What tools do I need to service a facelift K11?

Hi,
Following on from my thread on a proposed service:
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/37674-Service-help-please
I have a decent set inc. sockets but nothing special. I also have ramps for the front wheels.

I still have some questions on what I plan to do:

Engine oil change - What oil should I use? Last time I used 10w30 but that may be a guess! I already have an oil filter removal tool.

Brake fluid change - Do I need some sort of tool for this?

Engine coolant - Do I literally just mix some water and anti-freeze together and pour it in?

Engine Belts - I heard that I must take the wheel off to do this, but does this affect wheel balancing/allignment? Also do I need any tools in particular? I am assuming I do not need to worry about not moving anything when there are not position critical belts as this is not a cambelt change (as there isn't one!).

Sparks - Changed 12 months ago and done about 8,000 miles on them so might just leave them be

Gearbox oil - Do I use engine oil in this? I plan to pull out the plug and check the oil level.

Power steering fluid - Leave it be?

Fuel filter and Air filter - Air filter is easy peasy but does the fuel filter require any special tools?

The car is an X reg and has done 37,500 miles. Due to the mileage I do not think any belts have EVER been changed. The same goes for P/S, engine coolant, gearbox, brakes.

I am a bit of a novice with cars but I am very reluctant to pay £60 an hour for some muppet with no GCSE's do it!

I plan to get the parts from Nissan in Derby and the fluids from Halfords. Any better recommendations on parts? For things like filters and belts I only want Nissan parts.
Any help is much appreciated :)
 

frank

Club Member
i would,nt advise a novice to do a brakefluid change :eek:, just drain a bit of coolant and top it up with neat antifreeze, yours will have a level plug to topup the gearoil if needed, and the fuelfilter pipes usually bond themselves on after a few years (so some force may be needed, and beware any residual pressure)
 

pollyp

Club Member
Engine oil change - i use castrol gtx 10w40. just need 14mm socket for drain plug, filter removal tool and a tub/pan.
warm up engine, loosen drain plug and slowly unscrew by hand (preferably with gloves cos oils hot plus keeps hands clean) keeping hold of it until oil starts to drip out. position tub underneath then quickly remove the plug away. when it stops trickling, clean and reinstall the plug.
loosen the filter, position tub underneath (and urself to one side), as u unscrew it by hand the oil will drain onto the tub. remove filter. pour old oil into container.
pour abit of new oil into the new filter and swirl it around to prime it then smear some oil along the rubber seal. install new filter. top up with new oil abit at a time until the levels close to full. drive around. recheck level when cool.

Brake fluid change - i just use a self bleeding one-way valve tube and a 11m spanner for the bleed nipple and follow the haynes manual. if its ur first time i'd recommend having an experienced mechanic to help ya out and double check the work

Engine coolant - set heater dial to HOT. when cooled down, open radiator cap. position tub under radiator, disconnect the lower coolant pipe from radiator and drain all coolant. (you could also empty out the overflow tank if ya like) refit coolant pipe. drain old coolant into container (i use measuring jug so that i could pour the same amount back in without wastage)
mix 50/50 in a bucket and funnel it into the radiator whilst squeezin n pumpin the upper coolant pipe to aggitate and make the air bubble to the surface. start engine and repeat the squeezing & filling to the brim til no bubbles appear. stop engine. fill the overflow tank to MAX.
now the radiator and overflow tank is full there's still air in the thin overflow pipe. refit the radiator cap and fully squeeze the upper coolant pipe so that the remaining air is pushed from the pipe over to the overflow tank where it just bubbles out. when released, the upper pipe sucks fresh coolant back into the overflow pipe

Engine Belts - just requires a socket set & spanner. remove wheel & splash guard, loosen alternater then remove alternator belt. loosen waterpump/PAS belt tensioner and remove belt. replace water pump belt then alternator belt and tension them back up to spec. refit splashguard & wheel. doesn't affect wheel balance.

Power steering fluid - if its dark or black- replace

Fuel filter - depressurise fuel system and simply disconnect the filter with a philips. as frank says the pipes tend to stick to the unit, i twist the pipe abit to loosen the bond. have plenty of rags for fuel spills.

i goto partco for most service bits
 
Thanks for the help guys.

Now what I need is:
Air filter
Fuel filter
Oil filter + ring
PAS/Waterpump belt
Alternator Belt

Now, last time all I did was get as fuiel filter from Nissan. I have been recommended going to 'A to Z' in Fenton (Stoke) but I have looked at them on ebay and the parts seem very cheap.
With the huge amount of time I have spent at work on hydraulic contamination, I am weary of a 'cheap' oil filter.

So, do I go to Halfords or AtoZ or to Nissan for all my parts?
 
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