Rear wheel cylinder

October 2012 I had my MOT (passed) with a few comments on brakes:

Park brake Efficiency etc

So I paid to have the rear shoes changed (60,000 miles on them) and the hand break adjusted, safety first ;)

This morning I notice a patch of fluid under the passengers side, rear drum and the side wall was coated. Just like in this video.

The dash board hand brake light is on even with the brake off due to low fluid levels? (not topped it up at present). So after work I took the wheel off and popped open drum. One of seal on the slave cylinder (correct term?) is leaking, when the brake pedal is pressed. The inside of the drum and other parts (with in the housing) are covered in brake fluid due to the leak.

Looks like the slave cylinder will have to replaced. Its looks easy, just 3 bolts but with all the fluid will I need to replace the shoes and or other parts or will a good clean (brake cleaner) do?

If I replace the slave cylinder (ebay link) , should I bleed the system as well with a kit (ebay link) In May 2012 I needed new CV joints and at the same time paid to have the brake fluid changed as well.

I have replaced front pads before but never done shoes or drums my self. But I would like to learn more and save some money as well. What best way is to do the slave cylinder, bleed and clean?

Thanks in advanced for any help and advise.



Club Member
if you clamp the nearest hose you wont need to bleed the other wheels rogue, and if you remove the big nut and hub, the shoes are a lot easier to re-fit.
you may also need a proper brakepipe spanner if the pipe is rusted into the cyl
Well just replaced 1 cylinder today.

Safety first (jack and axle stand)

Humm not good (nail any 1?)

Drum after a little hammering!

Brake line a rusted into the cylinder :( (even after a good covering of WD40)

Old cylinder (caked the inside of the drum) so used holts brake Cleaner. I also used a face mask and eye protection at this stage.

New cylinder installed.

Brake line refitted

No need to remove shoes or hub, just use the hand brake and cylinder has no contact with the shoes.

What I learned from this, use a brakepipe spanner (thanks frank ;) ) as the normal spanner spins and wears down the bolt, when rusty. If it don't work remove the brake line and cylinder as 1 and this may help.

I had to clamp the flexible hose (no air in back in to the system) and undo the brake line bolt (not the bolt connected directly to the cylinder). Once I released the bolts that connect the cylinder to the back plate. The brake line and cylinder came out as 1. Then I used mole grips and hammer loosen the brake line bolt connected directly to the cylinder. Much easier when not connected to the back plate and the extra space to move.

Connected the old brake line to the new cylinder popped it back in and done up all the bolts. Then used a 1 man bleed kit to remove any air and topped up with some DOT4 and checked for leaks.

Total time 3+ hours due 1 rusty bolt :mad:
Time with out a rust bolt 1+ hour max :D

Taking off the brake line and cylinder as 1 then twisting I got from EricTheCarGuy

Hope this help some one!
no need, if you leave the fluid soaked shoes on eh rogue :)

Would you recommend I change them?

I gave them a good clean with brake cleaner, not sure how contamination they are. But I would say over night, then I its stopped leaking, after Hand brake was applied. I only had them changed 4+ months ago but safety first.

As for the removal of the cylinder it didn't get in the way of shoes when I removed it.