back up i blew through all them and reverse blew the left rear, all blew clear apart from the mentioned :grinning: (fake grin)
 
R-REG-SR said:
yeh theirs 4 unions on the servo on this one , undid them changed the servo and before doing em back up i blew through all them and reverse blew the left rear, all blew clear apart from the mentioned :grinning: (fake grin)
Click to expand...

i would just work my way down that 1 line then mate, slacken the union and make sure there,s pressure/flow, then slacken the next union down etc till you find where the problem is :)
 
jjust to mention my tyres get done up to 35-40 psi,,,,,,,now on the left rear brake pipe it went up to around 80psi then the rubber washerwiper pipe blew of the left rear union. this with pipes at servo disconnected
 
frank said:
i would just work my way down that 1 line then mate, slacken the union and make sure there,s pressure/flow, then slacken the next union down etc till you find where the problem is :)
Click to expand...

why me? now i bet i get this mixed up to. all i wanted to do was,,,,,,,,,,,what i was doing,aint my fault
how the eck/whats gonna get poked down this thin pipe??? i've dug myself deep in this time,,,,,,,,,,,,,need a bunker buster over this way here ,,,,,,
 
R-REG-SR said:
jjust to mention my tyres get done up to 35-40 psi,,,,,,,now on the left rear brake pipe it went up to around 80psi then the rubber washerwiper pipe blew of the left rear union. this with pipes at servo disconnected
Click to expand...

hmm fwn you can flip the seals with reverse pressure Z :eek: what possessed you lol, was it halloween night :grinning:
 
frank said:
hmm fwn you can flip the seals with reverse pressure Z :eek: what possessed you lol, was it halloween night :grinning:
Click to expand...

servo was disconnected from pipes when i done reverse hiphoperd it the seala in the servo you talking bout right
So erm i got halloween every day o the year? man somethings going on
 
R-REG-SR said:
servo was disconnected from pipes when i done reverse hiphoperd it the seala in the servo you talking bout right
So erm i got halloween every day o the year? man somethings going on
Click to expand...

yeh, mainly the master cylinder mate but there may be cupseals in the bias valve ?
if you,ve got pressure/flow going as far as the bias valve but none coming out, then maybe 1 gallery is blocked eh :eek:
 
hey z
lets work it out systematically. will prob need afew bottles of brake fluid. first brim the reservoir to full, remove the rear left nipple, pump the brake bout 10 strokes to fully push out any trapped air pocket. the pedal should feel really soft as the fluid is pumped through. if its firm, theres a blockage.

with the nipple removed does fluid come out.
yes- block nipple or nipple wasn't loosened enough for bleeding
no- blockage is further upstream

disconnect the hose from the caliper and check again
yes- obstruction inside caliper- take out piston and check inside
no- blockage is further upstream

unscrew rear left pipe union from hose and check again
yes- collapsed hose
no- blockage is further upstream

unscrew the rear left brake pipe union FROM the bias device and check again
yes- replace pipe
no- blockage is further upstream

unscrew the rear left brake pipe TO the bias device and check again
yes- blocked bias valve, service
no- blockage is further upstream

if you have abs, unscrew the rear left brake pipe from the abs module and check
yes- blocked pipe between abs module & bias valve
no- blockage is further upstream

unscrew the pipe leading from the master cylinder to the rear left caliper and check
yes- block pipe
no- faulty master cylinder

if ur proper stuck u know my number
 
line check tomoro and go check pollymobile blog on bias valve inner space info now
no cross threading today :grinning:
only thing i can think went wrong here is the brake pedal was pump'd and reservoir was empty with brake lines at rear drip'd dry ,,,,,,,,,,,,that axle swap time............its pointing at bias valve at the minute
 
always important to keep the reservoir at full after afew pumps cos if it was empty at any point then you'd certainly have an air gap in the middle even though fluid is coming out the far end
 
pollyp said:
hey z
lets work it out systematically. will prob need afew bottles of brake fluid. first brim the reservoir to full, remove the rear left nipple, pump the brake bout 10 strokes to fully push out any trapped air pocket. the pedal should feel really soft as the fluid is pumped through. if its firm, theres a blockage.

I ALREADY DONE A LITRE OF HATEFLAURDS 5.1 BRAKE FLUID,, need more then,,,, pedal feels light pushes down easy
all lines except lleft rear flowing good........

with the nipple removed does fluid come out.
yes- block nipple or nipple wasn't loosened enough for bleeding
no- blockage is further upstream

NO,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

disconnect the hose from the caliper and check again
yes- obstruction inside caliper- take out piston and check inside
no- blockage is further upstream

NO,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

unscrew rear left pipe union from hose and check again
yes- collapsed hose
no- blockage is further upstream

NO,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

unscrew the rear left brake pipe union FROM the bias device and check again
yes- replace pipe
no- blockage is further upstream

NO,,,,,,bias device check next on list

unscrew the rear left brake pipe TO the bias device and check again
yes- blocked bias valve, service
no- blockage is further upstream

HAVENT chek'd pipe going into next to do

if you have abs, unscrew the rear left brake pipe from the abs module and check
yes- blocked pipe between abs module & bias valve
no- blockage is further upstream
NO ABS

unscrew the pipe leading from the master cylinder to the rear left caliper and check
yes- block pipe
no- faulty master cylinder

YEH that pipe cannot be blow'n down from servo or from rear left union before flexi pipe may be some thing at bias valve or before?

if ur proper stuck u know my number
Click to expand...

THANKS,i may,,,,,,,
 
Hey Polly P Excellent write up.

Z if you follow this to the letter it WILL show you where your problem lies. Good luck mate. Malc

pollyp said:
hey z
lets work it out systematically. will prob need afew bottles of brake fluid. first brim the reservoir to full, remove the rear left nipple, pump the brake bout 10 strokes to fully push out any trapped air pocket. the pedal should feel really soft as the fluid is pumped through. if its firm, theres a blockage.

with the nipple removed does fluid come out.
yes- block nipple or nipple wasn't loosened enough for bleeding
no- blockage is further upstream

disconnect the hose from the caliper and check again
yes- obstruction inside caliper- take out piston and check inside
no- blockage is further upstream

unscrew rear left pipe union from hose and check again
yes- collapsed hose
no- blockage is further upstream

unscrew the rear left brake pipe union FROM the bias device and check again
yes- replace pipe
no- blockage is further upstream

unscrew the rear left brake pipe TO the bias device and check again
yes- blocked bias valve, service
no- blockage is further upstream

if you have abs, unscrew the rear left brake pipe from the abs module and check
yes- blocked pipe between abs module & bias valve
no- blockage is further upstream

unscrew the pipe leading from the master cylinder to the rear left caliper and check
yes- block pipe
no- faulty master cylinder

if ur proper stuck u know my number
Click to expand...
 
pollyp said:
always important to keep the reservoir at full after afew pumps cos if it was empty at any point then you'd certainly have an air gap in the middle even though fluid is coming out the far end
Click to expand...

to true, on the other individual circuits the fluid runs through very quik and topping up the fluid is priority 1

aye man that wash wiper hose and washer jet are good at the one way bleeding, its the nipple thread letting air in and about though
 
frank said:
i would just work my way down that 1 line then mate, slacken the union and make sure there,s pressure/flow, then slacken the next union down etc till you find where the problem is :)
Click to expand...

very nice frank , paul , mr MT ,thanks
if the finger goes "POP" tomoro i should solve this,,and not go scrapy..,,,,,,maybe
darnit you would fit these things to feel a good impact on the vehicle and when you get stuck,,,,,,,,like me now:grinning: and mot very soon
 
frank said:
yeh, mainly the master cylinder mate but there may be cupseals in the bias valve ?
if you,ve got pressure/flow going as far as the bias valve but none coming out, then maybe 1 gallery is blocked eh :eek:
Click to expand...

so pollyp i cant find the valve strip down in the blog, so this blokage is likely cup seal, are they in the valve?
 
R-REG-SR said:
so pollyp i cant find the valve strip down in the blog, so this blokage is likely cup seal, are they in the valve?
Click to expand...

page 2 post 94

wouldn't thought the bias valve would cause a blockage this serious to the fluid goin towards the caliper, unless you were using superglue in itfwn
if the external bias valve spring between the susp arm and the bias swing arm was set too tight, it just simply causes a tiny flow resistance going towards the caliper and might trap brake pressure in the caliper when flowing back.
 
nice i seen it ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
all depends on the test you mention'd .,,,,,,,,,,i'll be back,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,i'll be back [hope]

ok so you know this not listening has something to it seems,,the trauma goes in one ear and out the other,,,
,,but first the mystery,,,,,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkzBoQhqVrQ

and second,,one solid ass'd R-REG-SR under body shell'm

so some one solve this misteree cause all i understand was bias-valve was indeed the blok'd one,air lock?
the seals frank mention'd? go ahead here are the pics. clean reservoir fluid turn dark after? anyone had this

wet unions are the "in" from servo
DSC02672.jpg


rear left union. all i did was pump the valves in out with plyer and bled some more,,,,,,,,,,
DSC02681.jpg


rear left dry.pump'd the break some more more more much more and it started bleeding. brake fluid in reservoir was
clear but after the thing unblok'd it turn'd mury dark in their?? black rubber seal color?
DSC02684.jpg


one rubber boot off one valve
DSC02685.jpg


spring compres'd
DSC02686.jpg


looks like this now,,is it right?

DSC02688.jpg


DSC02689.jpg


brakes are very firm now,(48k slx servo swap'd in) as i also had to unscrew the pedal /servo adustment nut so the brake lights go on off
r-reg over by the hedge
 
mot runs out tomoro :grinning: and they check the breaks on that roller thing dug in dont they. better raise the front 1-2 cm
 
maybe some airs been in the system awhile n corroded some of the internals n blocked the passages?

it should only be clean fluid in the system. so it flows out no probs now? so it should be pumping the fluid 1-way out the exposed nipple. i'd keep topping up & bleed via the rear calipers till the reservoir clears.

so was the bias device internal valves sticky? they can be taking out by unscrewing the cap with a socket n clean the valve.

no need to ziptie the spring like that if ur keeping the shaft. u just need to make sure the car weight is fully resting on the spring (rear axle resting on axle stands), and tighten that nut on the spring shaft till the bias valve arm dips a mm so no load is pressing on the internal valve plunger
 
i was pulling them valves down with plyer ,,they were returning back up
got fluid out the rear left nipple, one man job so couldnt say what was going back up nipple
no thread on shaft to screw down further
 
ah ur susp was lowered alot yea? ok u ziptie it slightly between the bias swing arm and the lower spring mount where its bolted to the trailing arm till the swing arm dips slightly at rest
 
alright the valve swing arm is 1-2 mm off the valves ? at rest (not push'd up fully)
sorry forgot to mention lowerd
 
yea long as that arms not pushing on the internal valves. at rest meaning the jacks removed and chassis resting on springs with rear axle on stands for access
 
ok right now its too far down, fronts are locking up first though as they are now maybe to quick or disc's are dirty------------------visible pad contact on rear discs
 

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